Machete Direct Trip Report 1/10/09

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Messages 21 - 38 of total 38 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Manny

Social climber
tempe
Jan 13, 2009 - 01:58pm PT
Nice TR; volcanic breccia is also found at Camelback Mtn in Phx AZ. It looks like I'd feel right at home.
PP

Trad climber
SF,CA
Jan 13, 2009 - 02:10pm PT
When I did MD I went too far to the left looking for the second pitch (or third ?) and went up an unprotected water chute for 60+ feet. It was a bit scary.
nutjob

Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
Jan 13, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
Good job guys! I'll ride the coat-tails of your trip reports til I make time to get back out there :)
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Jan 13, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
Manny, I climbed once on Camelback Mountain. Holy wow, the rock was kitty litter! You'd certainly feel at home at Pinnacles. From what I saw of Camelback, you'd mostly think you were on really good rock. Camelback rock seemed as bad as the worst Pinnacles routes I've ever been on.
piquaclimber

Trad climber
Durango
Jan 13, 2009 - 03:38pm PT
Nice report Zander.
I didn't know about this place. I'll have to add it to the list of places worth visiting. :)

Cheers,
Brad
hamid

Trad climber
Berkeley, California
Jan 13, 2009 - 07:06pm PT
This was the first climb I ever did. Actually we didn't do the direct variation. Anyway, this was the climb that got me hooked. 9 years later, I'm still hooked...

Peace,

-Hamiz
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2009 - 08:37pm PT
Hey Hamid,
Long time!
PP,
That pitch is now rated 10b X! We were pretty careful not to go over there.
Zander
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jan 13, 2009 - 09:20pm PT
So, I may be hittin' the Pinns this weekend for the first time. The better rock quality is West side, right, as well as the camping?

Anything I should know, must do routes, etc...
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 13, 2009 - 10:06pm PT
You'd dig it, Manny! Many climbs there are even more solid than Bomberos Away! It's not for everyone, but you've got the skill/experience set to feel comfortable there from the beginning.
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Jan 13, 2009 - 10:11pm PT
cheers to a good TR
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jan 13, 2009 - 10:33pm PT
Can I get some f-king beta, please?

Don't make me start a political thread....
davidji

Social climber
CA
Jan 13, 2009 - 11:06pm PT
Thx for the TR Zander! Makes me want to get up there.

Yup, Steve & I climbed Sunday.

Brad thx for the beta in the parking lot. Clint & Dennis thx for the beta on the missing crux bolt on Lava Falls! The bolt is there now I'm sure.

It might have been 6 yrs since I was at Pinnacles last. Fun!
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Jan 13, 2009 - 11:48pm PT
Bluering: camping on the East Side only. Good rock on both sides, depends on what you decide to climb (likewise, you can find bad rock on both sides). Large concentration of good climbs in Bear Gulch (close to parking lot on East Side). Also huge concentration of climbers in same place. Super hiking, location and climbing (mostly moderates) to be found in the High Peaks, which is accessed from either side.

That's a thumbnail. Ixxnay on the political thread?
Zander

Trad climber
Berkeley
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2009 - 12:11am PT
"Don't make me start a political thread...."

My life passed before my eyes for a minute there... Gotta go sit down.... try to recover.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Jan 14, 2009 - 01:00am PT
davidji,

> Clint & Dennis thx for the beta on the missing crux bolt on Lava Falls! The bolt is there now I'm sure.

Yes, we placed all the glue-in bolts (1/2" x 6") on Sunday just before sunset, including that one which was missing when you and Steve were on Lava Falls. Sorry about that!

Of course, the bird nesting closures at the Balconies (also High Peaks, Yaks, and other places) start this Friday, so Balconies routes will have to wait until next fall.

bluering,

The beta in Brad's guidebook is very good - just look at the stars if you want to start on some of the better routes.
Most people start with Discovery Wall or Monolith - better rock quality and fairly short approaches.
bluering

Trad climber
Santa Clara, Ca.
Jan 14, 2009 - 11:32am PT
Mtnyoung and Clint, thanks, that helps.

(sorry I got a little bitchy)
guido

Trad climber
Santa Cruz
Jan 14, 2009 - 06:24pm PT
Curious?

Is this the original Machete Direct route of the early 60's you are talking about?
mtnyoung

Trad climber
Twain Harte, California
Jan 14, 2009 - 06:57pm PT
Guido: I think you're talking about a different route, The West Face. This route was done in 1963. It uses a bolt ladder to get up onto The Machete, but then traverses way north on a third class section. The West Face then finishes to the top of The Machete by way of two more pitches.

In 1974, Glen Denny and Gary Colliver put up a four pitch, more direct start to The West Face (hence the name "Machete Direct"). These four pitches connect with The West Face at the end of that route's third class traverse. They then share the last two pitches.
Messages 21 - 38 of total 38 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
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