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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Jul 8, 2005 - 01:46am PT
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Remember when we had that place all to ourselves...
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10b4me
Trad climber
On that V2 problem at the Happies
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cool shot
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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first time I climbed in JTree was in 1970 or so...
I don't remember the route I was on this one morning. We were up a pitch on a two pitch something... it had this huge hollow flake.. above a big camper bus. We were going about our business pounding in some piton and the door of the camper explodes open wacking the side of the bus and this guy jumps out screaming "what the hell are you kids doing up there, you're scaring the crap out of me!!!"
Don't remember if we toped out or not... don't remember much about that trip...
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Complete with Bago rides for the adventurous, bonfires for everyone's nighttime entertainment and so much slander you had best wear your teflon britches to keep for having any stick to you...not that that was likely to happen.
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Tony Puppo
climber
Bishop
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I spent many weekends there in the early 70's. Great times!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
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That looks like me and Cilley on headstone.... me leading of course.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Started climbing in tree, year of our lord 1980.
Used to get to tree at say 10pm on a Friday nite and always got my site in Ryan, if not Hidden Valley.
First time I encountered the entrance station, I gunned the engine and just drove on through past the ranger.
Then they raped the desert and turned it into a parking lot.
Juan
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Matt
Trad climber
places you shouldn't talk about in polite company
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is that the headstone or is it EBGBs from the side?
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2005 - 01:56pm PT
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Thanx for all the great comments folks!! Yeah that's Headstone. If that was you and Cilley Mussy...It must have been a morning stroll before a day of Horrendous Off-Width Wrastlin'! Yeah I started climbing in Josh in 1970 myself, with my scout troop from San Diego.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Remember when we "Nee'ed" the ranger when he was harassing the updander kids with the kegger in the tent. I guess that is what really started the downward slide in climber/ranger relations though.
I used to get there at noon on Friday and there would be maybe 3 other cars in Hidden Valley campground. I miss the old days!
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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I once saw a guy second cyrptic in record time. Thing is he was missing a hand, and war able to climb it with only his stump.
To this day I do not know how he did it.
Headstone rock was the climb I used to take all my pretty girlfriends up.
Imagine what happened on top.
Juan
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 8, 2005 - 02:13pm PT
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I remember in a night-time tour de force, about ten of us soloed to the top of Intersection, I went via Waterchute, and we towed a picnic table to the top! Rangers loved that one!! We would solo up there daily for morning bongloads, until the rangers removed it...Cast included Yabo, Banny Root, Rudy McNuggett, among many others!
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Bishop is DEAD, long live JT
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Juan writes: Imagine what happened on top
ED????
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10b4me
Trad climber
On that V2 problem at the Happies
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started climbing there in'79.
yeah, I remember the days when getting a weekend campsite at HV or Ryan was not a problem.
as much as like Yosemite, there is something spiritual about Josh.
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Jaybro
Social climber
The West
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Mike, ya mean like 'spro with you and Cilley at the Central Srutinizer?
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ikellen
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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I cant say that I climbed back in the day at Josh, the article in the climbing magazine photo issue with all of the old B&W photos of yabo, bachar, yaniro and others made me feel like I right there, looking up at yabo on Leave it to Beaver. I also liked the photo of yaniro(?) on spider line, hanging off the hand jam while chalking.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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The folks who really had it made were the "Desert Rats," John Wolfe and and those who came before we ever showed up in the early 70s. But we were living large there till about 1978, when restrictions started makeing things difficult.
JL
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Ah good times...You could actually find a campsite in Hidden Valley on Fri. evenings, running it out in EBs with a dicey buttonhead spinnner twenty feet below and thinking nothing of it, Bago rides of course (far more common than previously suggested--some folks even caught rides from Hidden Valley all the way out to Hall of Horrors and Saddle Rocks), nothing out there but us few climbers and some bored marines and rv'ing retirees. Sounds pretty good in comparison to the crowds, supertopos, lines, posers (well, more of them anyways), pad people, lines at Gunsmoke and all the new pavement laid to enhance our enjoyment of the natural environment. Having said all that, it's still pretty good; sometimes though it seems like you just have to work a little harder at it.
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arete
Trad climber
Estes Park, Colorado
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Did my first climb -- Bat Crack in early '72 when I lived in Hollywierd. Went to Kelty's Glendale store on monday and bought a rack of old style Chouinard perlon slung hexes, a goldline and a pair of kletter soled Kronhoffer shoes. Went back the next saturday and led Beginners One and Two on the Blob.
lucky to be alive.
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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God, once I flashed high cost of living on Saddle. God I wish I could have that climbing skill back. I wish. I wish.
Then thanks to Largo's butterfly left ski track free solo story, I had to start going on free solo days.
Largo you almost got me killed!
Juan
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Dick Cilley trying to sell you chalk or whatever he happened to be pushing that day....
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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I made my first trip to Josh in 1980, whem I moved to California. But by then all the real old skool guys were telling me the place was done for...
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arete
Trad climber
Estes Park, Colorado
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Didn't know about it. I was a rank begginer then. I probably would have thought "who the hell is Don Lauria? What idiot would want to be known as Dolt and why in the world would I buy anything from him?"
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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If was always buying tshirts from silly dick.
Juan
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pud
climber
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Jtree circa 1969,
Dad would take me and my little brother to split rock, set up a lawn chair, crack a sixer, find a country station on the portable and tell us to make it back before dark 'cause he didn't want to go out looking for us.
on one of these hikes Willy and i turned over a rock on some trail somewhere, and found a very old and very thrashed handgun practically falling apart from rust. we showed it to dad and he says, "that's nice son, don't point it at your brother".
we motored out of Jtree that late afternoon sitting on the tailgate of the town and counrty trying to pick off lizards with my trusty daisy BB gun while dad was weaving his way across the valley floor. we passed a ranger and he turns around and pulls us over, he collects my daisy and gives me and willy and dad a long talk about guns and critters and laws. he's ready to send us on our way and i'm ballin' cause he's keeping my gun, when dad tells him about me and willy finding the handgun and maybe his son could get his gun back for the find. the ranger agrees and tells me personally that i should never bring any kind of gun to Jtree again, but that it was a good thing that we had found the handgun. he sent us on our way with my daisy and a very cool story. i was 9 years old.
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TGT
Social climber
So Cal
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Old memories
Jumping on Damper with two bongs, (and after a couple of hits) because Woulfe said it was "5.5 and an exellent short beginners route"
Crawling across the campground loop in an altered state feeling for my sleeping bag on a moonless night.
Hiding my motorcycle and bivying in a cave on The Wall. Hiding the glow of the stove while the rangers hunted for the owner of the bike.
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WBraun
climber
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Hi Watusi
Awesome art that you have developed. It’s been along time Mike. If you ever float by the Valley again look me up.
Werner
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Started climbing there in 72 with the Wolfe guide. It made gettin to climbs fairly simple since their were not that many and they were in HVCG or near the road. The good ole easy days
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2005 - 12:15am PT
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Wow! This post really brought out some great responses!! Jaybro (Bro) it has been so long...eons (and I am talking geological time)Yeah Central Scrutinizer was a definite fav! Short and hard like at Woodson! Give me an e-mail, wait I'll e-mail you! Can't let my past slip away from me! Werner!! So glad to hear that you even remember me! You were and will always be my most exalted and illumined master, along with our friends Yanno, Ron, Largo, Bird, and Yabaho (one man tribe) just to name an infinitesimally small percentage of my ultimate heroes!!
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looking sketchy there...
Social climber
Latitute 33
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God, I remember like yesterday my first forays out to Josh. The ultra bright blue sky of early October, the autumn heat somehow making the desert seem so clean and like some forgotten land we had discovered. As we grew up, our experiences changed; Josh changed us and changed with us.
From my first lead (The Bong) to Bongloads, experiencing my first nereltne, discovering the depths of the Wonderland of Rocks and the day DE and I went in on a 100 hits of Purple Dragon and nearly everyone in HVCG was frying. Climbing Josh with girlfirends, wives, and kids.... It is my spiritual home.
Thanks for the post Mike.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2005 - 12:51am PT
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Randy, I'm so glad that some of the Real McCoy have chimed in here! Without all of you it would never have been so special!
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2005 - 03:00am PT
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Locker, I noticed you are from here. Have I met you ,if not yet when?
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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When I first showed up in Josh in 1980, The second person I met was the Fish who invited me to go take a look at the brain matter and blood that Crahsner may have left after his big solo whip on Spiderline.
(the first guy I met was Mike Freriks who asked me "do you like soloing?" then we went and soled Mike's Books--first climb for me in Josh).
My intro to Southern California climbers.
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T2
climber
Cardiff by the sea
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I came into the scene in the mid 80's, after alot of you. But I do remember a funny time when Alf was on his fire rampage and poured white gas down the Pinched Rib calling it "BBQ Rib" Not long after he had poured some in a line about 20 feet long, Watusi and I were hangin together in camp when Alf was yelling for our attention. Once he got it and we both look to see what's up as he throws a match down and ignites the gas. He is now standing there laughing. With a smoking match in hand, and a 20' long 5' high flame going strong, the ranger came around the corner doing his evening stroll through camp. Mike and I go about our business pretending not to know him. The next day Alf is doing trash clean up around camp like a road side convict. Remember that Mike.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2005 - 12:10pm PT
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Sure do Tommy!! I remember it left some char residue on the route and everyone made Alf rap down and scrub it!
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2005 - 11:28am PT
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Hey Klaus I'll try to enlighten you...try clicking that funny blue link Watusi, wow, my real name pops up! Let's try you...Ah, Eric Kohl, well fancy that.
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Jul 10, 2005 - 12:18pm PT
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Remember also the Watusi doing Streetcar Named Desire a dozen different ways, astounding us all.
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jul 10, 2005 - 06:36pm PT
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I remember big group solos, at night, under the influence of stalwart ragweed. Amazing that the notion of danger never came up that I can remember. Also, no one wore climbing shoes for those night fandangos--you just had a chalk bag. The point of the solo, if there ever was one, was basically to change locations for the next pipeload. Sometimes there was a pack, a quart bottle of water and a bong involved. After a night of soloing/smoking, that bong water was as toxic as plutonium, and if you got so much as a drop of it on your duds you had to chuck them straightaway. Nasty stuff, that bongwater . . .
JL
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Ouch!
climber
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Jul 10, 2005 - 06:38pm PT
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Juan's JT Epic
He climbed all day
and throughout the night
and just before the morning light
he stood atop that gnarly height
six feet above the level ground
how in hell will he ever get down
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 10, 2005 - 11:52pm PT
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Ouch, That was cool, But the man is irreproachable!!! (edit) I thought you meant Juan Largo. Even as a punk, if there was ever a Largo sighting...We wankers would line up with any kind of offerings we had...just to get "The Word!" He was and will always be "Larger than Life!!" It was a special time then to actually know your gods!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
one pass away from the big ditch
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Jul 11, 2005 - 12:41am PT
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I can remember the first time I saw someone place a bolt on lead with a bosch (pre-ban). It was on the route "Good Bye Mr. Bond"... yard up on the arm lean out and drill. Super human those guys! One of them lead me up Sweatband while we were waiting. good times.
Anyone know Linda Nelson? Apparently "Linda's Face" on the short wall was attributed to her and their early group of climbers.
Goldline, swami belts with 1" tubular, hip belays and moving up to high technology "Figure 8" rappel device to belay with.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2005 - 12:52am PT
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Yes the Bosch was a boon!!! However there was a few decades out there when we hand drilled everything (a tap a tap a tap a)whilst on stance! Nonetheless we must revel in the marvels of modern science!
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2005 - 01:47am PT
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Super vid footage Mr. Middendorf!! And as you know that snow was quite rare, especially as deep as it was! Always so great to hear from you Deucey!! A5 forever!!
My next door neighbor, the illustrious Don Reid in action on the nordic skis!
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2005 - 02:03am PT
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Cheers again for all the posts! My best regards from out here at the edge...
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Jul 11, 2005 - 12:20pm PT
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Watusi, I think I remember you.....
Isn't there a picture somewhere of you on a
boulder prob (maybe "Stem Gem?")and your
playing a bass guitar?
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Jul 11, 2005 - 12:36pm PT
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Just look for the guy missing a bit of a finger and that will be Watusi. Don't go around corners too fast or you could have the same problem.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2005 - 01:07pm PT
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Shack, you might be thinking of the Hatchett movie "Hard Rock" (Masters of Stone 2) Where I do some bouldering and play my bass on Stem Gem. Shortimer, is that all you remember of me? I was known for far more than that...
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Jul 11, 2005 - 01:12pm PT
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Mungeclimber,
I used to work with Linda Nelson at REI in Carson.
Your story is true? How do you know her?
Maybe she still works at REI?
Juan
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 11, 2005 - 01:44pm PT
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Well Mikey..since you asked:)
can you say having a vicious Limp Huey??
or maybe doin the Yoda at the Ranch?
or being responsible for the most wicked bad topos ever drawn?
or maybe it was the man with dead digits?
just to name a few...
It was the best of times, it was the weirdist of times...
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Shack
Trad climber
So. Cal.
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Jul 11, 2005 - 02:44pm PT
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Ok, that's right, Watusi...
but I first remeber you from JT in the mid 80's,
then seeing you in the video and thinking..
"I remember that guy".
You were a fixture out there for a while,
like Dick Cilley.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Jul 11, 2005 - 03:02pm PT
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Hell no, that's not all I remember. I also remember those wicked problems on the back of the Peyote Cracks among lots of other hard climbing. But many other people climbed hard, not many rolled their trucks on the road into the park.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2005 - 04:28pm PT
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Actually more than you think! Ever hear of "Bullwinkle's Traverse"? (Bet you can imagine what happed there!) Did you know Too Strong Dave? Rolled his as well...to name but a few.
Yeah I was known to be able to run laps on "The Baby Apes" and those back there, even after losing my pinky!!
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Jul 11, 2005 - 04:35pm PT
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Yeah, I go back farther than you Mike. I do remember Dean rolling his now that you mention it, but I didn't know that Too Strong rolled his too. But then it is pretty hard to keep up on all of Dave's exploits.
Are you still climbing much or just doing your art?
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Jul 11, 2005 - 09:10pm PT
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Funny to see that some of the new climbers don't know the legends of Michael J. Paul. Not just a local in Josh, one of the true keepers of the place. Back in the old days anyway...
Thanks Mike for the flashbacks!
(though no longer an advocate for the global A5 ball-cap and novelty apparel brand anymore--would be if there were some royalties, which there's not)
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jul 11, 2005 - 09:23pm PT
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I remember when Dave Mayville first started showing up at Tahquitz, Suicide and Josh. We used to kid him that if he would ever learn to use his feet would be a good climber. Then of course, he did. He was always one of my favorite people to be around climbing. He even talked me into leading the first pitch of Race With the Devil one time. He stood there in the talus belaying and I just knew he would run down the hill head over heels to catch me... (luckily that theory went untested.)
Dave took one of the longer falls I have ever seen, climbing onsight on The Cameleon, Josh, on the Sentinel. 12a. 6 or 7 bolts lead to what looks from the ground like a wide flare (actually it protects with tcu's in deep.) Anyway Dave took the wrong size gear and ended up running out the whole upper part then coming off. I'm on the top of the 1st pitch of Desert Song and I hear Dave over there say "No!... No..!" then he's in the air, huge swails of rope just hanging there in space below him. His wife at the time, Jody, caught him just off the deck. 1/2 hour later he sent it.
More recently I saw Dave guiding in HVCC. His client was a strong woman. All day they ran around doing the 5.10 classics. He would lead, bring her up then solo down. At the end of the day I went over to say hi. During the conversation I asked him how his back was doing. His client - who thought he was superman - says "what about your back?" He pulls up his shirt to reveal the scars, front nd back as well as the battery implant, from several reconstructive spinal surgeries. Her jaw hit the dirt...
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jul 11, 2005 - 09:24pm PT
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I just want to add that when I first came to Josh, Mike Paul was The Man...
How's it going Mike?
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JuanDeFuca
Big Wall climber
Chatsworth
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Jul 11, 2005 - 09:26pm PT
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Watusi,
Post that picture of you lunging for the top hold of that boulder problem. That was such a cool photo.
Juan
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10b4me
Trad climber
On that V2 problem at the Happies
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Jul 11, 2005 - 10:38pm PT
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Hey Mike,
are the Cactus Pricks still around?
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2005 - 10:54pm PT
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Wow! Nice rush of comments! First, great to hear from you John!! From reading some other posts I raced back to edit my earlier post, but couldn't...D5 forever!!!! Next, howdy Kris!!! You definitely established your name here for sure!! Juan...can't really use that shot, it is property of my old friend Epps. and I don't have the original anyway, but cheers nonetheless for remembering! Cactus Pricks are on summer hiatus! I'd imagine all those years living out here might have changed me a bit...
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jt
Trad climber
joshua tree, ca
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Jul 12, 2005 - 09:34am PT
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Dang, a lot of old timers here. I was climbing there in the mid 80's when i was approached by Dick Cilley, who asked me if i wanted to be in a Patagonia catalog. Dick was wearing a blazer, and my partner and i were wearing our typical ghetto climbing attire. I believe that i was wearing a pair of Chouinard Rock Bottoms. Anyone remember those? The photgrapher was Rick Ridgeway. I didn't know who he was, but my partner told me that he was some mountaineering dude. I climbed a couple of routes with Rick. I remember Rick walking up the crack on Mama Woolsey. He was actually walking up the crack line. Standing on top of it. I believe that most people put fingers in the crack, so this was pretty cool. I then led Double Cross with Rick, and he said "nice lead". I was a nobody, but i felt like a somebody that day. After that season I migrated to The Valley for the summer. One of the locals told me if i really wanted to be a "Valley Dude" it didn't really matter how hard or bold i climbed. The true measure was whether i could score a bivi with a betty in The Terrace. I took a shot at it, but was getting no where. I met a lady who appeared to have an interest in me, but every time that i got ready to close the deal.....DENIED! I was kinda bummed after my last attempt at some afternoon delight and strolled down to the Mountain Shop. The minute i walked in, some dude said, "Hey, you're in the Patagonia catalog". He showed me the catalog, and yep it was me and my partner and Silly Dick at JT. I borrowed the catalog and ran back up to The Terrace and showed the picture to my prospect. I immediately sent that route!Thank you Rick Ridgeway and Dick Cilley.
Zip
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HandCrack
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal.
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Jul 12, 2005 - 03:47pm PT
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One of my early memories of JT is seeing Mike and his posse gathering in the morning in HVCG parking lot to go for a run. Mike led the way in a pair of silver tights, the likes of which I hope to never see again.
And who can forget the Kinnaloa T-shirt with a large image of Mike's twisted mug and the caption "Lose your hair and your mind will follow."
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 12, 2005 - 04:21pm PT
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Wow, is that you Brandt? Yeah those awful silver tights!!! Argh! Who did I think I was? The "Silver Surfer?" Problem is that I was photographed soloing "Jaws" at Woodson in the first Five-Tennies, (Silver, Black X) for the first "5.10 advert." so I'll never actually be able to escape from them...and oh yes the "T-Shirt"...only person I know who got credit for going bald!
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Ksolem
Trad climber
LA, Ca
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Jul 12, 2005 - 06:12pm PT
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Hi Brandt! I don't know if any of you guys wuld remember Brent Ingrham. He used to live in "Desperate Hot Springs" (as he would call it) and climbed in Josh a lot. He was bald, and had a T shirt which said on the front "I am not bald" and on the back "It's the collector for a solar powered sex machine."
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
Ca
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Jul 12, 2005 - 07:01pm PT
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I knew Mike. He was at Kamps' memorial service and looked good. Doing lots of flyfishing in S. America with Yvon now days.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2005 - 12:28am PT
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I actually remember Mike myself, saw some of the wild animation work he's been doing as well.
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Shano
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 13, 2005 - 10:59am PT
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hey is this the same Mike Paul that put up all them thar sandbags back in the Werner days at Mission Gorge down south?!?!
They haven't gotten any easier (nor have the bolts ever been replaced judging by appearances (gulp.))
Fun stuff!
If you can climb the MG slime you can stick to anything :')
-s
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2005 - 11:15am PT
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Aye that be me!!! But when we did those things in the early to mid 70's there weren't 5.12's established yet so we didn't know what to call some of them. As far as the bolts are concerned we mostly top-roped to avoid rap bolting, someone came along later and bolted them all up on rappell. I myself really didn't care but others were infinitely butt-hurt by this! I just went back and led them using the new bolts (new back then at least!)
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Shano
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 13, 2005 - 11:39am PT
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Man theres some weird history at that place. Its grid bolted yet now theres an absolute bolting ban so those old home-mades and Leepers can't even be replaced and people are leading (and falling) on them! Props to you for the no rap-bolt ethic, but the bolts do make for some heady (albeit brief) leads. All my q-draws are Screamers for some of those routes.
Did you put up KhazaadDum? Glamdring? Aqualunge? They didn't look like ground-up jobs unless you had some real sticky hooks.
BTW theres a a shot or two of you (OOOLDDDDD skool) on the RC.com site in the MG area. Glad to hear you're still active. I see Werner around occasionally; climbed w/ him at Woodson a while back. He's still one BURLY mofo. He could kill people with those big paws of his. He's hot and heavy on Canon Tajo when its not sizzling down there.
Take it easy there Watusi. Share some MG stories if ya got any!
-Trapped in SD
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2005 - 12:30pm PT
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Yeah I was in on Aqualunge in '75 or '76, but those others... we had done most of the stuff at Middle Earth by then as well, but whoever wrote the guide kind of added the names to them. I don't recognize those names myself. Man a couple of those shots of me from RC.Com are from '75 or'76, and are really crusty!!
I mean check the funky tennies I've got on while soloing "I hear my train a'comin'"
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Shano
Trad climber
CA
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Jul 13, 2005 - 01:33pm PT
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hey, somebody tell that guy his rope fell off!
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PMS
Social climber
Woodland Park, CO
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Jul 13, 2005 - 01:55pm PT
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Watusi wrote "I'd imagine all those years living out here might have changed me a bit..."
You look the same as you did 20 some odd years ago !!!!!!
Father time has indeed been good to you.
Paul M.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2005 - 02:44pm PT
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Cheers!! Great to hear from you Paul!!
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DE
Mountain climber
Tustin, Calif.
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Jul 13, 2005 - 04:05pm PT
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Fun thread Mike.
My first Josh route was Mike's Books in '71 with my cousin Ken. We had my dad's old goldline and about 10 Clog hexes on funk white cord.
Two years later (?) we met the Stonemasters doing a mass ascent of the Dogleg. We were impressed and watched for awhile before Richard H. asked me if I wanted to climb. I was stoked and nervous but did it. I couldn't believe I had gotten to climb with those guys.
About a year after that we were over roping up for the FA of Negasaurus and right as I was to leave the ground the entire Stonemaster posse came around the corner on a bouldering tour. They settled in to watch and even though they were my friends I couldn't handle the pressure of having the "Hotties" watch. After all what if I did something stupid in front of my heros? I had to ask Largo if they would leave! He/ they were totally cool, they understood and left without ever slandering me. That was before Mo and the time when slander ruled supreme.
The memories are flooding back but , damn, I've got to get more work done!
Just like you Randy, Josh is my spiritual home.
Hey Watusi, is that Curtis in the left hand photo?
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Jul 13, 2005 - 04:12pm PT
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Hey Mike, remember this Eastside outing with Shawn and the girls?
Not that we had any fun or anything eh:)
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Hardman Knott
Gym climber
Mill Valley
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Jul 13, 2005 - 04:22pm PT
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Hey that's Shepard's Tub, isn't it?
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2005 - 11:15pm PT
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Hi Dave! No, those two are old pics. of me, but a lot of people said we could have been twin sons from different mothers! (When I had hair!) So glad to keep seeing my compatriots posting!
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 13, 2005 - 11:20pm PT
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Nice Pat! Shawn with his fish-eye again!
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lad
Trad climber
near Fresno, CA
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Jul 14, 2005 - 05:16pm PT
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hey Mike.... I especially remember you from a Sante' boulders climb off - LOL, when you were going around dressed up in jester.. Remember that event - was probably early 80's around Halloween?
That pic of you on "hear my train a comin" - my jaw dropped at first cause the garb you were wearing looks like one of my old climbing get ups - right down to the color of the chalk bag and them ole pair of "scats"? Or were the original 5.10's? BTW, great hiball bouldering problem!
You probably don't know me but by face and ability - hehe... If I can, I'll dig up some ole pics from back in 70's/80's and post up some vintage JT, Woodson stuff...
cheers..
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 14, 2005 - 05:37pm PT
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Whoa Jeff! Dating yourself with that one!! That was a trip hanging with the Rolling Stone Crew! And Lad I've got to try to find one of the pics. from that contest, it was a Hoot!! I rember a dude that was dressed up as a giant friend!! Oh and those are just old Tiger tennies,before scats and a ways before 5-tennies.
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F10 Climber F11 Drinker
Trad climber
e350
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Jul 14, 2005 - 11:54pm PT
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Hey Mike, saw you in those tennies on "train" and the first thing I thought was they were "scats". First time I used them at JT it was amazing stuck like glue and kicked ass. They were super cheap and saved wear and tear on the rock shoes, Seemed like it was the "EB's" era. Those canvas uppers took a beating at Josh in those cracks. JB
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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been a while since Shawn took this shot of you MP.
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 8, 2005 - 11:30pm PT
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Wow! "Can't Say" that shot is definitely ancient...'81 I'd say, hadn't got the Fire's yet!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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no matter how far i wander, jtree will always be home. josh was the first place i cragged outside of san diego. the only available guide was the desert rats' guide -- the first wolf/dominique guide was still a few years off. we'd been climbing at mission gorge and woodson, in a vacuum, and were much stronger than we realized, so we did some pretty hard routes right off that bat. but the thing about josh was being so young -- 15 on my first visit -- and the desert, and the campfires, and living in close proximity to the other climbers we looked so much up to...i can remember it all so well, like it was yesterday. and as the years passed, season after season, meeting so many amazing people, many of whom have posted to this thread.
it's said that you can't go home again, but when the wind blows just so, sweeping a gust of chalk dust around a shaded corner and out into the light, i swear it's 1976 again and i'm right back there, young, my whole life stretching before me like an unbroken promise, and god i feel renewed.
i was asking a freind why one year in josh in the '70's felt like 10 years today, and he said hey, we were virgin, cutting fresh grooves into clean wax. it all made so much sense back then.
josh...if you were there, in the early to late 70's, throw a prayer of thanks up to whatever god you choose. there was never a time like it before, and i don't think there will ever be a time like it again.
and then there was the valley.....
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2005 - 12:41pm PT
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Nice Bob!! Well said!
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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yea Bob!!
You're the man. Write some more about the old days, please!
(our respective old days were different but parallel, only to merge in our annual good ole days in Josh!!!)
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 10, 2005 - 02:37am PT
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Got to have the ultimate "Ol' Duffer's Gathering" someday! It would be huge!
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Aug 10, 2005 - 06:11pm PT
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I got a group site in Indian Cove for Thanksgiving--come on over!
Planning to hang in Hidden Valley as well. We'll go fire the Streetcar in tennies! After some quick Peyote solos naturally. Maybe Pope's crack too. Then we can go over and toprope the Mo a few dozen times, and watch Walt solo that scary 5.9 on the left...
Oh, wait, that was the few years back program...
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 10, 2005 - 08:31pm PT
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yeah john, but if it don't snow down in indian cove this year how will we go on the 1am alpine bouldering tour???
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deuce4
Big Wall climber
the Southwest
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Aug 10, 2005 - 10:18pm PT
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with Bob's good single malt you can do anything!
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Watusi
Social climber
Joshua Tree, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 11, 2005 - 01:40am PT
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That is priceless!! Awesome! It would be great to be a part of that this year! I know Walter will be with us!
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Aug 11, 2005 - 03:12am PT
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teh mortimer abides.
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Fluoride
Trad climber
on a rock or mountain out west
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Hey pat, is that old pic taken at Hilltop Hot Springs??? Looks almost the same today. One of my favorite places on all the Earth. Nothing like climbing hard all day then hitting the springs for a sunset soak.
Wow...judging by the facial hair I'll guess 1978?
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WoodyS
Trad climber
Riverside
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You guys are all just kids; I started climbing in JT in 65. Campers would set up their lawn chairs and applaud us if we did something that appeared impressive to them. There was only one ranger who lived with his family in the house at the end of Lost Horse Road. He'd come out in his pickup and visit with us; it was a lonely job in those days.
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WoodyS
Trad climber
Riverside
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You guys are all just kids; I started climbing in JT in 65. Campers would set up their lawn chairs and applaud us if we did something that appeared impressive to them. There was only one ranger who lived with his family in the house at the end of Lost Horse Road. He'd come out in his pickup and visit with us; it was a lonely job in those days.
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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i'll take this one, mike.
10-4.
best part: he was dressed as a skeleton.
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Sewellymon, thanks for the bump! watusi, i dont know who you are, ive been gone along time, but if you live next to donny we must have met. tell him punk roy wants to get in touch with him. in those days i was just a follower. but i remember the picknic table. me and yabo would hickhike out there or maybe get a ride from bachar in his vw bus. i was told we could smoke some but i had to solo to the top. i made it but but was shakin'. got totaly smoked out. and then they told me we had to down climb. yabo talked me down. i would never remember this stuff but you all keep coming up them. thanks for supertopo.
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loads
Trad climber
Phoenix AZ.
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First time in JTREE was summer of 73'...My only climbing had been at Williamson Rock and the San Gabriel Mt. Water falls..Eaton Canyon, etc.
My first route was Mike's Books....Watusi, the first time I met you was in 74'or about ...you had just finised the "Middle Band" on Old Woman Rock...Rack full of nuts and pins...Just a child....
Sewellymon....How many years, weeks and weekends together out there...How many times have we done the now non existant bolt ladder at night on Headstone...in yes, a somewhat altered
state of mind....And the night time solos are countless..
Wish you were around Sewellymon cause I'll be there this weekend.
Larry
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Hey 'Tusi, the story above sounds kinda like you, could it be...
Halloween, skeleton, crash in Josh, little finger???
Peace bro! and happy new year
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Loom
climber
167 stinking feet above sea level : (
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bump
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2007 - 06:52pm PT
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Yeah Wonder you should know me! We did the Arrow direct together with Swiss Michi? Michael Paul? Hope you are well! MP.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Oct 28, 2007 - 07:01pm PT
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mike,
how many years do you have to have been climbing at JT to be old skool?
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Oct 28, 2007 - 09:03pm PT
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Hey Mike, missed this thread 'til the latest bump.
I was thinking White Gas, Pinched Rib, Yabo, New Years, 'til somebody said it was Alf. Couldn't possibly have been done more than once. Could it?
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TYeary
Mountain climber
Calif.
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Oct 28, 2007 - 09:17pm PT
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I don't know how many years it takes to be old school; I do know I started climbing there around 73 or 74. I remember a morning get together in Hidden Valley with coffee and such with the rangers. Largo, who was as Mike said a "God", came over and introduced himself to my pal Don Swendson. Don looked up in disbief at his hero while his hand disapeared into Largos mitt. Don was like a school girl, all giddy and sh#t. He mumbled something stupid and tried to be cool. I don't think he washed his hand for days hoping to channel some energy. I remember some great Saturday night campfires with friends known and unknown. It wasn't just the climbing, it was the scene; different from camp 4, but just as cool in it's own unique way. John's correct n that things began to change around 79 or 80, but I still venture out several times a year climbing with friends, new and old, camping and exploring with my kids. Josh will always occupy a special place in my heart. Sooooo many good memories. Oh to be young. Thanks for a great post Mike.
Tony
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Oct 28, 2007 - 09:28pm PT
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is that tony yaniro?
if no, sorry dude.
if yes, i still have a cool color pic of your FA of The Fang (F12), for the Wolfe/Dominick guide book (1979 edition)
you're wearing EBs and a swami, maybe even some leg loops.
cool pic, cool route
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 28, 2007 - 10:16pm PT
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Hey Brad Huys!!! Nah that was ALF with the gas on the Pinched Rib...I remember cause we had to severely raz him to rap down and clean the soot residue he left after this episode...MP.
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zip
Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
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Oct 28, 2007 - 10:40pm PT
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One of my earliest memories of climbing in JT was in the mid 80's when this dude talked me in to smoking a fatty with him and then soloing The Bong stoned with him.
He went first and kept looking down at me with this Cheshire Cat grin, laughing the whole way. I was freaking out and thought that bats were attacking me.
Later on he was driving in to town and crashed his van, and i think he lost part of his finger.
We went climbing again right after his accident, and he still climbed harder than me.
I don't remember his name, but will always have a fond memory of the time we spent in JT.
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BeeHay
Trad climber
San Diego CA
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Oct 28, 2007 - 11:11pm PT
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Yeah, 'stumpy' play de bass geetar with dat hand too!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Oct 28, 2007 - 11:19pm PT
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Zip said: "I don't remember his name"
LOL!
That dude was from outer space: his mum told me so!
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john bald
climber
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Oct 29, 2007 - 09:09pm PT
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Hey Mike, thanks for the post..good to hear all the grand times.
First route there was following Roy Naaz (sp) up the Orphan in '69. Was awestruck by the desert rats back then.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Oct 29, 2007 - 11:39pm PT
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and what about the new years party 1982...
the massive bonfire (1/2 cord of wood) and the running leaps through the fire.. i twisted my ankle on one and managed to get out unscathed....
those were the days when the rangers never came in at night and we had the place to party...
ks
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socalbolter
Sport climber
Silverado, CA
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Oct 30, 2007 - 12:03am PT
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First visit was Indian Cove in '74 with the Boy Scouts.
Many trips between then and now, with many good memories.
Thanks for firing up my mental slide show.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Oct 30, 2007 - 12:52pm PT
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Howdy Mike,
My first trip to Josh was with the Warbler. We headed south from the Valley in Dec 74 after we did the FA of upper Sentinal Falls. We craved warmer weather. When we arrived we immediately headed over to Double Cross and with Kevin leading the way started up sans a cord. Near the top we noticed a vehicle had pulled over to watch. We continued to the summit and then started the downclimb on the opposite side of the crag under that easy roof climb. Below, as we dangled from that big knob thing and dropped down to the slab below we noticed that the spectators in their car had pulled around into the campground and were still checking us out. We traversed across a narrow ledge and finished the desecnt, downclimbing this final 20 ft hand crack. At the base we were confronted by our two spectators--both rangers. They proceeded to lecture us about how they knew a thing or two about climbing and what we just did was real dangerous and they didn't want to have to be carrying us out in body bags blah, blah, blah. I can't remember our response. I don't think we laughed at them, or in general but rather our appearance said it all: two shirtless youths, sporting Varnets and sh#t eating grins as I am sure we were both stoned at the time. It was quite comical really. I had a host of other memorable moments there. Yabo's double solo of Leave it to Beaver was something neither I nor any of us there that day will ever forget. I also accompanied Alex Huber there on his first and perhaps only visit to Jtree. He had shown up in the Valley in early spring. A young lederhosen clad youth from Germany on his first visit to Yosemite. I met him at Kuak's, who was renting a place down the street from me in Yosemite West. I guess he got Ron's number from Heinz Zak. Ron was a not exactly uber social--I think it had something to do with him thinking Alex was being a little too friendly towards his women. I ended up taking him under my wing. It was shortly after this that he confided in me his reason for being in the Valley--to free the Salathe. I thought this quite audacious for the Valley/crack climbing neophyte but what the heck. It was nice to meet someone with a dream, a variation of the same dream we all had once as young climbers. One must remember at the time the general opinion of Todd and Paul's claim to have freed the Salathe was one of great skepticism if not downright disbelief. As the weather sucked in the Valley we headed to J tree along with Sean Myles and Jobee to climb and retrieve Heinz's car which was being stored in 29 Palms. Upon arriving I did my normal routine which generally started with that same solo of Double Cross. Alex watched and met me at the base of the descent. He wanted to learn to crack climb. I showed him the basics on that same twenty foot hand crack at the end of the down climb of the Old Woman. It was late in the day but there was no stopping him. He set up a top rope on that crack and using a self belay device proceeded climb up and down that crack until it was dark. That focus, determination and desire to learn new things served him well over the years. The rest as they say is history.
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chappy
Social climber
ventura
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Oct 30, 2007 - 01:24pm PT
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Kevin Worrall, Jtree Dec.1974 "Shirtless, varnet clad youth" with Billy Birdwell
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AKDOG
Mountain climber
Anchorage, AK
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Oct 30, 2007 - 04:42pm PT
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Mike great thread,
My first trip to JT was with Roy (Tardbuster) it was in the early 70’s my dad drove us out and we were probably 14 years old. Roy had a rope and I had a few stoppers and hexes and we were trying to climb in some mountain boots. We couldn’t get up Sh#t and were getting a little bummed out. Some friendly climber took pity on us and he led us up a climb on Intersection rock. A few years later we were using that same climb as the down climb off Intersection rock. JT is such a magical place!
Doug
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oldtopangalizard
Social climber
ca
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Oct 30, 2007 - 06:48pm PT
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Started climbing at Suicide in 1976 and never made it to JT until 1978. The guy who told us to meet him there took us to Headstone, Black Tide and the crack left of Double Cross, can't believe I forget the name. Great first day.
Winter climbing was as good as summer.Pretty much stopped crosscountry skiing on the Eastside after that.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Hey Mike,
43 years. Piveta Cortinas, nuts, swami's and homemade gear. Never a line anywear. We were damn lucky, weren't we ;-)
Still so much rock if you are willing to walk.
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philo
Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
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I don't say it often StahlBro but OMG! There you all are in that awesome, awesome pic. How wonderful. When was that pic taken? I met you your bother and your Mom thanksgiving of 75 or 76 I think. You were bigger but looked much the same. Glad to see this thread resurrected with such fantastic content.
I have to correct myself. My first trip to JT was 75/76. But I believe I met you and the fam in 80 because I was still walking -post operatively- with a cane then..
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Thanks Philo!
I think it is '72, but I am old and forgetful now. Dates sometimes escape me, but not the memories of the cool folks and good times.
That was a great Thanksgiving. I remember we had some of my mom's leftovers and wandered around to find some fun routes. Two Scoops maybe? Didn't you climb in your brace?
Cheers!
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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First time seeing this one....
We always had tons of fun out at JT....
Up thread the "Bullwinkle Traverse" ... make no mistake, it was not Deans car, heck he didn't even have a driver license, yet alone a car.
The Car was a brand new HONDA CIVC... I mean BRAND NEW like 350 miles on it. And if you recal, it was during the gas crisis and one of those babys got something like 35 miles to a gallon and the dealers got a couple of thousand bucks over sticker.... anyway Dean rolled Shawn Curtis ride while learning to drive.... fun times.
Who remembers the "Coast into town"????? Dead stick all the way to JT. One had to carry a ton of speed in the downhill lefthander, righthander after you got to the first homes.
We need more pictures:
Gary Ayers, Shawn Curtis and Dean look all cool
Me....
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TYeary
Social climber
State of decay
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TY
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Nice Tony
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rottingjohnny
Sport climber
mammoth lakes ca
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Love the robbins boots on Bob Winkle...
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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We were in diapers.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Does the early 1980s count? I've got an old photo from JT in the early 80s.
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ms55401
Trad climber
minneapolis, mn
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photos of old guys when they were young in JT are cool in my book
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Hey Watusi,
Great old thread featuring some funky old threads
Do wandering frostbacks from the late seventies count?
Hope you're well.
PB
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John Butler
Social climber
SLC, Utah
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First time was 1968... with my 68 year-old grandfather. He out-climbed, out-ran, out-hiked me for another 5 or 6 years. He was a Wind River/Teton raised hardman.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Three cheers for Michael Paul, one of the best rock climbers I've ever had the pleasure of knowing.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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That's me on the left in JT back about 30 years ago with my buddy Young Chu. I'm fresh out of boot camp with a sharp military haircut.
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Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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I first met Watusi in the SAR site in Yosemite. Mike Corbett and I were fixed on Cosmos and this new SAR guy "Mike Paul" wanted to join us. Well, he looked pretty sketchy and we were a bit suspicious of him, but man that dude could climb!
A couple of years later Watusi, Bonger, and I rented a house on Grandview st in JT, the scene of many festive evenings and weekends. We had one chair, a tv with a 4' screen, and two movies. At times there were up to forty people in the living room, and we had to repaint the walls because of the bathtub ring.I must have watched the Forbidden Zone fifty times that winter. Anyone remember gathering there?
Ironically, I just bought a house a couple of blocks away from that place. It still looks pretty much the same despite thirty years elapsed time.
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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Is that the same house russ lived in?
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Scole
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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It was the "Fish Tank" in an earlier incarnation.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I did get kind of lost there once...but it was mostly the Ukrainian's fault.
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Agent Skinner
Trad climber
Los Angeles
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Oct 26, 2012 - 07:36pm PT
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Kesey,
Thanks for the photo of Gary (Ayres). Do you have any more? He was a good friend and the reason I got into climbing. Miss him a lot. Am still in close contact with Misa here in the SF Bay Area.
Skinner
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little Z
Trad climber
un cafetal en Naranjo
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Oct 26, 2012 - 08:49pm PT
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Great thread.
dee ee, T Hocking, TYeary, amazing photos, thanks.
So Reilly, you climbed with Borat when he was young?
guyman, sure, that hex is going to hold in a crumbly horizontal crack...you wish. Those were the days!
I didn't start climbing at JT 'till '81 but riding bagos was still in style, lots of G.I.-rines around on the weekends blowin' off steam, and something that I've missed experiencing in recent years - low flying warplanes breaking the sound barrier, invariably when you were in the middle of some dicey move.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 27, 2012 - 12:25am PT
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Skinner, very nice.
I just love the TACO, so many great friends from the past.
I have more slides I need to scan, maybe some more of Gary.
I always remember the sunset Chelo concerts...
good times.
I hear Misa is coming down to JT for Thanksgiving.
I will see her.
Hope to see you to.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Oct 27, 2012 - 12:44am PT
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Tad .... nice shorts!!!
Did you ever Lycra??
THE REUNION in 06 was amazing
So many had changed and some were exactly the same
You need to drive down for New Years
and to Z
I don't care if hex can't hold ---- Not falling! : > )
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Oct 27, 2012 - 12:52pm PT
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The Boxer did the FA of the Fry Problem.
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BLUEBLOCR
Social climber
joshua tree
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Oct 27, 2012 - 02:18pm PT
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Wow, I like this controversy!
Let's poll out the" gloves" and resolve this like real egocentric materialist men.
Jus Spar'in
BB
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Russ Walling
Social climber
from Poofters Froth, Wyoming
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Oct 27, 2012 - 03:50pm PT
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The Boxer was still in Diapers when the Fry Problem was done
He started young. I think he was on the FA of Monkey on my Back too. Belayed Yabo and Cox on the boltless FA of that masterpiece.
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| Messages 1 - 145 of total 145 in this topic |
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