Web-surfing Moraine Dome's Adventure Potential (big files)

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ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
the ground up
Topic Author's Original Post - Jan 25, 2009 - 05:16pm PT
Googling photos of Moraine Dome begs the question if there are any established routes up there , or if anybody thinks they see a line . Considering the XXL approach etc , what's the consensus ?
Captain...or Skully

Social climber
North of the Owyhees
Jan 25, 2009 - 06:09pm PT
A fine stone....And a good walk has its own reward.
In addition to one you could find upon that grand face........
ß Î Ø T Ç H

climber
the ground up
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2009 - 04:10am PT
Sanjan

Boulder climber
a prissy pit
Jan 27, 2009 - 01:53am PT
Shades of Tenaya Peak or Cloud's Rest no ?
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 22, 2012 - 02:39am PT
Actually the photos you found are of Sugarloaf Dome (7683'),
which is described in the Roper Yosemite Valley guidebooks, and in Secor.
It has at least 2 routes, which start by scrambling up to the brushy ledge halfway up.
1. SW Face by Salathe' and Hopson, aids a left-diagonalling crack system for several pitches.
2. S Face by Chouinard and Frost, does a long 5.9 traverse to the right.
Probably both climb the sunlit upper face in your first photo.

Minerals (Bryan Law) also did some new routes on what he called Moraine Dome; they may actually be on Sugarloaf Dome - need to check!

Sugarloaf Dome is not labelled on the standard topo map
(I added the label to the cropped Merced Peak quad below).

Moraine Dome (8005') is higher and not as steep, but is labelled on the standard topo map.


The East Face of Sugarloaf Dome looks a little steeper, but it has several diagonal ramps which suggests the climbing may not be too hard.
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
the crowd MUST BE MOCKED...Mocked I tell you.
Jun 22, 2012 - 03:27am PT
ok, ok, ok, I'll go already. sheesh. pushy crowd with your "pics"


LOL


Joe, what's the story? You climbed anything back there?


Starr King is still on my list.
Adamame

climber
Santa Cruz
Jun 22, 2012 - 10:26am PT
I've spotted the existing lines on the West Face of Bunnell Point. That is where I think there is the most potential for some more good stuff.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jun 22, 2012 - 04:05pm PT
Adamame,

Here's my first overlay guess for Golden Bear on Bunnell Point from the other thread that has disappeared:
Is this in roughly the right location?
I understand it takes the left big dike and the NW Face takes the right big dike.

Here's another photo which shows 2 big dikes more clearly.
Secor says they join, and the right one appears to have the
"inverted Y close to the ground" that Brad's topo mentions.
Does this left dike match up with the start for Golden Bear you saw?
(If so, my first overlay guess is too far left).


I don't see a bridge across the river for access, but maybe the crossing is not so bad, as both FAs were done in June.
Sheets

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Jul 3, 2012 - 08:35pm PT

Good to see the topo.
I hiked up L-YV last weekend on my way to Mt. Clark. Had never been up there and was really impressed. Yosemite is the park that keeps on giving!
When the river goes around Bunnell Point there looks like there could be some fun, moderate routes up the cliff across the river from the trail.
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Jan 26, 2014 - 03:34am PT
Bump for Sugarloaf story trolling....
Messages 1 - 10 of total 10 in this topic
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