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Peter Puget
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2002 - 01:25pm PT
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AH sorry I spaced out the 5.12 part, Pinky is .11 Pretty close to 5.12 and I think harder than some "12s" is Torque Converter. I'd agree with the Karl's recomends too. Fish crack aint too grand but Cringe rocks. Honestly the .11s mentioned are so darn cool that trying to hit a bunch of 12s for the sake of the rating doesn't seem worth it.
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Super_Star
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2002 - 01:45pm PT
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Thanks Peter, that's good advice. I would tend to agree that there seems to be more good 11's than 12's, however, I consider the valley to be the ultimate crucible for testing one's abilities. I can't consider myself a 5.12 climber untill I've done one in Yosemite....just a complex I have.
Brutus, thanks for the suggestion, perhaps I'll give it a try. Has anyone tried the Alien finish on the rostrum? Is that thing brutal on the fingers or is it NTB?
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desk jockey
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2002 - 06:04pm PT
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Crimson Cringe is good, however it is also one of those 5.11's that gets a 5.12 rating.
Tales of Power, I guess is a 5.12-, so it does qualify as a 5.12, and it's so goo.
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Duh Judge
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2002 - 01:03pm PT
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nothing personal Super star, but redpointing doesn't count. You can't consider yourself a Valley 5.12 climber until you have onsighted 5.12.
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Judge #2
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2002 - 01:11pm PT
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...and none of that pre-placed gear crap either!!!! That's sport climbing.
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old guy
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 3, 2002 - 09:52pm PT
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brutus.. you get troll points..
yea. bad ass mama. that's on everybody's tick list.
ditto owl roof. what'd you say? not toooo steep?
ya shoulda added, er.. not too WIDE?
snicker.
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Super_Star
Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2002 - 10:34am PT
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Pre-placed gear!?!?! What, do you think I'm from Boulder or something?!?! I'd vote Republican before I preplaced gear on a trad route, that's heresy!
Yeah, I wouldn't call myself a "Valley 5.12 climber" unless I could on-sight at that grade, but at least if I redpoint something I can say I climbed a Valley 5.12...see the difference?
Is Crimson Cringe really 165' long? So I would need two ropes if my partner can't follow? Do you think anyone would mind if I added a convenient three-bolt lowering anchor at 100'?
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Dan
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2002 - 01:42pm PT
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why don't you bolt the whole thing?
then you dont have to carry your heavy rack all the way from boulder?
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Dan
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2002 - 01:49pm PT
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The Reid book doesn't have enough beta?
What is this? Supertopo?
I want a valley twelve so i can say i got a valley 12, but it has to have a lot of hands, but not too much fingers, and i hate smearing, unless it is solid stemming. edges are good, but not too sharp. it has to be within '36 of my car.
can anyone help?
can i pay chris to design a guidebook just for me?
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Super_Star
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2002 - 03:42pm PT
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Hey Dan, that's just what I'm looking for too! It sounds like you and me would be good partners, wanna hook up?
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zach
Intermediate climber
taquitz/suicide rock california
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 4, 2002 - 04:48pm PT
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WHATS THE DEAL WITH REDPOINTING THE THING.LEAD THAT F*#KER ON SIGHT.WHY CLIMB SOMETHING YOU CANT DO "OLD SCHOOL".NO HANGS OR PRE PLACED GEAR,IF YOU FALL LOWER DOWN AND START OVER.YOU DIDNT SEE TOBIN AND THE BOYS RED POINTING BACK IN THE DAY.AND THEY WERE IN E.B.'S,SWAMIS,AND FIRING IN HEXES!KEEP CLIMBING REAL!!!!!!
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John
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 5, 2002 - 06:36pm PT
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I agree with mike, Tales of Power. It is one of the coolest cracks in the valley and WWWAAAAAAYYYYY harder than seperate reality.
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Super_Star
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2002 - 12:19pm PT
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Hey Zach, not to diss on the Stone Masters, 'cause if it wern't for them, we'd all still be aid climbing, BUT, think about the yo-yo tactics: You bring eight guys to the route and take turns pushing the rope up the route until finally you have a toprope on 95% of the climb, then you walk up and "send" it in on-sight, lead, from the ground, no rehearsal style(?). Maybe they should have considered "redpointing". That was the accepted style of the time, so that's what they did, but times have changed. I think "redpointing" in the current sense is an "improved" style, and more valid than yo-yoing. In fact, that was Alan Watts' and the other Smith climbers' reason for departing from the yo-yo style.
Obviously, walking up and on-sighting something with no beta is the best style. But what if I don't get the on-sight? Does that mean I never get to try the route again because anything else would be poor style?
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dufas
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2002 - 12:51pm PT
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for a sport with no rules, you all have a bunch of them. why do you care if some boulder dude wants to do a 5.12 in whatever style he wants? so he red-points it, and then says he red-pointed a 5.12 yosemite finger crack. so what?
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smith rock wanker
Novice climber
upper gorge
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2002 - 05:06pm PT
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At a certian point, ethics are for anal retentive zealots. its fun to work, and then redpoint, a crack climb as well as a sport climb. fun is good right? have fun super star.
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faller
Novice climber
la
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2002 - 06:44pm PT
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On the subject of onsighting vs. redpointing. What's the big deal if you fall on the climb? Doesn't a climber who attempts climbs above his ability demand more respect than one who "onsights" a climb? If you don't fall, then your not pushing yourself hard enough.
I'll agree though, that hangdogging is bullsh#t. If you rest on gear, then your an aid climber. But falling can be great fun! I'm always laughing at the bottom of a fall.
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eb
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2002 - 07:00pm PT
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"Check out some of the pitches on the Salathe headwall. Worth the hike." Hike to the top of the Captain to rap down and climb? Last I checked there was this rad way to get up to the Salathe headwall that involved all sorts of awesome climbing. Jesus, if I could climb 12 trad I'd be raging all over El Cap and Half Dome, sending long stuff, not dinking around in my guidebook for 100-foot splitters. There's only one Captain--check it out if you're in the Valley.
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Please read this by wall kid
Intermediate climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2002 - 07:10pm PT
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Have you ever climbed in yosimite before? A 5.12 here is 5.13d back east I'd be very carefull about what you get on to. But since you ask Dyno Hum 5.11d on camp 4 wall and aid route on swan slab 5.11b.
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Super_Star
Advanced climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2002 - 11:12am PT
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Yeah, I been to Yosemite before, and I've done some long routes. You may have heard of them...one is called "astroman", and I did one called "the nose" and "salathe wall" have you heard of those? As I said in a previous post...I will not have a good partner with me, so I can't just get on Hall of Mirrors! I need something close to the ground...if you're going to rant about my posts, at least read all of them so you know what's going on. Otherwise, you have have no frame of reference...you're like a child who walks into to the room in the middle of a movie and wants to know what's happening!
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please
Novice climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2002 - 02:25pm PT
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don't you guys know a troll when you see one. Come on, this one reeked from the get go. Do us all a favor, and quit feeding this kids frenzy. No more posts, he will never climb a 12 in the valley, and has no intention to
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