The Crucifix

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Messages 1 - 68 of total 68 in this topic
Gobi

Trad climber
Orange CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 24, 2009 - 01:11pm PT
Iíve heard this is a really good climb and Iíd like to do it. Anyone have any stories or photos of this route. The Affliction also looks way cool, Iíve given that a good viewin on the MCR descent. Any photos of routes on HCR would be appreciated.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 24, 2009 - 02:39pm PT
You can read the story of the first ascent right here on supertopo:

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=391916&msg=726280#msg726280

(I remembered this one, and it was easy to find, by searching for "Crucifix" :-) ).

rockermike

Mountain climber
Feb 24, 2009 - 03:41pm PT
nice pic of NEBHC; I think we did yellow to purple to down green then finished on red; or something like that. All in the pitch dark and we were way fried so I don't know where the hell we were actually. ha

Supertopo should but that pic in the book. And one of the start too. I think we lost an hour poking around the base. gumbies.
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 24, 2009 - 04:19pm PT
The Crucifix is on the Mark Hudon Ten Best Routes of His Life List. I've done it twice.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 24, 2009 - 05:41pm PT
Hey Mark,

On the ledge that cuts right, how wide is it?

Does the crack that steps left at the ledge and runs up through the roof go?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 24, 2009 - 05:49pm PT
Roger,

There is a fairly new route between the NE Buttress and Crucifix, which has been partly freed:

2217. Wild Apes 5.9 A3+, V, 10p, start betw. LTC & MT, L of Crucifix, AAJ2004

2221. Gravity Ceiling route 5.13a, 3p freed on upper Wild Apes; half of ceiling freed, ST

I believe it goes in the big right facing corner, not in the face crack which would be the continuation of the lower part of the Crucifix cross.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
What a great climb and terrific place!
Iíve climbed it twice leading all of the pitches, in 1983 and 1987.

Each time with the Maryís Tears direct alternative to the Northeast Buttress start, but climbing *direct* variants of the Maryís Tears which bypass the first and third 5.11 pitches, in a very natural line, each variant about 5.8 (okay 5.9 tops & on sub-par rock).

No falls on either ascent, but deliberately aiding the 12- entry to The Crucifix,
And never able to free the bit past the ear up high (too pumped anyway).
(I also never quite realized I needed to go out left and actually layback the ear, there is a tight finger crack leading straight up)

The gorgeous, cruiser 5.10+ mid section of Maryís Tears:






Aiding the funky, somewhat rotten, poorly protected 5.12- entry into The Crucifix proper:
(It didn't go free at the time, & this is where the Northeast Buttress crosses left)




The nice fist cracks:






The 5.10C offwidth:






The 5.11C stemming corner, fairly short and pretty straightforward:






My first time out, I had Mike Waugh on Jumars behind me, so no extra rope.
When I got to the alcove below this last 5.10 pitch , which is very exposed, I had no gear for the anchor.



So I had Mike untie, I was pulled into the alcove on a fingerlock, & with my free hand pulled the entire rope up,
Alternately clenching it with my teeth,
Then dropped it to Mike so I could pull up, again with one hand, something like a number 1 and 1.5 Friend for the anchor!
(This means I was unroped in a fairly cramped and very exposed position on a BIG route)

Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2009 - 07:28pm PT


Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Feb 24, 2009 - 07:31pm PT
Good stuff Roy!

Waugh on Jumars!?! hahahaha! Poor old guy. Was he on a rest day or something?
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 24, 2009 - 07:34pm PT
He was suffering from back problems.
'Blew it out rap bolting.........................................................................................
le_bruce

climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
Feb 24, 2009 - 08:06pm PT
Killer photos, Clint and Tarbuster!

Yikes on that belay story.
Russ Walling

Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
Feb 24, 2009 - 08:08pm PT
Tar: bwahahahaha! I think I just sharted! Rapbolting! the SHAME!

Side note edit: always liked that pic of you on the 10.c wide.... look at the rack. It goes to 2", if that. Cool. Stole the pic already for the weekly wide pic thread over where the men are... WideFetish.... and of course... you da man.
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Feb 24, 2009 - 08:16pm PT
That is all bad ass!!!!

Following up that route was awesome!!!



More!!
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Feb 25, 2009 - 09:20am PT
Friggin' great pictures! This climb is right up there with Astroman, the Rostrum, and Freestone for me.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 25, 2009 - 09:44am PT
Tar comes through again with another unbelievable adventure!
WOW!
Jay Wood

Trad climber
Fairfax, CA
Feb 25, 2009 - 09:56am PT
Climber on Crucifix seen from NEB

Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 25, 2009 - 10:16am PT
In November of 2008, Kevin Worrall gave this account of the first ascent of "The Crucifix" with Bridwell in 1973. It was buried in another thread Old Geezers! (Yes you!) Write up your FA Stories and tidbits

The Crucifix, by Kevin Worrall

I couldn't wait to get out of high school. I knew exactly what I was going to do - Tim Harrison had filled me in on how it was done. Get to Yosemite around the end of August with a few hundred dollars, set up a tent in Camp 4, ride a bike, spend as little as possible, and climb til it gets too cold or the funds run out.

I climbed the Salathe that Fall, and began checking off 5.10 crack climbs in my little green book. Got to know the crew in camp, and gradually began to make friends and slowly earn respect for my love of climbing. One of those friends was Jim Bridwell. He was a little .... different.... than the other guys.

Jim had a beautiful girlfriend in camp with him, I forget which one it was that first Fall, but none of the other freaks hanging out there did, least not the youngsters like me. Jim had more Valley experience than most all my climbing partners put together, but bore that distinction with the kindness of a father to us. Most of the time.

Next Spring was the first time I sensed he took note of a route I did - after I led Edge of Night. "How was it?" he asked. "Not too bad," I honestly replied. "did it left side in." He hadn't heard of anyone doing it that way, and I think he was more impressed by the fact I did it differently that than the fact I led it.


Not long after that, I was talking to him about the Northeast Buttress of Higher Rock, which I had just done for the second time. I mentioned a wild looking crack system to its right that I had been peering at from one of the belays. I asked him if it had been done, and he told me he was just up there with another partner. The guy wasn't into it, and they had retreated. He told me it was unclimbed. Then he asked me if I wanted to give it a go. I was kind of shocked as I remember.

I had a flash of fear mixed with excitement. It was a terrifyingly steep and smooth wall, hugely exposed by my standards, but The Bird asked me to join him in such a casual fashion it was as if he'd just asked me if I wanted to go have a beer at Degnan's or something.

A couple of days later he woke me up early and off we went. I don't know who was carrying what, all I remember is when we got to the base and dumped out the gear I was shocked again. "Is there another rope?" I asked? Underneath the looming 1500 ft unclimbed wall of Higher Rock he replied "No, why?". There was one fuzzed out red and blue 150 ft Edelrid 9 mil that looked like it was salvaged from a food hang in camp. "It's fine. What's it gonna do, break?"

No pins, no bolts, no hammer, no food, 1 quart of water. Doubles on some hexes, not all, nothing bigger than a 10 hex and a few stoppers.

I was 18 years old, an upstart, and he was the wise Valley Master. I assumed this was the way it was done, and questioned no more.

The first pitches on the Northeast Buttress Route flew by, and soon we were at the traverse and the start of The Crucifix. He had told me at some point that the route, while unclimbed, was not unnamed. I had questioned the religious connotations, and he explained that the crack system was crossed part way up by a horizontal fracture, which gave the whole thing the proportions of a gigantic cross, and that the name was not subject to further discussion. Sounded good to me.

Brid had already done the first pitch off the traverse ledge, so he took the lead, starting with a few aid moves and then into freeclimbing in a flare. He was done quick, and I followed him up to his belay. Without looking me in the eye, he handed me the rack. I looked up to see the next pitch jutting out over our heads - a steep 20 ft ramp leading to a 20 ft overhanging dihedral with a wide hand crack was all I could see. The wall beyond was dead vertical.

I wanted badly to somehow not do it, but I had to go, there was no graceful way out. When I reached the overhang, I was relieved to find it a good size for my hands, but quickly realized there was a problem. The inside of the crack had a thin scaly layer of rock on both sides, which popped when I flexed my hands. Every jam meant an initial flex to detach the scale followed by a frantic finger brushing to make a reasonably clean surface to pull on. This factor also made the hex placements a little sketchy.

Fortunately, God put a big stem hold half way up the overhanging corner which broke it up into two sections, allowing a good rest. I collected myself there, and continued scratching up the corner to where the angle eased to plumb. 9 hex, perfect hands, straight up, straight in, I was elated to be past the steep part, and the rock was no longer scaly, but perfect. Jim grinned that Bridwell grin as he peered up to encourage me.

There were no ledges, or even footholds that I could see to go for, but about fifty feet up, there appeared to be a small alcove in the crack. I was jacked that I was actually making progress on the thing when I was confronted with a 2ft tall, 1 inch thick flake in the crack. When I reached up to pinch it it nearly teetered out in my face. I passed it by shoving it back deep enough to get shallow jams, and then went for the alcove. Same problem, much bigger flake.

I placed my last hex endwise and stepped into a runner on it. That enabled me to get enough leverage to push the beast into the back of it's hole and make room for a belay. Jim had to lower me off the hex to backclean a couple of pieces to build the anchor.

When Jim arrived at the first thin flake, he took tension and maneuvered it out of the crack. With a final tug he sent it. It flipped a few times in the air and began to frisbee in a big arc. We watched it fly 800ft to the ground without touching the wall.

Steep up there.

I was glad Jim got the offsize above us. He polished it off quickly and easily, running out the wide part. Soon he was off belay and before I started up, I took tension to jettison the big flake I had been holding between my legs as I belayed him, another spectacular trundle.

Jim took the next lead also, which put us on the horizontal fracture which forms The Crucifix, and here it was a comfortable, and very exposed ledge. We drank our quart of water.

The next lead was mine. A pin behind the ledge would have protected it well, but no pins. I traversed standing to where the ledge narrowed, then got own on one knee to continue. Soon I had slid over the edge of the ledge and was hand traversing it twenty feet out from Jim with nothing between us but that fuzzy, skinny, food hang rope. Below me was an alarming amount of air.

My goal was a shallow corner that faced us with an arrow crack in it. I fiddled around with some wires, finally got a good #4, and broke out the aiders. A few tiny stoppers got me around a roof and onto freeclimbing again. The rope threatened to pull them all out behind me as the crack aimed in Jim's direction, but I finally got a good directional in and continued to an airy belay out on the prow of the massive Northeast Buttress proper.

Jim didn't hesitate to aid the start of his pitch. I remember thinking there were freeclimbing possibilities on the beautifully featured rock, but it looked hard. Croft freed it 12 years later at 11d. His lead brought us up to the level of the huge roof that caps the giant corner which is much of The Northeast Buttress route. He was anchored in an alcove when I reached him, and we were both tired, but giddy because we knew the route was pretty much in the bag.

I stemmed up through the roof above him and quickly found myself on a lichen covered slab with little protection. Jim was out of sight below, and I remember feeling very alone up there as I carefully found my way from hold to hold, leaving protection far behind. The rigors of the day had both exhausted and focused my mind to the point that I was loose and relaxed even as the moss crumbled under my feet on every move.

The slab gave way to blocks and ledges just below the summit of Higher Rock. I quickly slung a scrub oak and brought Jim up. It had been a perfect day - no falls, wild and crazy climbing, a steep and incredibly exposed new route, and topped off with one of the Valley's best summits.

We were at the river before dark, our faces submerged in the Merced, gulping deep swallows of Sierra snowmelt in the twilight.

KW
Walleye

climber
Inking the deal at Ralph Spoilsport Motors
Feb 25, 2009 - 10:21am PT
Outf*#kingstanding!!! Way out of my league for sure but always enjoyed hearing about this route. Everyone I know who has done practically raves about it.. Nice pics everyone
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Feb 25, 2009 - 10:29am PT
Amazing what people can accomplish when technique and confidence are the primary tools. That's a great story.
WBraun

climber
Feb 25, 2009 - 11:04am PT
On that Northeast Buttress of higher photo I warn you not to go up the purple way. It's terrible.

The first left on the powder blue line from the corner as it hits the purple just keep going straight left until you hit the yellow.

Don't go up that purple unless you value choss.
AP

Trad climber
Calgary
Feb 25, 2009 - 11:24am PT
Great story Roger!
Do you think you climbed well because you didn't want to look bad in Bridwell's eyes? I have found that joining up with really talented climbers can be an inspiration to push beyond the normal limits, even on lead.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 25, 2009 - 11:39am PT
Hey be careful here. The first ascent of "The Crucifix" and the story are by Kevin. I just reposted his account to bring it to the fore and connect it with pictures.

With regard to your question, Bridwell sandbagged all of us youngin's. We climbed great because we were too inexperienced to know better. Also, Jim was both a great teacher without making you feel inferior in any way and had the knack for making you accept that what you were doing was normal. He always kept a sharp eye on everything, but we climbed towards his best standard.

A ratty rope, no pins, no bolts, one quart of water! Read the Frank Sacherer thread for the well spring of the water Jim had 70s climbers like Kevin drink.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 25, 2009 - 11:49am PT
Very nice story by Kevin.
MH2

climber
Feb 25, 2009 - 12:59pm PT
Blue blazes!

As a Valley know-next-to-nothing I asked Robert what that thing was we were passing under and all I got was, "The Crucifix."

Great pictures and write-ups.

(The rock we were on at that moment, the traverse, was the hottest I have ever been on.)
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 25, 2009 - 05:06pm PT
The first photo and the other photo of the route are showing the traverse at different places. I can't remember which way is the correct way.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 25, 2009 - 05:33pm PT
Mark,

> The first photo and the other photo of the route are showing the traverse at different places. I can't remember which way is the correct way.

I haven't done Crucifix, and Tar clearly has! But from his photos, the 5.10c ow is the last pitch before the traverse, and on the previous pitch he has already gone past the band of overhangs where his photo has the lower traverse line in red.
But his photo is taken from below, so it's easier to see the line of overhangs, and harder to see the ledge / higher traverse line.

Best way to find out is to go up there and research it!

The photo I posted has its problems - it is missing the lower part of the climb! (It was meant for showing the upper part of the NE Butress). Here are some more complete photos:


by Dennis Erik Strom, 2005




by Clint, 11/2008




(these photos are clearly straining the capabilities of the point-and-shoot digital cameras - with a better camera and tripod these could be very nice).

I like Don Reid's concise description in the current guidebook:
"This wild climb is played out on a beautiful mosaic wall."
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 25, 2009 - 05:45pm PT
I tried to put my red line where your red line was.
Plus there was no red line there when we did it,
so I doubt it's in the right place anyhow...
Dr.Sprock

Boulder climber
Sprocketville
Feb 25, 2009 - 06:59pm PT
Anybody do that big roof?
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Feb 25, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
I cleaned and climbed the thin vertical crack midway between The Crucifix crux and the Northeast Buttress a few years ago. It goes at 11+ with a toprope and dirty holds. Clean, it would be excellent thin crack, stemming and face moves, protectable with gear.... weather might have cleaned it up pretty good by now. A wild but easy traverse right to the Crucifix would eliminate the 5.12 moves off the ledge, and put you at the base of the steep fist crack.


I was up there with Randy Leavitt and Doug Englekirk, while I was doing that, they were exploring the freeclimbing possibilities above in the blank right facing corner leading to the roof. They were thwarted, but I think the first pitch off the ledge is worthy as a variation to The 'Fix.

PS - Nice quality photos, Clint. Is there anything you don't have a photo of? You're amazing!
Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Feb 26, 2009 - 07:54am PT
Dang, that's a great line!
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 26, 2009 - 08:13am PT
I keep coming back to this thread for the pictures and commentary, especially Kevin's first ascent account. Classic stone, classic route, classic first ascent story.
drljefe

climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
May 16, 2010 - 11:39am PT
BUMP!

This is one of my favorite threads.
Make sure to click the links.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 16, 2010 - 01:36pm PT
Great thread! This classic tough is still on my wishlist...
Pate

Trad climber
May 16, 2010 - 05:49pm PT
Nice bump! Killer thread.
rrider

climber
Mckinleyville, Ca
May 16, 2010 - 06:07pm PT
amen, brothers
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
May 16, 2010 - 06:14pm PT
Reading Kevin's narrative really gives that sense of a first ascent. You just don't know what's up there. It is a whole different game.

Fuzzywuzzy

climber
suspendedhappynation
May 18, 2010 - 09:09am PT
McClenehan pre-cowboy. But he was always a bit "western".

Great stories. Thanks to Roger- and Kevin.

Jim's ratty 9mm - remember Dale pitching off Catchy Corner? Same rope??? Ha

Kevin - when did you do Plumbline?
Norwegian

Trad climber
Placerville, California
May 18, 2010 - 09:22am PT
...tarbuster hangin off a fingerlock, untieing from the rope, then pulling it thru all his hear... sending down a free end to his partner... pulling up some gear to make an anchor! all while hangin from a finger lock.

that's thick gravy, tar.
nutjob

Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
May 18, 2010 - 11:24am PT
Clint: The green line should go at the leftmost edge of the light colored rock that is the slab above the mantel (the lower left corner of that light colored triangle).


Last weekend le_bruce and I did the yellow to green to purple to yellow variation on NEB HCR. Some beta at the point where yellow, red, and green diverge:

1) Going left (yellow) involves a blank near-vertical corner with no crack in back for ~ 10 feet, to a slab, before the good crack to top. It looked pretty hard with unprotected fall, but home-free if you get through that brief ugly bit.

2) Going straight up red looked fairly obvious but more pure OW than chimney and more technical than other parts of the route. And it blanks out before the top (must be the 10c face part). I thought it was supposed to be 5.7 chimney for some reason, but looking at it I immediately assessed it as 5.10OW (but thought maybe my tiredness was affecting my judgment).

3) Going right/green (which we did) crux is an awkward mantel to slab with chicken-scratch for fingertips to help claw over in a precarious balance, and you'll hit the ledge below if you go for it and blow it. We got hung up for 30+ mins on this 10-foot section after blazing through the climb up to the second traverse. If there is a finger crux, it is right at the point of separation between yellow/red/green on the left side (sort of like lower part of Sacherer Cracker), then an awkward step across right and follow a ways up the wide crack that is part of the red line, then exit to right and downclimb an easy pinnacle and then you're at the mantle.


Crucifix sure looks cool, and pretty far out of my league! Amazing stories here.
G Murphy

Trad climber
Oakland CA
May 18, 2010 - 11:35am PT
I've done it 3 or 4 times. It's as good as it gets. The 5.12- section is a short boulder problem and the 5.11c stemming pitch up high leading to the ear thing is awesome.
Greg
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
May 18, 2010 - 12:40pm PT
How is Crucifix compared to Astroman/Rostrum. Is it big step up?
Assuming you aided 11d/12b sections - do you still need to be in better physical shape to do this route?
philo

Trad climber
Somewhere halfway over the rainbow
May 30, 2010 - 07:52am PT
What a great TR. Love your picks Roy.
Chief

climber
May 30, 2010 - 08:44am PT
Great pictures, great stories, Roy that's totally cowboy!
Did most of the Stonemaster classics but never The Crucifix.
Had to settle for Powerpoint with The Gambler in 97. I'll never forget coming around the corner to John's hanging belay where the route joins the Crucifix. One of the most exposed places I've ever been and we're hanging off TCUs and Aliens! Didn't even clip in, just started beefing it up before taking the roof straight on, which did protect well and wasn't too bad.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Jun 27, 2010 - 02:04pm PT
Honnold just soloed this thing!?

http://verticalventures.com/blog/2010/06/breaking-news-update-honnold-solos-the-crucifix-in-yosemite/
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jun 27, 2010 - 11:14pm PT
Alexey...

The Cricifix, you and me bro...

Lets do it!
Alexey

Trad climber
San Jose, CA
Jun 28, 2010 - 07:12am PT
Chud, thanks for trust, difficult to resist, need to train more after vacations, next season maybe?
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Jun 28, 2010 - 08:12pm PT
Stared at it from the NE Butt many, many times with lust in my heart.

Finally got to go there with somebody I thought could take the sharp end on the dicier leads.

The one pitch I refused in advance to lead was the "10d scary" high on the route. I mean, if it says 10d scary on that route, it must mean something.

Naturally, my partner set up a clustered belay that he couldn't escape just below what I thought was the 10d scary so I was forced to lead it anyway. I didn't hesitate to employ my bilingual climbing talents to it and it wasn't a bit scary that way.

Perhaps he had already done some of the scary parts. Getting to the belay I pulled on this hold/inset block and it started to slide out in my hands like a drawer..Scary!

Peace

Karl
Salamanizer

Trad climber
The land of Fruits & Nuts!
Jun 28, 2010 - 11:59pm PT
"Trad" climbing is about saying,... YES!

Honnold told me that the first year he ever climbed on real rock... in like 2005 or so.

There's truth to those words.
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
Sep 21, 2010 - 05:09pm PT
Alex has finally spoken up about his solo of the Crucifix.
bearbreeder

climber
Sep 21, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
"ďI was told to add a disclaimer to this essay, so that no random beginner attempts to free solo a big wall. Frankly, I donít really think itís necessary, because if someone is psyched on soloing, and truly enjoys the whole experience, theyíll probably be ok. And if they arenít really ready for it, everything will just be overwhelmingly scary. But just in case: Kids, donít solo big walls- unless you really like it, and you feel super comfortable on granite. . . ď"

did he wear approach shoes for the entire climb ... the photo shows it ... hmmmm

http://sportiva.com/LIVEphotos/images/9-15-10_LIVE/ClimbersLounge_WEB/ClimbersLounge_2.jpg

Mark Hudon

Trad climber
Hood River, OR
Sep 21, 2010 - 06:10pm PT
I really, really NEED to do this route again!
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Sep 21, 2010 - 07:42pm PT
So Alex had already climbed Crucifix on the same day he soloed it. That's gotta make it easier and harder at the same time! Don't guys like him get tired? Geez.

Still, there's no way Crucifix is overall harder than Astroman, and if you cheat the hardest cruxes on Crucifix, the Rostrum seems comparable and longer.

Feeling kinda weak just thinking about it

Peace

Karl

eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Sep 21, 2010 - 07:47pm PT
Just scoped out those pictures again. Man, what a route - it has it all...a long, interesting and beautiful line, lots of 5.10 and 5.11 climbing, a spot-on name...
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Feb 7, 2011 - 06:01pm PT
Mid-winter look at good pictures bump.

Reminded of this thread by the East Corner of Higher Spire TR
Elcapinyoazz

Social climber
Joshua Tree
Jan 12, 2012 - 02:57pm PT
Stoked on the Crucifix bump.
Jaybro

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Jan 12, 2012 - 04:04pm PT
Power point is a cool alternative, as well
cultureshock

Trad climber
Mountain View
Apr 24, 2012 - 12:20pm PT
Conditions bump. Is this dry in the spring?

Thanks!
JEleazarian

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 24, 2012 - 12:33pm PT
Feeding my climbing lust while I'm still recovering from Achilles tendon surgery is downright mean. I love the pictures on this thread.

If you really want to study the routes on HCR around the NE Buttress, climb Higher Spire and take along a small pair of binoculars. You'll see HCR well enough from the top of the Spire to feel fear and desire simultaneously.

John
David Wilson

climber
CA
Apr 24, 2012 - 02:39pm PT
Jaybro - do you happen to have a pic of the big corner on powerpoint ? I've heard that is one burly looking pitch
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Apr 24, 2012 - 04:49pm PT
Luke,

> Is this dry in the spring?

Yes, generally, although I've heard the free crux move may be wet/muddy,
and there is a seasonally wet part of p3 on Mary's Tears noted in the topo.

Here's a recent photo trip report with some topo corrections:
http://climbingsucks.com/2011/11/05/
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Apr 29, 2012 - 08:33pm PT
Going to give it a shot on tuesday- hooooooo boy
bump!
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
May 7, 2012 - 11:59am PT
Wow. That was the best route ever.

We cleaned out all the cobwebs- but the crux still requires cranking on a dirty sloper. Nothing wet.
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
May 7, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
This line looks full value. If there was two routes I could magically do in the valley it would be Crucifix and DNB. Probably will take me over 10 years to do one of these, if ever. Great thread. Good luck to all those that want to do it, and are close to it.
eeyonkee

Trad climber
Golden, CO
Sep 20, 2013 - 04:49pm PT
Crucifix bump. This thread has a bunch of amazing pictures not to mention Kevin's FA story. Supertopo gold.
snowhazed

Trad climber
Oaksterdam, CA
Sep 20, 2013 - 06:47pm PT
Might try again in October....

Best big hands pitch in the valley???
Best big hands pitch in the valley???
Credit: snowhazed
WBraun

climber
Sep 20, 2013 - 06:54pm PT
Mary's Tears to Crucifix and Astroman in a day for real men .....
hooblie

climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
Sep 20, 2013 - 07:00pm PT
breedlove wrote:
Bridwell sandbagged all of us youngin's. We climbed great because we were too inexperienced to know better. Also, Jim was both a great teacher without making you feel inferior in any way and had the knack for making you accept that what you were doing was normal. He always kept a sharp eye on everything, but we climbed towards his best standard.

A ratty rope, no pins, no bolts, one quart of water! Read the Frank Sacherer thread for the well spring of the water Jim had 70s climbers like Kevin drink.

great stuff roger and thanks photogs! mighty airy
mctwisted

Trad climber
e.p.
Sep 20, 2013 - 08:02pm PT
croft and shultz cruising, shot taken from the big roof up high
croft and shultz cruising, shot taken from the big roof up high
Credit: mctwisted
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