drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 11:43am PT
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We looked for the 5.7/fingercrack rock exit but I don't think we found it. Basically from the notch at the end of the ridge we went more or less straight up following the path of least resistance/mental taxation. As in, yarding on gear on anything close to vertical. There were some snow chutes and lots of loose stuff. We saw what looked like a finger crack over the final overhang, but Kras decided it looked like 5.12 and traversed to the right and then up. It involved some belly crawling but was not too hard.
Agreed, if our objective had been to find the worst possible descent, then we succeeded;)
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kev
climber
CA
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Mar 26, 2009 - 11:46am PT
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DRC,
You definitely beat Ian and my descent off banner. Hell, the chopper pretty much trumps most everything (except actually getting in one)
kev
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crøtch
climber
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Mar 26, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
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Did I hear someone say "Banner"?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 26, 2009 - 12:51pm PT
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You got Banner stories?
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Mar 26, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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Yowzer. Nice tale. Great writing.
Thanks !!!
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kev
climber
CA
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Mar 26, 2009 - 01:32pm PT
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Yeah I've got a Banner Story. Cr0tch - was it you and your wife that Ian and I met up there last summer. We help you through the free crux and you help us (US = 2 ICE/SNOW noobs) on the descent.
We had crappy baby insteps.
kev
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dankras
Trad climber
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Mar 26, 2009 - 03:50pm PT
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With all this wonderful "discussion" going on, I just had to chime in...
Nate: to answer your question, we did go straight up, deciding against the death gully; there was some unimpressive climbing (2 pitches or so) which lead you to an obvious finger crack - the crack begins at an overhang and becomes harder, my guess on a good day, dry it's 11+, 12, so we decided against that being in plastics and with a pack. I headed right, past the crack and climbed what was mostly an easy pitch, with a short section of 5.7 but with good gear; then it became easier - drc took some other variation, as I placed only 3-4 pieces for the entire rope length - I am not sure if his variation was easier or harder, but he did bark something about "screwing the second." I don't think it is the route described on the summitpost page, but am sure there are many ways to make it onto the plateau from the notch.
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drc
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
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Ah Kras, velcome to the taco stand brah;)
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Mike.
climber
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Mar 26, 2009 - 04:01pm PT
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Loved it. Nice work on the route, and a fabulous TR!
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Mar 26, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
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hey there, say... i always love it when you all draw the routes on the photos...
say, thanks for the share...
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Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
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Mar 26, 2009 - 07:13pm PT
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Great Epic Story! As a old fart climber who had his adventures in the 1970's and 80's------I am impressed that you were able to share this epic so soon.
It used to take me 5-10 years, and a lot of alcohol, before I could confess to the route gone wrong and the horrible, stupid (only in retrospect) retreat.
Wonderful reading, and yes I would love to see more of this on ST.
thanks, Fritz
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crøtch
climber
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Mar 27, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
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Yup, that was us on Banner last summer, a climb that just kept going and going and going. Did you guys take any pics? I think I left my camera in the bag most of the day.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Mar 30, 2009 - 11:16am PT
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10/10!
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Jun 16, 2009 - 06:05am PT
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Nice!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Jun 25, 2009 - 09:56pm PT
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bump for one of the most humble and hilarious TR's I have ever read twice!
DRC/Dirka/Iron curtain cowboy, you are the man.
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Daphne
Trad climber
Mill Valley, CA
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Jun 25, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
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I recently recommended this report to someone and then read it again, too. Still one of the best in years, in my recall.
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Mike Dahlquist
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 25, 2009 - 10:07pm PT
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Did this route make it in the new Secor "Peaks, Passes and Trails: 3rd Edition," or do we have to wait for the 4th?
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 25, 2009 - 10:19pm PT
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Nice writing and some good chuckles. You gotta love a good epic. Worth reading again-bump.
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L
climber
Just takin' the long way home...
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Jun 25, 2009 - 10:53pm PT
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OMG...
I am laughing so hard, the tears are running. In another lifetime I might've suggested being kinder to yourself because, after all, we all make mistakes...even multiple dumb-arse mistakes...one right after another (mine is called Sleeping With Farting Strangers: The Day I Didn't Summit Whitney). But the whipping-boy tone of this piece, drc, has me rolling on the floor. Brilliant storytelling, simply brilliant.
Thanks for an excellent TR of a happy-you-lived-to-talk-about-it epic. The photo of the "fine dining experience" will live in my memory forever...
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Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
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Jun 26, 2009 - 07:18am PT
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Thanks for a fun thread!
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