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bbbeans
Trad climber
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Apr 20, 2015 - 10:29am PT
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bump for some old-school, hard-crack-climbing, passive-pro-only, sick-picture-having, badassery.
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batesreilly
Sport climber
Columbus, OH
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Apr 24, 2015 - 11:03am PT
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those purple shoes are mad real
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dhayan
climber
los angeles, ca
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Apr 24, 2015 - 11:30am PT
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Awesome!! thanks for posting the stories, photos, and history! This thread has enough fuel to power me for at least a few months. Cant wait to try the Phoenix one day...
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Apr 24, 2015 - 01:20pm PT
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After the traverse, in the leaning rattler hands section, the idea of me being up there with no rope is terrifying. That's just another level of performance altogether.
JL
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Apr 24, 2015 - 06:35pm PT
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Great thread. Past and Present.
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Drill Sgt Dave
Trad climber
West Virginia
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Apr 25, 2015 - 07:28am PT
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I remember the article in Mountain magazine where you two climbed all the hardest pitches in the usa....was learning to lead at the time. ...very inspiring
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2015 - 11:06am PT
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From Mountain Project - Bill Price
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BASE104
Social climber
An Oil Field
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May 27, 2015 - 01:09pm PT
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Doing it back in those days, in EB's and homemade leg loops is cool.
Mark, you talked about popping your shoulder. I remember back then, when 5.13 was just starting to happen, everyone thought that at some point the human body would just break down. Everyone was destroying their elbows on Bachar Ladders and popping finger tendons. I wasn't that good, but even I managed to pop a finger tendon on a boulder problem. Shut me down for weeks; had to just let it heal.
Now we see Sharma dyno'ing from a one finger pocket, on insanely overhanging rock. So where are the limits of tendons and cartilage?
Who the hell knows....
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 27, 2015 - 04:21pm PT
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When Bellizzi introduced me to Bill in the Meadows campground several years back, I couldn't believe the mac sausages that dude had for fingers. My hand fit into his huge palm like a broccoli stalk. I can see getting some skin into Phoenix, OK, but Silly Willy Crack? What the hell??
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Double D
climber
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May 27, 2015 - 05:32pm PT
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If Ray's log showed that he went up 4 days after he did the FFA he's got some slight memory challenges. Bill and I went up there to work it after Ray's ascent and did it free in like 15 pitches. Bill came back later to work it and ended up firing it, pausing at the base of the crack to haul up some pro as he didn't think he'd get through the section. That thing was way above my head, a rattly, leaning pump fest.
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Studly
Trad climber
WA
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May 27, 2015 - 05:48pm PT
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Pyro's 60 Minutes Alex H video upthread is awesome. John Long commentating.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
Washington DC
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2015 - 06:52pm PT
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Kelly, can't remember if you were with me or not but I was hanging for a couple of weeks at the Leap when Bill was working Silly Willy with Angie (sic) at belay. I think he had just red pointed Grand Illusion. BITD.
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k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
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May 27, 2015 - 09:13pm PT
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Marty, I wasn't with you when Bill was working Silly Willy. But I remember climbing Magnum Force, and at the top turned John Mock around and said, "Look at that Crazy crack!"
No kidding, just then these two small Asian women walked up the gully, and right over to the base of the crack. They started to work the thing!! We went over there, and it wasn't two gals, it was Suzuki and his wife. Lots of laughs, I asked him how hard the thing was.
He pantomimed the moves, trying to recall their difficulty:
"5.12 move, 5.12 move, 5.12 move, 5.12 move..." He showed me the first TCUs I ever saw, straight from Byrne they were.
A day or so later, I got a note on my car, I still have it:
Hello! Today I made the Second Ascent of
Silly Willy Crack. Today I felt very good,
so I made that after 2 try.
I was very glad. See you someday.
Have a nice climb.
3pm, June 10 Suzuki.
I wonder what year that was.
Ha!
Around that same time, we went up to Sugarloaf and I made it over to the base of Grand Illusion. There was a hand-written note attached to a hanger that was stuck in the crack at the start of the roof pitch. It stated "This route now goes free." We looked up at the thing, yeow. Fixed pins the whole way out.
Climbing is cool...
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Nothing to lose
Sport climber
Surprise
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Oct 24, 2017 - 09:11pm PT
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Hey
Does anyone know of any good abandoned buildings near surprise or phoenix area by chance.
I am wanting to explore those options out very soon
any advice and locations would be appreciated
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shylock
Social climber
mb
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Oct 24, 2017 - 09:19pm PT
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Best pitch ever
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domngo
climber
Canada
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Jun 18, 2018 - 09:19am PT
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bump. Great interview a la enormocast
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