Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 24, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
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Nice stuff, Mark! Way too hard for me to go near, even when I onsighted tales.... Shouldn't that, be Ray's pin job?
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Feb 24, 2009 - 09:02pm PT
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Great effort leading that bastard on Hexes. There's a pretty uniform sized bit (like one inch - the very worst size for me) just after the traverse (easy with big fingers) that would be grim to pause and wiggle hexes in.
Amazing that Croft and Moffit fired this thing. I had to go back three times, with Ron Fawcett, and we yo-yoed the sh#t out of the thing till we had all but the last bit of crack totally wired, move for move. We worked it, and kept getting the rope higher, till we basically had a top rope strung - shabby style by any definition. I got to where I could float the lower part, to just past the traverse - but that size, where the crack goes vert, was just horendous for both Ron and me.
The ghastly pinned out lower bit (like two or three body lengths), the awkward sling belay at the bottom, and the weird location make the Phoenix a super hard curiosity rather than an all time classic, IMO. Hang Dog Flyer has a few cranker moves, and I could never turn the roof on Owl Roof, but for my money, Phoenix is by far Jardine's hardest route in the Valley.
JL
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salad
climber
Escondido
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Feb 24, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
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wow.
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 24, 2009 - 09:13pm PT
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Is there anyone, (besides Mr Jardine, and his views are always welcome, in any case) who can quantitatively compare the Phoenix, to Elephant's eliminate?
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 24, 2009 - 09:23pm PT
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Great photos, Mark - thanks for sharing.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 24, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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Thanks!!
Story hour on SuperTopo is even better than the one at the library.
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James
climber
My twin brother's laundry room
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Feb 24, 2009 - 10:52pm PT
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It's crazy that Beth Rodden onsighted this thing. Savage!
Thanks Mark. Awesome story and an inspiration.
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dogtown
climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
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Feb 24, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
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Man; that thing is awful!
Thanks for posting up Mark, Great story.
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MisterE
Trad climber
One Place or Another
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Feb 24, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
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Thanks for the blow-by-blow, Mark. Great stuff!
Erik
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Feb 24, 2009 - 11:40pm PT
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Burly and olde skool.
And hey, I know it's not granite, but you should come out to Beacon sometime when it opens this year...
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hashbro
Trad climber
Mental Physics........
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Feb 25, 2009 - 08:13am PT
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Boy I must say that these great threads (including Tales of Power, the Crucifix and others) are makin' me want to get in really good shape and onsight those routes before my body turns to jello.
Thanks all and please keep posting those hand-sweating photos...
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J. Werlin
climber
Cedaredge
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Feb 25, 2009 - 08:26am PT
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Bravo! Excellent TR Mark. Many thanks.
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Walleye
climber
Inking the deal at Ralph Spoilsport Motors
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Feb 25, 2009 - 08:44am PT
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Bravissimo!
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 25, 2009 - 09:02am PT
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Nice account and pictures, Mark. Cannot even imagine how hard that is.
Your comment, "It took us four days of work. We would usually give it one burn each. I was doing better on it than Max was so it was me who was placing the gear and moving the rope up. We had a moral point as to how far up we wanted to yo-yo the thing though" is a slice in time.
You guys were amoung the first to follow Ray's routes with a sense of the earlier sensibilities of 'working' a route. Great history to have a specific instance to point to.
Best, Roger
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Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
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Rise from the ashes bump.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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This last fall, it was so funny to me to be driving past this route thinking, "damn, I did that so, so long ago". It felt like another lifetime.
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Mike.
climber
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Solid gold contribution. Thanks for posting it, MH.
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handsome B
Gym climber
SL,UT
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fantastic account and pictures, a truly delightful slice of history filled with emotion that I can relate to, even though the route kicked my butt
by yo-yo, do you mean moving the rope up, or just moving the gear up?
I didn't find the pin scars very out of place by yosemite standards
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couchmaster
climber
pdx
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Youse guys would be some mean Mo-fos with today's shoes and modern gear selection. Even Fires were a major step up from the EB's you had then and now friction is even further along than Fires. Bad-assed is the understatement. Great stuff! Thanks for sharing it.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Those photos should be in Yosemite Climber.
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SuperTopo on the Web
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Let us know!