The Phoenix


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Gnome Ofthe Diabase

Out Of Bed
Feb 28, 2015 - 01:08pm PT

Trad climber
Apr 20, 2015 - 10:29am PT
bump for some old-school, hard-crack-climbing, passive-pro-only, sick-picture-having, badassery.

Sport climber
Columbus, OH
Apr 24, 2015 - 11:03am PT
those purple shoes are mad real

los angeles, ca
Apr 24, 2015 - 11:30am PT
Awesome!! thanks for posting the stories, photos, and history! This thread has enough fuel to power me for at least a few months. Cant wait to try the Phoenix one day...

Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
Apr 24, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
After the traverse, in the leaning rattler hands section, the idea of me being up there with no rope is terrifying. That's just another level of performance altogether.


Big Wall climber
Apr 24, 2015 - 04:22pm PT

[Click to View YouTube Video]

Love this thread!

Social climber
Apr 24, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
Great thread. Past and Present.
Drill Sgt Dave

Trad climber
West Virginia
Apr 25, 2015 - 07:28am PT
I remember the article in Mountain magazine where you two climbed all the hardest pitches in the usa....was learning to lead at the time. ...very inspiring

Trad climber
Washington DC
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2015 - 11:06am PT
From Mountain Project - Bill Price


Social climber
An Oil Field
May 27, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
Doing it back in those days, in EB's and homemade leg loops is cool.

Mark, you talked about popping your shoulder. I remember back then, when 5.13 was just starting to happen, everyone thought that at some point the human body would just break down. Everyone was destroying their elbows on Bachar Ladders and popping finger tendons. I wasn't that good, but even I managed to pop a finger tendon on a boulder problem. Shut me down for weeks; had to just let it heal.

Now we see Sharma dyno'ing from a one finger pocket, on insanely overhanging rock. So where are the limits of tendons and cartilage?

Who the hell knows....

Gym climber
May 27, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
When Bellizzi introduced me to Bill in the Meadows campground several years back, I couldn't believe the mac sausages that dude had for fingers. My hand fit into his huge palm like a broccoli stalk. I can see getting some skin into Phoenix, OK, but Silly Willy Crack? What the hell??
Double D

May 27, 2015 - 05:32pm PT
If Ray's log showed that he went up 4 days after he did the FFA he's got some slight memory challenges. Bill and I went up there to work it after Ray's ascent and did it free in like 15 pitches. Bill came back later to work it and ended up firing it, pausing at the base of the crack to haul up some pro as he didn't think he'd get through the section. That thing was way above my head, a rattly, leaning pump fest.

Trad climber
May 27, 2015 - 05:48pm PT
Pyro's 60 Minutes Alex H video upthread is awesome. John Long commentating.

Trad climber
Washington DC
Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
Kelly, can't remember if you were with me or not but I was hanging for a couple of weeks at the Leap when Bill was working Silly Willy with Angie (sic) at belay. I think he had just red pointed Grand Illusion. BITD.

Gym climber
May 27, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
Marty, I wasn't with you when Bill was working Silly Willy. But I remember climbing Magnum Force, and at the top turned John Mock around and said, "Look at that Crazy crack!"

No kidding, just then these two small Asian women walked up the gully, and right over to the base of the crack. They started to work the thing!! We went over there, and it wasn't two gals, it was Suzuki and his wife. Lots of laughs, I asked him how hard the thing was.

He pantomimed the moves, trying to recall their difficulty:

"5.12 move, 5.12 move, 5.12 move, 5.12 move..." He showed me the first TCUs I ever saw, straight from Byrne they were.

A day or so later, I got a note on my car, I still have it:

Hello! Today I made the Second Ascent of
Silly Willy Crack. Today I felt very good,
so I made that after 2 try.
I was very glad. See you someday.
Have a nice climb.

3pm, June 10 Suzuki.

I wonder what year that was.


Around that same time, we went up to Sugarloaf and I made it over to the base of Grand Illusion. There was a hand-written note attached to a hanger that was stuck in the crack at the start of the roof pitch. It stated "This route now goes free." We looked up at the thing, yeow. Fixed pins the whole way out.

Climbing is cool...

Trad climber
Pasadena, CA
Oct 4, 2015 - 08:33pm PT
Nothing to lose

Sport climber
Oct 24, 2017 - 09:11pm PT
Does anyone know of any good abandoned buildings near surprise or phoenix area by chance.
I am wanting to explore those options out very soon
any advice and locations would be appreciated

Social climber
Oct 24, 2017 - 09:19pm PT
Best pitch ever

Jun 18, 2018 - 09:19am PT
bump. Great interview a la enormocast
Messages 121 - 139 of total 139 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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