Jardine hang-dogged 100 days on it before doing it .....
Excerpts from Ray Jardine's Climbing Log:
4/9/77 - Phoenix - Ray Jardine finds it, cleans it, and works on it for 4 days (alternating days on Owl Roof).
4/29/77 - Phoenix led with 3 rests
3 more days of work on Phoenix
5/9/77 - led Phoenix free from upper belay - FA Ray Jardine
5/13/77 - cleaned lower Phoenix [not in Log: i.e. pin scarred it to create finger locks, and left fixed pins in for pro]
5 days of work on "Phoenix II"
5/20/77 - led "Phoenix II" free - FA Ray Jardine, John Lakey
So I count 9 climbing days to Phoenix (I), and 15 days to Phoenix II.
Still pretty unusual at that time, to keep going back to the same climb day after day.
The persistence paid off, though!
Prior to Phoenix in 1977:
19 days climbing on Separate Reality (led free with fixed pro and led free without fixed pro)
13 days climbing on Owl Roof (John Lakey led it free first, then Ray)
In later years, the Log shows Ray attempted the Phoenix 11 more times, but never led it free again.
Good training, though. It had to be a very hard size for his fingers/hands.
4 days after the FA of Phoenix II, Ray followed Bill Price on it.
That traverse section looks really tough, seeing Hidetaka Suzuki with his feet cut loose.
And Mark Hudon injuring his shoulder there.
Even Alex Honnold in the video changed the direction he put his hand in
at the end of the traverse. That's getting scary, if it wasn't already....
Ray verbally told me it took him 100 days to do it.
So if his written log is different than his verbal account ..... who knows what happened?
Maybe he meant 100 tries?
That could happen if he averaged 6.5 tries per day x 15 days.
He had been climbing in the Valley that year for about 94 days (2/15-5/20).
Maybe that is where the 100 days came from.
But he was climbing on other routes, some days were bouldering, etc.