survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 09:09pm PT
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Thanks Captain,zander and Mighty.
Yeah we snuck up and ambushed that big motherlode, just like Banditos.
"Thee stone, she give up many reeches but you must be able to take the heet..."
You guys have inspired me to do a little more scanning!
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Buju
Trad climber
A Sandbar
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For those of yall who have done it...where/how good are the bivy ledges?
btw...thank for the pics...they are inspiring!!
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Anguish
Mountain climber
Jackson Hole Wyo.
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Did you see Pratt's eagle, the monarch of Tenaya Canyon? He wrote about her in his AAJ article, I believe. She still owned the country back in the 70s when I was on the face.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 09:49pm PT
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Hi Anguish, We saw some really great birds, but I don't think I saw any grey haired eagles.
Everybody's memory seems better than mine though....
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 10:41pm PT
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Hi Grinch!!!
You should be on here!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 08:05am PT
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Yo Scott...are you there??
Buju,
I think Sheraton Watkins is about 6-7? pitches up, and the next one is 3 pitches above that. We fixed at least two above the second ledge before staying there.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 11:00am PT
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Right on Tar! I was hoping you'd post.
Thanks for filling in some blanks with those shots.
Got anymore?? Post 'em!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Those two are the best pictures I have,
Except for this one I doctored up; depicting the approach pitches.
This is right at the moment when my packstrap busted loose too...
(I made the pack of course; it needed a little tuning ... 'sold it to Dick Cilley)
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 11:30am PT
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Ouch!!
Cool picture man. I'm glad you were able to sell the offending object!
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 06:20am PT
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This will tie in nicely with the Snow Creek Trail TR since it was on the same trip to the valley.
We even had Lynn Romano along on that one!
Anybody want to see some pix???
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Please sir may I have some more?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 07:56am PT
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Phil, I'm hoping that Buggs will chime in with a few pix that I'm missing from the mix here. Thanks for looking.
Captain, probably the most prolific poster to my slightly stale and not too cutting edge offerings. Thanks to you especially.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Stellar, survival
I always remember Warren Harding's description of the
1st ascent--
". . .when Yvon Chouinard, Chuck Pratt, and I stood at the base of the 60 foot 'head wall' high on the South Face of Mt. Watkins in Yosemite. We'd been on the face four days, about wiped out from heat and short on water rations. We were having some sort of organizational meeting. The topic before the board was quite simple: Shall we go up or shall we go down? (We agreed, we sure as hell can't stay here!) Somehow, the vote seemed in favor of up!
But this would obviously entail a certain amount of bolting. Starting off, I set an example of crudeness by quickly placing three bolts before sagging weakly back down to the belay ledge. Chuck went up next and, in a brilliant display of skill, was able to place only two bolts, both so poorly that it seemed questionable that they'd even hold a man's weight. Down with Chuck and up with Yvon. M. Chouinard had even greater qualifications: vast technical skill plus strong moral fiber. Y.C. proved to be so skillful and morally fibrous that he was able to get in only one bolt (breaking two drills in the process). In desperation (we had brought very few drills because of Y.C.'s high-minded belief in 'giving the mountain a chance') I pleaded with him to come down and let me see what I could do. . ."
What did you guys think of the headwall?
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 10:15am PT
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Steve, I remember being really impressed with the climbing.
I got quite all the "sport" I wanted on the wide pitch above the upper pendulum, and the last 3 pitches were about as good as anything I've climbed on the Captain. I remember a long clean crack and turning the visor on the last pitch was wonderful. That's my faded recollection.
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mazamarick
Trad climber
WA
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Great shots, it's nice to see the climb again. Did the SF route in the fall of'76 with Mike Kosterlitz, part of the British invasion that year (Nick Estcourt,et al)and had an epic requiring 2 approaches because I brought a 120'long haul rope discovered on the first pendulum! Loaned my slides out a few years later and never got them back....bummer of bummers.
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