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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 18, 2009 - 05:49am PT
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Slight thread drift - here are a couple of guys climbing Homeworld, April 2008:
p3-4
p5
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2009 - 10:24am PT
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Thanks Clint, great photos, send away, please.
Homeworld is a cool route as well. I remember the seventh pitch being quite good and the sixth a bit scary.
Jeff
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tiki-jer
Trad climber
fresno/clovis
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Mar 18, 2009 - 10:49am PT
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Nice Job!
We'll see ya in SEKI.
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 18, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
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Thanks for setting new routes. There is references to Homeworld route as route in the middle
But , I do not see "Home world" in Reid book (1994) . How is new routes located in references to roots which in the Book ( Stonequest for instance)?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Mar 18, 2009 - 04:28pm PT
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Alexey,
8. Woody Woodpecker FA: Ron Skelton, Greg Magruder, 1/1985
9. Sawyer Crack FA: Bruce Price, Jerry Anderson, 4/1972
10. Flying in the Mountains FA: Sean Jones, Robbie Bouchard, 2005
11. Homeworld FA: Sean Jones, Robbie Bouchard, 2005
12. Dangling Chads FA: Jeff Scheuerell, Ron Skelton, 3/2009 [to be added]
15. Eagle's Eyrie FA: Ron Skelton, Greg Magruder, 4/1988
from
http://www.stanford.edu/~clint/yos/update.htm
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Mar 19, 2009 - 12:38am PT
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Cool photos - looks like fun rock
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2009 - 12:19pm PT
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Alexey,
This should help. The letters match the Reid topo (p26).
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Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
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Mar 19, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
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Tork and Clint, thank you
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jsb
Trad climber
Bay area
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Mar 19, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
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Hey Tork,
Nice work! My girlfriend and I were climbing at Parkline on Sunday for the first time ever on Stonequest. I think we saw you guys up on the rock, and possibly in the parking lot.
That Ron Skelton story is great. I was super impressed by what I imagined the first ascent of Stonequest must have been like and that's only 5.8/5.9! I was kind of spooked just repeating the route with a topo. it's steeper than it looks and some of those bolts are pretty far up there. :) I can't imagine heading up there with a bolt kit or whatever... spectacular climb!
 Justin
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 19, 2009 - 02:38pm PT
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Thanks Justin.
Sorry we didn't stop to talk. I like talking to folks that go up there. I like hearing about what they have done up there and turning them on to a bunch of stuff that's not in the guide. There are several well protected 5.7-5.9 routes up there as well as harder stuff.
Stone Quest was just another day in the park for Ron. He probably put it up faster than most people climb it now. That guy is kinda fearless. I've caught him on a couple big falls and belayed him several times where I was so glad he didn't. He's a great guy to boot.
Jeff
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
above the play park
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Apr 16, 2009 - 01:47am PT
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Hoots and I climbed Woody Woodpecker the other day...nice crack climbing. Then you keep going up a mungy corner to (surprise!) some nice bolts to get down Thanks for those, whomever did the work.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Apr 16, 2009 - 02:02am PT
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Rhodo-Router,
> Then you keep going up a mungy corner to (surprise!) some nice bolts to get down Thanks for those, whomever did the work.
Alexander Cooper and I may have placed one of those bolts in February 2004, but I didn't seem to write up a trip report. It would have been a 3/8" wedge stud with a Fixe hanger and 2 lap links if it was one of ours.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 16, 2009 - 10:13am PT
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Sawyer Crack is a nice splitter as well. I like it better in fact, due to a straight line. I took one #5 Camalot.
Not sure who, but I think someone did the left side. Just from looking I would guess 11+ or 12. You never know though, there could be some great holds right where it looks hard , or not.
Another nice crack is Whoreny Toad 5.9 just to the right of Eagles Eyrie. Nice new bolted anchor on top of a very comfy ledge on pitch 2. P1 is short with one move that is protected by a bolt to an anchor below the crack. P2 is long and fun, mostly hands, with the crux right at the end.
Clint, I added a bolt to that anchor years ago with Bill Alexander. He did say bolts though. Maybe you guys added the second. Or maybe whomever bolted the face ,5.10ish, that leads up to the base of the Cockshead fixed up that anchor as well. There is an anchor on the ledge below the left side of the Cockshead and one on top of the left side route, right above the beak.
Jeff
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 23, 2010 - 03:17pm PT
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Jeff,
Here's what Bob and I climbed on that sunny weekend:
We'll be back when the sun comes out, to see what the rains have cleaned off.
Is there a name for the new climb you did with Mony, just left of Parkline Pinnacle?
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 23, 2010 - 03:55pm PT
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Jeff,
What was the .9 we did the day we rebolted that thing and what is the thing we rebolted?
kev
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Feb 23, 2010 - 04:26pm PT
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Just want to say thanks to Tork, he has done a ton of work out there at Parkline. Fixing old rusty mank and putting up several fun climbs. Climbed several of his newer routes last week. I had a chance to climb in the warm sun in February. :)
Sorry no pics! I've been lazy about the camera lately.
Steve
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 23, 2010 - 04:30pm PT
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Steve,
Are you working or climbing right now?
kev
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spyork
Social climber
A prison of my own creation
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Feb 23, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
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Not working Kev. Not climbing, its raining out there. So, I am doing nothing! Working on getting a job, not doing so great at it thus far!
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kev
climber
A pile of dirt.
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Feb 23, 2010 - 06:49pm PT
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It's not raining thursday so you should talk to Jeff! I've got to work most weekdays for the next month or so (I emphasize most not all).
I'll email you when I get a chance...
kev
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Brother John
Big Wall climber
In a cave right next to the tool shack
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Feb 23, 2010 - 06:54pm PT
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I've always wondered who's lines those where. I've stood at the base wondering what the FAist was doing. Thanks for the effort and I'll be taking a whack at it this spring.
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