Fritz Wiessner- A Man For All Mountains

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Messages 61 - 73 of total 73 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Sep 10, 2012 - 07:21am PT
I can confirm that Wiessner's route L'Imperiale on Mt. King in Val David, Quebec is a very hard and serious route. Back in the mid-'70s Al Long and I seemed to be climbing pretty well during a visit to the Val David climbing areas but were stopped cold by L'Imperiale---couldn't even see what to do, though had little trouble with the supposedly harder "Direct" put up by Turner or one of his compatriots a decade or so later. Though Canadian John Brett was apparantly the first to climb on the Val David crags, it was Wiessner's subsequent visits that really began the development of the area and of rock climbing in general in Quebec.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2013 - 02:37pm PT
Fritz Bump...
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Feb 18, 2013 - 02:55pm PT
Thank you Steve.....some climbing history that ISN'T about Yosemite!
Brandon-

climber
The Granite State.
Feb 18, 2013 - 03:05pm PT
Great history here. Thanks, I missed it the first time around.

Weissner and Underhill were my old school heroes when I first started learning my climbing history.
jogill

climber
Colorado
Feb 18, 2013 - 04:18pm PT
It was fun in the 1950s to come across traces of FW in the Needles of SD.

;>)
Neesh

Trad climber
Connecticut
Feb 19, 2013 - 12:44am PT
Every time I climb one of his routes I think about what he had when he made the FA, inspiring
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Feb 19, 2013 - 02:05am PT
hey there say, steve....nice to see this bump, :)
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Feb 20, 2013 - 11:47am PT
A bump.

Fritz and I went out to Stoney Point on what I remember as being his first Stoney Point experience - in the mid-70s. He wanted to climb some friction - some face climbing, but nothing to exposed. I took him took to Spencer Slab - he loved it.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 20, 2013 - 12:39pm PT
I'm not sure if any one saw the mountain profile of K2 in a couple recent issues of Alpinist. They go into good detail about Weissner's near successful climb in 1932 (right year?). Thinking that the Bottleneck was not safe, he cramponed up the rock next to it, which no one else has even attempted. Absolutely hard core stuff. One just shakes one's head in wonder.
Alan Rubin

climber
Amherst,MA.
Feb 20, 2013 - 12:43pm PT
Fat Dad--1939.
Fat Dad

Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
Feb 20, 2013 - 04:43pm PT
Thanks Alan. I knew the year sounded wrong.
climbski2

Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
Feb 20, 2013 - 05:24pm PT
I wrote a short paper on Weisner's ascent of K2 in college. I still cannot think of a more impressive ascent in mountaineering history. technically not a success I suppose and sadly there were men of much lower ability and perhaps character involved who created problems and ridiculous controversy regarding Weisner's actions.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 25, 2013 - 10:53am PT
Heroic Bump...
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