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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 12, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
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Anyone know Which one this is?
Shot a pic of this one at Pinnacle Peak. It's the first bolt on the route Shalayly Direct (11c).
POS?
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Juan Maderita
Trad climber
San Diego, CA
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Mar 13, 2009 - 03:34am PT
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Older generation SMC. Not stainless steel. Definitely a POS which should be replaced.
I'd also recommend a minimum 3/8" x 3" bolt, due to the large grain size of the granitic rock.
That is, if it wasn't already replaced. This info from RC.com:
"Left of Fear of Flying and above the two ring bolts. Layback past one old SMC bolt (thanks for replacing this one) and onto face with three new bolts to a step into a crack. Climb crack to a 4 bolt headwall with a bouldery move. I think one bolt was added to this route 21 years after the FA.
Submitted by: climblouisiana on 2004-11-22"
http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Arizona/Phoenix_Area/Pinnacle_Peak/Summit_Eas...side_/Shalaylay_Direct_61921.html
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 13, 2009 - 09:25am PT
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Thank Juan for confirming what I suspected.
And no, it hasn't been replaced.
At least as of yesterday at around 5pm.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 13, 2009 - 10:12am PT
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The product stamp orientation tells the tale every time.
ec- Are you sure that the blackening wasn't a stainless wash to cut down the shine rather than an alternate plating or finish? All the blackened ones that I have are of the stainless variety. Have one that looks suspicious?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Mar 13, 2009 - 10:26am PT
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Anyone ever get the retroactive willys, thinking about bolts we used to clip?
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meclimber
Trad climber
Dover, NH
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Mar 13, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
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or still clip!
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ec
climber
ca
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Mar 13, 2009 - 12:11pm PT
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Steve,
'not sure. I know when new they had a dark, almost black 'metal flake' finish to them, and looks like the last picture posted when weathered. The stainless variety might have been those, however I know that bright stainless were the final generation sold.
ec
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
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"or still clip!"
Yeah, if I'm scared enough, I'll clip anything...
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T Moses
Trad climber
Paso Robles
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Mar 13, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
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The "Black" finish might be Black Oxide like Cam Hooks and Beaks?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 14, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
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It would have been plating of some sort to prevent rust. Bare, blackened chromoly rusts readily. I will go look through my bolt buckets and see if I can nail this down.
I posted those SMC hanger shots to help people recognize the problem hangers and what the stress cracks actually look like if you have to make the call. An AidScreamer or two around back of your gear loops may allow you to get by in one piece.
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