Road to The Nose - Checklist of learning to aid


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Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 08:38pm PT
I just added an image to the top that gives a visual of the process of getting up The Nose

Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
Feb 17, 2009 - 08:58pm PT
Thanks for the diagram Chris! I'm somewhere towards the end of the first month on that chart! Just need to get out there. Snow sucks....
David Nelson

San Francisco
Feb 18, 2009 - 12:05am PT
Chris, lots of fun, should achieve your goal of less bailing.

I think that you should also put in that they read John Dill's Staying Alive essay and maybe the thread here on ST that we all put together after the sad death of the two Japanese climbers, analyzing what went wrong. There are facts there that just don't appear elsewhere, such as considering communication with a ground party (I say "considering" because some felt that such a safety line compromised the essence of committing yourself; personally, I don't agree, but I am not trying to tell anyone how to do their thing, just open their mind to things they might not have thought of) and the fact that Camp VI is a waterfall in a what elsewhere on the Captain is a slight drizzle.

Cheers. Glad to see you are thinking climbing, not base jumping or worse, wingsuiting!

Trad climber
Currently Nomadic
Apr 17, 2009 - 10:12pm PT
Hey chris (and others)

Do you have any rough guidelines for how fast is "fast" or "fast enough" (not talking hans/yuji speed here) for doing the nose at a nice clip (say 3 days)?

Eg roughly how many feet/min for leading c1, Following, etc.

How do I know when I'm going fast enough rather than just "faster than I used to go when I was slow". Obviously there are no hard and fast rules here but thoughts on ranges would be insteresting.

Thanks again for the inspiring roadmap - I think I may be somewhere around month 2.

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Apr 17, 2009 - 10:32pm PT
Chris - You raise the bar on the genre.

Nice - I doubt I will ever get into aid climbing, but if I do, I'll know the first stop!

The guide books rock, too.

Maybe you should publish guides to other crags - held to your standards.
Jon Byers

Trad climber
Boulder, CO
Apr 19, 2009 - 09:08pm PT
Hey David N.
Where is that thread you were referring to about the Japanese climbers?

Sport climber
La Crescenta, CA
Apr 15, 2010 - 09:30pm PT
You should add leading some trad pitches or aiding in the dark with a head lamp.

Trad climber
Fresno CA
Apr 16, 2010 - 01:41pm PT

Holy Toledo -- you compressed my first six years of climbing into about six months! Nonetheless, it still looks like a good checklist (with the poop tube and French free comments).

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