Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Sep 25, 2012 - 09:53am PT
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Awesome Jeff! Your routes are fun.
Great that Electric area is getting some love these days. We hiked out that abandoned 400 foot static line that was hanging down the wall for 6 years and some other abandoned stuff. Anyone missing their 90's cassette boom box? :-)
Looking forward to trying your new one Jeff. Keep us posted when its ready to go!
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mucci
Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
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Sep 25, 2012 - 10:17am PT
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Cool Pix.
Patner and I combined were stung over 40 times at the base of a new route on owl wall.
So desperate as we were on a 4th class ledge.
Fastest down monkeying I have ever done.
Got EFFING SNAKED ON THE FA the next day!!!!!
Good thing as we were never, EVER going back.
The route name is BEE TREE.
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Jeremy Ross
Gym climber
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Sep 26, 2012 - 08:28pm PT
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Right on Grahm and Matt! Can't believe it goes at such a great grade! Sending a thank you to you guys for cleaning up that cave but if you have that boom box I totally want my depeche mode mix tape back...
-JR
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Josh, I hope the stings are feeling a lot better, what an epic.
Grahm, what's the new line go at? How about a few more pics for a better look???
Never found out who stole the hanger off my route. Also never found out who killed the plant on the first pitch that I easily avoided on the FA.
The only solution to those problems and other real problems is to look on The Brighter Side
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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super fun looking route and cool topo, but where is this climb, maybe gold eagle/electric eagle??? hook up a bro thanks.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Mike, the route is across from Gray and below Electric
Jeff
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mike a.
Sport climber
ca
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cool thanks i will check it out, thats the owl wall right???
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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I'll never do it. I'm afraid of Cave Trolls. ;)
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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Cool share. I look forward to eventually seeing what other multipitch stuff is on that wall.
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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good job jeff and mony , thanks for the topo. can't wait to do it
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sullly
Trad climber
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Nice work J & M. Pretty tame route name considering those Dickins and Sanchez lines in So Yo.
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Thanks all
The route is very fun but with a few runouts in easier terrain. Also those that know me well, know what special gear to bring(think pink). Otherwise a singles rack to a #3 C4 and a lot of slings.
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this just in
climber
north fork
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Looks like a little bit of everything tork. Thanks for sharing the topo, any action shots of the climb?
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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Hell ya, looks awesome! Great work you two, and awesome topos.
Those two deep caves on the ledge are super cool. Some crazy bouldering potential in there possibly.
Too funny on the name. Matt and I already named a route "Bright Side of Life" earlier this year on Gray. We told you about it when we were climbing on Thunderstruck together. It probably knocked around in your brain and then came out again. :-) We named ours after the Life of Brian movie. If you know the movie, you know the last song... always look on the bright side of life (then the whistling part) http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jHPOzQzk9Qo
We were thinking it would be fun to keep the Monty Python theme going on other routes nearby.
Our route "Taipan Rising" on Electric goes at only 11a (we were pleasantly surprised). Theres one pitch that has a little aid (french free on bolts) to get past a possible 5.13 dyno section that may go free someday. But, the rest is all free at 11a. I am working on the topo and description now for the guide. Jim T took some amazing shots, but they are not mine to share. :-( He has to make a living somehow. :-) Maybe he will post some of his throw away shots. (still bitchin)
Here's the rest of mine, not really that helpful for showing the route but...
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Tork
climber
Yosemite
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Sorry, no pics. Gotta get a camera.
Wow Grahm, 11a! Cool!
Do you have routes off that ledge? There were a couple of routes that we could tell had been done. We used a 2 bolt anchor that was already there for the belayer on pitch 4. It would be easy for someone to miss our 4th and get on this other route instead. Our 4th starts about 30' left and a bit down from the existing 2 bolt anchor. The first route just left looks good. You can see a couple of bolts above after a steep crack ends.
My zombie plan is to hole up in there.
As far as the name??? Not sure if you got it in my head??? It is mostly due to a lot of the sh#t talking and other acts that has been going on for the past couple of seasons out there that has really gotten me down. I think that when I walked past my route at Gray with the stolen hanger I started thinking about all of it and started getting angrey, then said fuc it lets go climb that line over there in the sun.
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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We were in the exact same head space when we named ours! Nothing like climbing a great new route to cheer you up and see whats important.
Those other routes aren't mine. I was just checking them out and saw the caves. Ya, zombies would have a hard time finding you there. The Walking Dead have a tough time climbing 10b. But, for some tasty brains they will try. :-)
Dan asked me to draw Taipan Rising on his photo and post it. So here it is. Obviously my publisher would prefer I not post up the finished topos and route descriptions with the guide coming out soon (your new route will make it in). But, this will get you guys up the route if your getting on it in the next few weeks.
Bring gear to 2" for the mixed first pitch. Theres two bolts at the start. Most will want to stick clip the first bolt. After P1 its just bolts for pro, with the occasional knob sling up higher on the route. All bolted belays. Edit - Bring 17 draws for P3 and be willing to pull on draws to reach jugs and then the next bolt for the easy A0 part.
Found these photos from last year, October 5th. brrr
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Nate D
climber
San Francisco
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11a up that stunning overhanging wall?? Wowzers!
Please
don't
show
snow...
yet.
:)
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
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Is it possible to break thru the overhangs on the left side?
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mctwisted
Trad climber
e.p.
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thanks grahm, wow, now with torks route as a start a guy could do a 10 pitch route at 11a, on some of the finest rock on the planet, sweet.
munge, there are a few routes out the cave at the bottom, then following black streaks, that jones and ketron did (5.12). and i think theres one left of the cave also, that wilber did, thats perhaps 11-, that goes to the top (ill try and get some details)
also ketron and i put up a great route a fair bit to the right of the one shown in the pic thats 4 pitches at 12a
grahm put an order in for me, i need that guidebook
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Grahm Doe
Sport climber
Just South Of Heaven
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I owe YOU, and some others folks one for all the route names and beta shared on their routes. Lookin forward to getting it in your hands.
You crazy "El Portalien's" put up some sweet climbs. hehe, Brian said it was 11d, but I bet 12a is more accurate. That last pitch you guys did looks insane!
Don't forget Sharma and Sean's 13c through that roof too! The one to the far left is called Glory Balls 11b.
Good call on linking the routes together. That would be an amazing day of climbing some sweet Shuteye stone.
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