The First Portaledge On El Cap-Who,Where And When Exactly?

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Messages 121 - 140 of total 140 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Betty Uno

Mountain climber
Colorado
May 26, 2013 - 07:23am PT
Portaledge
Perfection. I can't believe it hasn't caught on as a cure for cancer or some thing or other. Hanging against a big wall, I mean.

I mean, I went to Crystal Healing Seminar. Well, if that works, and it does, wouldn't putting someone smack dab against a two thousand foot slab of a very special igneous schist with little dots of amber be effective?
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
May 26, 2013 - 09:57am PT
hanging in a portaledge in the middle of absurdity

Ha! Awesome description for a portaledge bivy!
eagle

Trad climber
new paltz, ny
Jun 4, 2013 - 06:45pm PT
i used a folding lawn chair when i did the zodiak back in 85 and i use a hammok with no spreader bar when i did the shield in 76
Spanky

Social climber
boulder co
Jun 5, 2013 - 09:50am PT
Some people are still using curry cots. I was on a free climbing trip to the valley in 2010 and we were sharing a site in camp 4 with a brit and an austrian. They wanted to do mescalito but had no ledge or hammer or much of the other specialized gear. They got what looked like headboards from housekeeping (they looked like some of the earlier pics but they weren't full length). They slung them up in camp 4 and went for it. We had bets on the bridge that they wouldn't make it but they sent it clean. We were all impressed but they got it done. May the dirtbag spirit live forever.
melski

Trad climber
bytheriver
Jun 14, 2013 - 06:42pm PT
in the early eights ,my buddy jim anglin and i were using cots from our own sources[his,,,as a paramedic,,strecher revers fold, [very simple and strong] mine standard Hope it works,,anyway that squeeze you in half,bat cave,[better than a harness]got updated and as they say the rest is ,,,,something or another,,peace and love,,
Don Paul

Big Wall climber
Colombia, South America
Jun 26, 2013 - 05:17pm PT
Check out this vintage wall hammock. Look how light and small it is, you could just have it as emergency gear.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 12:08pm PT
I just picked up a mint condition B.A.T. Tent on ebay. Same design used on the FA of the Dawn Wall 45 years ago. According to the seller, Warren dubbed this particular model the B.A.T.H tent for its conspicuous condensation problems and they phased it right out of production.
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Dec 12, 2015 - 02:18pm PT
I have an old Forrest wall hammock with a fly. I am thinking of getting rid of. It was more comfortable that I thought it would be.

Anyone interested can PM me.

Thanks for posting these stories up Steve. Must be raining in Seattle too.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 03:01pm PT
What sort of condition is it in?

Send me a photo if you would as I am interested if it is in good shape.

Yes it is raining up here but I bump when the sun is out too,
H

Mountain climber
there and back again
Dec 12, 2015 - 06:04pm PT
Actually it is a troll in excellent condition. No tears or abrasions that I could see and the elastic still works!

Whats a fair price?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2015 - 06:14pm PT
The worth of a Troll...the eternal question.

I will PM you.
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Dec 13, 2015 - 10:26am PT
Gramicci Products brochure, circa early 80s.

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 13, 2015 - 12:06pm PT
Nice shot of Big Mike G in action. STUD!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 3, 2016 - 04:33pm PT
Bump...
Fossil climber

Trad climber
Atlin, B. C.
Jul 3, 2016 - 09:06pm PT
On the Nose FA we hauled a Stokes litter up as far as Dolt Tower using the Dolt Winch thinking to use it above if ledges were lacking, but never used it. Can't recall if we tossed it off or lowered it on the winch. So - not used, doesn't count, but the idea was there.
john hansen

climber
Jul 3, 2016 - 09:49pm PT
That is a cool piece of history from Wayne Merry above, thanks for sharing that with us all.

"not used but the idea was there"

I know Harding had a few other guys work on the route. Steck, Whitmore, Caldwell, maybe Dolt and Powell..? before the final push.

It would be great to hear your perspective of the climb and the gear and techniques , and the fun times you must have had ,and how it was back then..

I am thinking of starting a thread about who lead each pitch on the Nose on the first ascent .
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 17, 2016 - 12:00pm PT
The novelty of a night spent in slings wears off quickly. LOL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2018 - 01:40pm PT
Bump for the bivy deluxe...
NutAgain!

Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
Nov 18, 2018 - 02:46pm PT
Here's the deluxe

[Click to View YouTube Video]
McHale's Navy

Trad climber
From Panorama City, CA
Nov 18, 2018 - 07:11pm PT
I was just reading a post I put in this thread from May 25, 2013 that said,
[quote]Went up on the Muir Wall in 1990 with Bat Hammocks! Got to use em at the end of the big arching section but then had to come down after dropping one of the bags. I think it hit somebody in the side of the head too! quote]

I don't know why I said I thought it hit somebody in the side of the head because it didn't. I don't know why I would have written that unless it was a running joke from other posts. It didn't happen. I don't even remember writing it. I'll try to edit that but if I can't I'll leave this. Strange....
Messages 121 - 140 of total 140 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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