General Duty Crampon Advice

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Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
NotIt

Trad climber
SF, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 24, 2008 - 03:37pm PT
Looking to pick up a pair of crampons for light to medium duty glacier and AT approach use. No technical climbing.

For alpine summer use I'd prefer something compatible with a heavy trail runner style shoe, but obviously same rig needs to be compatible with AT boots for ski mountaineering.

Any recommendations?

G12?
Petzl Charlet Vasak?
BD Contact?
Other?

Merry Christmas All.

-NotIt
Chris2

Trad climber
Dec 24, 2008 - 04:01pm PT
Go with aluminum if you are not frontpointing or going to be on any rock.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Dec 24, 2008 - 04:05pm PT
I like the BD Contacts. They also make a flexible spring-steel linking bar, for use with flexible footwear.

Steel is good if you find yourself on lower-angled late season glacier ice - french technique works great in hiking boots.
adam d

climber
CA
Dec 24, 2008 - 04:19pm PT
for strapping on approach shoes in the summer, light is right. I use the Grivel Air Techs. Lightweight aluminum and shorter teeth help them pack a little smaller and make walking a little easier. They're not going to be durable enough for all around winter use or even fit on your AT boots probably but you'll be much happier with them if they're getting carried up rock climbs with icy descents.
pissed

Trad climber
Lake Placid NY and Scranton PA
Dec 24, 2008 - 08:35pm PT
A vote for the Petzl Vasak. I have the flexlock version that fits my hiking boots (no heel or toe bails). I have climbed WI 4 and done a lot of slide climbing with them. Solid construction, no issues at all. The attachment points for the rings that hold the straps to the crampon are bent metal and on mine they are not crimped to seal a gap. At first, the ring would slip out but a little elbow grease closed the gap and no issues since. With the flexlock, the straps can be used to attach the crampons to any boot. Because you want something that will work with trail runners and ski boots I suggest the flexlock. Highly recommended crampon.
SteveW

Trad climber
The state of confusion
Dec 24, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
If your heart is set on new, get the BD's.
They do great stuff. Check out used places and see if you
can't get some used Chouinard/Salewa adjustables. Always good.
slobmonster

Trad climber
berkeley, ca
Dec 25, 2008 - 02:04am PT
Good luck finding Grivel 'poons these days, at least in North America.
tooth

Mountain climber
Guam
Dec 25, 2008 - 07:44am PT
Picked up some green aluminum from REI last minute last year for some peak bagging in the Sierra. Camp brand I think. They were really light, fit well over my 5.10 guide tennies, and didn't wear out on rock. I wasn't wearing much of a pack, but they performed great for the the few days I needed them. I usually use the BD sabertooth with my mountain boots for ice, etc, but these were light and comfy for running up glaciers.
Chris2

Trad climber
Dec 25, 2008 - 08:14am PT
I saw those tooth, damn they are light.
mongrel

Trad climber
Truckee, CA
Dec 25, 2008 - 09:02pm PT
Another possibility: Katoulas (not sure on the spelling). Super-light, easily adjustable to fit anything from a running shoe to tele boots (or can't-tele boots if you must). Another major advantage, they are very compact either on or inside your pack. They make a steel point and alum point version; latter is lighter but not quite so good on ice or if you have to cross talus. Check 'em out before you buy. Some of the other suggested alternatives can't be adjusted enough to fit ski boots, big disadvantage for spring skiing.
NotIt

Trad climber
SF, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2008 - 12:33am PT
Mongrel -

Can't even get google to suggest an alternative spelling on the Katoulas. Any other ideas? I'd love to check them out.
rhyang

climber
SJC
Dec 26, 2008 - 11:05am PT
www.kahtoola.com

I tried them when they first came out (initially just aluminum). Didn't like 'em, and went with Stubai ultralights instead (even climbed Avy Gulch on Shasta with them). I preferred the longer teeth and more secure bindings on the stubai's, but that's just me. btw The kahtoola flex bars will fit in the stubai crampons just fine.
Messages 1 - 12 of total 12 in this topic
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