muir wall

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survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jan 4, 2009 - 04:20pm PT
Great effort and a fine outcome. Good stuff!

As bhilden said, it is still worth having the debate from time to time. We have to try and form our own game, even with unwritten rules.

It is interesting to me that coz can come down so HARD on Robinson and Jones for rap bolting with a hand drill (legal),
but not be willing to discuss having a powerdrill on El Cap, (illegal) I'm not saying either is better than the other, just that if you want to slam dance one of them, you have to entertain some incoming about the other.

Again, I have great respect for all you guys.
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Jan 4, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
hmmm........
rwedgee

Ice climber
canyon country,CA
Jan 4, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
Exactly...stop bagging on everyone elses style because yours is also whacked.
Captain...or Skully

Trad climber
North of the Owyhees
Jan 4, 2009 - 06:23pm PT
That's a valid point coz, makes ALL the difference.......
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 4, 2009 - 08:27pm PT
Oh man, I've done the tourist route up the shield headwall, left this suburban schoolteacher shaking in his blue meanies. I can't imagine freeclimbing up there, cool shiiet!
drljefe

climber
Toostoned, AZ
Jan 4, 2009 - 08:35pm PT
Core
Rankin

climber
Bishop, CA
Jan 4, 2009 - 08:44pm PT
I've seen ground-up routes that are terrible routes, and I've seen top-down routes that are really bad as well. I've climbed and loved routes of both varieties. Some of this ground-up argument is just a way of saying, 'ground up is harder,' which is true. Whether it's somehow more moral or ethical, well.... I know some 20-35 foot bolted routes that were put up from the ground that will make you shake your head...in disgust. And I know some top down routes that are full on dangerous, and beautiful.
I don't really care how other people are doing it, as long as what as left is nice. But I gotta say, the Muir Wall free adventure by coz and kid was amazing. Luck Fober, though.
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 4, 2009 - 08:54pm PT
I'll echo what Jay Breaux just said....

That’s the way my voice-activated software picked it up…how you like that JayBro?
*Could be the new you, maybe only the beret-clad coffeeshop version of JBro or something*
(and I never even did the Shield, but you'all get the idea)


Okay here’s the cover,
Who’s got the article on hand?
(please scan each page at 700 pixels wide and save at 200 ~ KB)



Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:26pm PT
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:27pm PT
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:28pm PT
I remember this shot from when the article was published. Whoa!

Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:29pm PT
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:30pm PT
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:31pm PT
Mike Bolte

Trad climber
Planet Earth
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:32pm PT
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:39pm PT
"stemming and kneebars," looking at the photo, I always thought that looked like my kind of pitch...
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Jan 4, 2009 - 09:51pm PT
Three cheers for Mike Bolte !!!

Coz on the 24th
Kurt on the 27th

Outstanding shots from Epperson.
Can't wait to start reading.........
This SuperTweako™ gig really shines sometimes.
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