Cozmic Bandito-Gang Bang- South Face, Mt. Watkins

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Messages 161 - 180 of total 192 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Jan 15, 2012 - 01:04pm PT
Survival... yes it does.

Mucci... I just asked John about that... will see what he says, but I think you are pulling my leg. A day?
deuce4

climber
Hobart, Australia
Jan 15, 2012 - 02:52pm PT
I like the idea of it, but I never did get up the South Face of Watkins (save for the SE buttress).

I did several first one day ascents in Yosemite--Lost Arrow Spire and Quarter Domes, but not Watkins. Not sure who got that one.

cheers
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 15, 2012 - 03:11pm PT
Survival... yes it does.

Is there a link I can look at?

Hi Deuce!
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Jan 15, 2012 - 04:18pm PT
Survival... I will track it down and post info. ber busy at the moment.
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jan 19, 2012 - 02:43am PT
Paul Gagner:

16.Aug 1987 South Face, Mt. Watkins 22h:20mins
first one day solo ascent

Found at yosemitebigwall.com

Sorry for falsely nameing you on the solo John :0
Ihateplastic

Trad climber
It ain't El Cap, Oregon
Jan 19, 2012 - 11:13am PT
Survival...**
The climb on the massive right wall of Watkins is Escape From Freedom V, 5.11c, A1.
FA: Bruce Morris & Urmas Franosch, 6/28/92 - 7/4/92
18 pitches, plenty of 5.10

The topo indicates another route to the right called Golden Dawn.

mucci... Thanks for the FSA info. Way to go Paul!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 19, 2012 - 11:28am PT
how come you like to stand in straps and not climb survivor? muhammad disapproves

+1 for gang bang though
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 12:21pm PT
Vitaliy, yes I like to "climb". I was only good to 11+ or 12- trad even when I was "good". Then I strap on wall gear, multiple ropes and a little hunger, exhaustion and dehydration and my free climbing motivation would drop.

WTF, you don't understand the ninja way of the aiders?

For example, on the Watkins route to the right, I immediately start wondering if there's a way to clean aid the 5.11 parts.......

I thought I'd climb with you, but not if you don't understand that sometimes aid is the superior technique....HA!!
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 19, 2012 - 01:18pm PT
I thought you would keep me warm in Ouray but you shut me down and I ended up going to Hyalite since you wouldn't keep me warm in Ouray. All those kazakh girls stayed single and without US and A visas too. Ninjas do not treat kazakh girls like that yo!
How many routes are there on Whatkins? Dose u know?
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 01:49pm PT
You crack me up ini !

Don't worry, we'll make it up to the mladshaya syestra someday....

Apparently there are at least two? full length routes, and room for more.
You ready for more? Better learn to aid climb ini!!!
mucci

Trad climber
The pitch of Bagalaar above you
Jan 19, 2012 - 01:57pm PT
At least 8 routes.

Nothing to see here folks....
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 02:05pm PT
Mucci, 8 like what, where, how?? Let's see some pix or topos or something!

SuperT only lists S Face. It's not like I expect Supertopo to have everything but one would think they could be slightly more up to date than SEVEN routes behind the curve!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!


What the hell?
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 19, 2012 - 02:42pm PT
You ready for more? Better learn to aid climb ini!!!

meh

but I would love to watch a sunset/sunrise from there, seems like an awesome view of Half Dome and all! Just imagine the over-saturated photos my digital camera could produce...
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 02:53pm PT
meh

That's cool. Enjoy the sport routes.
T H

Boulder climber
bouldering
Jan 19, 2012 - 03:04pm PT
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/1276383/A-New-Golden-Dawn-Mt-Watkins-Bruce-Morris-Mountain-1984
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 19, 2012 - 03:19pm PT
Enjoy the sport routes.

I don't usually climb sport routes. Was joking about 'y u standing in straps' hope u and your 'silverback' friends don't take it personal, I love you all to death, the whole gang bang team. : )
Really though a friend and I are starting to learn some aid. I even bough some jumars, aiders, hooks and started practicing..maybe will do a couple of walls in 2012. Nothing too advanced though. Would be cool to get good at this and than try doing some unclimbed remote wall in Himalayas....dreams......
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 03:28pm PT
Rock on bro, dreams are for free.

I still dream big and I'm 51, sort of a youngster in some ways and waaay old in others!!

Getting good at aid, even clean aid and a few pins, can make some huge remote things possible. You can be an amazing free climber and still come up against an unclimbed pitch that is well out of your reach.

Some quick aid skills can make the difference between the FA and a huge dangerous retreat..............
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 19, 2012 - 03:39pm PT
a drill would solve this problem (to learn aid)? Than I can put up own route up whatkins anywhere I want! Maybe I will connect it to a 5.7 hand crack some place so I can tell people I 'climbed' it! Sure it would see a repeat...5.7 c1 grade VI (cuz there would be a lot of bolts to clip) lol

survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 19, 2012 - 03:41pm PT
I'll do the second ascent if you put a 5.7 C1 route up Watkins.

Vitaliy's Wet Dreamm VI, 5,7, C1
Vitaliy M.

Mountain climber
San Francisco
Jan 19, 2012 - 03:55pm PT
You have a few FAs somewhere?

One doesn't have to be young to be young. I have plenty of 'young' friends whose lives are boring as sh#t IMO. Same thing all over. Work mon-fri, bars/clubs fri/sat, same old air head chicks, same ones puke in bathrooms, same ones getting 'in trouble.' May appear fun to some I guess, but to me it seems boring. So don't be like that survival, do our big walls, go squirrel hunting or whatever else you do to stay young...
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