NorCal climbing appreciation thread

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drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Mar 11, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
i thought that everything that i ever said was true damnit. sh#t.

anyway - isnt land of the lost volcanic or schist type rock? is it limestone, because that is what i was talking about.

but land of the lost sounds really cool and i cant wait to check it out! i used to love the tv show on sat morn when i was a kid too. isnt there a will ferrell movie coming out soon? good sh#t.
bachar

Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
What about Marble Caves? What's that all about? Where they is?
billygoat

climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
Mar 11, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
Land of the Lost is limestone--rockclimbing.com also got that wrong. Not quite as spectacular, I mean chossy, as the Aretes, but fun stone under a bit of lichen.
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Mar 12, 2009 - 12:07am PT
wow i didnt know it was limestone, i love limestone. i am a lot more psyched then i was before. is there still potential?
tom woods

Gym climber
Bishop, CA
Mar 12, 2009 - 12:19am PT
I felt like we were trying to ignore certain areas up there, but rockclimbing.com has a section for cecilville. How's development going up there?
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
Sprocketville
Mar 12, 2009 - 12:22am PT
problem is the limestone is proabably always wet up there.
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Mar 12, 2009 - 12:23am PT
shameless plug for new nor cal bouldering book... but heh, it has two nor cal bouldering shots:

Cover: Kevin Jorgeson (photo by Jerry Dodrill)
Back Cover: Bald Rock (Photo by Chris Summit)

Roughster

Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
Mar 12, 2009 - 10:43am PT
Chris, I am interested in hearing more about this "Road Trippin' California" thing that Chris has mentioned. Is that a ST project, and if so, what are the contents?
Petch

Gym climber
Lover's Leap
Mar 12, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
here's footsteps, the best coastal climbing in cali. Lori on Seductive Mermaid 10c


Here's us cleaning Humboldt current and ride the woody at the Promintory with a gasoline leaf blower. Footsteps in the background.


Unfortunatley I don't have a slide scanner. I have a bunch of slides of other areas up there.
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Mar 12, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
to answer Mr Bachars question first - whats up with marble caves? they are frkn rad! good medium to long sport routes with cool pockets and grooves and free camping all with great views! no actually its total choss.

its briefly covered in the upcoming California Roadtrip - Nor Cal (to answer Mr Roughs question) along with Trinty Aretes (in more detail) and most of the other good Nor Cal areas from south of Yosemite north to the Oregon Border and west to the edge of the continent. its got most all of the well known classic sport, trad and bouldering. it is not from supertopo, it is too select to be a supertopo. its Tom Slaters creation with help from Steve Edwards, Marty Lewis, Me and a few others. it will be either from Maximus or self published or ??, not sure yet. but it will be frkn awesome. Tom did a really, really good job. it will be the only book currently in print for a few areas as well as a book to take on all roadtrips in cali and even a coffee table book with its many great images and intro by Royal Robbins!

http://www.summitorplummet.com
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Mar 12, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
Wow, where is this "Footsteps" place. Looks really good.

Peter


bachar

Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
D-master,

Thanks for the link. Man it's hard to find photos of Marble Caves anywhere on the internet. I saw some cool shots on the wall at Matt's Far North Climbing gym, that's why I asked. The rock looked pretty good - I think. Or is it choss? hahaha I hope you're just joking about the choss stuff....

I have no idea where it is or how to get there.
mrtropy

Trad climber
Nor Cal
Mar 12, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
I have that old Northern California Falcon guide they pulled off the market. Lots of these places are in it. Not sure of the story of the guide and why it was pulled. Anyone know the story on it.
drunkenmaster

Social climber
santa rosa
Mar 12, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
i also have that guide. it is pretty good. its a bummer it got pulled, but it did have a few big problems. my climbs at the natural bridge were all wrong among other errors. not sure exactly why it got pulled but i think maybe it was about some issues with copied info? our upcoming California Roadtrip - Nor Cal has more info to more places and with way better pics! the falcon guide had a few things that were really well done like mt lassen but other than that our book takes the cake.
Petch

Gym climber
Lover's Leap
Mar 13, 2009 - 12:02am PT
footsteps is about 10 miles south of crescent city. it was in that falcon guide. i think it got pulled because there was alot of wrong info in it.

there is a local guide out by eric chemello and paul humphreys that has all the areas and the best beta.
tom Slater

Trad climber
CA
Mar 13, 2009 - 12:46am PT
Jeez Chris, it's about time you finally told 'em about the California Road Trip guide!
Over 100 areas, over 2,000 routes...
stonewall

Sport climber
arcata, california
Mar 15, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
Hey- Here is the beta for the far norcal climbing areas.
Coast- Moonstone, N & S Houda, Ossagon to Lost Rocks: very kind!
Marble Caves- Killer euro limsetone. 50 routes from 5.10 to 5.14, 50' to 160', fall to spring best, snow in winter, simmer in summer. High quality and generally dry. Cecilville Bluffs- The best, more killer euro limestone. 50 routes from 5.9 to 5.14, severe and steep, fall to spring best, good in winter, many 5.12 and 5.13. Near Cecilville on salmon river. Underwood Mtn.- Four killer areas. Trinity aretes: 70 routes 5.10 to 5.14, shadey summer grey limestone, 50' to 220'. Castle Rock: grey limestone, 20 routes 5.9 to 5.13 50' to 160', fall to spring. Grotto: new rippin granite crag near t-retes. Bouldering, routes 5.10 to 5.13, 50 to 150' orange/black and exotic. Roost- new granite bouldering area near t-retes. Land of Lost- OPULESCANT QUARTZITE, hard to brittle, near Arcata, 40 routes 5.4 to 5.12, 40' to 100', new,fun, and popular. Buy my book at Adv. Edge or Nor. Mtn. Sup.
nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
Mar 15, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
I guess if any thread will get Petch out from under a stone it's this one.

I learned to climb while living in Arcata and the surrounding area. Lived there for nine years. I need to visit.

A shout out to Eric and Paul for a whole ton of hard work on the guide for the area:

http://www.adventuresedge.com/store/product.php?productid=28&cat=0&page=1

It'll keep you busy for a while and if you are lucky and get to know the locals you might even get turned on to one of the many secret spots.

Stonewall == Eric or Paul?

Nature == Doug - whaddup bro!?!?!
stonewall

Sport climber
arcata, california
Mar 15, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
Falcon press pulled their norcal book after they saw how much better Bigfoot Country Climbing was, guess they just couldn't compete.
nature

climber
Tucson, AZ
Mar 15, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
that's not the story, stone. least not what I heard. They pulled it before you guys published. They pulled it because of plagiarism. They ripped my work straight up.

I did manage to lay my hands on a copy before it got yanked. Thanks to Janine (sp?) at Pagan (who use to be a Humboldtian).

BTW, I have that second copy of your guide that you sent me with all sorts of corrections and what not. I need to catch up with you guys and get it your way. Rich Ludwig and Chris Thornley both reviewed it and added what they could. That guy Tim is MIA but we knew that :-)
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