Ten years in the making...route finally finished

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Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 17, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
Yea, after ten years of being lazy and eight different partners I finally finished one of my lines to the top(kinda) on Parkline Sunday. Dangling Chads 5.11b/c or 5.10aC2. Kinda cool up there on kinda top.

Rack is a set of cams 00C3 to #3C4 and stoppers with extra in the smaller range. 60m rope

Rap the route with 2 ropes or rap Home World, between Flying in the Mountains and Dangling Chads, with 1 60



Been seeing more people down there these days, mostly on Stone Quest.

Jeff
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Mar 17, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
Congratulations!!

Nice photo too.

Ten Years in the making...You could've called it Ten Years After.

Sometimes slow cooked is best anyway.
Dingus Milktoast

climber
Mar 17, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
Nothing like finishing a long standing project eh?

Congrats!

Now you need a NEW ONE?

DMT
scooter

climber
fist clamp
Mar 17, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
Nice job! Is that the route you were working on with D.H. a few years back?

Patrick
Flanders!

Trad climber
June Lake, CA
Mar 17, 2009 - 01:38pm PT
Good job Jeff, looks like a nice line. Are you amiable to guiding some old dads up your route? Can't wait for the Valley season to begin.
All the best to you and Mony


Doug
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 17, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
kewl new stuff to go check out.






Couldn't thank Ron S enough for turning me onto Stone Quest that day we forget the rack. Good line.


Earlier that morning...
"Dude, what do mean 'where is the rack?' very funny, hahahah, ok, now where's the rack?"
Doug Robinson

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Mar 17, 2009 - 01:46pm PT
Congratulations Tork.

Ten years is nuthin'.
I've been staring at that wall for 50, and never even walked up there. Now you're igniting my dreams.

Good on ya.

'nother Doug
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2009 - 03:24pm PT
Dingus, I wish (not really) that were the case, you know how it is.

Yah Patrick, Dave and I did the first pitch and started the second. The second ended up being harder than we thought it would be plus we needed more than one hook, so we went down with plans to return. Dave was kinda busy so I ended going back with Ron Skelton a bit later.

Reminds me of a story.


The first time Ron got on it, we were just there climbing other stuff. At the end of the day we decided to do the first pitch of the route I started with Dave. Ron liked the look of the second pitch so he asked to lead up to our high point. I was curious to know how hard he thought the pitch was so far, so I agree. Ron works his way up this tips(for normal people) corner without to much fuss. I don't know how he does it, he's got big hands. Then the crack gets really thin, then ends all together. This was my high point where I stood on a knife blade leaned way right and drilled a bolt.Ron gets to the bolt and checks out the next few thin face moves that cross the bolt to the right. I'm thinking he will climb past a couple of feet then come back and lower back down. But Noooooooooooooooooooooo, he keeps climbing. We have no bolt kit and there is no carck to be seen for about 35- 40 feet. He traverses right, my hands start sweating. He continues right and gets to a rest stance where if we had a bolt kit a sane person would start drilling. But, as Ron has no drill he can't. He's 25+ feet out, the moves to that point were 5.11 so reversing them would be tough and scary and a fall would be long and slam him hard into the corner. I start feeling a little sick not knowing what he's going to do. The last thing I wanted was for Ron, who at the time must have been about 60, to get hurt. My hands could barely grip the rope I was sweating it so bad. Rons not even phased. He decides to keep climbing. He continues up and right where he finds a thin crack not visable from below. He wiggles in a nut and clips his rope in. Thank God! I relax. He then tells me the nut is crap. Oh shit! Back to sweating.I need to chalk up at this point. Ron, still showing no sign of remorse, moves on. A few feet higher he get a TCU which he says is so-so. Well at least he has two peices I think to myself. He continues on about five feet above the cam and contomplates the next moves. It's about another six or seven feet to a visable crack. He fiddles around a bit then decides not to risk the fall on his questionable pro. He climbs back down to the so-so cam. I'm not sure what he will do, lower off the cam and nut? He then removes the cam steps down to the crap nut and says take. Take? What? Take? But the nut? You said the nut was crap? Oh sh#t, that nut pulls it's over dude.Ron, unphased, "lower me".

To be continued
Anastasia

climber
Not here
Mar 17, 2009 - 03:26pm PT
Thanks for making it happen! What will you name it?
nick farley

climber
bishop
Mar 17, 2009 - 03:44pm PT
Way to go Jeff! You da man.

I'm going to have to come back to Cali just to have a look. See you in the fall.

Cheers,

Nick
troutboy

Trad climber
Newark, DE
Mar 17, 2009 - 03:45pm PT
Thanks for making it happen! What will you name it?


I'm gonna go out on a limb and guess "Dangling Chads" :-)

TS
nutjob

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Mar 17, 2009 - 04:21pm PT
Jeebus, that got me all sweaty-mitted just reading it!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Mar 17, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
Nice! Congrats on finishing it off.

Link to Flying in the Mountains thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=802889
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 17, 2009 - 08:29pm PT
dang Tork great read on Ron's story...

what happened then? :)



Ron the face climbing meister strikes again!

Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
Thanks all, I was psyched to get er done. It's a fun route especially this time of year.

Doug N., would love to get up there with you. Who's the old guys you want me to guide?

Nick, great to hear from you! Hope to see you in the fall.


Well Munge,there's not a lot left to tell, the crap nut obviously held as Ron is still alive, kicking, and sending hard. But the whole time lowering him, I kept envisioning it popping and our old friend flying past me. After returning to the ground, Ron was psyched to come back another day with a bolt kit and finish the pitch. So we make a plan to return.

Not sure how much time goes by but we eventually meet up on some planned morning in the turnout at the start of the approach. We get packed up and start heading up the gully. After hiking up a hundred feet or so, I remember we needed hooks. I tell Ron I forgot to put em in my pack but I can run back to my car and grab em. Well as I'm sure you can guess, if you know Ron, he says "naw, I won't need em, I'm gonna get to such in such spot where I'll be able to slap in a bolt. Then continue across the traverse and put another one in at such n such stance." "Are you sure?" I ask. "Oh Yea." We continue to the start and I lead the first pitch and bring Ron up. Ron then fires back up the tips corner, I still don't know how, but this time ready to drill. He clips my bolt, styles the crux moves to the right, and gets to said such n such spot where he's gonna drill a bolt. Guess what? Yep, such n such spot isn't cutting it for a drilling stance and he needs a hook which again we don't have. Here we go again,sweat sweat. Ron has to do the entire traverse without a bolt again. Luckily, one can camp at the stance at the end of the traverse and he was able to get one in and then finish up the pitch.

Then it was my turn to follow the pitch and while doing so, totally AMAZED that Ron not only lead that traverse without a bolt, he did it twice. Oh, and we added two more bolts to the pitch on our way down and I always keep a hook in my bolt kit.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2009 - 12:18am PT
I added homeworld to the photo. You can get off all three of these routes by rapping Homeworld with one 60m rope.

Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Mar 18, 2009 - 12:36am PT
Tork,
Thanks for posting the topo and telling us the story. Wish I could climb 5.11, I'd check it out.
Zander
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 18, 2009 - 12:51am PT
Zander, you can aid the crux pitch no prob, but you need to do two hook moves to the second bolt, then tension across, Then it's easy aid through the rest of the pitch. The fourth pitch is 10a.

Jeff
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Mar 18, 2009 - 02:16am PT
great finish to the story!!!


and awfully generous to post that topo, thx!
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Mar 18, 2009 - 03:45am PT
hey there tork... say, wow, i sure aint a rock climber, but i really CAN appreciate your hard work and tenacity to tackle your chore and reach your goal!...

i just love big projects and way they make you feel good when done doing a good hard job... :)

congrats... and so much more...

say, i really love the picture and the way the route is highligted so... it looks really speical that way, kind of like christmas lights, but all orange...

very good job, even though, haha, i wouldn't know what i'm talking about, as to what MADE it such a good job... :)
(though care and foresight and caution, all would come into play, i would think)...

but you know... one just has these gut feeling about stuff... and i am so very happy for your goal being met...

god bless... and thanks for sharing you "baby" here with all that will really love it...

:)
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