southern yosemite

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Kurt Jensen

Trad climber
Aptos,CA
Oct 17, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
Hi Southern Yosemite crew...
I just made my first trip there recently and got three great days in,
High Eagle, Shangri La, and South Eagle Beak area.
Grahm, thanks for showing everybody around and helping us find our way to some really fun routes!
Christine at Shangri La crag
Christine at Shangri La crag
Credit: Kurt Jensen
I'm headed out there tomorrow, planning to camp up by High Eagle in my red Tacoma.
I've got through Monday morning and need some info on routes.
I've got Slater's book, and think we'll hit 557's/High Eagle/Shangri La.

We've got time for more...any recomendations? GF is 5.9 to 5.10b climber, me a bit higher, but 11and under suits us. Grahm, you climbing this weekend?
Maybe a trip to S. Eagle beak again if I can remember the road to turn on...
Vlad on Shangri La
Vlad on Shangri La
Credit: Kurt Jensen
I'd love some help on route info and such, or to meet up if anyone's out climbing somewhere fun.
I sure loved what I climbed on my first visit, and am looking forward to sharing it with my girlfriend and camping out up there before the season changes to Grahm snowmobiling around :-)
Kurt
this just in

climber
north fork
Oct 17, 2012 - 07:34pm PT
Sh#t yeah Kurt. Glad you enjoyed the area and are coming back for more. If you're camping in high eagle area, go check out dreamscape. It's about a half hour walk from camp. Send graham an email and he will share the route info. Some great moderates and I believe up to 13. Saturday or Sunday, I will probably be up on the south side and wouldn't mind showing you crocodile. Email me if you want to, maybe grahm would be down too. Regardless have a great weekend.
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Oct 17, 2012 - 07:48pm PT
If you also like trad multi-pitch, make the drive to check out the east side of the ridge - Grey Eagle area in particular. You won't be disappointed.

Half the fun of Shuteye and beyond is having little info and just hiking up to stuff, sussing out what's there, and climbing it.

But if you stay centered around High Eagle, Dreamscape isn't far from camp, and rumor has it, holds some dandy moderate knob romps and some steeper challenges. :)

I think this may have been edited down (certainly fewer pics and no more Crocodile topo), but here's an article Slater wrote for Climbing, covering some of the southern end of the ridge:
http://www.climbing.com/route/wake-up-call/

EDIT: Whoa, Justin, a true blood local, beat me to some of the same recommendations!



Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Oct 17, 2012 - 08:01pm PT
Just found the Italians have posted the original Slater article here:

http://ita.zinio.com/page/;jsessionid=B0DEF5265F881ABD08CE28559E215249.prd-main-news6?issue=416154597&pg=75&categoryId=cat1960030&acf=PG
Kurt Jensen

Trad climber
Aptos,CA
Oct 17, 2012 - 08:46pm PT
Vlad on Space Lord
Vlad on Space Lord
Credit: Kurt Jensen

Thanks guys. I'd be intersted in info on Dreamscape and 557's since we'll camp close.
We could move camp to join someone further SE from there for a day too. Sounds great!
I'd love to get back up to that S. Eagle Beak area too! I'm so excited to get back out there again...
Grahm Doe

Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
Oct 21, 2012 - 08:31pm PT
A powerful storm system will press into the West Coast early Monday bringing cold and wet weather to the region, as well as the first significant snow of the season. The Sierra Nevada Range is forecast to receive up to 18 inches of snow at the higher elevations. Yosemite National Park could see 8 inches of snow. Winter Storm Warnings and Winter Weather Advisories are in effect across the area.

WEST SLOPE NORTHERN SIERRA NEVADA-
240 PM PDT SUN OCT 21 2012

...WINTER STORM WARNING REMAINS IN EFFECT FROM 11 PM THIS EVENING
TO 5 AM PDT TUESDAY ABOVE 5500 FEET...

* SNOW ACCUMULATIONS: 6 TO 12 INCHES WITH LOCAL ACCUMULATIONS OF
18 TO 24 INCHES ABOVE 7500 FEET.

* ELEVATION: ABOVE 5500 FEET.

* TIMING: STARTING LATE TONIGHT AND CONTINUING INTO TUESDAY
MORNING. HEAVIEST SNOW LIKELY DURING THE DAY MONDAY.

* WINDS: SOUTH 20 TO 30 MPH WITH GUSTS UP TO 50 MPH OR HIGHER
THROUGH THE HIGH ELEVATION MOUNTAIN PASSES.

* IMPACTS: DRIVING WILL LIKELY BECOME HAZARDOUS FROM SLICK ROADS
AND REDUCED VISIBILITIES. SEASONALLY OPEN BACK COUNTRY ROADS
MAY BECOME IMPASSIBLE.

PRECAUTIONARY/PREPAREDNESS ACTIONS...

A WINTER STORM WARNING FOR HEAVY SNOW MEANS SEVERE WINTER WEATHER
CONDITIONS ARE EXPECTED. SIGNIFICANT AMOUNTS OF SNOW ARE FORECAST
THAT WILL MAKE TRAVEL DIFFICULT. IF YOU MUST TRAVEL...CARRY TIRE
CHAINS...KEEP AN EXTRA FLASHLIGHT...FOOD...AND WATER IN YOUR
VEHICLE IN CASE OF AN EMERGENCY.
Grahm Doe

Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
Oct 22, 2012 - 10:25pm PT
Chilkoot Lake today...with more on the way the next 2 days.

Credit: Grahm Doe


Credit: Grahm Doe


Credit: Grahm Doe
mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Oct 24, 2012 - 06:25pm PT
But will it stick?

Stable weather for the next 7 days with daytime high's in 60's.

Praying for an extended Indian Summer!

mooch

Trad climber
Old Climbers' Home (Adopted)
Nov 5, 2012 - 11:48am PT
Did anyone get out this weekend? I was looking at the winter weather outlook on NOAA. They're still sorting out the winter prediction but since El Nino conditions have shown up by now, they're leaning on a warmer than normal winter. For the short term, looks like a low pressure will coming into the state by Thursday morning, bring snow shower to elevations 6K and higher. Hmmmmm.....will it stick?
Grahm Doe

Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
Nov 5, 2012 - 09:10pm PT
Thats a good question! I guess we'll just have to see, but usually once we get a strong cold winter blast like this it sets up a pattern from Alaska.

Good place to get some weather predictions that might affect us. http://tahoeweatherdiscussion.com/

Check out Madera Peaks weather:

Thursday A chance of rain and snow showers, mainly after 10am. Snow level 7100 feet. Mostly cloudy, with a high near 44. East northeast wind 5 to 10 mph becoming south southwest in the morning. Winds could gust as high as 15 mph. Chance of precipitation is 30%.
Thursday Night Snow showers likely. Cloudy, with a low around 24. South southeast wind 5 to 10 mph. Chance of precipitation is 70%. New snow accumulation of less than a half inch possible.
Friday Snow showers likely. Cloudy, with a high near 33. South southwest wind around 5 mph. Chance of precipitation is 70%.
Friday Night A 40 percent chance of snow showers. Mostly cloudy, with a low around 22. Southwest wind around 5 mph becoming northeast in the evening.
Saturday Partly sunny, with a high near 36. North wind around 5 mph.

We found some cool climbing near Globe Rock only 1oo feet off the road this weekend. Heres some pix of a little 5 bolt 11c/d we put up on Sunday called "Mission Impossible". A bit mossy toward the top but the whole route is powerful, steep and pumpy.

Credit: Grahm Doe

Louis Garcia working the moves.
Louis Garcia working the moves.
Credit: Grahm Doe

Credit: Grahm Doe

Credit: Grahm Doe
Grahm Doe

Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
Nov 10, 2012 - 09:15pm PT
Yup, it was a COLD one up there today!

Credit: Grahm Doe


Credit: Grahm Doe


Credit: Grahm Doe


Credit: Grahm Doe
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Nov 25, 2012 - 12:27pm PT
Burrito
Burrito
Credit: Slater

Credit: Slater

Feathers
Feathers
Credit: Slater

Credit: Slater

Funnel
Funnel
Credit: Slater

Seek
Seek
Credit: Slater

Credit: Slater

Credit: Slater

Not too cold up there, still good to go as of 11-24.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Nov 26, 2012 - 12:40pm PT
Nice Tom
this just in

climber
north fork
Nov 26, 2012 - 01:01pm PT
Hell yeah. That last pic of the Silver Divide is badass.
crazy horse

Trad climber
fresno, ca
Nov 26, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
yup, nice and warm. Been doing a bit of sunny exploring, trail work, fishing, hunting.

fatty manzi
fatty manzi
Credit: crazy horse

not a bad little catch
not a bad little catch
Credit: crazy horse
Slater

Trad climber
Central Coast
Nov 27, 2012 - 02:26pm PT
The Silver Divide... man the whole range was going off in pinks and purples.

It was good to get up there one more time. I wonder if this next storm will shut it down.

LE was a fun crag, I love the fact that there is a river with swimming holes right there.

Could be a lot of fun in summer.

I think SEEK AND YE SHALL FIND was my favorite route.
Funnel Runnel sort of fell apart at the end, but the first pitch was OK. Fun to do something that went to the top though.
Nate D

climber
San Francisco
Nov 27, 2012 - 03:33pm PT
Ahoy, looks like a fine late season romp there Tom! (And purdy fish, Matt.)

But yea, you missed out on the hot day dip in the pools.

Funnel Runnel sort of fell apart at the end, but the first pitch was OK. Fun to do something that went to the top though.

Blasted domes of the Sierra almost always ease off into low angle slabbage at the top, making for less interesting final pitches. (Snake Dike somehow still ranks as a classic.) :)

In Oct. we were able to squeeze in a long overdue day at the old stomping grounds.

Ger goes up.
Ger goes up.
Credit: Jon S.

Jon goes down.
Jon goes down.
Credit: Nate D

p2 Momma's
p2 Momma's
Credit: Jon S.

Jerry A. on Momma's
Jerry A. on Momma's
Credit: Jon S.

Sherpa Jon follows Power.
Sherpa Jon follows Power.
Credit: Gerry J.
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Nov 28, 2012 - 12:28pm PT
Lost eagle is an amazing place, i hung out there a ton this last summer, and the swimming holes are super fun, the melting wall has some of the wildest holds at shuteye, i like that there are no bolts on the melting wall, only anchors bolts, in all time i spent at lost eagle, only saw one climbing party while we were swimming at the creek, and it was there first time they were at lost eagle, i did find the road sign in the bushes and put it back up, it would be hard to find 6s23 without the road marker, it's one of my favorite places at shuteye, and can't wait for next summer to go back, heres a couple pix of amy and i chillen at lost eagle, happy climbing mike a.
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Nov 28, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
Credit: mike a.
mike a.

Sport climber
ca
Nov 28, 2012 - 12:29pm PT
Credit: mike a.
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