Discussion Topic |
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 15, 2009 - 12:46am PT
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Jorge- Endless thanks for your guidebook and picture book efforts. I never tire of looking at Yosemite Climber. Before it came out, this photo spread appeared in Climbing Jan-Feb 1980. A variation on a theme by Meyers.....
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Feb 15, 2009 - 01:04am PT
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Whoever gave Stevie his scanner must be remembered in Heaven, as the guy is a veritable salt mill. Just look at all this stuff he is posting these last 12++ months.. It is effing amazing. I bet Mimi is in on it too!! Gems, never before seen by most. Incredibly invaluable contribution; you know, this stuff otherwise will vanish.
ultrahugs, ph.
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Frank Sanders
Trad climber
Devils Tower. Wyoming
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Feb 15, 2009 - 01:13am PT
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Where is that Mimi dude, anyway???
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2009 - 01:24am PT
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We are defintely a team and it is all in the interests of fun and nostaglia. I relish your tales and recollections equally much.
And a rootin', tootin', shootin' big ole howdy to you too Frank--from Mimi-----dude.
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Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
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Feb 15, 2009 - 02:48am PT
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Cool article. Only the first photo made it into the version of Yosemite Climber which was printed. I read a story here once that most of the first choice photos got destroyed in some accident, and George had to pick a new bunch of photos? [edit: see posts below - stolen from Bridwell's car]
There is a color version of the first one:
It seems to work as well in color as it does in black&white.
George posted it on his thread "a couple graham bed shots":
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=261099
I read here someplace that was taken after Mike Graham had come down from El Cap after running out of food up on the wall and losing a lot of weight.
A fuzzy/modified version of the Short Circuit photo made it into the 1987 Meyers-Reid guidebook.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Feb 15, 2009 - 03:14am PT
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You know, I climbed with George once. . .and I now live in
a house that's only less than a block from where I met George,
in a beautiful Victorian mansion (with gargoyles), in Denver,
in 1975. . .wish he still lived there!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 15, 2009 - 11:57am PT
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The fact that most shots didn't make the book struck me too! Nic is everywhere and the shot of Max and Mark on Gates of Power is sweet (shouldn't it be Gait of Power ala Carlos Castaneda?).
I sure hope those originals didn't get lost in the slide shuffle.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Feb 15, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
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Too funny!
Mike Graham then:
and Mike Graham now:
He looks like his own son! The hair might be different, but the nose is the same.
Yup, pretty sure there are no photos of Max and Mark in Yosemite Climber. It was that book which inspired me to want to become a big wall climber. Although I enjoyed all the photos, it was the El Cap big wall clusterf*ck photos with the portaledges and all the gear that drew me back again and again. At the time, I never considered that one day it would be me. For how could some wanker from Ontario ever hope to climb the mighty El Cap routes of Jim Bridwell?
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 15, 2009 - 01:23pm PT
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Mike was and still is an awesome guy.
Went climbing with him last fall and he still has that awesome fire burning inside him. He can still project his ass way out toward limits that stop ordinary men.
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can't say
Social climber
Pasadena CA
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Feb 15, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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Bridwell told me years ago, that the shots in the book are the backups, as the original set was stolen out of his car IMRC. I'm not sure if it's true or not, but thought I would add to the lore of the book.
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Russ Walling
Social climber
Upper Fupa, North Dakota
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Feb 15, 2009 - 01:30pm PT
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this thread might be my favorite, bump (well, at least for this morning)
That Yosemite Climber book was really something. Too bad I was already way down the path to ruin when it came out, but it really sealed the deal.
Hopefully George (Jorge on the Taco) will post up! He is "the Man" and might even tell us all about that night at the Trade Show and the "quiet" meal we had at the Korean Restaurant. MIght be the only time in the last 20 years I was actively looking in my wallet for a bail bondsman card.
Here's to George!
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WBraun
climber
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Feb 15, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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The original set was stolen. Yes that is true.
He had to basically start over.
Weird someone would want to steal someones photos and slides?
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Feb 15, 2009 - 01:34pm PT
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Stunning architecture...
The sweater that makes eKat's heart beat faster...
Butt bags and ubiquitous headbands...
Fancy footwork...
Yosemite Climber has it all!
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Feb 15, 2009 - 01:40pm PT
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Great posts! You're inspiring me to pull out my collection of Mtn, Climbing, and yes, Summit, magazines from the 70's and sort through them. Are there any other periodicals from that era that would have Yosemite in them?
Keep posting, I'm lovin it!
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Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
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Feb 15, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
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Amen, brother, it has it ALL!!!
Thor
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Mimi
climber
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Feb 15, 2009 - 03:36pm PT
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Yes, Jorge, thanks for all the hard work. I began Valley climbing using each of your guides back to the original two-ring version.
Jorge or anyone, since the oldest guide seems to lack a publication date, when was the first one available for purchase?
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Feb 20, 2009 - 01:47pm PT
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I SO miss my Yosemite Climber book. Lent it to a friend, and never saw it again. Come to think of it...I never saw the friend again either... Maybe he and my book are in a bunker in an undisclosed location.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 20, 2009 - 01:59pm PT
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caylor" I'm totally straight" your not telling eveyone that your first job was a cabin boy on a greek vasoline tanker- hehehehe
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Feb 20, 2009 - 04:41pm PT
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Got a copy of the book that I try to keep in mint condition. As much as I still thumb through the pages for inspiration and memories I never tire of it. I have recently been trying to take it to events and have some of the photos signed by the climbers. I'll be bringing it to the McClenahan gathering in Josh for any of the Stoners who may be in attendance to sign.
It is one of my most prized possessions.
Thanks George....and all who helped make it such a classic piece.
Peace
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 20, 2009 - 05:58pm PT
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Mimi - here's the guidebook rundown as far as I have it...I'm very sure there are missing guides, both old and new.
High Sierra Guide, Voge, 1962. Had a section on Yosemite Valley
Steve Roper 1964
Steve Roper, 1971
George Meyers, pre-1982 (no date in there)
George Meyers, 1982
George Meyers, 1987
Mark and Shirley Spencer, 1988
Don Reid, 1991
Don Reid, 1992
Don Reid, 1993
Don Reid, 1994
Don Reid, 1996
Don Reid, 1998
Don Reid, 1999
SuperTopo, Chris Mac, 2000
Supertopo, multiple authors, 2002?
SuperTopo, multiple authors, 2003
Supertopo, Chris Mac & Erik Sloan, 2005
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BBA
Social climber
West Linn OR
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Feb 20, 2009 - 11:53pm PT
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I have a February 1940 Sierra Club Bulletin with Part IV of a serialization of "A Climber's Guide to the High Sierra" which deals with Yosemite Valley, probably the first guide to the Valley written. Fifty five routes listed. The language in parts of the 1956 version about Yosemite in Hervey Voge's guide is identical to that in the 1940 serialization, but by then there were 91 routes. The writing was done by Richard Leonard and David Brower.
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Bullwinkle
Boulder climber
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Feb 21, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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I spent two days at George's amazing ranch in Colorado this summer scanning his collection for the StoneMasters Book. He's got some incredable work, way more than what he put in the Book and no he's not interested in a reprint of Yosemite Climber, to bad. DF
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Feb 21, 2009 - 12:45am PT
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Yeah this book really got me going into climbing photography along with Galens.. great stuff, great memories. Climbing photography is great stuff from any point of view... thanks George!!!
Tom
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 11:57am PT
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Not to kick sand in your face, Steel, but you are missing Livesey's baby blue topo book that came out prior to the two ring Meyers guide. I haven't seen mine in years. Very rare item. Anybody have one out there?
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Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
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Feb 21, 2009 - 12:42pm PT
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I used to have one of those
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Feb 21, 2009 - 01:00pm PT
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The first page of this thread cracked me up pretty good!
Too funny Caylor…
Kathy did that really happen? There is a faint recollection on something. By the sound of it though I must have really missed the boat. Maybe a good thing, even today I’m getting hunted down by girls from Argentina and Europe. There’s no hiding anymore.
Back to George Meyers here, a man I always appreciated. Here he is on our Sentential Falls ascent.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Feb 21, 2009 - 04:10pm PT
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For those interested, the 'Yosemite Climber' benefit project for Jim Bridwell is underway. I got an email from Chris Falkenstein the other day and the book is making its rounds. Dean Potter, Dale Bard, CF, and Ron Kauk have signed. More to follow. Once all the signatures are gathered an auction will be held to raise funds for Jim. It'll probably be too little, too late, but still a worthy cause. Keep checking in.
Marty
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 21, 2009 - 04:47pm PT
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Livesey's select guide was printed in 1975 or perhaps 1974. Rather oriented toward the visiting English climber.
George's first (green cover) topo guide was published in 1976 - I bought a copy at Robbin's store in Modesto on the way to the Valley in early September that year, and it had just appeared. Perhaps because my mother was a librarian, I wouldn't let people remove pages or otherwise dismember my copy, and so still have it in fairly good shape. Everyone had many happy hours in the long autumn nights in the lounge, poring over the guide and dreaming.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 08:04pm PT
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Roger- would you mind posting the topos around the Central Pillar of Frenzy for grins?!?
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Anastasia
climber
Not here
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Feb 21, 2009 - 08:50pm PT
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Hats off to the great George Meyers!!! Thanks for being you!
Beyond that...
Blinny...
Don't we all get stupid-silly around people we are attracted to? Your story makes me laugh since it reflects a few people I know. (They are so fantastic and don't even "know it!" )
I think Graham in the end was just saving himself without knowing it for that beautiful wife of his. Now that is a woman worth her salt! I really like her.
:)AF
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Feb 21, 2009 - 09:38pm PT
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No problem Steve - no sand taken. Just posting up a sampling.
I know I don't have 'em all...I'd take a wild guess that Randy V. probably has some pretty early stuff for Yosemite that not many even know about. I know he does for Tahq.
Love to have even a xeroxed copy of that Livesey deal, Roger...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Feb 21, 2009 - 10:16pm PT
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It is late here in Roger-in-the-snow land and it takes lots of time for my 3036 to process the scans, so if it is okay, I'll scan tomorrow.
Given the apparent scarcity of copies Livesey's topo book, I think that Steve should get possession. I defaced it by adding my name on the table of contents page.
All agreed.
Motion taken.
Steve, please e-mail me an address.
Cheers, Roger
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Feb 21, 2009 - 10:24pm PT
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hey there george/jorge... say, you are a most kind guy! only know you from here---thanks for letting me use the chappy-tree-climbing pic to post in the tree thread... :)
*figure i can send it to him, by email, to see, too, i would reckon! thanks and god bless!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 21, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
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Thanks for the offer Roger but mine will show up. All that wanders is not lost....
The 1992 Proto-bouldering guide.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Mar 16, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
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Update on the Bridwell/Yosemite Climber project: After a full three weeks by cloven hoof, the book has made its way from Chris Falkenstein in the Valley to Peter Mayfield in Donner Summit and is now on its way to Ventura and Mike Graham. Thanks so much everyone who's taken an interest and is contributing something for the Bird.
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graham
Social climber
Ventura, California
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Mar 16, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
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I'll be looking for it
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elcap-pics
climber
Crestline CA
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Mar 16, 2009 - 09:36pm PT
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Yeah a great book... inspired me to keep on keeping on and improve my photographic efforts... thanks to you George!!
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 29, 2009 - 08:05pm PT
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bump climb bump
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 29, 2009 - 08:13pm PT
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And Grind your Meat!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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May 19, 2009 - 09:30am PT
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May "Yosemite Climber"/Jim Bridwell benefit project update:
I got word from Ammon this weekend that he'd received the book and it was on its way to John Bachar in Mammoth. The autograph count now includes Mike Graham, John Long, Bullwinkle, and Mark Hudon among others. I'll post news on where to bid when it gets to that stage.
Thanks for taking an interest.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 19, 2009 - 05:35pm PT
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Must have missed this thread earlier, and agree with Mike that George is a mensch. George calls the book the “high school yearbook” of the valley in the 70’s. It captures like no other publication the spirit and energy of that era.
Those of us who were there are fortunate that George had the gumption to take on the project and chronicle that time for our memories and our grandchildren. My favorite photo is George’s of Bachar and Gib Lewis on Orangutan Arch, with the climbers in the sun in front of looming, dark depths behind; a really fantastic picture.
By the way, the leader in the Meat Grinder photo is Werner himself, with me belaying. I still remember how he floated up it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - May 21, 2009 - 12:25am PT
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Very cool tidbit of photo history, Ricky!
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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May 21, 2009 - 12:32am PT
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That was the closest Max and I got to being in the book. Notice though, that Max is taking a photo of me. His photo later appeared as a painting on the cover of Mountain Magazine.
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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May 21, 2009 - 02:56am PT
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As long as we are reminiscing, the last time I saw George Meyers both his eyes were swollen almost shut.
It wasn't totally something he did, although he was obnoxiously drunk that night. He insulted a friend of mine and I stepped in to object and he called me an as#@&%e. I asked him to repeat that and he made the mistake of doing so.
Herbert pulled me off, but the scuffle reignited in the guide's kitchen and TM burned his hand on the very warm wood stove trying to pull me away. There was an underlying prejudice that probably set me off. Not George's fault - he messed with my girl friend. Her bad.
I apologized sincerely the next morning when I confronted him in the parking area. God, he was a mess. I bet he doesn't even remember that occurrence.
There were a bunch of guide's wives and girl friends in the kitchen that night and they all hated me for being so aggressive.
They loved George, I was the as#@&%e.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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May 21, 2009 - 10:35am PT
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Don,
I had to read your story a few times to try to make sense of it.
At times it seems that you are sincerely sorry for attacking George, but at other times you assert that George was at fault because he provoked you by impugning your dignity ("It wasn't totally something he did, although he was obnoxiously drunk at the time;" “he made the mistake [of repeating the insult to you];” “there was an underlying prejudice [by George against you] that probably set me off; ” and the most outrageous one: “ Not George’s fault-he messed with my girlfriend. Her bad ” ). So it was your girlfriend’s fault for provoking George, who provoked you? I see.
The title of this thread is an “appreciation” of George, so you thought this would be an appropriate time and place to share this little anecdote?
Don, I have to agree with George, the guides’ wifes and the girlfriends.
Rick
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 19, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
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You can take my wallet, and you can take my rope.
You can take my EB's and you can smoke my dope.
But just don't call me Yabo....man!
The only other tesimonial to the Silver Age besides the upcoming Stonemasters chronicle!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 10, 2009 - 06:33pm PT
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PhilG, DR, Grossman, Donini, etc...who has the book at this point? I got an email that Tom Higgins was passing it along. Just wondering where it's landed.
http://www.yosemiteclimber.blogspot.com
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Oct 27, 2009 - 11:19am PT
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Folks,
Got word that Pat Ament and Jim Donini have signed and the book is still making the rounds. Pictures and an auction to follow before Y3K.
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Gagner
climber
Boulder
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Oct 27, 2009 - 11:48am PT
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As a teenager in the 70's growing up in the Bay Area and climbing in Yosemite I devoured every word and every photo in Yosemite Climber. It was really an inspirational book and I strived to do all the routes and follow in the footsteps of the pioneers and dirtbags shown in it. Even today I love to pull it out and get nostalgic about how much of an influence it had on my teen years.
Paul
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2009 - 12:54pm PT
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I am totally with you, Paul. Yos Climber was the Book of Dreams II, the first being Galen's Vertical World of Yosemite. The power of photos to inspire!
I have the Book of Bird presently and it goes to Phil G as soon as he drops out of 1096 for us again! LOL
Edit: out to Phil on 11/3. Check the group e-mail for an update. I didn't photograph my entry for the Blog but it is next to the shot of Ron Fawcett on Space Babble.
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john bald
climber
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Oct 27, 2009 - 05:46pm PT
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Sold all my old guides and assorted climbing books to Chessler many years ago. Only kept one....Yosemite Climber! Now it shares my bare shelf with the new classic Stonemaster book. Thanks for all the memories....John
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
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Oct 27, 2009 - 06:11pm PT
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Yosemite Climber was published in 1979 - my copy says "copyright (c) George Meyers, 1979".
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Toker Villain
Big Wall climber
Toquerville, Utah
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Oct 27, 2009 - 06:56pm PT
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I'm not giving up my Yosemite Climber, but I just took possession of Kyle Copelands 1987 copy of Yosemite Climbs by Meyers and Reid.
Does anybody want to bid on it if the proceeds go to help Layton Kor?
(His signature would be included as an endorsement on the check.)
Would this make a separate thread?
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 21, 2009 - 11:42am PT
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I have a copy of "Yosemite Climber" on my tall books shelf along with a few other climbing picture books. When I have looked at it, it never really sang; just us kids having fun so long ago. However, when I got the copy being passed around, all the signatures brought it to life; very personal and immediate.
The signatures and comments so far:
Mike Graham
Doug Robinson
Peter Croft
Tom Higgins
Vern Clevenger
George Meyers
Mark Hudon
Don Lauria
Peter Mayfield
Pat Ament
Jim Donini
Phil Gleason
Chris Falkenstien
John Bachar
Mark Chapman
Russ Walling
Ron Kauk
Steve Grossman
Dale Bard
Ken Yager
Ammon McNelley
Bill Sermish (spelling?)
Steve Schneider
John Long
Peter Haan
Roger Breedlove
Rick Accomazzo
Steve Sutton
Spencer Lennard
Additional names of climbers near and dear to the heart of the 70s:
Larry Zulim (on list)
Barb Eastman (on list)
Dave Diegelman (on list. Last to sign per request from Marty Roberts.)
Catherine Cullinane (on list)
Molly Higgins (through Catherine Cullinane)
Kim Schmitz (through Catherine Cullinane)
Hugh Burton (through Catherine Cullinane)
Jim Pettigrew (on list)
Rik Reider (on list)
Kevin Worrell (on list)
Ellie Hawkins (no response to e-mail)
Chris Vandiver (no contact information)
Werner Braun (no response to e-mail)
Richard Harrison (no response to phone message)
John Dill (hopefully someone can get an address for John)
Royal Robbins (no response to e-mail)
my e-mail is roger.breedlove(at)us.hilite.com
Edit: updated 21 Nov 3PM Valley Time
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Nov 21, 2009 - 02:31pm PT
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Got the book, Roger.
Spencer Lennard was in town, so I got his signature on the photo where he is leading Anticipation.
Steve Sutton is a commercial pilot and he added his signature on a couple El Cap shots when he dropped in at the Broomfield airport this morning. Great to catch up with him.
I will send it on its way Monday. Who wants it next?
Rick
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2009 - 02:37pm PT
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To send it Priority as I packaged it and include tracking info, it helps to shorten the transit distances so please keep that in mind as this moves along and don't opt for media rate in any case.
Cheers
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 21, 2009 - 02:55pm PT
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What a great picture of Steve. Thanks for getting him signed up. I would send it to someone close on the list. I agree with Steve about using prority mail. It needs to keep moving and not get lost. Cool to see all those names, isn't it?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2009 - 03:39pm PT
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Spencer on Anticipation. Who wouldn't want to give it a go after seeing this classic shot?
George Meyers photo.
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steveA
Trad climber
bedford,massachusetts
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Nov 21, 2009 - 08:57pm PT
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Does anyone know where George lives? I did the Nose with him in the early 70's. Many fond memories! Is he still climbing?
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mark miller
Social climber
Reno
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Nov 21, 2009 - 10:42pm PT
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That Damn Book ruined many lifes.........Made us all want to be the "Bloke" in the pictures.....I got my copy in '79' and quit learning school from it's inception.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Nov 30, 2009 - 08:15pm PT
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Rick,
Fantastic! If you can, please take a few digital photos or scans of the updated pages so I can add them to the blog: http://yosemiteclimber.blogpsot.com
May thanks,
Marty
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Watusi
Social climber
Newport, OR
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Nov 30, 2009 - 08:37pm PT
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Yeah, between Vertical World and Yosemite Climber, my down... (on Earth,)time was completely absorbed by these two!
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Feb 11, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
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New updates viewable now -- http://yosemiteclimber.blogspot.com/
Hands to the sun for Roger Breedlove and all his work pushing this project in many cool new directions to many more cool people.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Feb 11, 2010 - 09:56pm PT
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I have my mint condition, '79 copy of "Yosemite Climber" that George gave me as compensation for my photo (#9) of El Cap. It sits on my bookshelf between Rowell's "Vertical World..." and Ascent IV, 1984. They've helped me feel connected to Yosemite climbing all these years that I've been here in Hawaii.
I'm very sorry to hear about Bridwell's medical challenges. He and I did the first one-day ascent of Quarter Domes together. That seems so insignificant looking back from here... I'd be honored to sign this book that's traveling around on Jim's behalf.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Mar 13, 2010 - 02:15pm PT
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Hi all,
I'm working on another Yosemite Climber-related project with Roger Breedlove and would love to gather some more anecdotes/reflections/stories connected with this book. You can post here, post a comment at yosemiteclimber.blogspot.com, or email me directly at my gmail account (jackalope415). Many thanks in advance.
Marty
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Mar 13, 2010 - 02:57pm PT
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Here's a list of my cherished friends that have signed my Yosemite Climber:
Yvon Chouinard, Mike Graham, Charlie Raymond, Joe Fitschen, Vern Cleavenger, Royal Robbins, Jerry Gallwas, Mike Sherrick, Roger Derryberry, Maria Cranor, Jeff Lowe, Dave Schultz, Dale Bard, Jeff Stubbs, Peter Croft, Don Lauria, Glen Denny, Ellie Hawkins, Rick Accomazzo, Spencer Lennart,John Bald, Clark Jacobs, Dean Fidelman, Kevin Worrall, John Bachar, Tyrus Bachar, Dave Yerian, Ronnie Kauk, Jane Sievert, Robs John Muir, Hugh Burton, Dave Wonderly, Jim Bridwell and John Long.
Will continue to try to get more!
Peace
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Mar 13, 2010 - 03:47pm PT
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Ron--all I can say is WOW!
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Mar 13, 2010 - 03:54pm PT
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Thanks Marty, of all the things I have climbing wise.....this is my most prized piece. MANY,MANY great memories, times and friends from this one place. I look at this book at least once every couple weeks, my mental therapy! There's still some people I'd like to have sign it, hope I get the chances to meet them.
Peace
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 20, 2010 - 09:35am PT
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Just in time for the big JT shindig, Ken Boche's John Hancock has been added to the Yosemite Climber blog. If you're there, take a look.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Apr 20, 2010 - 03:06pm PT
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As a humorous aside, part of the odd fun with setting up the Yosemite Climber project site has been moderating the spam/phish in the comments section. The first one -- Phil Gleason's page --got through, and now I get a regular barrage of Japanese softcore "posts" on George Meyer's page. Ken Boche seems to have generated the same interest! Did you guys know you had fans overseas?
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Apr 20, 2010 - 05:02pm PT
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It was SO AWE-INSPIRING to receive the Signature copy of Yosemite Climber and to peruse its pages and see the comments and signatures of many whom I knew and those whom I've (sort of) come to know here on the Taco. I feel honored to be a part of this project, and I hope it is successful in helping Jim's situation.
I sat down with my daughter and the book and we looked at the pictures and signatures together, and it gave her further appreciation of my upbringing and the life-style that we all have led. She's only been to the Valley once, and she is not at all inclined toward outdoor sports, unfortunately, but she does know how much my life as a climber influence the man that I've become.
I regret that I won't be able to attend the Sacherer Memorial or the BridwellFest, but my life here prevents it at this time.
I send my aloha to you all.
Ken
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OR
Trad climber
VT
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Apr 20, 2010 - 05:07pm PT
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I recently found a box of old books in my Attic which included my Yosimite Climber and Meyers ring binder guide with the green cover. Very happy!!! On coffee table now.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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May 16, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
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Some new images have been added, and more are on their way. If you´re in the Valley for the Sacherer shin-dig and can find Roger Breedlove, he´ll have the book to show off. Extra surprises coming soon!
http://yosemiteclimber.blogspot.com/
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Trad climber
Will know soon
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Jul 19, 2010 - 12:49pm PT
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How would one get ahold of George Meyers ? Is it possible ? Thanks, lynne
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Weis
Social climber
Evergreen, CO
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Sep 13, 2010 - 04:07pm PT
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Hey everyone, this is George's daughter, it was so funny to read these threads and see how cool my dad was, and still is!! I actually asked him about the 'Black eye" incident, and he denies it ever happened...
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Sep 13, 2010 - 04:16pm PT
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Well of course he denies it; he is a good dad. Former climber dads are all good deniers.
How do we know which sister you are? When I visited your parents a few years ago at the Santa Marie, you guys were away at college.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 13, 2010 - 04:48pm PT
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Climbers knew about plausible deniability long before Bush, Cheney and those prevaricators. We first had to be economical with the truth with our mothers, which is hardest of all. Good practice for later work and family life. Of course, they all knew what we were up to anyway, but that's another story.
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BooDawg
Social climber
Polynesian Paralysis
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Sep 13, 2010 - 05:34pm PT
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George is lucky to have a daughter who appreciates his past and thinks he's cool. A lot of us think George is WAY COOL too!
My daughter doesn't ask anything about my past, so I don't have to deny anything. The down-side is that sometimes I feel like she'll never know me... However, I did show her some of my early climbing stuff that I've posted here on ST. She actually did seem interested. But I have no idea if she thinks I am/was cool or what???
Though my dad got me into climbing, my mom didn't want to know much either, so I never had to deny much either... Ahh Life!
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Sep 13, 2010 - 05:38pm PT
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One of the interesting things about the "Climbing at Squamish in the 1970s" thread (I'm told) is that several friends' children avidly followed it, to read about what their fathers were up to then, at least in part.
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tweedle dee
Boulder climber
Evergreen Colorado
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Nov 29, 2010 - 05:11pm PT
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Heyo everybody this is george's other daughter. Was just wondering if anybody could tell me any fantastic stories about him that i could tease him about?! I love hearing new things about him. It tickles me pink to be able to google his name and then see his books and photos here!
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 29, 2010 - 05:43pm PT
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tweedle dee
Ask dad to tell you the story of the big fight with the construction rednecks in front of the Mountain room bar (Mulligan kicks redneck ass).
After the big fight Dad and Mulligan have to run up the Steck Salathe for alibi from the cops.
Heh heh heh it's a real good one ......
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Nov 29, 2010 - 06:48pm PT
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An old tale from long ago:
One of Chockstone's authors told me a story of visiting Meyers, and Meyers complaining about another author's manuscript being far too long.
How will you edit it down? The author asked (or words to that effect). He added, You can't just edit whole pages out.
Just watch me! came the reply (or a similar phrase), followed instantly by arbitrary deletion of the requisite number of pages.....
At their best, coffee table climbing books can capture the aspirations and achievements of an entire community. A simple photo book is over with too fast, a smaller-scale text-driven book cannot convey the magnificent scenery that is such a part of the experience. Yosemite Climber artfully weaves photos and text together in a vivid snapshot of the time and place that's also a timeless celebration of why we climb.
Superb.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 4, 2012 - 10:32pm PT
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Meyers Bump...
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
merced, california
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This is nice to see. What was nice to see, as well, was a copy of George's book, from the English publisher Diadem, and Robbins' own publishing firm. I had not had a chance many years back to really look but last week in Simi, as Jim's caretaker, I had lots of climbing titles to check in his library, found YC, and took a good long look and remembered...
Pettigrew's bouldering in Camp 4. He was so smooth and had strength-to-weight ratio points to the max. It was, I think, my favorite shot. Such a hard man with gentle demeanor.
We owe you one for all that effort, George, back when it all got done via snail mail. Quite a project back in them days. In this time of 4G-gitter-done-now and "back in the day," it is hard to believe it got done eventually and over several weeks, not one day.
Times change. Ask Alex and Hans.
One icon is W-B-L in their go-to-meeting clothes after getting the ball rolling on speed ascents. Posers! :)
It was in there, right? Not getting that old CRS, am I?
Consider yourself appreciated, George. Whatever happened to the Topo Binder from the Mountain Shop? Eh? Waiting to put it on ebay?
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Rockin' Gal
Trad climber
Boulder
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Love Yosemite Climber. Looking at it now, still sets the bar high. Somehow I possess a large format, framed photo of Nic Taylor on Twilight Zone that causes people to ask, "Is that you?" I wish it was!
I went to George's place in Evergreen a number of times when I was writing the Needles/Domelands/Sequoia series. Invariably, he was making bill collection calls to his vendors as I worked with the book editor attempting not to cut too many pages.
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marty(r)
climber
beneath the valley of ultravegans
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Jul 24, 2012 - 08:53pm PT
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For anyone still interested in the signature gathering project that I started, here are a few image updates on the blog. I'll be getting the book to Ken soon where it will soon reside in perpetuity.
Many, many thanks to everyone who has helped over the past few years. This wouldn't have been possible without you!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 03:30pm PT
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Book Bump...
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 28, 2013 - 02:03pm PT
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Bump for current contact info for George.
I need permission to use a few photos for the Oakdale Festival poster.
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Andy Fielding
Trad climber
UK
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This is the one that had me hooked. 33 years after buying this book and staring at this picture I finally climbed Outer Limits.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 21, 2016 - 01:51pm PT
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Bump for the man on the iconic cover photo, Kim Scmhitz cleaning the RURP traverse on Zenith. Somebody please scan and post it up here and on the memorial thread. I am away from the archive at the moment.
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Sep 21, 2016 - 04:00pm PT
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Yeah Ron Gomez, you should take your copy to the antiques roadshow appraisers, not that you would part with it!
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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Sep 21, 2016 - 04:41pm PT
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Life changer for me
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survival
Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
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Sep 21, 2016 - 05:16pm PT
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One of the great inspiration books of all time.
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Minerals
Social climber
The Deli
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Sep 21, 2016 - 06:47pm PT
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I scanned this last night but didn’t have time to post it. Werner posted a cropped/original version on the Kim Schmitz memorial thread this afternoon.
Photo by Bridwell, FA of Zenith, pitch 15, Half Dome, 1978
Ron, cool to see all of the additions to your copy. Jeff Stubbs is my Mom’s cousin.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2017 - 06:55pm PT
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Bump for the power of climbing photography...
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ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
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Photo and lead, Jim Bridwell.
Peace
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2017 - 02:52pm PT
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Kim Schmitz leading the RURP Traverse on Zenith here I believe.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Jan 20, 2018 - 05:10am PT
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Bump for fund.
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spudman
Trad climber
hailey, idaho
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Jan 21, 2018 - 06:38pm PT
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Have been wanting to comment for many years on the Outer Limits photo in the Myers book. That is me in that picture not Nic Taylor. George Myers was on rappel taking pictures of Nic on Twilight Zone. I just happened to be on Outer Limits. During the few moments that I could look over to my right, Nic was easily walking up Twilight. I don't even recall him breathing hard. I, on the other hand, was involved in my own personal battle.
From 1976-80 I spent 3-4 months a year in the Valley (spring and fall). The first 2 seasons 5.10 seemed like an unattainable goal that only hard core rock athletes could reach. It must have been spring or fall of 77 that myself and various partners made some tentative forays into this realm. George probably took several rolls of film while also shooting Nic. I'm sure he thought he had a ringside seat to a wild ripper I was going to take.There was no drama on Twilight Zone. I, however was sweating bullets while George was clicking away just 10 - 15 ft. away. I was battling that creeping mental hysteria that builds up and begins to hijack your body. Well above some rattly hex, legs shaking, arms becoming useless, that cold fear/sweat sleeping out of every pore. The moves I recall being straightforward enough but the mental and physical meltdown was rapidly progressing. My homemade harness suddenly seemed inadequate and I did't have the #6 stopper that George casually mentioned was needed for the next piece of pro. After what seemed like an eternity (probably 15 min.) I managed to calm down, stuff the fear away and regain some composure and do the next few moves and on to the belay
This ended up being a pivotal climb for me that ushered in a whole new world of 5.10 cracks that now seemed possible. I had gone right to the edge of falling apart and somehow reversed the process. The next several years this became one of the standard climbs along with other classics like English Breakfast Crack. Gripper , the Good Book, New D., Little Wing , Serenity and more. Not all were climbed with grace but none of the emotional drama on Outer Limits. To me, this climb and photo represent what is so essential to Yosemite climbing; that mental battle of controlling fear combined with confidence that only comes from years and miles of granite.
In some publications this photo is accompanied by a quote from Molly Higgins " ..elegant, strong, sure as a cat and fast." I always get a chuckle out of that.
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hooblie
climber
from out where the anecdotes roam
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Jan 21, 2018 - 07:21pm PT
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^^^ GOLD!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Jan 21, 2018 - 09:12pm PT
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..elegant, strong, sure as a cat and fast. ^^^
Ha ha. That's some good irony!
And the whole post is pretty darn great considering how it fills in the back story of that iconic photograph.
Anybody who owns that book should be stoked to print out your narrative and slide it in there.
And only your second offering to the forum: cheers for making them count!
Rock on, Spudman/Reid Dowdle!
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Jan 21, 2018 - 11:04pm PT
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I started climbing too late to be tuned in to this book, but tons of iconic pictures I recognize.
To me, this climb and photo represent what is so essential to Yosemite climbing; that mental battle of controlling fear combined with confidence that only comes from years and miles of granite.
I love this quote :) The pivotal climb for me like this, was Lunatic Fringe- I was desperate and at my limit but held it together. Outer Limits didn't weight on me in the same way, but then again I had the luxury of cams and pro wherever I wanted it (and I think I had top-roped it a year or two before I led it).
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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Jan 22, 2018 - 08:43am PT
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For my money, old-school Yosemite climbing was best represented by New Dimensions, which had all the techniques, including a little of "the wide" on pitch 2. And of course the tips finish. And all on flawless gray granite. Too bad New D didn't get better coverage in Meyers book. I owe a lot to George, who published all of my early books. He saw the big picture when I didn't.
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Ledge Rat
Trad climber
Michigan
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May 13, 2018 - 11:52am PT
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There’s currently a fairly nice copy of this great book on The Bay for $50.
Jeff
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hobo_dan
Social climber
Minnesota
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May 13, 2018 - 04:48pm PT
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Yosemite Climber was like a Playboy magazine for me--I thought about all those great routes and I was so psyched to get a few of them in. Outer Limits, Quicksilver, Reeds, Rixons, Tyrolean off the Arrow Tip. So happy to have gotten the chance to do those routes- that book was a beacon.
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