TR- Beckey -Coonyard BITD


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Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Feb 12, 2009 - 02:10am PT
After my recent posts I am rather reticent to finally post something climbing related that doesn't involve abject imbecility. At the risk of ruining my hard-earned reputation I must confess to having gotten up at least this route. I did have to import help but it was quality of the tartan type - Alan Petit of Gargunnock. I know Petit doesn't sound very Scottish but remember that thing with Mary Queen of Scots? A good part of her posse was imported from south of the Trench.

Anyway, we think we did about the 8th ascent. We saw no sign that anyone had preceeded us except for one soft pin left near the top. It was quite the magical experience...

The Minaret from the col
The 'walk' down to the base from this col proved most unpleasant for Thom Nephew from Seattle later. He stepped on a big boulder which rolled him and broke his back. He did walk again but with some difficulty. Oh, the bivy ledge is at the very top of the Minaret where it joins the main mass of the tower.

An early pitch with the Headwall looming

The start of the 3 or 4 pitch Big Corner

You will note my alpine footwear. I turns out that Alan could wear my EB's with a pair of thick socks which is the way they liked to do it anyway. Talk about a dream team! We each took 5 pitches with the Slave in boots and carrying the pack. It really went quite fast.

Here we are at the foot of the Headwall about 14 pitches up or so, don't quote me. Rather a stunning piece of stone, eh?

This is starting the Headwall.

A tad further but not as far as the wonderful ice-filled chimney. It was just warm enough that we were able to suck a few icicles but the ol' EB's weren't liking it terribly much.

This is Alan wondering where he dropped his sleeping bag and teddy bear. Oh yeah, we didn't bring our teddy bears or sleeping bags. We're a Scot and an Irishman; one doesn't need them and the other doesn't know any better. Actually, upon examining this shot again I realized it isn't the bivy ledge. This was the shoe changeover at the foot of the Headwall.

The real bivy ledge was about 8' x 12', perfectly flat with two sides of it dropping sheer. I have a pic somewhere, but not to hand. This was the sunset from said bivy...

This was the next morning. It was colder than a loan shark's heart! We each had a parka and stuck both our legs in the pack. Then we sang songs all night in German; I went to a Kurt Diemburger slide show once and he said that worked well for him. It would have helped if either of us spoke German.

This is what Snowpatch looks like from the summit.

Le Descente

Down but not out!
Actually, that isn't entirely accurate. We rapped over the 'schrund (ok, I know that much German) and slid on our butts down to this point. From here it was a stroll to the col. Alan went about 75' and went into a crevasse up to his armpits. "Ach, Reilly, woood ya mind tossin' me an end of the wee rrrrrope?"

Adieu Howsers!


Trad climber
Feb 12, 2009 - 02:16am PT

Trad climber
the campfire just a ways past Chris' Taco stand
Feb 12, 2009 - 02:21am PT
Awesome! Highly enjoyable. My favorite line:

"This is Alan wondering where he dropped his sleeping bag and teddy bear. Oh yeah, we didn't bring our teddy bears or sleeping bags. We're a Scot and an Irishman; one doesn't need them and the other doesn't know any better."

Fletch (also an Irishman of sorts)

Trad climber
Iss WA
Feb 12, 2009 - 02:25am PT
BRAVO! EBs and wool knee highs what could be better?

Great pics, thanks Reilly!

San Clemente, CA
Feb 12, 2009 - 02:31am PT
Skully, are you out there? This is the kind of post you have been waiting for. Stellar!
adam d

Feb 12, 2009 - 02:33am PT
Thanks for sharing this great story and pictures. The B-C is an amazing route. It certainly feels more traveled today and less out there, but still a wonderful piece of stone to move over. I'm bummed I didn't take pictures when I was on it!

Cardiff by the sea
Feb 12, 2009 - 02:39am PT
That was Awesome Reilly!!
Delhi Dog

Trad climber
Good Question...
Feb 12, 2009 - 02:41am PT
Cool stuff R.
Thanks for sharing!
Love the pics...

Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Feb 12, 2009 - 03:02am PT
Thank you! When did you climb it? Mid 1970s, I guess?

Maybe I'll scan and post a few slides from an ascent in 1991, if I get a chance.

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 03:03am PT
Anders, I'm pretty sure it was '74.

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 12, 2009 - 03:29am PT
Nice! Looks like your shot of Snowpatch "from the summit" is actually from the top of Bugaboo Spire though.

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 03:36am PT
We're not gonna let a little Alzheimers come between us and journalistic integrity, are we? Maybe I should do an E Ridge of Bug thread to bail myself out?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 12, 2009 - 04:20am PT
Nice! EBs, knickers, nuts & Titons!
That descent down the ridge looks sketch - the rap route used up until last year is fairly friendly - you rap all the way until past the schrund. (Although my lead line hung up partway down it, so and adventure is still possible...).

Besides the correction Cory (cmclean) mentioned, the photo labelled "starting the headwall" is actually about 3 pitches up on the left side of the headwall, so it's slightly out of order, too. It looked almost exactly the same in 2007! (I'll post a photo or two). Meantime, you can use the Edit button to fix up the captions.

Cory & George's 2006 trip report:

actual corner which starts the (left side of) Great White Headwall (Cory's photo):

Descending the gendarme on the Kain route on Bugaboo Spire, 1974 - not ready for the Beckey-Chouinard!!

Great stuff!
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Feb 12, 2009 - 05:05am PT
Here are some photos from 2007 - the route is about the same (maybe that's not surprising). We didn't bivvy, and I wish we had more sun, but it was our one shot to do it before a storm came in.

Steph on 3rd class below the climb

Clint at about p4

Steph below the first 5.10 pitch
(Reilly has a nice shot leading this)

Steph starting to follow the first 5.10 pitch

Below the long midway corner

Leading p2 in the long midway corner
(same as Reilly's photo)

Steph on the crux of p2 of the corner - freeing in her approach shoes with a pack

fist crack on p1 corner left of the Great White Headwall.
(I think I'm trying to booty a green alien here, while Steph freezes in the cold wind...)
(same as Cory's photo)

Steph following our p2 left of Headwall; bivvy sites visible below.
(I started doing 30m pitches, so I could haul both packs separately on the haul line; I didn't want to lead the squeeze with my pack, and kept thinking the squeeze was on the next pitch)

Steph following our p3 left of Headwall

Hauling our p4 left of Headwall (fist crack to short squeeze).
Same as Reilly's photo - same flakes in the left crack!

Rappel route used in 2007.
In 2008 there was a big cornice above it, so people made a new rappel route further north.

Sunrise over Snowpatch from partway down the rappel route on South Howser.
Photo by Steph Abegg

Oakland: what's not to love?
Feb 12, 2009 - 05:13am PT

It's going to be sweet sweet dreams tonight. Thanks for the mindblowing picks!

Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Feb 12, 2009 - 08:13am PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Feb 12, 2009 - 10:08am PT
Ahh, the sweetness! Thanks for posting Bugaboo stories, all!
J. Werlin

Feb 12, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
very cool thank you

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
JW, thanks, I wanted to reply to Clint but I didn't want to invoke the wrath of the Bump Police!

Clint, thanks for filling in the gaps photographically and mnemonically. You've some good shots there too. It is a good thing we didn't know that 3rd pitch or so was 5.10!
Rapping down the ridge was the only option as far as we were concerned. There were actually a few bits of webbing here and there down there.

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Feb 12, 2009 - 12:27pm PT

Thanks Reilly!

Feb 12, 2009 - 03:40pm PT
Ditto on the best line This is Alan wondering where he dropped his sleeping bag and teddy bear. Oh yeah, we didn't bring our teddy bears or sleeping bags. We're a Scot and an Irishman; one doesn't need them and the other doesn't know any better. Actually, upon examining this shot again I realized it isn't the bivy ledge


Close second: it was colder than a loan sharks heart!

Great stuff all around! Thanks for sharing it Reilly.

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Feb 12, 2009 - 03:46pm PT
Ahhhh Reilly, you are on a roll my friend.

You're my new favorite Supertaconian flavor of the month.

Great photos with some fun humor to spice the taco. bucket list just keeps getting longer and longer....

Social climber
No Ut
Feb 12, 2009 - 03:47pm PT
Thanks, Reilly - and Clint, too! Brings back fond memories of a Canadian classic. The backside of the Howsers is a very special place, indeed.


Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Feb 12, 2009 - 04:20pm PT

If my comment gets you to do another TR on the east ridge of Bugaboo, all the better! Thanks for the great pix and TR.

Feb 12, 2009 - 04:50pm PT
Nice enough Reilly and Clint, but where is someone with pictures of the Hut girl sweethearts of the early 80s?

Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
Feb 12, 2009 - 09:48pm PT
Bump for the real deal!

Thanks y'all
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 2, 2009 - 11:13pm PT
Yet Another Big Alpine Bump!
adam d

closer to waves than rock
Nov 2, 2009 - 11:29pm PT
Love this climb...thanks for the bump.

Clint's photo upthread of hauling the pack high on the climb...

(if I remember right) the cracks to the left of the pack make a great variation 10/10+ ish (hard to gauge leading with a pack on eh?) but are really excellent and have tremendous exposure out to the L and down. A couple of pins and really interesting climbing following the 3 thin cracks, lots of favorite pitch of the climb.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 3, 2009 - 12:47am PT
We (Eric and I) first went to the Bugaboos in 1974. After we climbed one route on Snowpatch, Eric tried to persuade me to climb some route on the west side of the Howsers. The guidebook offered next to no useful information, but it was pretty obvious that it would have been well over my head. I was back in 1977 with my friend John, and we did try it, with full-on paraphernalia. Mountain boots, crampons, overnight pack, the whole bit. No surprise that we descended after three or four pitches. We returned in 1991.
As with Yosemite, a major logistical issue is protecting your possessions from marauding snafflehounds. Oddly, I don't remember problems in 1974 or later - perhaps someone has a captive breeding facility for them? Maybe LEB?
Some of the critters, such as those at Boulder Camp, are really quite friendly. This one climbed into my pack, while I was sitting beside it, and helped itself to a snack.
We were on an expenses-paid trip. I had an interview in Cranbrook, and they gave me money in lieu of a flight. The weather was unstable, though. Day 1 we drove to Cranbrook, and that night there was a huge lightning storm. Day 2 I had my interview, and we drove to Golden and visited friends. Day 3 we drove in, and hiked from the parking lot to camp at the Pigeon-Howsers col. A bit of an effort. This photo shows approaching the Snowpatch-Bugaboo col - the 'slabs' beneath Snowpatch are where they're talking about installing cables and ladders.
This is the view when you finally get to the col.
adam d

closer to waves than rock
Nov 3, 2009 - 01:15am PT
argh, the cables etc on the pigeon/snowpatch col is a HORRIBLE idea.

[edit...clearly pigeon is in the middle of the snowpatch/bugaboo col in this pic and this is the col of the proposed cables. oops.]

(another shot of the col...from near crescent tower I think)


Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2009 - 01:53am PT
The top of the chimney in your pack-hauling shot we found rather
interesting with it having a nice coating a ice. Not to worry,
it was Alan-the-Scot's lead.

Bugaboo Rodentae

After being driven from a point near the top of Snowpatch by lightning and a torrent we repaired to our tent near the hut about midnight. In the wee hours I became aware of an intruder inside our tent! Not in a mood to be trifled with by a lower life form a Keystone Cops charade ensued with the three of us pursuing said varmint who raced around looking for his entry point. It was probably good that he eventually found it.

The next morning, about 10 AM, we ambled over to the hut to lounge in the sun. Just as a group of hikers appeared so too did our previous night's tormenter, or at the least one of his siblings. He hopped up on a rock a good 12 meters away as if to mock us. I arose from supine to sitting and grabbed a missile at hand and invoked all that years of pitching baseball had bestowed upon me. It was a clean head shot of stunning efficacy which garnered nary a comment from the onlookers. We slept well that night.



Trad climber
Hollywood, CA
Nov 3, 2009 - 04:06am PT
Great post. Oh those pics.

East of Seattle
Nov 3, 2009 - 08:49am PT
Great report and pics! Thanks very much Reilly and Clint.

Trad climber
Nov 3, 2009 - 10:53am PT
Great thread!
Thanks guys.
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 3, 2009 - 12:38pm PT
Part 2 of the saga, from 1991.
John, at our camp at the P-H col. (I'm sure Crimpie will have no difficulty picking out the pigeon likeness.) The weather got better and better as we slowly ground our way up from the parking lot. We had 4 - 5 days of supplies, and had several routes in mind including the B-C, but with such good weather thought we ought to strike while the iron was hot, even though we'd had a long day.
Arty sunset photo.

After pretending to sleep, we got up at 4 and were off by 5. We got to the base at 7, and this is what you see looking up.

You scramble several hundred metres up a low-angle class 3 - 5 area, then it steepens abruptly.

Social climber
Hercules, CA
Nov 3, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
Very nice! Thanks for posting
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 3, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
The last photo is the first difficult pitch, perhaps 5.9 or so. After two or three more, you get into the 80 m diedre, or 250 foot corner, or whatever it's supposed to be called.
A wonderful two pitch 5.7/5.8 corner with a handcrack.

A little further up we saw a headless climber.
Not sure if it had anything to do with the snafflehounds. Anyway, we decided we'd better have lunch and think about it.

We're now about half way, maybe 9 or 10 pitches up, with the headwall looming ominously above. Except that the route goes up the shadowy cracks and chimneys on its left.
Still, it's quite pretty.

Arkansas, I suppose
Nov 3, 2009 - 09:00pm PT
Bump for some pretty cool stuff. Still need to get my lazy self out there.

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Nov 3, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
Anders: I am gripped --------and can hardly wait to see the rest of your-----I assume: epic climb of South Howser Tower.

During the 70’s I slogged into the base of the route on three occasions.

On each trip: we bivouacked, and after a restless night, filled with strange dreams and occasional attacks by pack rats------woke to ugly weather.

I never had the “hard man” drive to start an alpine route when I knew the weather was against me. Especially in the Bugaboos: with the history of lightning storms----fatalities and near misses.

Here are some of my best photos. On the third trip, Mike Yokel was probably disappointed by my lack of determination. He was the only partner that actually went in and climbed the route at a later date.

Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 4, 2009 - 01:01am PT
This report seems to be taking almost as long as we took on the climb. I guess I do drag things out a bit.

We did the B-C 30 years after its first ascent. Fred Beckey wrote it up in the American Alpine Journal in 1962 - see They had adventures with a snafflehound eating one of their fixed ropes, and used quite a lot of aid, with 135 piton placements altogether. Sadly, the report doesn't say anything about how Fred and Yvon got along; they seem rather dissimilar characters. I wonder if they did any other climbs together?

Anyway, after lunch on Big Sandy, we intrepidly continued. We were leading in blocks of four pitches, a new idea which seemed to work. Only one pack, with just enough gear. I had the block off of Big Sandy, which I guess made me the block-head. (Would it be an effete Euro-ism to say "bloc-head"?) There are three or four quite steep and airy pitches, and here we're looking down.
You can see the low angle stuff at the base of the buttress, but the intervening 12 - 14 pitches are in dead ground.

The steep cracks on the left side of the headwall eventually become a corner system, then gradually a steep chimney and then gully along the crest. As we were using double 9 mm ropes, it was simple to lead on a single rope for those pitches, and haul the pack with the other. The key is not to fall off for the first 10 m of each pitch, and to place lots of protection.

More or less at changeover. John in his stylish bicycle helmet - he'd lost or dropped his climbing helmet, so I suggested that bringing it would be better than none at all.

In the upper cracks and corner, about pitch 16. None of the climbing is all that hard - maybe a bit of 5.9. But there's lots of 5.7 and 5.8, and it's fairly steep and in a remote spot, so I didn't take many photos. (This is about where people usually find ice in the chimney/crack - it runs down from a snowpatch above, then freezes.)
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 4, 2009 - 07:57pm PT
Eventually the buttress peters out into a sort of basin below the summit. So, after a little rappel, and some traverse shenanigans, we arrived on top about 5 PM, about 20 pitches from the bottom. We even found a bit of water.
Sadly, no ladybugs were seen, despite the colourful attire.
Q: How do you know the person in the second photo is not a troll?
A: Trolls have tails, and are invariably accompanied by ladybugs. I bet none of you knew that before.

From the top we could see far and wide - a lovely warm day, but no sign of the usual Bugaboo afternoon/evening thundershower, something which we'd experienced previously.
To the northeast, we could even see a forest fire.

So we rappelled down the north face - the one facing toward Bugaboo and Snowpatch. Earlier on, parties descended the buttressy ridge leading down to the P-H col, which is fairly alpine. Six rappels, only one stuck rope requiring death-defying manoeuvres, and some interesting zig-zagging to get by the bergschrund. We were back in camp at 7 PM, hungry and thirsty.

The fun that is inevitably associated with alpine climbs soon began. We'd passed another party low down, and they were just rappelling as it got dark. About 11 PM, after no warning but a slow and apparently harmless accumulation of clouds, a horrendous thunder and lightning storm broke out, and continued all night. As far as we could tell, the 'flashes' and the 'booms' were simultaneous, and must have been striking within a short distance. We lay flat on our thermarests, hoping that they'd provide a bit of insulation if needed, and were very scared. It finally eased off at about sunrise, so we squashed all our wet junk into our packs, slopped down to Boulder Camp and had some breakfast, and were in the hotsprings at Radium by early afternoon, ending a rather energetic 48 hours.

Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
Nov 4, 2009 - 11:08pm PT
Mighty Hiker; Great report! Can you re-enter it as a TR on your own thread?

People can not believe how committing this route is-----until they "Pay the Price" and attempt it.

Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 5, 2009 - 01:48am PT
Thanks, but it really wasn't a particularly significant climb, not even by 1991 standards. A Good Day Out, and an adventure, but not much more. So I thought I'd just add it to this thread - hopefully Reilly doesn't mind the diversion. There are some other Beckey-Chouinard threads around, including I believe Rick A's story of the FFA in 1975 - although there wasn't much aid left at that point. But if Reilly wants, I can move it, and scan a few other slides - there's even one of someone dancing on a table. (A glacier table, but whatever.)

See also: (western approach!) (FFA - Rick & Tobin)

Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2009 - 01:58am PT
FFA in '75? Uhhh, I thought we were there in '75? I don't remember using any aid but then I assumed that nobody else did either. Didn't realize it had been aided. Didn't think it was a big deal. Just happy to have an early repeat and a Good Day Out. As they say nowadays, whatever ! :-)

Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
Nov 5, 2009 - 01:24pm PT
Nice! Remember back in hte old old days, when climbing mags had stuff like this? I'm glad Alpinist is back!
Mighty Hiker

Vancouver, B.C. Small wall climber.
Nov 7, 2009 - 12:54am PT
Neither of the guidebooks to the Bugaboos comments on who did the FFA of the Beckey-Chouinard. FA 1961. FSA 1977. FWA 1981. But nothing re FFA. The Atkinson-Piche book (2003) is considered authoritative. If I remember rightly, the route had been done mostly free by 1974, when I was first there.

Maybe Rick A is around and can comment. The "Antiques Roadshow" thread may draw him out.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 7, 2009 - 01:06am PT
How about The Fifty Calassic Climbs?

Social climber
Jan 2, 2010 - 06:29pm PT
I talked to Thom Nephew about this route- their plan was to try and free it. Thom would climb the wide stuff and his partner would do the thin.
On the approach they had an accident where Thom was pinned by a big rock.
He had to helicoptered out.
We need a Thom Nephew thread- I'm starting it.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jan 29, 2012 - 08:40pm PT
Ultra Classic Bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Mar 18, 2012 - 12:13pm PT
Still buried in snow bump...
Ezra Ellis

Trad climber
WA, & NC & Idaho
Mar 18, 2012 - 12:22pm PT
Awesome History!!! Thanks!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Mar 18, 2012 - 12:36pm PT
classic tales from BITD, even if that wasn't so long ago (at least by my standards)....

two trips to the 'Bugs so far for me, 1985 and 1996, missed the mid 2000 trip maybe I'll be there in 2015 or so!

Big Mike

Trad climber
Apr 24, 2012 - 12:37am PT
Wow guys, amazing bugs tr thread!

Riley Amazing photos man.. I love your stuff.

Tons of cool photos and stories!! Thanks!

Trad climber
100% Canadian
Apr 24, 2012 - 04:40am PT
Really great pictures! Now all we need to hear is the tale of the first winter ascent by Flavelle whom last I saw was actually sporting a minor beer gut. Lol...

mike m

Trad climber
black hills
Jul 20, 2012 - 05:42pm PT

beneath the valley of ultravegans
Jul 2, 2013 - 12:18pm PT
Bump for the radness! Headed there in a few weeks.

Anyone know if the rappels can be done on a single 70m?

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2013 - 01:30pm PT
Bruce, you silly, c'est la couture de rigueur pour les montagnes, n'est ce pas?

Trad climber
Jul 2, 2013 - 09:12pm PT
Excellent trip on the way back machine!

Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
Jul 2, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
First time I've seen this thread but worth the wait!
Thjanks for posting.
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jul 2, 2013 - 10:30pm PT
wow, my first time seeing this too. I guess I have to take back all those things I've thought about Reilly. Great photos. climb and story!

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 3, 2013 - 12:25am PT


I missed this the first time. I knew you stomped rump in the N. Cascades and are a wonderful contributor to the birds thread, but this is awesome. I bow down.

And then Clint comes in with more photos, and ..., and then Jim !!!!!!

effin fantastic thread.

Flank of the Bighorns
Jul 3, 2013 - 01:53am PT

beneath the valley of ultravegans
Aug 9, 2013 - 10:28pm PT
One of the best TRs around! My 28 hour hut-to-hut tale will follow shortly.

Aug 9, 2013 - 10:35pm PT
Fukkin rights!

I heard there is a 48hr Squamish to Squamish record on this route. Can't remember the chaps tho....

Seriously awesome thread here.

A long way from where I started
Aug 9, 2013 - 10:45pm PT
Good stuff. I don't know how I missed this until now, but I'm glad someone bumped it.

Aug 10, 2013 - 03:41am PT
nice bump marty(r). never clicked until now and glad i finally did.

epic quality to some of those photos Reilly.

not to mention fashion shoot worthy clothing and equipment colour coordination!


Aug 10, 2013 - 07:41am PT
Then we sang songs all night in German; I went to a Kurt Diemburger slide show once and he said that worked well for him. It would have helped if either of us spoke German.


First ST thread to read this AM. Beauty.
Thanks, Reilly.

Whatever happened to that MH dude?

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
May 24, 2014 - 04:29pm PT
Fifty Classic Bumps...
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