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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 20, 2009 - 02:15am PT
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Hello Boys,
56 year old “Seen Better Years….Illusions of Granduer….A Shell of My Former Self” Cracko here after five days in the Valley attempting to hone my solo aid technique. As you may recall from my “Playing on the Muir” post, most of you severely berated me for even thinking about it.
Hell, even Russ, who stands to gain monetarily from my next ledge purchase, told me to instead go in my backyard holding two buckets of sand and stand under a sprinkler. Double D invited me to remove his concrete driveway with a sledge hammer. Peter Haan probably had the best advice which went something like……Face the fact that you’re an old man and not in shape for a solo of El Cap. You haven’t climbed EC in over a decade. The only path is to get back in the game of climbing all the time !!
While Peter is probably right, three kids, a full time job, and “life” prevents me right now from realizing my burning desire to become a climbing bum. So, with all this good advice, what do I do?? Like an adolescent, I thumb my nose at the ST establishment, pack up my truck and head to Yosemite Valley for five days !! And……..here’s the TR I promised somebody. So Boys, grab a cup of coffee or a beer, and get ready to laugh your asses off !!!!
Monday, March 16th, 6:00 am
My daughter Cassidy never sleeps past 5:30 am thus assuring an “Alpine Start” !! I furiously load my Tacoma with every bit of climbing/camping gear I can find in my garage. I drop Cassidy off at her mother’s house and I’m ……”On The Road!!!” First stop 7-11 for 28 ounces of coffee. I leave the store, set the coffee on top of my truck while moving gear in the back seat, jump into the driver’s seat, put it in reverse and punch it…………….28 ounces of hot coffee over the hood !!!! I let out a controlled “F Bomb” and then march back into the store for another cup of coffee.
Back on the road, I head N toward Bakersfield and onto the 99 toward Merced. I’ve grown tired of the 41 thru Fresno and now prefer the drive along the lower Merced River. That is, when Tioga Pass is closed thus preventing me from coming into the Valley from the East.
Well, I’m “warming” to my third cup of coffee as I drive through Fresno headed toward Merced, and soon find myself entering the Lower Merced canyon headed for Yosemite. Soon I arrive at the the Arch Rock entrance, and “smugly” flash my National Parks pass at the Ranger as I drive through.
I continue “rubbernecking” all the way up to the El Cap Meadow turn off, and then pull into El Cap Meadows to check out the action. The weather is absolutely beautiful and it appears there is nobody around. I scan the whole of El Cap and see only one party on T Trip. As usual, I pull out my chair and spend a couple hours watching the T Trip party do battle. They apparently fixed to the midway station on the fifth pitch and were jumaring up to it when I arrived. When I came back that evening, they were bivied at the same station. Hmmmm could I do better as a soloist ??
I had booked a campsite in Upper Pines, and went to claim my spot. Hardly anyone in the campground, so I threw down a chair and drove back to El Cap Meadows to sort gear for tomorrow’s solo aid practice.
When I arrived, the TTrip boys were attempting to finish the fifth pitch and climb the sixth. I never saw them make it to the top of 6 and, as I said, they ended up bivying at the midway station on five. Of course, I made a mental note of this.
Sorting my gear was a Cluster Fukc of major proportions !! As darkness fell, I had a big wall harness and chest harness loaded with enough gear to do Reticent, and two 60 m ropes and some water, all stuffed into a rather small haul bag with a crappy suspension system. Satisfied, I headed for dinner at the lodge cafe.
Tuesday, March 17th
Woke up at 6:00 am and headed for the café for breakfast. Then headed for El Cap Meadows with the idea of doing the first couple pitches of NA Wall. Spent some time sitting in the Meadow (my favorite pastime) watching the TTrip party, and suddenly I see an animal running thru the Meadow to my left. I first thought it was a coyote, but when I turned I saw a small golden brown black bear running full speed from the Merced toward the road, with me in its path. I just sat still, and suddenly this bear put on the breaks and came to a dead stop about twenty yards to my left. He looked at me…..I looked at him and then he slowly walked West through the Meadows and across the road toward El Cap.
I went back to my truck, sat on the tailgate and tried to get connected to my haul bag. I was finally able to stand up and center the load. I threw another rope around my neck and started plodding toward the base trail. I was feeling pretty good until I started climbing up past the alcove toward the NA. While negotiating some lose rock, one of my haul bag straps suddenly came lose resulting in the massive bag swinging down and away from me, and “planting” me face up in the talus. I laughed like a drunk as I imagined the ST faithful critiquing this pitiful performance just before slapping a “Gumby” tag on my fat ass !!!
Well, I repaired the strap, re-shouldered the load, and began staggering up the steep slope. Five minutes later, after stepping on a loose rock, I spun, tried to regain my balance but fell flat on my back……..a classic “Turtle” !! Now, most men would have broken at this point, but not I……I’m an El Cap solo hopefull with nerves of steel and tough as nails !!! After fifteen minutes of non-stop horselaughing, I regained my senses, and my haul bag, and completed the approach to the base of NA Wall.
Within minutes (a whole lot of them) I had my anchor in, my rope fixed, my GriGri properly threaded, my haul line tied in, and enough gear to climb the whole Fing wall !!
The first few large nut placements were easy enough as I struggled to work out the routine for aider/daisy placement and storage. After an orange Alien placement I began feeling a little frisky, and slapped in a cam hook move to get to another nut placement. A couple more HB offset moves got me close to the small roof, when suddenly it began to rain like hell !!!
I tied my first back up knot and tried to hide under my helmet. There was not a cloud to be seen and nothing but blue skies. WTF ?? I looked up to see the source of the downpour. Water was streaming off the top and down onto “Easy Street”, and then falling directly to the base. Earlier, I had noticed Horsetail Falls roaring, but hadn’t noticed any run off on this part of El Cap. Hadn’t Tom or Clint warned me of ice fall and run off at the base of the Muir. “Better to wait till later in the Spring” was their advice. Dumbass gumby……..gonna cost the taxpayer big if he gets hypothermic fifteen feet up NA Wall !!
The downpour stopped, but would recycle every 20 minutes. Completely drenched, I made it to the top of pitch one, rapped back to the ground on my haul line, clamped the jumars on my lead line, and jugged back up to clean the pitch. I was originally gonna haul as well, but after getting another shower while cleaning, I set up the rappel, rapped down, and pulled the ropes. I loaded all the gear back in the bag, carelessly threw both ropes over the top and stampeded back to my truck. The fact that I didn’t stumble or “Turtle” on the descent is a credit to my astute footwork and fierce drive.
Once back in the Meadow drinking a beer, I calculated my car to car time for pitch one on NA Wall at four hours and thirty minutes. Might need to trim that a bit before jumping on the Captain solo !!!
Spent that evening in the Mountain Room Bar drinking a few and watching NCAA basketball.
Wednesday, March 18th
Woke up soar but ready for another day of solo aid. Today’s target would be the first few pitches of Muir or Magic Mushroom. The approach would certainly be shorter than yesterday’s. Learning absolutely nothing from my experience the day before, I again carried a full wrack. However, I did leave the haul bag in the truck and jingle-jangled up the approach trail with all gear hanging from my climbing harness and chest harness. I never realized the Salathe first pitch was so close to the toe of the Nose.
Two parties were doing the freeblast, so I stopped to watch them on the first couple pitches. Damn that first pitch looked inviting…….a complete cam jug for me !! Alas, a real solo aid climber needs to pound some iron, so time to find another climb. The first two pitches of Magic Mushroom looked like hell, with no chance for aid until the third or fourth pitch. Muir Wall didn’t look any better until I came around the corner and saw Moby Dick Center !!
Now, I’m very sensitive about clogging up a good free route while I dick around on aid. But, since there was no one else at the base, and seemingly no one else in the Valley, I decided to have at it. I anchored my rope and slung just two single aiders on my harness, putting the other two in the pack. I was wearing my free shoes so decided to free this beautiful crack as much as I could. The first ten feet was 10a, and I was thrilled to lock in two consecutive finger jams and smear my way to a bomber hand jam where I slapped in a solid camalot. I moved up to another solid cam placement where I clipped in my aider.
It was at this point that I decided I would work on going from aid to free and free to aid, as I plundered up this beauty wishing I had the balls to rope solo free the whole thing. After arriving at the anchor atop the first pitch (actually the second pitch) I looked up at the awful looking, left-facing open book, third and forth pitches and lost all desire to continue. While the jangle of pins, hooks, aliens, HB’s, cam hooks, big cams etc. etc. suggested I was ready for these pitches. The large red grooves on the skin of my shoulders from carrying all this shite up a beautiful crack, and my complete loss of resolve told another story !!
Postscript
You guys are right !!! I’m a complete idiot thinking I can just walk into Yosemite Valley and solo an El Cap route. Peter, in particular, is right!! If I am to ever realize this dream, I must first regain the fitness and aerobic shape I was in when I first did El Cap ten years ago. I must then find the time to do the same “preparatory work” I did before my first El Cap climb including a lot of long free climbs and grade five walls.
Haven’t had five days off by myself for many years. Can’t think of a better place to spend it then Yosemite. And….it was beautiful !!
Then again……..First pitch of NA Wall car to car in 4 ½ hours. Maybe I am ready !!!
The Dream Still Lives !!!!
Cracko
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 20, 2009 - 02:20am PT
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Thanks, Cracko - a good tale!
You may be moving too fast for people like PTPP, though. I believe a pitch a day is more his style.
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Josh Higgins
Trad climber
San Diego
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Mar 20, 2009 - 02:22am PT
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Way to go for it. Mark Twight says you learn more from your failures than your success. I hope to read a successful TR in the future!
Thanks,
Josh
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 20, 2009 - 02:24am PT
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Way to live, Cracko!
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Mar 20, 2009 - 02:33am PT
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Good read. Thanks!
Maybe in 10 years when I'm fat like you I'll aspire to try the same thing. Err... well... maybe yer knott
fat ;-)
thanks for the report - awesome!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Mar 20, 2009 - 02:41am PT
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bump, well because he ain't sitting on his ass, and I am.
more power to ya!
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bkalaska
Trad climber
SAn Francisco, CA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 02:46am PT
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That sounds like a beautiful four days in the Valley. I was there Sunday and was loving the solitude and sunshine.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 04:10am PT
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Cool. You got out there, you got up some pitches, you are already getting into shape, and you had fun. That's what it's all about. A lot of people are jealous now!
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Mar 20, 2009 - 04:16am PT
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Wow Cracko, you took Russ' advice one step further.
" even Russ, who stands to gain monetarily from my next ledge purchase, told me to instead go in my backyard holding two buckets of sand and stand under a sprinkler."
You used a natural waterfall. haha...
Way to go !!!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 20, 2009 - 09:23am PT
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Yay! Cracko!
You just need to learn to duct tape your cup to your truck!
Great read!
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Mar 20, 2009 - 09:49am PT
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THAT is a tale worth re-reading! Thanks for the story, and way to go!
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Gunkie
climber
East Coast US
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Mar 20, 2009 - 09:55am PT
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Geez, 4 1/2 hours round trip, not bad. I'm thinking at least two bivys before I yell for a rescue from around the base of Negative Pinnacle.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 10:03am PT
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Great story.
Don't give up on your dreams, regardless of the opinions of others.
It's the effort, not the attainment, that's important.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Mar 20, 2009 - 10:39am PT
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Hey, that was a really fun read and great self-analysis.
First off, don't let anyone talk you out of your plan to solo El Cap. It is a HIGHLY ACHIEVABLE goal if you are willing to practise and pay your dues. But you have to *want* it. I will be the first to tell you to "keep on keepin' on," and not give up. I learned how to solo by practising on my local crags, setting up belays in the middle of a pitch, and hauling bags of rocks.
You did a fine job soloing the first pitch of NA Wall. That's a great practice pitch. I warmed up on it before climbing the first pitch of the Ranch, where I had busted my ankle a few years before. That you stuck it out in the "rain" proves you can stick it out through adverse conditions. Your speed and time is fine - don't worry about that. If you perfect your haul systems, you can take enough food, water and beer to climb El Cap at a rate of a pitch or two a day, which is all you need to do.
But to me in your story, there is a crux, and that crux is when you stand on top of Moby Dick and look up. This was your decision point. This was the point where the rubber really met the rock. You'd played around on the easy stuff, even kinda free climbing it, but now you had to launch out on unfamiliar and scary-looking ground. Standing at the base of El Cap and looking up - with nobody but yourself to help you climb it - can be a bollocks-shrivelling experience. And instead of carrying on, you bailed.
So what you need to do is take a good look inside your heart, and figure out precisely why you bailed. You mention "lack of resolve". If this is how you *really* feel, then maybe a solo of El Cap isn't for you?
Or alternatively, maybe you were just feeling tired and lonely, and had had enough for the time being. Maybe that soaking the previous day really knackered you. So you backed off, but remained hardened and determined to come back more mentally and physically prepared next time.
So in your mind, go back to the top of that pitch, and tell us why you bailed. What was going through your mind? Was it a moment of realization that soloing El Cap just isn't for you? Or are you sitting now in front of your computer, thinking about it, and wishing you'd gone on? Are you dying for a rematch, or are you hanging up your rack? Do you have any gear for sale, or are you buying more?
To me, the really interesting part of your trip report will if you choose to share what went on in your mind when you bailed, how you are feeling now, and what you hope to accomplish in the future.
But it sounds like you had lots of fun, anyway - thanks for a great read!
Cheers,
Pete
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Mar 20, 2009 - 10:44am PT
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Good effort Cracko! At least you are approaching it humbly. You'll nail it one of these days.
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Double D
climber
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Mar 20, 2009 - 10:51am PT
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Cracko… the candle still burns? Seriously it sounds as if you had a small dose of humility but not enough to really do the trick, sort of like taking one aspirin when you need Vicodin.
Ok…try this, go to your favorite gym…join it and pay enough to where you feel obligated to go. Now instead of working some work-out-from-hell program let your eyes graze the joint for the fairest damsel you can find on a stairmaster machine…not a treadmill, no spin bikes or the like…the STAIRMASTER!
Ok, now get on the stairmaster immediately to her right or left and simply keep pace with her FOR THE ENTIRE HOUR that she is on it. Oh yea, try and carry on a conversation while you are adjusting your intervals upwards.
When you have mastered the above exercise you are well on your way towards your El Cap fitness training goal. Refer back to Supertopo forum for further instruction for the next step, as there will be plenty of fat, older out-of-shape-balding guys that will assist you on the successive steps that you will need to complete your goals.
It’s all about the dream…not the actual chase my man!
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 20, 2009 - 10:53am PT
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That was absolutely brilliant, dble D! I stole the last line, resonant of Kerouac!
Once upon a time, I was hanging out with Walt in his van as he was racking up to solo the P.O. He'd climbed maybe 7 (9?) pitches and left them fixed, but in a moment of existential despair, he pulled his ropes, allegedly to never go back.
He had hung on the ground for a week, soloing the Nutcracker and having beers with 'cid @ the Deli....
Until the morning I mentioned;
"And then, when I got up this morning, I knew where I had to go, Hoh man, I gotta lead those pitches all over again! Hey check out your buddy wheels, he's torquing. Why do we do these things to ourselves?"
I think 'cid was around that day, too.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Mar 20, 2009 - 10:55am PT
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Ha ha! Good read.
Thanks,
Zander
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couchmaster
climber
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Mar 20, 2009 - 11:05am PT
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Thanks for sharing it Cracko, hey, I was wondering how many days were your muscles sore after the Moby Dick day??
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:03pm PT
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bravo to the Cracko!
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:04pm PT
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This is one excellent TR! Thanks for sharing it -
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F10
Trad climber
e350
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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Cracko,
"lose your dreams and you'll lose your mind"
Keep at it
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:14pm PT
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I don't understand what went so badly about that whole deal aside from the drip off NA???
One of the first things you'll need to learn to deal with if you plan on soloing El Cap is the dissapointment of not reaching your goals. Sometimes you may come up a pitch short for the day...oh well, does it mean the day went badly? Does it mean it's time to bail? F*#k no, get up earlier and push harder the next day.
You got a taste of what you are in for soloing El Cap and it sounds like that was your goal, so mission accomplished!
I wouldn't put any weight on the car to car time thing. If you are allready analayzing times you are bound to drive yourself crazy soloing the Captain and bail. Bring enough stuff and take as long as it takes.
Another tip, get yourself (or pull it out of the closet) a nice comfortable large volume backback with good straps for carrying your gear to the base. Makes the approach much less miserable. I try to never carry more then a few pounds in the haulbag on that last load.
Good luck man!
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
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Well done, Cracko!
When I was 56 (emphasis on was) I discovered what you discovered. I intended to do the first pitch of Pacific Ocean Wall and then move on to the first pitch of the NA. I had a big enough rack to leave gear in every placement and still have enough left over to solo the Nose.
After getting soaked on Pacific Ocean (also in March), I lumbered back to the car, drove to the Lodge, and crawled up the first pitch of Rixon's Direct South Face. These two events combined took all day. Like you, they also taught me that aerobic shape has something to do with successful aid soloing of big walls.
I proceeded to get in that shape. Unfortunately, though, my method was one I can't recommend -- viz. six months at Taft Federal Correctional Institution. Once I got out, the reality of paying for two children in college forced me to work about four jobs to earn half as much money as I earned before the events that led to my aerobic fitness, so I'm now just as out of shape as before, but the dream lives on.
Keep posting. You inspire a lot of us aging would-be (or have-been?)lions.
Thanks again,
John
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bobinc
Trad climber
Portland, Or
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Mar 20, 2009 - 01:51pm PT
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Wait...what about the prison TR?
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 02:26pm PT
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Well, I want to thank you all for listening and responding. All in all, I find ST Forum to be a source of inspiration regardless of how often I feel like the recipient of the quote from the movie "A Knights Tale"........."You have been weighed, you have been measured, and you have been found wanting." Now, as a result of my post, I must suffer through the indignity of being placed on the "couch" by Pete, with his " To me, the really interesting part of your trip report will be if you choose to share what went on in your mind when you bailed, how you are feeling now, and what you hope to accomplish in the future."
Sorta of reminds me of the comment by one of my father's friends who was being asked about the counseling he was involved in...."I know I'm an as#@&%e....why should I pay somebody $100 an hour to tell me so??" Well Pete, here is my response to your question.
While standing atop the Moby Dick pillar, after successfully ascending Moby Dick Center, I sat back, focused on the beautiful scenery, and thought of my children. I thought of the time, ten years ago, when I arrived at the summit of Zodiac and listened to my young daughters, who were watching below, praise me on the two-way radio as Jason Parr of NPR asked me..."What are you feeling right now?". The tears streaming down my face were the only answer I had. I am a very emotional human being who sees climbing as a symbol of the value of pursuing one's dreams. It is something I try to remember every day as a middle school principal. What made me lose my resolve at this point?? I think it was a combination of not knowing if I had the "wide gear" necessary to complete the next pitch, coupled with the fact that I wasn't confident in my "wide" free climbing technique. As I sat on the ledge, I "analyzed" myself, and thought that if I were actually starting my solo of El Cap that I would make it happen. As I sit here typing on my computer, I find myself eager to return to this pitch and make it go !!!
As I sit here in the aftermath of my El Cap solo training trip, I know that an eventual solo of El Cap will be the "real world application", and culminating event, in instilling in my children, and students, the importance of dreaming.....establishing life goals, and working hard to realize them. Thanks for asking.
Cracko
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up2top
Big Wall climber
Phoenix, AZ
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:02pm PT
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You give me hope, bro. Keep at it.
Ed
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Paulina
Trad climber
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:05pm PT
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Cheers! You climbed, that's all that matters.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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Cracko,
You must have had at least a couple #4s to get up Moby Dick Center right?
I don't recal using anything bigger then that till like pitch 4 or 5 I think where we used an old 4.5 for one move.
Those pitches are nothing special anyway, just grovely easy aid.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 03:15pm PT
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Thanks Lambone,
You're probably right! I don't recall anything more than a #3 on Moby Dick Center, and that first part on pitch three looked a hell of a lot wider than that. Let's face it....I was intimidated, and tucked tail and ran to the Lodge. Damit! I'm headed back next month.
Cracko
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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Cracko,
The title should be training goes radly. You got out and did it! I've bailed of much less consequential things for lamer reasons.
It's a darn fine inspiration for those of us that also aspire to solo walls.
The funny thing is, when I was younger, in better shape and had basically no worldly reasons not to jump on a solo wall, I didn't as I didn't have the head for it. Now, I have the head for it, but due to lack of shape and family/career obligations It'll be some time.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:19pm PT
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Alright then, I have on my calendar to expect the next TR installment of more successful El Cap Solo Training. I can't wait to see.
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John Mac
Trad climber
Littleton, CO
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Mar 20, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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I personally wouldn't say that your El Cop Solo trip went badly at all. It was a learning experience and when soloing its not unusual to get head butted.
For example, I driven to Zion several times over the last few years with grandiose plans and ending up not getting up anything at all. Each time I try to just learn from it, get up earlier in the morning and hit the treadmill a bit more, put the topo back up in my cube at work, block out the time off and try again.
Being stubborn really helps!
Don't give up on your dream to solo el cap (it's still on my hit list as well), and just be realistic that its going take some time to get there. The best part is that you're already started.
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
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The difficulty of climbing elcap, solo or otherwise, increases exponentially the closer you actually get to the rock. At home... no problem. In the cafe... no problem. At the bridge... starting to look like it might not be so easy. At the base... well it doesn't seem like it was such a good idea. Always haul your gear to the base after you have fixed a pitch or two. By then you will know if it is really working for you.
Anyway you had a memorable time of it and that is all that counts... it is for you to enjoy, reflect upon, suffer or smile. The Captain is a great teacher and one can always learn something of value from him.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 04:24pm PT
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Thank you Tom. You are on the money !!!
Cracko
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 20, 2009 - 04:25pm PT
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"Always haul your gear to the base after you have fixed a pitch or two. By then you will know if it is really working for you."
That's really good advice from Tom. It's allways a bummer to see solo climbers doing the walk of shame with a full haulbag. If your stuff isn't up there yet it's hardly even a bail!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 05:03pm PT
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Cracko,
I really admire that you invested the time, effort and humility to give it a shot and then share with us. I have to agree with Lambone, though. It doesn't sound like things went that badly, though I don't know how much Advil you needed the morning after.
I'm 44, married, two kids, self employed, have four routes under my belt, and would be more than happy just to get another trip up the Captain. I like to think when my kids get older, both of whom climb everything they see, they'll let me jug behind them when they do NIAD or Freerider, but I'd still love to finish off Mescalito or bag Zenyatta, etc., before I become their belay slave.
Keep the dream alive!
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 06:25pm PT
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I really apprceciate Lambone's advice. He is spot on, and I will be implementing his recommendations!. For those of you who inquired as to the extent of my soreness, I would respond by saying that nothing lasted beyond the day after, and I left my Advil at home!!! Brother Jacko and I will be back in Toulomne this summer knocking off some classic routes, and if the stars align with my training, I will jump on El Cap in late summer or Fall solo. The "Magic", and a strong dose of reality, are both alive.
Cracko
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Festus
Mountain climber
Enron by the Sea
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Mar 20, 2009 - 07:07pm PT
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That was such a great TR that, amazingly, it completely neutralized my drive to take the usual cheap shots like "Mix in a salad!" or "How about losing that gunny sack of pistachios you call an ass?" Aw, dammit, I just did it anyway!
Well, maybe I can make amends by sharing this photo--taken by el cap-pics if I'm not mistaken--of your actual climbing pants and shoes during this solo training. Impressive if this is you! Less so if it's only some white M.C. Hammer on a St. Patrick's day camping trip.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 20, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
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Cracko, have you picked a route to solo yet?
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Mar 20, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
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Great piece of entertainment!!!!
Best of luck with your quest.
I, personally, cannot fathom why anybody would want to scale
that big old thing, so I place you in a special category of
humanity, for which I have no name.
Thanks, very much.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 09:06pm PT
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Lambone,
No I haven't, and I'm not asking for anymore recommendations. Currently, TTrip, Dihedral, and Muir are on top of the list. However, while scanning El Cap this past week, Never Never Land caught my eye.
Cracko
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 09:11pm PT
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Jaybro,
If the Porter bros and Anderson Bros are ever to get together for a Bro climb, somebody has to step up and deal with Festusbro. While he continues to make legitimate contributions on literary threads on this site, his "punk ass" cheapshots at Crackobro could lead to violence during a future joint climbing expedition. Please intervene !!
Cracko
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Mar 20, 2009 - 09:15pm PT
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Give me the coordinates, I have a whistle on my lanyrad with my keys, I can deal with this!
though Chasbro is an f-ing lawyer, and I might have to wear out the whistle in
his direction.
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Lambone
Ice climber
Ashland, Or
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Mar 20, 2009 - 09:21pm PT
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Well, you might not be taking recomandations, but I'll give you some thoughts on your short list:
Dihedral/NeverNever- look cool, haven't done them, but I have to say the Thanksgiving Ledge exit seems like a letdown.
Muir- sick route but the first half is all slab hauling, really tough stuff. It'd be cool to solo this ala Royal style, but pack light.
Trip- Liked it, not all pitches are stellar though. The free climbing isn't really tough. I'd consider the Virginia start. Lots of gimme pitches with a few chalanging ones mixed in.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 09:24pm PT
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Jaybro,
You're killing me with the whistle on the lanyard !!! The mark of a true teacher. Is the email address on ST accurate. I sent you an E and it bounced. Thanks
Cracko
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Dirka
Trad climber
SF
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Mar 20, 2009 - 09:54pm PT
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Nice TR.
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seneca
climber
jamais, jamais pays
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Mar 20, 2009 - 11:18pm PT
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nice tr! you're an inspiration to us old guys
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Mar 20, 2009 - 11:19pm PT
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well done, getting out is half the fun!
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Crimpergirl
Sport climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Hey - isn't it time for an update on this? Can't wait to hear how it is going!
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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I recommend the Fear, and a partner, but I understand.
Munge also recommends posting in first person, but that just makes it like any other post.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2013 - 10:48pm PT
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Cracko still lives, and so does his dream!! I will retire this June after 32 years in public education, the last 20 as a middle school principal. I would like to state publically at this time that I will undertake a solo attempt of El Capitan this Summer or Fall and have already begun my training regimen. Please stay tuned for updates.
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climbski2
Mountain climber
Anchorage AK, Reno NV
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Feb 14, 2013 - 11:13pm PT
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Sweet. such an awesome bump.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
Boulder climber
bouldering
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Feb 14, 2013 - 11:18pm PT
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I would like to state publically at this time ... I was hoping for an admitted extramarital affair or something equally seedy.
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thekidcormier
Gym climber
squamish, b.c.
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Feb 14, 2013 - 11:26pm PT
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Go cracko!
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wayne w
Trad climber
the nw
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Feb 14, 2013 - 11:41pm PT
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After 20 years as a Middle School Principal climbing El Cap will be a breeze.
Have you checked out Chis Mac's 'How to Big Wall Climb?' Lots of valuable information that could help you to make things go more smoothly.
That first top out will be sweet! Look forward to reading your TR.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:00am PT
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Hey, this is pretty fun reading. As usual, I started reading thinking it was a new thread! It's current enough though. It certainly captures the desire.
Has anyone over the age of 50 soloed El Cap? Over 60 - haha!?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Feb 15, 2013 - 01:12am PT
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Is anyone over 50 dumb enough to solo El Cap?
I mean, unless ya can't get anybody to climb with ya, why?
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mcreel
climber
Barcelona
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Feb 15, 2013 - 05:22am PT
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I agree that soloing El Cap should be a stroll in the park compared to 20 years as a middle school principal. How are the hours on the Stairmaster going?
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:07am PT
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boy am I envious!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 15, 2013 - 10:52am PT
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Cracko, drop me a line if you need any tips.
You'll be the oldest person to solo an El Cap route when you succeed, btw.
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Don Paul
Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
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Feb 15, 2013 - 11:03am PT
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"oldest person to solo el cap" - now there is something to look forward to later in life. Anyone can break this record if they just wait long enough.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Feb 15, 2013 - 11:21am PT
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Go Cracko;.....from out of the ashes Cracko rises like a Phoenix........(Let's go climbing and get your ass fit....let's go!)........I retired...then went back to work in a 3rd grade class for 2 months;.....next week I retire AGAIN!.............yeeehoooooooooooo for both of us!
Let's go get some more tatoos too......
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 15, 2013 - 11:39am PT
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"oldest person to solo el cap" - now there is something to look forward to later in life. Anyone can break this record if they just wait long enough
Getting old enough is the easy part!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Feb 15, 2013 - 12:32pm PT
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Mark, what is the age record for el cap solo?
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 15, 2013 - 05:14pm PT
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Past 50, any time you don't have a heart attack, and walk away alive, I'd say it's a total success even if the outcome is other than what you had planned. Sounds like you took away the right message, though: getting back in shape.
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StahlBro
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Feb 15, 2013 - 05:21pm PT
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Missed this the first time around. Great stuff.
Go git sum Cracko!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 15, 2013 - 05:53pm PT
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I'm guessing it's me at 55.
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Dirka
Trad climber
Hustle City
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Feb 15, 2013 - 06:06pm PT
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A great tale and a fine week.
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 15, 2013 - 06:16pm PT
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I'm guessing it's me at 55.
Congrats! May as well say again I liked the way Cracko captured the feeling and sense of just WANTING to play on rock, and fulfilling that with small goals at first.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 16, 2013 - 02:05am PT
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"Publically" [sic] ?!
Cracko - you have proved that you do knott have to be smart to be a schoolteacher nor a principal.
Best of luck in your success in proving that you do knott have to be smart to solo El Cap.
In fact, if you are too stupid to quit, you just might make it. It has worked for me in the past.
I'm here too on the email if you're looking for some problem-solving, feedback and debriefing.
55? Crap, I'm almost there. Someone else older really needs to solo the damn thing, so I don't have to go for the age record. Just like Dick Van Patten, I believe "Eight is enough!"
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 16, 2013 - 02:11am PT
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55 is the new scared shitless.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 16, 2013 - 10:08am PT
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I swore off soloing El Cap after Iron Hawk but recently I've been thinking fondly of it again. I have no plans right now but I'm pretty sure I'll solo El Cap again.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Feb 16, 2013 - 10:17am PT
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Good on you Cracko! Welcome to the ranks of retired getting it done climbers. I'll be in the Valley the whole month of May, perhaps are paths will cross.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Feb 16, 2013 - 10:28am PT
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Sending ascending vibes to Cracko!
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Feb 16, 2013 - 11:14am PT
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The Public Declaration of Intent is a good start.
El Cap is so f*n big. Soloing it sounds pretty epic. If it was me, I'd break with my longstanding tactic of figuring stuff out along the way and practice everything, a lot.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Feb 16, 2013 - 01:05pm PT
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The most common piece of advice I give is to go sit down with your partner, in the Meadow, or at the brewpub, with a topo of the route and go over every pitch, anchor and bivy. Talk about EXACTLY how you are going to do EVERYTHING.
I can't tell you how many times I've seen parties trying to communicate over the raging wind trying to figure something out.
No joke, in 1977, when Max and I did the Mescalito, we didn't yell a single call in all if the 5.5 days on the route, we simply KNEW what the other guy was doing.
If you wait to get up on the climb to figure something out, your chances of success go way, way, down.
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Feb 16, 2013 - 06:55pm PT
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Get some Cracko---for everyone else who wants it as bad as you do
Eat that elephant one bite at a time
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McHale's Navy
Trad climber
Panorama City, California & living in Seattle
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Feb 16, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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Eat that elephant one bite at a time
Bev Johnson described her solo of the Dihedral wall in 1977 that way - perhaps you know that Hobo_Dan. It truly is an opportunity to enjoy an endless string of placements and moves.
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Cracko
Trad climber
Quartz Hill, California
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2013 - 03:03pm PT
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Thanks for the input and encouragement. Time to stop talking about it and start preparing. I'm moving to the Isolation Chamber !!
Cracko
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xtrmecat
Big Wall climber
Kalispell, Montanagonia
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Feb 17, 2013 - 03:15pm PT
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Go for it. I am 52 currently, and planning to solo it. Age matters, but it's still just an elephant. Stab, cut, chew.
Burly Bob
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E.L. "One"
Big Wall climber
Lancaster, California
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I would like to thank Pete, Tom and Mark for their willingness to help an old man out and give me some solid advise on my El Cap solo plans. After 32 years in education, my last day will be June 28th. My original plans were to jump on El Cap in early July. After my mentors repeatedly asked, WTF are you thinking?, I came to my senses. I am now planning on getting on the Captain in early October, two weeks after I compete in my final
50 and over Men's Fastpictch Softball National Championship in Carson City.
I will be in Yosemite May 20-26 to jump on some El Cap pitches for training. I will now have the time to get in some serious climbing over the summer in preparation for my Fall ascent. I'm 60 years old, but I am giddy as a middle schooler !!!!!
Cracko
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Great thread, I anxiously await an update on your training and progress. I'm 46, a fireman with 7 years to retirement and don't think I can wait that long to finally get up the big stone. I am making plans to do New Dawn with an old time climbing partner who I used to climb with up at Williamson Rock until he moved away 15 years ago. I just got in contact with him a few months ago after not talking with him in 15 years and we are each training for our assault on New Dawn, he in Colorado and me here in the climbing capital of the world, Burbank. It's been a fun goal and has been really healthy mentally for me to get back out there climbing.
Good luck and keep us posted.
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Thanks for the sweet ride Cracko!
You are not alone......
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Gerg
Trad climber
Calgary
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"Dumbass gumby……..gonna cost the taxpayer big if he gets hypothermic fifteen feet up NA Wall !!"
LOL
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