The Phoenix

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Messages 121 - 129 of total 129 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Oct 2, 2014 - 05:12pm PT
I stabbed at the crack, missed and my fingers drug back to here. I stabbed again and did it.

That is quite a photo, it really captures "the struggle".

T H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Nov 1, 2014 - 11:29pm PT
Notice Ray's pinned out corner. We thought it was pretty gross when we got there and saw what he had done.
It could have been stellar, but a dickhead f*#ked it up.
Even Honnold's solo is ruined IMO.
zip

Trad climber
pacific beach, ca
Nov 2, 2014 - 06:21am PT
Just read along with Tales.
I'm psyched to get back on the stone soon.
Rollover

climber
Gross Vegas
Feb 25, 2015 - 02:32pm PT
BBST
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 25, 2015 - 11:21pm PT
Jardine hang-dogged 100 days on it before doing it .....
Excerpts from Ray Jardine's Climbing Log:
 4/9/77 - Phoenix - Ray Jardine finds it, cleans it, and works on it for 4 days (alternating days on Owl Roof).
 4/29/77 - Phoenix led with 3 rests
 3 more days of work on Phoenix
 5/9/77 - led Phoenix free from upper belay - FA Ray Jardine
 5/13/77 - cleaned lower Phoenix [not in Log: i.e. pin scarred it to create finger locks, and left fixed pins in for pro]
 5 days of work on "Phoenix II"
 5/20/77 - led "Phoenix II" free - FA Ray Jardine, John Lakey

So I count 9 climbing days to Phoenix (I), and 15 days to Phoenix II.
Still pretty unusual at that time, to keep going back to the same climb day after day.
The persistence paid off, though!

Prior to Phoenix in 1977:
 19 days climbing on Separate Reality (led free with fixed pro and led free without fixed pro)
 13 days climbing on Owl Roof (John Lakey led it free first, then Ray)

In later years, the Log shows Ray attempted the Phoenix 11 more times, but never led it free again.
Good training, though. It had to be a very hard size for his fingers/hands.
 4 days after the FA of Phoenix II, Ray followed Bill Price on it.

http://www.rayjardine.com/adventures/Climbing/climbing_log/index.htm
WBraun

climber
Feb 26, 2015 - 07:50am PT
It could have been stellar, but a dickhead f*#ked it up.
Even Honnold's solo is ruined IMO.

Have you ever even tried it?

I bet you haven't.

Honnold's free solo of the Phoenix is out of this world and nothing got ruined.

You have no idea how technical this crack climb is even with the pin job.

Ray verbally told me it took him 100 days to do it.

So if his written log is different than his verbal account ..... who knows what happened?
T Hocking

Trad climber
Redding, Ca
Feb 26, 2015 - 10:12am PT
Awesome thread,
cool pics,
thanks for the bump.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 26, 2015 - 02:03pm PT
That traverse section looks really tough, seeing Hidetaka Suzuki with his feet cut loose.
And Mark Hudon injuring his shoulder there.
Even Alex Honnold in the video changed the direction he put his hand in
at the end of the traverse. That's getting scary, if it wasn't already....

Ray verbally told me it took him 100 days to do it.

So if his written log is different than his verbal account ..... who knows what happened?
Maybe he meant 100 tries?
That could happen if he averaged 6.5 tries per day x 15 days.

or maybe:

He had been climbing in the Valley that year for about 94 days (2/15-5/20).
Maybe that is where the 100 days came from.
But he was climbing on other routes, some days were bouldering, etc.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Feb 28, 2015 - 01:08pm PT
BBST SATURDAY NIGHT BUMPPO ! !! !!
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