The Idiots Guide To Descending Lone Pine Peak


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Brutus of Wyde

Old Climbers' Home, Oakland CA
Mar 24, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
Nice TR!!!

Keeping off the rappels really isn't hard at all:

If it looks like you're heading toward cliffs (That huge south face seen when looking up Tuttle Creek) don't go that way.

(If you haven't looked up at the South Face, then remember in Gladiator when the hero is trying to get back to his wife and kid before the Praetorians kill them, and pauses to have a campfire... That's the Peak in the background, and the left escarpment is the thing you DON'T want to descend unless you like to write TRs like this one)...

ANYWAYS, don't go that way.

If it gets dark, bivy before getting into trouble (Done that two different times on the way down from the summit plateau)

Hope this helps!


"Experience is the worst teacher: It gives you the test before you have taken the course."

Mar 24, 2009 - 07:16pm PT
Does DRC have a new nickname ? The chef suggested
"iron curtain cowboy?" Kinda fitting


Social climber
New Zealand -> Santa Barbara
Mar 24, 2009 - 07:37pm PT
Great TR and thanks for posting up such a fine tale. Must go up there myself sometime...

Cheers, Roy
mark miller

Social climber
Mar 24, 2009 - 08:18pm PT
Your TR is great but the route info on the Link is inaccurate, on dates at least.
I climbed that Route with Harding's et al,( Christy Tews) in 82 or 83 and the summit registry already had many ascents including winter ascents back then.

Trad climber
Mar 24, 2009 - 09:09pm PT
Sweet TR,

Trad climber
Mar 24, 2009 - 11:43pm PT
Back to the front page bump.....
Timid TopRope

Social climber
Paradise, CA
Mar 24, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
great writing of yur epic! i particularly like what this line (with pictures to illustrate) connotes about getting up in the high and wild,

"Along the way you will encounter stunning views, first-rate accomodations, and fine dining."

Nice pictures too! thanks


Boulder climber
Salt Lake, UT
Mar 25, 2009 - 12:47am PT
Great TR. I've looked up at that ridge a few times, and while it looked fun, I did wonder about the time back to the car.

Mar 25, 2009 - 02:17am PT
Great tr. When Victor and I were talking on the phone, I had no idea what an E-ticket this really was. Nice job in getting up ,over, and down. Sheesh!

Sport climber
Mar 25, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
Last until August at least! j/k

I really enjoyed reading this. Amazing adventure!

I am truly happy you guys are safe..

Trad climber
Green Mountains, Vermont
Mar 25, 2009 - 04:15pm PT
Excellent. Way to bring the morbid humor of the moment to a TR.
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 25, 2009 - 04:37pm PT
approach...from the desert floor

That's not merely the approach, it's the direct start to the approach. Rarely even contemplated. Foolishness worthy of the great Warren Harding. Uh...didn't see any bunnies, did you?


Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 25, 2009 - 04:44pm PT
No white bunnies DR, there was some deliriuos contemplation of the Williamson escapade next winter.
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 25, 2009 - 05:00pm PT

Now that the iron door of "official" winter has clanged shut, visions of Williamson are safely distant.

For now.

Pass me that hookah. I need a shot of that, what was it? Strawberry banana? Peachy half-rack?

Social climber
Truckee, CA
Mar 26, 2009 - 03:31am PT
Just back from an OT road trip, and this...this does not deserve to be buried on the third page.

Hilarious and well-written epic-with-a-happy-ending BUMP!!!!!

Trad climber
Mar 26, 2009 - 11:08am PT
So we can we say there is now a rap route coming off the SFLPP? Sweet! Way to play it cool and get down in one piece. Hilarious TR!

The funny thing was that we were up there the same day you guys were. We were trying to send Dynamo Hum, the massive right facing dihedral that you came down several hours later. Did you see our tracks/anchors anywhere? We had to bail because it started falling apart and water was gushing everywhere. There was some nice mixed pitches but it had just gotten too warm.


Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 12:55pm PT
Your tracks were like a guiding light in that canyon. We followed them all the way to the stone house. Would've taken twice as long without em. It was still a bit confusing around "The Hole".


Trad climber
San Diego
Mar 26, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
Thats crazy that you guys found our tracks. We knew that the gully we were in cliffed out so we decided to switch gullies through that hole. It was pretty cool how it ended up working out.

Nice TR! The thing I love most about spending the time to write a good TR is when you read it again after a year or two or 10. It really brings you back to the moment and brings a smile to your face. I can see you reading this TR some years down the line. Good for you!

I think traveling_light and I might write up something about our dynamo hum failure. Or at least our Ambien induced ice tool fight. stay tuned...
Nate Ricklin

San Diego
Mar 26, 2009 - 02:28pm PT
Nice Send on the NER in Winter! Did you do the straight-up exit variation or the death gully?

Oh, and had you guys done the descent from LPP before?! It can get WAY gnarly down in Tuttle Creek, manzanita-style. I wouldn't want to do it for the first time at night... You guys basically went down the worst possible way, I can't believe you rapped the south face!

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 26, 2009 - 02:43pm PT
We looked for the 5.7/fingercrack rock exit but I don't think we found it. Basically from the notch at the end of the ridge we went more or less straight up following the path of least resistance/mental taxation. As in, yarding on gear on anything close to vertical. There were some snow chutes and lots of loose stuff. We saw what looked like a finger crack over the final overhang, but Kras decided it looked like 5.12 and traversed to the right and then up. It involved some belly crawling but was not too hard.
Agreed, if our objective had been to find the worst possible descent, then we succeeded;)
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