Rap Lurking Fear from Thanksgiving Ledge?

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Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Mar 3, 2009 - 01:10pm PT
Prod.-

Listen to the previous chimers-in, they all have eons more wall time than me. Thinking about route choice for soloing I would consider

-steep is good
-mandatory free is [often] bad
-traversing adds value but shouldn't be a huge deal, on the way up at least!
-length is up to you

My solo experience is limited to one wall. It took for fukking ever and I learned a lot. I wanted to be alone, and not "soloing" with parties on either side of me, so that's where I went where I went. Somewhere in the Taco archives is a long discussion or two about the meta-issues of wall soloing, which are at least as important, if not more so, than the technical stuff. I would dig that up.

If that's really what you want to do (and it will have to be), jump in with both feet and don't look back. You won't forget it.

Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Mar 3, 2009 - 01:14pm PT
Prod,
listen to Mike, for get Lurking Fear and get on the Trip. Mescalito is cool and fun to do clean but it will probably take almost twice as long as T-Trip.

But honestly maybe solo something smaller like Leaning Tower or WC first.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Mar 3, 2009 - 01:19pm PT
Sheeit. Warm-ups are for weenies;-)













J/K. Do whatcha like.
But Mescalito..that thing is looooong. He's probably right. You're gonna have to want a real Ahab-style experience to send that one.
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Mar 3, 2009 - 01:20pm PT
Yeah whatever, I was really glad I soloed the Prow before Zod.
Prod

Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
Great advice so far. Leaning toward the Trip as I also believe in baptism by fire.

Matt,

I will have the summer to play/ practice solo technique here on 80' crags. but I appriciate your input.

Prod.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Mar 3, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
word. some people have the gene for compulsive immersion therapy, some don't. Not sure I would wish the 'learn everything the hard way' tic on anyone but that's yr. call.

FWIW I decided after a couple seasons of rope-soloing around on 80' cliffs that there was nothing I didn't know how to do, at least nothing real significant, as far as leading and aiding and all that, so what was stopping me? The rest you learn or make up on the way. There came, of course, numerous opportunities in finding out how much I didn't know once I committed to the big stone, but few of them were technical.

I think D.'s experience on the Dihedral might tell you something about biting off big mouthfuls for the first go-round.
Mike.

climber
Mar 3, 2009 - 03:00pm PT
Heh, NP. Break it into two 40-foot pitches so ya get a hanging belay in.
Prod

Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 3, 2009 - 03:07pm PT
RR,

I'm well aware that I'll be in, and get in, over my head physically, mentally, and technically here and there, but I'm ok with that. Which D had an experience on Dihedral? I'd like to read that. Do you have a TR of your solo?

Good advice Mike and easily done.

Prod.
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Mar 3, 2009 - 04:36pm PT
Dean went to do it; too long/hot, bailed. Consolation trip up WFLT.
No write-up of which I'm aware.

None on mine either, sorry. Some stories on a thread re: big wall hissy fits.


hollyclimber

Big Wall climber
Yosemite, CA
Mar 3, 2009 - 04:56pm PT
I soloed this. The haul was super easy. Not a pain. Also fine when not soloing.

I have rapped this too. I don't think its worth it. Great skill to learn, how to rap El Cap. Not sure I am glad I learned it, as I later put it to use for the first time last year. I recommend shlepping your stuff to the top. Its bad when you don't know the way/the first time. In reality, it is NTB. I have done that shlep 7 times I think? (Lf, Lf, W Butt, Dihedral, Aquarian, NNL, Octopussy). Risk of ropes getting stuck = high. Risk of blowing it = existant. These risks when hiking approach zero. And, it doesn't reduce the hiking to zero and the shlep down from LF base is not so fun. Done that 3 times. Not recommended.

Prod- Solo what you feel like soloing. Thats the best plan. What does anyone else here know about what you want to solo.

I was inspired to solo the Dihedral Wall. Still, that was the hardest wall of my life because I was alone. (BTW, great solo route and my bags did not get stuck).

Holly
Gene

climber
Mar 3, 2009 - 04:57pm PT
Prod,

Whatever you do, have a blast. That's the purpose, right?

Good luck,
Gene
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Mar 3, 2009 - 09:14pm PT
Prod,

Well props to ya for bighting off the big stone first!

Just remember, it's not nescesarily the basics (leading/cleaning/etc) of soling that make doing El Cap hard for your first wall solo.

It's the logistics of being on a wall for 7+ days alone. Lots of food and water to haul on your own, and no one to share any of the burden with.

I can gaurantee that you will move slower then you ever have, and slower then you'd expect soloing El Cap. Conervatively, 2 pitches quickly turns into a full day of work. And 3 pitches in a day is a lot of ground to cover...

Also, staging for the wall (carrying loads, fixing, etc) if you don't have help also takes about twice as long. And you'll need to do the descent likely 2-3 times on the East Ledges. So be sure to figure that into your time schedule.

Good luck bro, you can do it!

Mike.

climber
Mar 3, 2009 - 10:00pm PT
And if it is not already clear at this point...




































































You're gonna die.


: ]






So you might as well go big. And not on the slabs of the proudest big wall in America.
Michael D

Big Wall climber
Napoli, Italy
Mar 3, 2009 - 10:30pm PT
Since you said you just wanted to solo a wall..maybe, any wall?
Leaning Tower is fun, and is easy to haul. Solo'd both WFLT and WDD, no problems, straight forward. WDD might be my all time fav, as nobody else was on the line and you could relax and climb at your own pace. Have fun!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Mar 3, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
If you are determined, and a good rock climber who practises, you can probably make it up El Cap solo your first time. Ricardo did.

If you want to play it safe, go solo WFLT first. Your chances of success are far higher.

But if you go to solo El Cap, do knott under any circumstances sell yourself short regarding time - allow yourself a minimum of two weeks start to finish. Bring extra food and water to guarantee success. Know how to haul above in all circumstances. Have your Far End Hauler ready for the last pitch[es].

Shut up and climb.
Hummerchine

Trad climber
East Wenatchee, WA
Mar 4, 2009 - 12:23am PT
Just so happens that I have soled both Aquarian and Lurking Fear..the first 12 years ago, the last 2 years ago. Both were incredible experiences. When I did Lurking Fear, I also considered rapping Lurking Fear. Now that I've been up there, I realize that would be a huge mistake. Main reason I say so is that it would absolutely hose anybody on the route...which is almost for sure. I think the topout is super cool, two pitches of climbing off Thanksgiving and then you can shuttle loads to the top. Takes about half a day or longer, but it's really neat up there. My haul bag never got stuck on the Aquarian, did have a huge issue from pitch 12 to 13 (I think) on Lurking Fear. It's the pitch off the OK sloping ledge that is actually quite horrible...the next bivi is much better. The last pitch to Thanksgiving is pretty bad hauling too, but doable. Probably not a good route to solo for the first time due to popularity, I got lucky and pretty much owned the thing...two day parties passed me real quick. Cheers!
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Mar 4, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
Get on the Trip and make it past pitch 4 on day one, gauranteed you wont bail.

fwi
BooYah

Social climber
Ruby Range
Mar 4, 2009 - 07:40pm PT
Go for full value. Go big! BooYah!
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Mar 4, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
Prod wrote: "In researching I have found that hauling from the top out to the East Ledges decent is a pain. Somewhere I have read that rapping Lurking Fear from Thanksgiving Ledge is a good option."

Anyone who would suggest that you rap down an El Cap big wall (even slabby big wall like LF), as opposed to walking over to the East Ledges and descend that way, is assigning you a needlessly dangerous and involved task. Hauling up anything low angle is a PITA, but made far easier by keeping things light so said pig is nothing more than a sausage.

The other thing is this fairly modern idea of reversing stuff - for convenience sake - before the climb has actually been completed. Pretty soon folks might be climbing "The Nose," but bailing at the Boot because they don't want to deal with the Gray Bands.

You do the whole Mo Foo, good and bad, and get the whole experience. This business of trying to eliminate the thorny bits on a big climb is absurd. Big climbs are all PITA on some level. Accept this, or change sports.

BTW, for a first solo wall, how about The Prow (bit of groveling at the top, but fairly straight up and down) or the Zodiac??

JL
Prod

Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 4, 2009 - 09:22pm PT
Lambone,

That is the plan. Fix to 4 then blast. Looks like I have a pal who will swap pitches to 4 and help shlep loads, then solo from there.

JL.

First wall was Zodiac, 2nd wall this Sept looks like it will be Tangerine Trip. I agree take the good with the bad.

Cheers,

Prod.
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