The Phoenix


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Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 24, 2009 - 11:54pm PT
Nice stuff, Mark! Way too hard for me to go near, even when I onsighted tales.... Shouldn't that, be Ray's pin job?

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Feb 25, 2009 - 12:02am PT
Great effort leading that bastard on Hexes. There's a pretty uniform sized bit (like one inch - the very worst size for me) just after the traverse (easy with big fingers) that would be grim to pause and wiggle hexes in.

Amazing that Croft and Moffit fired this thing. I had to go back three times, with Ron Fawcett, and we yo-yoed the sh#t out of the thing till we had all but the last bit of crack totally wired, move for move. We worked it, and kept getting the rope higher, till we basically had a top rope strung - shabby style by any definition. I got to where I could float the lower part, to just past the traverse - but that size, where the crack goes vert, was just horendous for both Ron and me.

The ghastly pinned out lower bit (like two or three body lengths), the awkward sling belay at the bottom, and the weird location make the Phoenix a super hard curiosity rather than an all time classic, IMO. Hang Dog Flyer has a few cranker moves, and I could never turn the roof on Owl Roof, but for my money, Phoenix is by far Jardine's hardest route in the Valley.


Feb 25, 2009 - 12:08am PT

Social climber
wuz real!
Feb 25, 2009 - 12:13am PT
Is there anyone, (besides Mr Jardine, and his views are always welcome, in any case) who can quantitatively compare the Phoenix, to Elephant's eliminate?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 25, 2009 - 12:23am PT
Great photos, Mark - thanks for sharing.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 25, 2009 - 01:41am PT

Story hour on SuperTopo is even better than the one at the library.

My twin brother's laundry room
Feb 25, 2009 - 01:52am PT
It's crazy that Beth Rodden onsighted this thing. Savage!

Thanks Mark. Awesome story and an inspiration.

Feb 25, 2009 - 02:13am PT
Man; that thing is awful!

Thanks for posting up Mark, Great story.

Trad climber
One Place or Another
Feb 25, 2009 - 02:33am PT
Thanks for the blow-by-blow, Mark. Great stuff!


Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
Feb 25, 2009 - 02:40am PT
Burly and olde skool.

And hey, I know it's not granite, but you should come out to Beacon sometime when it opens this year...

Trad climber
Mental Physics........
Feb 25, 2009 - 11:13am PT
Boy I must say that these great threads (including Tales of Power, the Crucifix and others) are makin' me want to get in really good shape and onsight those routes before my body turns to jello.

Thanks all and please keep posting those hand-sweating photos...
J. Werlin

Feb 25, 2009 - 11:26am PT
Bravo! Excellent TR Mark. Many thanks.
Roger Breedlove

Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 25, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
Nice account and pictures, Mark. Cannot even imagine how hard that is.

Your comment, "It took us four days of work. We would usually give it one burn each. I was doing better on it than Max was so it was me who was placing the gear and moving the rope up. We had a moral point as to how far up we wanted to yo-yo the thing though" is a slice in time.

You guys were amoung the first to follow Ray's routes with a sense of the earlier sensibilities of 'working' a route. Great history to have a specific instance to point to.

Best, Roger


Social climber
Nov 4, 2009 - 11:05pm PT
Rise from the ashes bump.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Nov 4, 2009 - 11:21pm PT
This last fall, it was so funny to me to be driving past this route thinking, "damn, I did that so, so long ago". It felt like another lifetime.

Nov 5, 2009 - 12:15am PT
Solid gold contribution. Thanks for posting it, MH.
handsome B

Gym climber
Nov 5, 2009 - 12:36am PT
fantastic account and pictures, a truly delightful slice of history filled with emotion that I can relate to, even though the route kicked my butt

by yo-yo, do you mean moving the rope up, or just moving the gear up?

I didn't find the pin scars very out of place by yosemite standards

Nov 5, 2009 - 12:58am PT
Youse guys would be some mean Mo-fos with today's shoes and modern gear selection. Even Fires were a major step up from the EB's you had then and now friction is even further along than Fires. Bad-assed is the understatement. Great stuff! Thanks for sharing it.

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Nov 5, 2009 - 01:17am PT
Those photos should be in Yosemite Climber.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 5, 2009 - 01:35am PT
Mark, did you end up having surgery to fix your shoulder? Just curious - I eventually had to, after repeated dislocations, the first from a bicycle crash.
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