What's a good Yosemite 5.12

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Super_Star

Advanced climber
Topic Author's Original Post - Oct 1, 2002 - 10:28am PT
I'm coming to the valley in a few weeks and I want to try to red point a trad 5.12 while I'm there...any suggestions? I'm looking for a "classic" trad pitch. I already know about Crimson Cringe and Separate Reality. Crimson Cringe looks awesome, I might try that, but I kind of think Separate Reality is more of a party trick than a "classic" trad pitch. Thanks!
Old and slow

Novice climber
Sous le toit
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 10:40am PT
Check out some of the pitches on the Salathe headwall. Worth the hike.
spot

Novice climber
newark, NJ
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 12:09pm PT
you could lead bachar-cracker.
Peter Puget

Novice climber
Washington
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 12:18pm PT
One of my fav's is Pinky Paralysis! It is only a one pitch job but really fun.
joe climber

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 01:00pm PT
People have led Cookie Monster on trad gear.


Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 01:52pm PT
Yah... Cookie Monster is a great trad if you ignore the bolts.
super_star

Advanced climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 03:45pm PT
Yeah, but then it's like 12c r/x...I'm not that much of a super-star. Besides, I want a crack climb, not a lieback. Has anyone done Fish Crack? Is it good? mostly fingers eh?

I won't have a really good partner with me, so I need something I can just crag that's nice and convenient. Thanks
Brutus

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 04:14pm PT
Owl Roof.
I'd recommend Bad Ass Momma but it's only like 11d.
KidRock

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 04:21pm PT
A good warm-up for your 5.12 would be "Ahab". It a short walk from the car to ElCap base and it's only 5.10b.
fs

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 04:26pm PT
or, since you'll be at the cookie, just jump on the Twilight Zone. You'll cruise this one as it's only 10d.
poseur

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 04:44pm PT
Energy Crisis, although a lowly 11d, if you have enough cams it is an easy pinkpoint.
radical

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 06:07pm PT
CAn't speak much for the 5.12's. But the North FAce of the Rostrum is the best thing I have ever climbed. The 11c was very hard for me, but if you onsight 5.12 you should be able to cruise it, and as 5.11c goes it is not that bad. The 5.11b hand pitch has bomber hands the whole way, and is just endurance. Wish that pitch was on the ground.
There are also some 5.11 b bolted routes at church bowel that are nice for there grade, and a great onsight possibility.
Mo Fo

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 06:37pm PT
Yo Super, get a guidebook. You know, the one that says YOSEMITE on it. What kind of a super_star are you asking us to do your research for you.
SkeptiK

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 06:58pm PT
Yeah, like someone who climbs 5.12 trad would actually ask what route to do on this website. And the name Super_Star?? I'm calling bumbling gumby out for a little trolling on this one...

And no you don't get the "5.12c" grade if you lead Cookie Monster on gear.
desk jockey

Intermediate climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 07:24pm PT
Well...Cookie Monster isn't 5.12, try 11+, and as far as leading it on gear, there is no way in heck that it would be r/x. Have any of you knuckle heads even done that route? There is a perfect crack there, those bolts don't need to be there. Most people would agree that Fish Crack isn't 5.12, neither is Seperate Reality. Why don't you do Chingando, that thing is spectacular. I think it's 5.9. Probably one of the best pitches in the Valley.
5.13 leader

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 08:09pm PT
Cookie monster had a bunch of pitons in it when Kurt Smith first lead it. So if you really want to do it trad bring a rack of pins and skip the bolts.
mike

Novice climber
ca
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 1, 2002 - 08:15pm PT
Tales of Power!!!!!!!!!!!
Karl Baba

Novice climber
Yosemite
Oct 1, 2002 - 08:43pm PT
Just do the cring, it's everything you're looking for. You can fool around on fish crack while you're there. It's getting a bit cooler these days, otherwise I'd suggest, if you dont want to do the whole Rostrum, hike down to the ledge in the middle and do the 11c on the regular, the 11d of Blind Faith, and the 11c of Kaukulater. Major classics but no 5.12 glory. Red Zinger is light for the grade but is a major classic as well 11d.

We're all light anyway, forget 5.12 and climb something awesome.

Peace

Karl
Super_Star

Advanced climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2002 - 10:57am PT
Yeah, I have the guidebook, but Don Reid ain't very specific when it comes to route descriptions.
Case in point, page 78:

"RIDE THE LIGHTNING 5.12A**"

What the hell am I supposed to get from that? Is it jamming? is it fingers/hand? mostly face climbing? is it any good? So I was thinking, maybe there's someone out there who has done some of these things and would recommend one.

The times I've been to the valley I've been doing long routes, so I haven't had a lot of time to check out all the crag areas. If someone wanted me to recommend a 5.12 in Little Cottonwood, near my home, I would have a bunch of suggestions. Right Trinity is a good endurance pitch, but not too much jamming, The Coffin Roof is good jamming, but painful and sandbagged, etc. etc..

You know, you don't even have to have climbed them to know how they go. I've seen pictures of the Cringe and Fish crack, and I can see that they're splitter cracks...whereas cookie monster is obviously a lie back.

Finally, I would never post this topic under my real name, for fear of being called out for arrogance by the super-topo-web-nazis. Just imagine that I'm some guy sitting in a cubicle who honestly wants beta, but knows better than to post a "serious" question like this with my real name. If you can help, thanks, if you can't, write some silly comeback and we'll all have fun laughing at it.

Thanks -SS
Brutus

Novice climber
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 2, 2002 - 01:08pm PT
> If someone wanted me to recommend a 5.12 in Little
> Cottonwood, near my home, I would have a bunch of
> suggestions. Right Trinity is a good endurance pitch,
> but not too much jamming, The Coffin Roof is good
> jamming, but painful and sandbagged, etc. etc..

Hmmm. My first recommendation for LC would have been Trench Warfare. With that, I'll stand by my original suggestion. Warm up on Bad Ass Momma, then do Owl Roof. Both somewhat steep, fantastic jamming, relatively splitter, 1-2 pitches, mellow approaches.

Brutus
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