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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
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Bump for the power of climbing photography...
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Photo and lead, Jim Bridwell.
Peace
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2017 - 02:52pm PT
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Kim Schmitz leading the RURP Traverse on Zenith here I believe.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 20, 2018 - 05:10am PT
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Bump for fund.
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spudman
Trad climber
hailey, idaho
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Jan 21, 2018 - 06:38pm PT
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Have been wanting to comment for many years on the Outer Limits photo in the Myers book. That is me in that picture not Nic Taylor. George Myers was on rappel taking pictures of Nic on Twilight Zone. I just happened to be on Outer Limits. During the few moments that I could look over to my right, Nic was easily walking up Twilight. I don't even recall him breathing hard. I, on the other hand, was involved in my own personal battle.
From 1976-80 I spent 3-4 months a year in the Valley (spring and fall). The first 2 seasons 5.10 seemed like an unattainable goal that only hard core rock athletes could reach. It must have been spring or fall of 77 that myself and various partners made some tentative forays into this realm. George probably took several rolls of film while also shooting Nic. I'm sure he thought he had a ringside seat to a wild ripper I was going to take.There was no drama on Twilight Zone. I, however was sweating bullets while George was clicking away just 10 - 15 ft. away. I was battling that creeping mental hysteria that builds up and begins to hijack your body. Well above some rattly hex, legs shaking, arms becoming useless, that cold fear/sweat sleeping out of every pore. The moves I recall being straightforward enough but the mental and physical meltdown was rapidly progressing. My homemade harness suddenly seemed inadequate and I did't have the #6 stopper that George casually mentioned was needed for the next piece of pro. After what seemed like an eternity (probably 15 min.) I managed to calm down, stuff the fear away and regain some composure and do the next few moves and on to the belay
This ended up being a pivotal climb for me that ushered in a whole new world of 5.10 cracks that now seemed possible. I had gone right to the edge of falling apart and somehow reversed the process. The next several years this became one of the standard climbs along with other classics like English Breakfast Crack. Gripper , the Good Book, New D., Little Wing , Serenity and more. Not all were climbed with grace but none of the emotional drama on Outer Limits. To me, this climb and photo represent what is so essential to Yosemite climbing; that mental battle of controlling fear combined with confidence that only comes from years and miles of granite.
In some publications this photo is accompanied by a quote from Molly Higgins " ..elegant, strong, sure as a cat and fast." I always get a chuckle out of that.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jan 21, 2018 - 07:21pm PT
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^^^ GOLD!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 21, 2018 - 09:12pm PT
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..elegant, strong, sure as a cat and fast. ^^^
Ha ha. That's some good irony!
And the whole post is pretty darn great considering how it fills in the back story of that iconic photograph.
Anybody who owns that book should be stoked to print out your narrative and slide it in there.
And only your second offering to the forum: cheers for making them count!
Rock on, Spudman/Reid Dowdle!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 11:04pm PT
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I started climbing too late to be tuned in to this book, but tons of iconic pictures I recognize.
To me, this climb and photo represent what is so essential to Yosemite climbing; that mental battle of controlling fear combined with confidence that only comes from years and miles of granite.
I love this quote :) The pivotal climb for me like this, was Lunatic Fringe- I was desperate and at my limit but held it together. Outer Limits didn't weight on me in the same way, but then again I had the luxury of cams and pro wherever I wanted it (and I think I had top-roped it a year or two before I led it).
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 22, 2018 - 08:43am PT
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For my money, old-school Yosemite climbing was best represented by New Dimensions, which had all the techniques, including a little of "the wide" on pitch 2. And of course the tips finish. And all on flawless gray granite. Too bad New D didn't get better coverage in Meyers book. I owe a lot to George, who published all of my early books. He saw the big picture when I didn't.
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Ledge Rat
Trad climber
Michigan
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May 13, 2018 - 11:52am PT
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There’s currently a fairly nice copy of this great book on The Bay for $50.
Jeff
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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May 13, 2018 - 04:48pm PT
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Yosemite Climber was like a Playboy magazine for me--I thought about all those great routes and I was so psyched to get a few of them in. Outer Limits, Quicksilver, Reeds, Rixons, Tyrolean off the Arrow Tip. So happy to have gotten the chance to do those routes- that book was a beacon.
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