Shiprock Climbing History

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Messages 101 - 120 of total 124 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
crunch

Social climber
CO
Apr 30, 2012 - 05:40pm PT

Great photos!

Rappel Gully Anchor #1. Pretty sure the small bolts in upper left corner are some the first placed in the USA. Not sure though.

I recall that reading that one the first ascent, that rappel was anchored by pitons--no bolts. The FA party placed just four bolts, one at base of the Double Overhang pitch (which is not done these days) one midway up that pitch, one atop that pitch, and one atop the Horn pitch at that belay. All others were added later.

Great pics of the route and the hardware found up there. Interesting, that pic of the modern shiny bolt; evidently folks are retrobolting to this day. Nice colorful pic of Ormes Rib.

WhiskeyToast

Social climber
Hawaii
Apr 30, 2012 - 06:07pm PT
Great shots. Keep them coming.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Apr 30, 2012 - 06:09pm PT
Pretty sure the small bolts in upper left corner are some the first placed in the USA. Not sure though

yeah, big moment.

they likely practiced on i-rock first.
adrian korosec

climber
Tucson
May 1, 2012 - 12:25pm PT
One-bolt belay at start of traverse pitch after the 2 single rope raps
One-bolt belay at start of traverse pitch after the 2 single rope raps
Credit: adrian korosec
The Traverse Pitch
The Traverse Pitch
Credit: adrian korosec
First bolt on traverse.
First bolt on traverse.
Credit: adrian korosec
Sucker bolt #1
Sucker bolt #1
Credit: adrian korosec
Bomber LA
Bomber LA
Credit: adrian korosec
The high traverse &#40;where you don't want to go&#41;.  There is a pi...
The high traverse (where you don't want to go). There is a pin around the corner that allows you to lower 30' to the correct anchor.
Credit: adrian korosec

Next up, double-overhang area to ramp.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 12, 2012 - 09:08pm PT
Bump with bolts...
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 18, 2013 - 08:13am PT
Happy idiot has posted a couple of interesting magazine articles about early Shiprock climbing history here.

http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=2047590&tn=0#msg2047618
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jan 18, 2013 - 08:47am PT
Hey, adrian korosec,

nice photos.

the funny thing is, on the first ascent that traverse had no bolts. Not even the belay. I believe they used the bottom of their fixed rope as an anchor.

David Brower (who led that pitch) placed a single piton for protection about 60-80 feet across the traverse. Not bad for 1939, in whatever footwear (tennis shoes?) they had back then.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jan 18, 2013 - 08:07pm PT
"I was in the area once with Richard Harrison (who went back later and bagged it - free solo I believe), but we did other stuff instead. That one just got away from me."

I would love to hear how Richard free soloed Shiprock.

Richard, you out there....John?
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jan 18, 2013 - 11:24pm PT
Given the climbing ban, how is it that people are still climibng Shiprock?
Tony Bird

climber
Northridge, CA
Jan 19, 2013 - 05:15am PT
i drove through new mexico last fall--it only took one enchilada in gallup to remind me how much i love the place.

i had an interesting adventure driving through jemez pueblo towards los alamos, then being diverted by a road block to a forest service jeep trail down through cochiti mesa, which i recognized as the scene of backcountry skulduggery in tony hillerman novels. i followed a forest ranger outa there. it took some discussion before we both decided to risk the stream crossing.

i also came across another "ship" rock--battleship rock--anyone climbed that one?

http://www.scenicusa.net/images/SP10%20Battleship%20Rock%20PD.jpg
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 19, 2013 - 08:27am PT
Funny.. I'm right in the middle of reading Cadillac Desert - the American West and it's Disappearing Water (a must read BTW) and I last night I got to the chapter about David Brower. His ascent of Shiprock is briefly mentioned just before they launch into his extensive conservation efforts.

Just an odd coincidence two Shiprock threads and mention of David were on the front page this morning.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jan 19, 2013 - 10:19am PT
Given the climbing ban, how is it that people are still climibng Shiprock?

The climbing ban is a complex subject.

The Tribe announced a ban on climbing in 1970. Yet never drew up laws to back this up. So, it's complicated.

Currently there's a small but enthusiastic group of Navajos who climb. They have a Facebook "group" page. Members have climbed on the rez, proudly, some members have climbed Shiprock.

This makes it even more complicated. They wonder if they will get arrested at some point. Even locals can't get an official answer about the exact legal status of climbing.
crunch

Social climber
CO
Jan 19, 2013 - 10:23am PT
Letter sent to Steve Roper and to all climbers in 1971
Letter sent to Steve Roper and to all climbers in 1971
Credit: crunch
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Jan 22, 2013 - 06:27am PT
Another bump for history
Sierra Ledge Rat

Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
Jan 23, 2013 - 05:38pm PT
...Yet never drew up laws to back this up...

Back it up? Back it up?

Isn't it enough that the landowners said "No?"

So you think that you have the right to ignore the landowners just because they "never drew up laws" to back it up?
Alexander Pina

Big Wall climber
Arizona
Feb 21, 2013 - 09:45am PT
This letter is Bull shit! i live here on the REZ and i am a proud member of the Navajo tribe. yes some of these areas are concider sacred sites but alot (MOST) are just some badass formations that should have no restrictions to climb. Just be respectful which most of us are!!
CHeck out ..Dine' Coalitions of Climbers on FB..
Reilly

Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
Feb 21, 2013 - 10:07am PT
Alexander, thank you! Now we have someone with some street cred! But you
sound as mystified about the ban as anyone. With all due respect your Nation's
government is like any other - a trifle wrapped up in bureaucracy these days and,
with far greater problems to be dealt with, the climbing issue is far down the list.
Would I be correct to assume that when you speak of acting with respect
that the people who live nearest to a formation are less likely to call
the Tribal Police if we don't act like rock climbers often act?

And I just want to know if any of you guys have climbed Spider Rock? I'm
fine with that being banned to the rest of us but I sincerely hope some of
you get to enjoy its sacredness.
Alexander Pina

Big Wall climber
Arizona
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:26pm PT
No i don't know of anyone but the LEGENDS that have had the chance to climb Spider Rock. Canyon De Chelly is a National Park now and access to that area of the canyon is restricted and you need a guide just to be there. Also Spider Rock is a sacred site with interesting history.

As far as the so called ban on climbing, I do not agree so you if you do want to climb and minimize any potential trouble its best to know a Navajo.

If you are serious about climbing on the REZ...dineclimbers@hotmail.com
Nilepoc

Big Wall climber
Tx
Feb 21, 2013 - 01:47pm PT
When I did it in 2004 I got "permission" from the grazing rights holder. Cameron Burns did the same when he put up routes on the tower in the 90's and 00's.

We had no hassles and the next day the Navajos I was working with in the hospital there congratulated me and asked for the tale. It was a great climb and I hope to do it again in the future.
Cam Burns

Social climber
CO
Feb 21, 2013 - 04:36pm PT
Yeah, nilepoc (whoever you are). Just gotta be friendly. Not enough of that in the world.
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