Cozmic Bandito-Gang Bang- South Face, Mt. Watkins

Search
Go

Discussion Topic

Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
Messages 21 - 40 of total 192 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 12:09am PT
Thanks Captain,zander and Mighty.

Yeah we snuck up and ambushed that big motherlode, just like Banditos.

"Thee stone, she give up many reeches but you must be able to take the heet..."

You guys have inspired me to do a little more scanning!
Buju

Trad climber
A Sandbar
Feb 4, 2009 - 12:15am PT
For those of yall who have done it...where/how good are the bivy ledges?

btw...thank for the pics...they are inspiring!!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 12:37am PT
Belay station above the second bivy ledge. My ever present wave.
I thought a lot about Harding going without water up there...
Isn't that upper wall beautiful?





Keith getting close to the swing point.





Keith working the swing. "Explore the space. No really....explore the space baby."






Still workin' it, 'bout got it. That visor is the best. Just waiting up there for me....






C'mon up boys!





Anguish

Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
Feb 4, 2009 - 12:44am PT
Did you see Pratt's eagle, the monarch of Tenaya Canyon? He wrote about her in his AAJ article, I believe. She still owned the country back in the 70s when I was on the face.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 12:49am PT
Hi Anguish, We saw some really great birds, but I don't think I saw any grey haired eagles.

Everybody's memory seems better than mine though....
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 01:41am PT
Hi Grinch!!!
You should be on here!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 11:05am PT
Yo Scott...are you there??

Buju,

I think Sheraton Watkins is about 6-7? pitches up, and the next one is 3 pitches above that. We fixed at least two above the second ledge before staying there.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 4, 2009 - 01:21pm PT
Looking forward to more installments from your continuing photo essay!

Her'es some pics along the way,
From an ascent in '81 with E & Ed Kaufer:





fotos by Ed Kaufer
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 02:00pm PT
Right on Tar! I was hoping you'd post.

Thanks for filling in some blanks with those shots.
Got anymore?? Post 'em!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 02:14pm PT
Headwall. I LOVE those freekin' trees growing right out of the face! The striping on the upper right is pretty awesome too.






Different perspective looking down between the legs.
Nice shadows..






Here I was bragging about not seeing anyone up there...but that does appear to be a party working on the lower swings.
I hate my memory sometimes!



Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Feb 4, 2009 - 02:24pm PT
Those two are the best pictures I have,
Except for this one I doctored up; depicting the approach pitches.
This is right at the moment when my packstrap busted loose too...



(I made the pack of course; it needed a little tuning ... 'sold it to Dick Cilley)
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 02:30pm PT
Ouch!!

Cool picture man. I'm glad you were able to sell the offending object!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 01:31am PT
Final installment until I find the rest from this trip.
Some of the best summit shots we ever got.
Three of the best partners a guy could ask for.


L to R, Buggs Seizys, Doctor Keith Stevens, Mel Johnston.





The brothers with Half Dome.





Survival holding the plastic toys that he promised his 4 and 2 year old children he would take up the wall.





Survival, Keith and Buggs with the evening sun.





The full on Cozmic Banditos. Together then, together now.

survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 09:20am PT
This will tie in nicely with the Snow Creek Trail TR since it was on the same trip to the valley.

We even had Lynn Romano along on that one!

Anybody want to see some pix???
philo

Trad climber
boulder, co.
Feb 5, 2009 - 09:33am PT
Please sir may I have some more?
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Feb 5, 2009 - 09:55am PT
Very cool.....Banditos, Man!!!!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 10:56am PT
Phil, I'm hoping that Buggs will chime in with a few pix that I'm missing from the mix here. Thanks for looking.

Captain, probably the most prolific poster to my slightly stale and not too cutting edge offerings. Thanks to you especially.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Feb 5, 2009 - 01:07pm PT
Stellar, survival
I always remember Warren Harding's description of the
1st ascent--
". . .when Yvon Chouinard, Chuck Pratt, and I stood at the base of the 60 foot 'head wall' high on the South Face of Mt. Watkins in Yosemite. We'd been on the face four days, about wiped out from heat and short on water rations. We were having some sort of organizational meeting. The topic before the board was quite simple: Shall we go up or shall we go down? (We agreed, we sure as hell can't stay here!) Somehow, the vote seemed in favor of up!
But this would obviously entail a certain amount of bolting. Starting off, I set an example of crudeness by quickly placing three bolts before sagging weakly back down to the belay ledge. Chuck went up next and, in a brilliant display of skill, was able to place only two bolts, both so poorly that it seemed questionable that they'd even hold a man's weight. Down with Chuck and up with Yvon. M. Chouinard had even greater qualifications: vast technical skill plus strong moral fiber. Y.C. proved to be so skillful and morally fibrous that he was able to get in only one bolt (breaking two drills in the process). In desperation (we had brought very few drills because of Y.C.'s high-minded belief in 'giving the mountain a chance') I pleaded with him to come down and let me see what I could do. . ."

What did you guys think of the headwall?
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
Steve, I remember being really impressed with the climbing.
I got quite all the "sport" I wanted on the wide pitch above the upper pendulum, and the last 3 pitches were about as good as anything I've climbed on the Captain. I remember a long clean crack and turning the visor on the last pitch was wonderful. That's my faded recollection.
mazamarick

Trad climber
WA
Feb 5, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
Great shots, it's nice to see the climb again. Did the SF route in the fall of'76 with Mike Kosterlitz, part of the British invasion that year (Nick Estcourt,et al)and had an epic requiring 2 approaches because I brought a 120'long haul rope discovered on the first pendulum! Loaned my slides out a few years later and never got them back....bummer of bummers.
Messages 21 - 40 of total 192 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Return to Forum List
Post a Reply
 
Our Guidebooks
Check 'em out!
SuperTopo Guidebooks


Try a free sample topo!

 
SuperTopo on the Web

Review Categories
Recent Trip Report and Articles
Recent Route Beta
Recent Gear Reviews