Old SMC hangers - how many were produced?

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steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Mar 12, 2009 - 11:42pm PT
Anyone know Which one this is?


Shot a pic of this one at Pinnacle Peak. It's the first bolt on the route Shalayly Direct (11c).

POS?
Juan Maderita

Trad climber
San Diego, CA
Mar 13, 2009 - 03:34am PT
Older generation SMC. Not stainless steel. Definitely a POS which should be replaced.
I'd also recommend a minimum 3/8" x 3" bolt, due to the large grain size of the granitic rock.

That is, if it wasn't already replaced. This info from RC.com:
"Left of Fear of Flying and above the two ring bolts. Layback past one old SMC bolt (thanks for replacing this one) and onto face with three new bolts to a step into a crack. Climb crack to a 4 bolt headwall with a bouldery move. I think one bolt was added to this route 21 years after the FA.
Submitted by: climblouisiana on 2004-11-22"

http://www.rockclimbing.com/routes/North_America/United_States/Arizona/Phoenix_Area/Pinnacle_Peak/Summit_Eas...side_/Shalaylay_Direct_61921.html


steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Mar 13, 2009 - 09:25am PT
Thank Juan for confirming what I suspected.

And no, it hasn't been replaced.
At least as of yesterday at around 5pm.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 13, 2009 - 10:12am PT
The product stamp orientation tells the tale every time.

ec- Are you sure that the blackening wasn't a stainless wash to cut down the shine rather than an alternate plating or finish? All the blackened ones that I have are of the stainless variety. Have one that looks suspicious?
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Mar 13, 2009 - 10:26am PT
Anyone ever get the retroactive willys, thinking about bolts we used to clip?
meclimber

Trad climber
Dover, NH
Mar 13, 2009 - 12:08pm PT
or still clip!
ec

climber
ca
Mar 13, 2009 - 12:11pm PT
Steve,
'not sure. I know when new they had a dark, almost black 'metal flake' finish to them, and looks like the last picture posted when weathered. The stainless variety might have been those, however I know that bright stainless were the final generation sold.
 ec
mooser

Trad climber
seattle
Mar 13, 2009 - 01:39pm PT
"or still clip!"

Yeah, if I'm scared enough, I'll clip anything...
T Moses

Trad climber
Paso Robles
Mar 13, 2009 - 03:18pm PT
The "Black" finish might be Black Oxide like Cam Hooks and Beaks?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 14, 2009 - 12:27pm PT
It would have been plating of some sort to prevent rust. Bare, blackened chromoly rusts readily. I will go look through my bolt buckets and see if I can nail this down.

I posted those SMC hanger shots to help people recognize the problem hangers and what the stress cracks actually look like if you have to make the call. An AidScreamer or two around back of your gear loops may allow you to get by in one piece.
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