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Andy D
Trad climber
Colorado
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Feb 12, 2009 - 10:47pm PT
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FAO P Kingsbury
Did 2nd pitch of Digital Extraction in 2000 - at the recomendation of BrassNuts I believe. It was twice as long as the 1st but no moves any harder. Unbelievably good - easily better than Bloodguard. I heard it might be a bit overgrown now though.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Feb 12, 2009 - 10:54pm PT
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Man, that Private Idaho shizzle looks like the real dizzle!
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tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
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Feb 12, 2009 - 10:57pm PT
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Awesome looking climbs here, but I do have to chime in about our local crag.
Cannibal at Little Egypt, is not a finger crack, it's thin hands, but lately I think the beta is plug a piece and lay the f-in thing back until the knob and hope you are not setting up a groundfall.
Tom
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
the outer bitterroots
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Feb 12, 2009 - 11:31pm PT
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as always, late to the dance.
so many of the routes mentioned are _sweet_. (skinny dudes like me especially like finger cracks). i guess if i had to think on the intergalactic scale, butterballs would likely win.
but my vote in this thread would be for a route from the turf of my youth -- the turf i suspect all of us forever use as the measure of all routes.
this said, so how's'about Airation at Cathedral. _sweet_
richross' vote for A Dare By The Sea also struck me. also a place from my youth. what a pretty route and a pretty place to be, the waves so close. that and it was first done by a guy dear to me, a rock stud kind enough to take a then young teen under his wing. now sadly gone from us, Jim Adair.
~~~
great thread. i have been adding stuff unknown to me to my travel plans/wish list.
^,,^
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Feb 13, 2009 - 12:09pm PT
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Hey Survival,
which Private Idaho are you referring to? Is there a picture of
it in this thread?
If you mean the one at City of Rocks, that's a really good
climb, but the finger section has so many holds you don't have
to touch the crack at all.
Skip the 100-ft convenience anchor and finish the pitch. 5.6
roof finish awaits you.
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P.Kingsbury
Trad climber
the jeep
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2009 - 03:58pm PT
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thanks for the input andy!!1
according to frank, he thought that the pitch had never been repeated.....very cool to hear that u did it....def on my to do list....was gonna try it last season, but it was full of grass, and i didnt want to garden on lead.......
the rangers recently cleaned refractal last fall, a fingers pitch i havent tried but Mike F. said was one of his fav's at the tower!!!
torpedo bay, long canyon
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YayP
Trad climber
Santa Cruz, CA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 04:30pm PT
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"Splitters" from Estes Park, CO come to mind: J-Crack, Mission Impossible, Loose Ends, and Cheap Date on The Book, Lumpy Ridge. Little Twin Owls Finger Crack also on Lumpy. Days of Heaven on the Rock of Ages in RMNP. So much to do in your backyard, I miss Estes!
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Feb 22, 2009 - 01:15pm PT
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Keepin this one alive... Crimpergirl on P2 of Beggar's Buttress, Lower Cathedral
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Feb 22, 2009 - 01:31pm PT
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Whoa - that was super fun!!
Edit:
Here is BrassNuts on Flight Deck in Indian Creek in the fall -
Later we went to Red Rocks...leave it to BN to find the most Indian Creek looking feature there!
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dustonian
climber
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Feb 22, 2009 - 02:57pm PT
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Nice shot of Beggar's!! That pitch is bitchin'.... the last crux pitch also killer fingers.
What about the second pitch of Fine Jade on the Rectory...?
Oh yeah, how do you add photos to a post?
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BrassNuts
Trad climber
Boulder Colorado
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Feb 22, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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"Blood on the Tracks", Dylan Wall, San Rafael Swell, UT
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Feb 22, 2009 - 06:28pm PT
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Vern Clevenger on Mellow Yellow,Gunks 1980.
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Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
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Feb 22, 2009 - 08:52pm PT
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With corrected horizon. :) Excellent belay technique there Bob R! I bet BrassNuts thinks Bob is awake! Heh heh!
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Mar 13, 2009 - 01:34am PT
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BUMP
Because I fear the wide.
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d-know
Trad climber
electric lady land
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Mar 19, 2009 - 06:58pm PT
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bump 4 finger lookin goods.
and to keep the climbing
shizz up front.
tkingsbury or any of you
other montana cats,
can you shed any more
light on the kanzler
bros.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Mar 20, 2009 - 10:21am PT
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Hoots
climber
Tacoma, Toyota
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Mar 20, 2009 - 11:26am PT
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Finger lickin' lock bump!
Jaws at Mt. Woodson
no, i do not know how to resize! its an OW! ahhhh!
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nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
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Dec 28, 2009 - 03:11pm PT
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Nice bump for eye candy!
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chum
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 28, 2009 - 04:02pm PT
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Goldfinger! Only 5.12a...
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