The Idiots Guide To Descending Lone Pine Peak


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Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 11:43am PT
We looked for the 5.7/fingercrack rock exit but I don't think we found it. Basically from the notch at the end of the ridge we went more or less straight up following the path of least resistance/mental taxation. As in, yarding on gear on anything close to vertical. There were some snow chutes and lots of loose stuff. We saw what looked like a finger crack over the final overhang, but Kras decided it looked like 5.12 and traversed to the right and then up. It involved some belly crawling but was not too hard.
Agreed, if our objective had been to find the worst possible descent, then we succeeded;)

Mar 26, 2009 - 11:46am PT

You definitely beat Ian and my descent off banner. Hell, the chopper pretty much trumps most everything (except actually getting in one)


Mar 26, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
Did I hear someone say "Banner"?

Trad climber
Lee, NH
Mar 26, 2009 - 12:51pm PT
You got Banner stories?
John Moosie

Beautiful California
Mar 26, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
Yowzer. Nice tale. Great writing.

Thanks !!!

Mar 26, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
Yeah I've got a Banner Story. Cr0tch - was it you and your wife that Ian and I met up there last summer. We help you through the free crux and you help us (US = 2 ICE/SNOW noobs) on the descent.

We had crappy baby insteps.


Trad climber
Mar 26, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
With all this wonderful "discussion" going on, I just had to chime in...
Nate: to answer your question, we did go straight up, deciding against the death gully; there was some unimpressive climbing (2 pitches or so) which lead you to an obvious finger crack - the crack begins at an overhang and becomes harder, my guess on a good day, dry it's 11+, 12, so we decided against that being in plastics and with a pack. I headed right, past the crack and climbed what was mostly an easy pitch, with a short section of 5.7 but with good gear; then it became easier - drc took some other variation, as I placed only 3-4 pieces for the entire rope length - I am not sure if his variation was easier or harder, but he did bark something about "screwing the second." I don't think it is the route described on the summitpost page, but am sure there are many ways to make it onto the plateau from the notch.


Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
Ah Kras, velcome to the taco stand brah;)

Mar 26, 2009 - 04:01pm PT
Loved it. Nice work on the route, and a fabulous TR!

Social climber
Mar 26, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
hey there, say... i always love it when you all draw the routes on the photos...

say, thanks for the share...

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Mar 26, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
Great Epic Story! As a old fart climber who had his adventures in the 1970's and 80's------I am impressed that you were able to share this epic so soon.

It used to take me 5-10 years, and a lot of alcohol, before I could confess to the route gone wrong and the horrible, stupid (only in retrospect) retreat.

Wonderful reading, and yes I would love to see more of this on ST.
thanks, Fritz

Mar 27, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
Yup, that was us on Banner last summer, a climb that just kept going and going and going. Did you guys take any pics? I think I left my camera in the bag most of the day.

Oakland: what's not to love?
Mar 30, 2009 - 11:16am PT



Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jun 16, 2009 - 06:05am PT

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jun 25, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
bump for one of the most humble and hilarious TR's I have ever read twice!

DRC/Dirka/Iron curtain cowboy, you are the man.

Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
Jun 25, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
I recently recommended this report to someone and then read it again, too. Still one of the best in years, in my recall.
Mike Dahlquist

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
Jun 25, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
Did this route make it in the new Secor "Peaks, Passes and Trails: 3rd Edition," or do we have to wait for the 4th?

Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
Jun 25, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
Nice writing and some good chuckles. You gotta love a good epic. Worth reading again-bump.

Just takin' the long way home...
Jun 25, 2009 - 10:53pm PT

I am laughing so hard, the tears are running. In another lifetime I might've suggested being kinder to yourself because, after all, we all make mistakes...even multiple dumb-arse right after another (mine is called Sleeping With Farting Strangers: The Day I Didn't Summit Whitney). But the whipping-boy tone of this piece, drc, has me rolling on the floor. Brilliant storytelling, simply brilliant.

Thanks for an excellent TR of a happy-you-lived-to-talk-about-it epic. The photo of the "fine dining experience" will live in my memory forever...

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Jun 26, 2009 - 07:18am PT
Thanks for a fun thread!
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