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| Messages 1 - 60 of total 60 in this topic |
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 14, 2009 - 06:13pm PT
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This superb follow-up To Royal's El Cap Commentary made me want to go and do these routes. These guys were the nazz from where I was peeking over the fence. Porter, Burton, Sutton and Jimmy Dunn were and still are my Silver Age Heroes. Here is their scene. From Mountain #44 July/August 1975.
I love that last paragraph and have used it in some of my writing, 1975 no less!!!
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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Mar 14, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
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The Shield. Its a longtime dream of mine. To be on that thin crack in that immense sweep of golden perfect granite, suspended between heaven and earth. Is it as breath taking as it looks?
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Mar 14, 2009 - 06:51pm PT
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Great stuff, thanks Steve! I had never read that before. It was a bit painful to read - if you can make the photos 700 or even 800 pixels wide, they will be a lot easier to read on McTopo. Kinda hard with the small print, eh?
And they misspelled "supersede"...
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 19, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
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I always liked those two photos of Pratt on the Shield, taken by Steve. Did any of the other "golden agers" do an early ascent of any of the "new wave" routes on El Capitan in the 1970s?
Bump. Plus it has not one but two photos of Charlie Porter, although neither seems likely to be what's needed.
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 19, 2009 - 11:50pm PT
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Steve, met you and Mimi at the Nose Reunion. Some of the controversy recently about not enough appreciation of the true climbing threads leads me to this comment. I am remiss at telling you how much I enjoy all the great climbing threads you post here on the Taco.
I am new here and have much to learn and most of the time feel inadequate and/or embarassed to comment on your posts as most that do are real climbers. Mi be jess learning.
But I read just about all you post and love the history, pictures et al. I love Mimi's comments whenever she posts....super great person....please tell me I haven't muffed her name.....tired. Peace and Joy, Lynne
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Mar 20, 2009 - 12:55am PT
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This great thread does need a bonafide bump. Let's have an inspiring comment...or two. Took some work to post it .... now we appreciate it. Peace, lynne
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 20, 2009 - 10:48am PT
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I can't believe it's a bump.....Thanks Lynne!
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Mar 20, 2009 - 11:07am PT
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Thanks steve, never met burton during his climbing days, but see him here, when he has building projects going in town, a very mellow guy.
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Wonder
climber
WA
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Mar 21, 2009 - 11:21pm PT
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Drunk & trollin'.
Great post Steve. Hey, you got any pics of the ol' Lincoln with the suicide doors they use to drive around in. A family of 12 in India could live in that mother.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 21, 2009 - 11:44pm PT
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My best friend back in grade school had one and I have been very close myself. Had I ever moved Magnus Construction down to Olympia, an electric blue one with lumber racks and some longhorns on the front seemed inevitable! LOL Company car with wet bar, of course!
No problem hiding a posse in that rig. I dearly hope some pictures are still around.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 22, 2009 - 04:52am PT
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Come to think of it, as I try to read that print, this article was "beta" for when I climbed the Trip. I remember the part where Robbins actually got down off right.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2009 - 11:49am PT
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For the love of air and that headwall shot, the Trip was my first outing back in 77 or so. It was not der Golden Stone and I developed an immediate distaste for the diorite. Plenty to do away from that shizzle!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 28, 2009 - 08:32pm PT
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Air bump!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 29, 2009 - 07:27pm PT
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Bump for climbing!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2009 - 11:02am PT
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And another.......bump!
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Double D
climber
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Thanks for posting this Steve. That article induced more damage to my Robbins wall boots than any other BITD! While some thought the "Golden Age" of big wall climbing was a by-gone era, others experienced a renaissance of new possibilities. That article hung at the balance of these two eras for sure.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 7, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
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I really like the flavor of the last paragraph. Trying like hell to soften the oncoming blow!
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Climbing dropout
Trad climber
Vancouver, BC
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The only time I met Burton, he was with Hatten and Sutton. 1978, they had just got off a freight train in Squamish and picked up their truck. I was asleep on Pysche ledge under the Chief.
Hatten pulled a chainsaw out of the back of their truck, fired it up and chased me around my car with it, laughing maniacally, in the way only he can. Then he carved gouges in the pavement with it, throwing off a tremendous spark show. Hugh calmed him down and sent me into Squamish with his money, to buy 2 cases of beer.
We had a fire under the power lines, started with kindling Hugh chopped in 2 mighty blows off of a telephone pole. His arm caught fire while pouring gasoline on the flames. It didn't really faze him much.
Hugh was very laid back. I found out later who they were, and much later on became friends with Daryl.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Bump it again for our historian extraordiare!!!!!
Yay Steve Grossman!!!!!
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Fat Dad
Trad climber
Los Angeles, CA
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I remember that article only because the libary at UC Irvine had some bound copies of Mountainin their stacks. I was still in high school and would sometimes stop by there after bouldering at the Beach and dream about doing the Captain.
I still feel really privileged to have done a couple of routes mentioned in that article--Zodiac (in '83) and the Shield ('91). I always liked that quote about how Charlie Porter had gotten inside the rurp and was looking out.
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Russ Walling
Gym climber
Vulva, Wyoming
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Burton, Sutton, Porter......
OMFG!!!!!!!!!!1111166666
B A D A S S S S S™™™™™™
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2009 - 12:43am PT
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Big Wall bump!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Jun 27, 2009 - 01:00am PT
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I had the pleasure of doing a couple new big walls with Burton (including the Giraffe, in Baja) the exact year this article was published (1975), and let me tell you, he was a remarkable force on difficult aid. No complaining, he just got out there and did it.
JL
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bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
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Jun 27, 2009 - 01:13am PT
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i remember when this ish of mountain came out. still have it. boggled and boggles my mind. here we are 34 years later. is it too late for me to get dragged up the shield?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jun 27, 2009 - 02:19am PT
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Does anyone have contact information for Steve and Hugh? I believe Hugh is somewhere in the Los Angeles area, working in construction, and the last I heard was that Steve is in Colorado. I'd like to interview them for the "Squamish climbing history" book. Send me a PM if you can help.
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Chief
climber
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Jun 27, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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Thanks for the post Steve, what a blast from the past!
That was a seminal issue, still fresh and glossy when I started climbing in the spring of 76, it was like the gospel of climbing to us fresh faced neophytes. Those guys were and still are my heroes. Hitchin to the Valley with a mountain of haul bags and doing the FA of the Mushroom at the tender age of sixteen! Climbing the Cassin wearing blue jeans over Capilene! The Warrior on North Howser! Their recreational habits off the rock are another story altogether. Do not try to out drink Hugh or Steve, in fact I wouldn't recommend drinking with either of them at all! I had the privilege of doing the PO with Steve, it was like being on a tour of Galilee with one of the Disciples. We followed right up with the FA of the Grand Wazoo on Middle. Steve solved and lead some of the hardest sections on this difficult face route proving again his mastery on the rock, aid or free. I think I still have that issue with most of the Mountain series. Feelin so nostalgic, I might have to put my beer down and go dig them out!
Perry
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Jun 27, 2009 - 01:36pm PT
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Hey Chief/Perry, are you Perry Beckham from Squamish? If so great to see you here! Been awhile, hope all is great with you!
If not, any of you northerners have contact info for him?
Peter Mayfield
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 27, 2009 - 04:56pm PT
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Anders-Hugh lives on the Eastside. Check your e-mail for his contact info. He likely has Steve's too.
Perry is the Squamish Chief since Eric Weinstein passed away.
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Chief
climber
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Jun 28, 2009 - 01:26pm PT
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Hello Peter,
Yes it's Perry from Squamish and it's good to hear from you. It's been a few years since we last crossed paths in El Portal I think. Probably last saw Hugh around that time as well.
The last reports I had on Steve were that he was still married, living in Telluride, base jumping and working on his commercial pilots license. Last rumour was that he was considering a gig flying in Africa. That was three or four years ago and with Steve, anything's possible. It would be good to find out where he is.
I watched the Wrestler last night and was reminded of Steve starting his day with 1200 mgs of Ibuprofen washed down with two Old English tall boys followed up with a five mile run. Then he was ready for coffee and cragging. Talk about hardcore.
Regards,
Perry
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 29, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
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Beckham Bump!
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Ray Olson
Trad climber
Imperial Beach, California
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Nov 29, 2009 - 10:25pm PT
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I'm amazed I missed this - thanks Steve.
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Climbing dropout
climber
BC
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Nov 30, 2009 - 01:45am PT
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Burton & Sutton wrote major chapters in the histories of Squamish and Yosemite.
Hopefully one day they show up on the supertaco to talk about it.
Can somebody give them a nudge ?
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Nov 30, 2009 - 09:25am PT
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Got word a week or so back that Sutton and Burton have been located for their signatures in the copy of Yosemite Climber that'll be up for auction to benefit Jim Bridwell. The weight of it all will make the winner quite a buff dude or ripped lass.
Thanks for posting this Steve!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2010 - 12:43am PT
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Big Wall Bump!
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Yeah! Really great thread Steve!! Cheers, MP.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 6, 2010 - 10:37pm PT
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One of my all time favorite articles!
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ryankelly
Trad climber
camp tawonga
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Good read.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2010 - 12:36pm PT
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Bump from the Drizzle!
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Dec 12, 2010 - 02:11pm PT
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That issue changed my life.
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 12, 2010 - 05:40pm PT
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Bump for the bad old days.
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mastadon
Trad climber
quaking has-been
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Dec 12, 2010 - 06:40pm PT
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Hugh Burton at a get-together at Mike White's last fall.....
Hugh Burton=BADASS!
White's party, fall 2010: not everyone that was there made it into the picture
Augie Klein, Dave Hitchcock, Mike White, Chuck Cochran, Tom Carter, Rich (?), Mastadon
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Chief
climber
The NW edge of The Hudson Bay
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Dec 13, 2010 - 12:52am PT
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mastadon,
Thanks for the photo, hi to Hugh and Augie when you see them next.
Perry
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hubcap
Big Wall climber
loveland co
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Dec 16, 2010 - 09:34pm PT
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Don't forget that badass cowboy, Chris Nelson - who is working on some first ascent photos of The End All Wall.
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Tobia
Social climber
GA
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Dec 17, 2010 - 05:19pm PT
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Glad to see that Mike White's grin is still wide; that guy could make me laugh!
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Captain...or Skully
Big Wall climber
leading the away team, but not in a red shirt!
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Dec 18, 2010 - 10:26am PT
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Gettin' bumpy out there.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2010 - 12:37pm PT
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The same Mike White that took the classic Nose In A Day photo?
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hubcap
Big Wall climber
loveland co
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Hugh on FA Mescalito, above the Seagull.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 12, 2011 - 01:09pm PT
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Nice shot hubcap! Damn does he look young...
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hubcap
Big Wall climber
loveland co
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Jul 23, 2011 - 07:49pm PT
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Yea, we were all young.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 23, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
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Got pitchers to prove it!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2012 - 10:14pm PT
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Bump...
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Feb 17, 2012 - 10:17pm PT
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Proud Lines for sure..
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 10, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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Bump..
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 03:31pm PT
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Classic bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 20, 2013 - 03:40pm PT
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Tis the season...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2014 - 09:32pm PT
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Bump for Charlie's legacy...in part.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 5, 2016 - 01:44pm PT
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Big wall bumpage...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
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Classic article bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 23, 2018 - 09:00am PT
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Fall wall bump...
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| Messages 1 - 60 of total 60 in this topic |
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