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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Mar 11, 2009 - 12:27am PT
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Just got back from Far North Climbing Gym in Arcata. Great people, chill vibe. Went to Moonstone boulders - amazing spot. I was shown a lot of climbing pics of the local areas and I couldn't believe the crags up there. I wanna' go back!
I was just curious to see what kind of photos people have of climbing up there. Marble Caves looks killer. That new DVD "Spray" looks cool too. Bouldering on the beach, how can you not like that?
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AllezAllez510
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Mar 11, 2009 - 01:09am PT
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Did you check out Lost Rocks JB? It's uh-mazing.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
O a k t o w n
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Mar 11, 2009 - 01:14am PT
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" I just sent the Northern California Bouldering book to the printer. it should be available in June " (from Chris's Twitter) Thanks for the update bachar . Where's YOUR pictures !
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2009 - 01:27am PT
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If I had what you got I wouldn't want nobody to post either. Somehow I don't think the crowds are going to get there anyway...
It's a whole other "country" up there. I wuz blown...too cool.
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 11, 2009 - 01:38am PT
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There's tons of stuff up there, mostly hidden in the trees and obscured by long drives to places no one goes.
For California, there's a lot of limestone up that way, plus the granite of the alps.
I've heard of some good volcanic climbing on west of I-5 in the eastern trinities that was supposedly good, but I've not been there.
Natural Bridge, good looking long climbs in the cave, good looking short climbs elsewhere, but cursed.
Cecilville, sweet spot by way the heck out there.
castle crags, probably a lifetime of rock. I've done two routes there. Yikes! Time to hit the road.
The word is out on the trinity aretes- how many people go there?
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aa-lex
climber
Livermore
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Mar 11, 2009 - 01:47am PT
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Wow......now there's a place from my past that I barely remember!
I used to live in Arcata when I was "attending" school. All I really did was party....though I did follow some friends to all those places you had mentioned.
Used to go to Moonstone a lot, since it was so close to town. Got spanked on some Trinity Aretes limestone. And watched a friend disappear up on some hard ass looking Marble Caves route.
This was all before I climbed much, but it sure was a lot of fun. Then when I started climbing a little more seriously, I told myself I would go back. Hasn't happened yet, but hopefully one of these days.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 01:58am PT
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Verm at Goat
i finally figured out how to paste a pic on the forum. derka der, im a little slow, like the turtle that won the race sucka. look out now - its on!
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 11, 2009 - 10:16am PT
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Yeah John,
Very cool up there. I ran my "adventures in restoration" class in the area the week before your much anticipated arrival. Matt the owner let us all bivy in his great new gym for the night, he is a great friendly resource for any info on the area. Last year I hired him to tour guide my class and I to "Lost Rocks". This year I took the group to Patricks Point for some toproping.
Trinity Aretes is great, went there a few years back on July 4th. Looks like castles in the woods when you drive up on it. Not crowded, cool enough in the shade, and some stellar sport routes on limestone.
Glad you had a good time, I know the locals were really excited about your visit!
Peter
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Mar 11, 2009 - 12:10pm PT
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As long as your going to Nor Cal why not come to Southern Oregon for some serious new route activity.
We've got several (relatively) unexplored "Smith Rocks" style crags scattered this way and that across the region.
Come and check it out.....
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
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heres a few more pics of my precious nor cal..
Angie - Pelican Arete V0R - Sunset Boulders, Goat Rock
Richie - V4 - Arch Rock, Salt Point
Marcos - Life After Death V2R - Salt Point
Richie - Slither V7 - (Secret)
Sean - Sorcerer V6 - (Secret)
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 01:42pm PT
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and a couple more..
Mother Nature V1R - Hillcrest Boulders, Vacaville
Savage Oracle V8 - (Secret)
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Mar 11, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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I thought only surfing had "secret spots" bump for nor-cal surf,cold,narly,and the landlord is a bitch, but a cool vibe and rock'n waves
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Mar 11, 2009 - 01:48pm PT
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Hashbro,
Any more information on the area in So. Oregon?
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EC Does It
Social climber
Sonoma/San Diego
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Mar 11, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
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Hey Drunken, who is that climbing the "Savage Oracle?" Looks like limestone, no?
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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its me and it does look like limestone, climb like limestone and it probably tastes sort of like limestone but it is not limestone. it is proud nor cal volcanic! a little bit similar to mt st helena; pockets, piches and natural threads!!
the areas that are secret are secret because they are usually on priv prop. but some have other access issues and a few we just keep on the down low to annoy people.
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mar 11, 2009 - 03:49pm PT
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I've climbed a couple of times (1974 and 1974) at Patrick's Point State Park. some fun stuff there. I had pix, see if I can dig them up someday.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Mar 11, 2009 - 03:57pm PT
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secret spots " on the down low to annoy people" I like your style!but then again I'm a as#@&%e surfer and two-stroke powder junkie,hehehehe
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Mar 11, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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Aye and it just aint bouldering Spanky!
Auburn:
Table Rock:
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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Mar 11, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
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Easy there drunkenmaster. Some of those are waaay too private property for this site. But lets see some others.
btw, salt point is a pile. Don't bother.
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Mar 11, 2009 - 05:27pm PT
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Great rock up in Humboldt county, for sure. A new zone that is destined to become a moderate mecca is "Land of the Lost." If your up there, ask some locals about beta. All the climbs on the "Pinch Me Wall" are fun 5.8-5.10+, well bolted, but need a little bit of cleaning up. The approach beta on rockclimbing.com is somewhat bogus.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
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Thanks for the cool pics!
Let's see some of that limestone!
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 06:37pm PT
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heres some tasty Northern Cali Limestone: Richie "The Pirate" on my route Firewater (5.12a)
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 06:52pm PT
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and The Pirate on Cro-Magnon (5.12d) at Trinity Aretes.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2009 - 07:20pm PT
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Wow, that limestone looks like the "good" stuff. What would it compare to???
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 07:39pm PT
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thats not easy to answer Mr Bachar. its a lot like any good, gray, blue and gold streaked limestone id imagine. ive been to af, logan, wild iris, charelston and a few more but it seems different than all of those. at first look i thought it was a little chossy like af but then i found out it is super solid with good pockets and has its own unique molten metal "solder patches" and plates that make it extra sick! its also steep, in a shady peaceful forest and you might see bigFOOT.
Nor Cal represent YO!
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2009 - 07:58pm PT
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D-master, yeah it almost looks like some of the cliffs in France or maybe in Finale Italy. Some of it also reminds me of Yamnuska, Calgary...
Great pics. I had no idea there was so much climbing up that way.
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Talusfeeder
Social climber
SF
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Mar 11, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
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...Theres not...you would hate it. Total choss.
Don't waste the trip up here.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
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check out the solder patches at the aretes:
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
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choss patches
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Talusfeeder
Social climber
Here
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Mar 11, 2009 - 08:28pm PT
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Oh yeah...where did you say that Sorcerer problem was again?
Must've slipped my mind...
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 08:34pm PT
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Sorcerer - so good. damn if i cant tell you where. its actually at the same place trinity aretes used to be, secret.
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Talusfeeder
Social climber
Here
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Mar 11, 2009 - 08:39pm PT
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damn...I thought the Jailhouse crew was hard to crack...
Ive got my (verticle) kneepads on everyweekend now...
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Mar 11, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
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Whats the best "moderate" limestone up that way? Or is there any?
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 09:33pm PT
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depends on what you consider moderate. trinity aretes has a lot of good climbs from about the 5.10-5.11 range on up to 5.14!
none of the nor cal limestone areas have very many good climbs below 5.10.
*everyone that wants more info on Nor Cal Limestone needs to check out the BigFOOT Country climbing guide from a local store in Humboldt Co. :)
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Mar 11, 2009 - 10:34pm PT
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Moonstone and I think Houda beaches
sharp but fun
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Mar 11, 2009 - 10:40pm PT
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"none of the nor cal limestone areas have very many good climbs below 5.10."
Not true! As I said above, check out Land of the Lost--Pinch Me Wall. Needs a little cleaning up, but it has a good cluster of stuff under 5.10. But if you climb 5.10 and up, definitely go to the Trinity Aretes.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 11, 2009 - 11:02pm PT
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i thought that everything that i ever said was true damnit. sh#t.
anyway - isnt land of the lost volcanic or schist type rock? is it limestone, because that is what i was talking about.
but land of the lost sounds really cool and i cant wait to check it out! i used to love the tv show on sat morn when i was a kid too. isnt there a will ferrell movie coming out soon? good sh#t.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 11, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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What about Marble Caves? What's that all about? Where they is?
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billygoat
climber
3hrs to El Cap Meadow, 1.25hrs Pinns, 42min Castle
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Mar 11, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
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Land of the Lost is limestone--rockclimbing.com also got that wrong. Not quite as spectacular, I mean chossy, as the Aretes, but fun stone under a bit of lichen.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 12, 2009 - 12:07am PT
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wow i didnt know it was limestone, i love limestone. i am a lot more psyched then i was before. is there still potential?
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Mar 12, 2009 - 12:19am PT
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I felt like we were trying to ignore certain areas up there, but rockclimbing.com has a section for cecilville. How's development going up there?
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Dr.Sprock
Boulder climber
Sprocketville
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Mar 12, 2009 - 12:22am PT
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problem is the limestone is proabably always wet up there.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Mar 12, 2009 - 10:43am PT
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Chris, I am interested in hearing more about this "Road Trippin' California" thing that Chris has mentioned. Is that a ST project, and if so, what are the contents?
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Petch
Gym climber
Lover's Leap
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Mar 12, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
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here's footsteps, the best coastal climbing in cali. Lori on Seductive Mermaid 10c
Here's us cleaning Humboldt current and ride the woody at the Promintory with a gasoline leaf blower. Footsteps in the background.
Unfortunatley I don't have a slide scanner. I have a bunch of slides of other areas up there.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 12, 2009 - 01:04pm PT
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to answer Mr Bachars question first - whats up with marble caves? they are frkn rad! good medium to long sport routes with cool pockets and grooves and free camping all with great views! no actually its total choss.
its briefly covered in the upcoming California Roadtrip - Nor Cal (to answer Mr Roughs question) along with Trinty Aretes (in more detail) and most of the other good Nor Cal areas from south of Yosemite north to the Oregon Border and west to the edge of the continent. its got most all of the well known classic sport, trad and bouldering. it is not from supertopo, it is too select to be a supertopo. its Tom Slaters creation with help from Steve Edwards, Marty Lewis, Me and a few others. it will be either from Maximus or self published or ??, not sure yet. but it will be frkn awesome. Tom did a really, really good job. it will be the only book currently in print for a few areas as well as a book to take on all roadtrips in cali and even a coffee table book with its many great images and intro by Royal Robbins!
http://www.summitorplummet.com
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Mar 12, 2009 - 01:37pm PT
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Wow, where is this "Footsteps" place. Looks really good.
Peter
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 12, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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D-master,
Thanks for the link. Man it's hard to find photos of Marble Caves anywhere on the internet. I saw some cool shots on the wall at Matt's Far North Climbing gym, that's why I asked. The rock looked pretty good - I think. Or is it choss? hahaha I hope you're just joking about the choss stuff....
I have no idea where it is or how to get there.
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mrtropy
Trad climber
Nor Cal
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Mar 12, 2009 - 08:59pm PT
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I have that old Northern California Falcon guide they pulled off the market. Lots of these places are in it. Not sure of the story of the guide and why it was pulled. Anyone know the story on it.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Mar 12, 2009 - 09:40pm PT
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i also have that guide. it is pretty good. its a bummer it got pulled, but it did have a few big problems. my climbs at the natural bridge were all wrong among other errors. not sure exactly why it got pulled but i think maybe it was about some issues with copied info? our upcoming California Roadtrip - Nor Cal has more info to more places and with way better pics! the falcon guide had a few things that were really well done like mt lassen but other than that our book takes the cake.
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Petch
Gym climber
Lover's Leap
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Mar 13, 2009 - 12:02am PT
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footsteps is about 10 miles south of crescent city. it was in that falcon guide. i think it got pulled because there was alot of wrong info in it.
there is a local guide out by eric chemello and paul humphreys that has all the areas and the best beta.
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tom Slater
Trad climber
CA
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Mar 13, 2009 - 12:46am PT
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Jeez Chris, it's about time you finally told 'em about the California Road Trip guide!
Over 100 areas, over 2,000 routes...
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stonewall
Sport climber
arcata, california
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Mar 15, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
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Hey- Here is the beta for the far norcal climbing areas.
Coast- Moonstone, N & S Houda, Ossagon to Lost Rocks: very kind!
Marble Caves- Killer euro limsetone. 50 routes from 5.10 to 5.14, 50' to 160', fall to spring best, snow in winter, simmer in summer. High quality and generally dry. Cecilville Bluffs- The best, more killer euro limestone. 50 routes from 5.9 to 5.14, severe and steep, fall to spring best, good in winter, many 5.12 and 5.13. Near Cecilville on salmon river. Underwood Mtn.- Four killer areas. Trinity aretes: 70 routes 5.10 to 5.14, shadey summer grey limestone, 50' to 220'. Castle Rock: grey limestone, 20 routes 5.9 to 5.13 50' to 160', fall to spring. Grotto: new rippin granite crag near t-retes. Bouldering, routes 5.10 to 5.13, 50 to 150' orange/black and exotic. Roost- new granite bouldering area near t-retes. Land of Lost- OPULESCANT QUARTZITE, hard to brittle, near Arcata, 40 routes 5.4 to 5.12, 40' to 100', new,fun, and popular. Buy my book at Adv. Edge or Nor. Mtn. Sup.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Mar 15, 2009 - 03:14pm PT
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I guess if any thread will get Petch out from under a stone it's this one.
I learned to climb while living in Arcata and the surrounding area. Lived there for nine years. I need to visit.
A shout out to Eric and Paul for a whole ton of hard work on the guide for the area:
http://www.adventuresedge.com/store/product.php?productid=28&cat=0&page=1
It'll keep you busy for a while and if you are lucky and get to know the locals you might even get turned on to one of the many secret spots.
Stonewall == Eric or Paul?
Nature == Doug - whaddup bro!?!?!
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stonewall
Sport climber
arcata, california
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Mar 15, 2009 - 03:20pm PT
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Falcon press pulled their norcal book after they saw how much better Bigfoot Country Climbing was, guess they just couldn't compete.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Mar 15, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
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that's not the story, stone. least not what I heard. They pulled it before you guys published. They pulled it because of plagiarism. They ripped my work straight up.
I did manage to lay my hands on a copy before it got yanked. Thanks to Janine (sp?) at Pagan (who use to be a Humboldtian).
BTW, I have that second copy of your guide that you sent me with all sorts of corrections and what not. I need to catch up with you guys and get it your way. Rich Ludwig and Chris Thornley both reviewed it and added what they could. That guy Tim is MIA but we knew that :-)
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Patrick Sawyer
climber
Originally California now Ireland
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Mar 15, 2009 - 06:39pm PT
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Nobody has mentioned Castle Crags. Isn't that in NorCal? I first climbed there in 1973 and I think it is a fun place to hang.
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nature
climber
Tucson, AZ
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Mar 16, 2009 - 01:11am PT
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yeah, certainly it's in way norcal but it's far enough inland from the stuff Eric and Paul cover and what bachar checked out that it just doesn't get the same love.
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Disaster Master
Sport climber
Arcata, CA
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Mar 20, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
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Paul Humphrey here.
The climbing of far northern CA is so very, very nice.
As to the Falcon guide:
I am the person responsible for it getting pulled from publication. It was full of errors, traced maps from Eric Chemello's originals, loosly vieled text of mine, along with other elements of blatant disrespect.
I went to the Outdoor Retail Tradeshow in Salt Lake (in a wheelchair) and confronted the publisher. I threatened to go to the industry press if the book was not pulled that day. After a bit of heated debate, complete with a threat to sue, they yanked it.
Moral: don't piss Paul and Eric off!
Hey, to all the scattered Humboldt climbers, How the hell are y'all, and where the hell are you?
drop me a line at sticksandstones@cliffhanger.com
C-Ya!
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flying monkey
Trad climber
mount shasta, california
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Apr 13, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
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Castle Crags, is one of California's last great frontiers and it's RAD! Check out my site www.alpineaddict.com for some beta on what's going on there. It doesn't end there, as someone else mentioned there is a ton of limestone which is being developed in the area. Great bouldering and sport climbing on Mt Shasta is ripe for the picking. also numerous Basalt plugs only minutes from town and South facing walls at Castle Crags keep us climbing all year round.
I moved up here for the climbing and so far the only thing that disappoints me is the lack of climbers.
Hope to see you all up here this season.
peace,
-ian
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Apr 13, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
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thx flying monkey. I may head that way.
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bachar
Gym climber
Mammoth Lakes, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 13, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
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Marble Caves?
Come on, no one is going up there. It's like a whole other country. Plus Bigfoot is all up in that shiz and will scare the sheeple away....
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Rudder
Trad climber
Santa Rosa, CA
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Apr 14, 2009 - 02:59am PT
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Any of you guys ever look at the cliffs around Buckingham Golf and Country Club? Looks like you could traverse over from the homes up top and get into some nice 300' cliffs?
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bluering
Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
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Apr 30, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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some day I'm gonna hit those Castle Crags...the look sweet and worthy of at least a few days of work.
very under-rated and unknown.
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Laine
Trad climber
Reno, NV
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Bump for Norcal limestone! I wish there was more accessible info about the climbing in the Hayfork/Forest Glen area. I need to get a copy of the Bigfoot Climbing book.
I've only climbed at Natural Bridge, what a beautiful place!
Quite a bit more limestone around that area worth exploring plus nice swimming holes and fishing.
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