Anybody Still Get Insomnia?

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Messages 1 - 67 of total 67 in this topic
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 21, 2008 - 05:15pm PT
Outside the snow is piling up and all is frozen.....But long ago, in an area not far away, a brave Stonemaster did battle with the Affliction upon the sunny granite......From Climbing Nov/Dec 1973. Make you wake up in a cold sweat once the jams get bad for Tobin!







apogee

climber
Dec 21, 2008 - 05:23pm PT
Truly bad*ss. In a 2" swami, no less.

RIP, Tobin.

Thanks for the great post, Steve!
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 21, 2008 - 06:46pm PT
What a loss. Tobin was so cool.
Largo

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Dec 21, 2008 - 06:53pm PT
That article insinuates that I did the first free on Insomnia. Not true. Jim Ericson beat us to it. We got the 2nd.

JL
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Dec 21, 2008 - 06:56pm PT
hey there say.... i did not know who he was, until another kind supertopo guy, shared a small bit about tobin...

thanks for the nice share...

say--i am watching a medium sized "near adult size" blizzard outside--been there all day... it is nice to get to read your post now---i will keep this memory, and think on it, whenever a blizzard comes round again...

and--i mean that kindly... i also made a necklace, and earlier had the grandkid-gals over... also missed work, and one gal is most likely mad at me--but i could not drive through that...

you see----you have given me another treasure, for to cherish today... i will now soon learn more about this rock-climbing man....


thank you so very much for sharing... i never knew there was magazine (edit: oops, ok--it see, it is AN ARTICLE on a named rock) (not a magazine)

:)

say----if anyone can, please post MORE about his man, so i can learn from you-all as well...
god bless...
dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Dec 21, 2008 - 09:54pm PT
Yeah,As good-a pitch as you can find any where.Some say the best in SoCal. (10.d)? old school 10.d

Bruce
jlf

Trad climber
Dec 21, 2008 - 10:04pm PT
Check out the big knob above the guy in the butt bag, beginning of the left slanting hands. I watched a guy years ago hammer this thing off, I have always wondered why this is never discussed.
apogee

climber
Dec 22, 2008 - 01:22am PT
Sewellymon- I assume you mean Yaniro?

Can anybody else corroborate this? If it's true that there was little controversy about that rock alteration, it's an interesting point in time of the evolution of attitudes towards such techniques. Not trying to be judgemental, but if that were to have happened recently on the SFHD, that thread would double in size.
bvb

Social climber
flagstaff arizona
Dec 22, 2008 - 01:32am PT
sent that rig in '76, and those photos were much on my mind.
Klimmer

Mountain climber
San Diego
Dec 22, 2008 - 11:22am PT
It was articles like this that inspired and got me into climbing (the movie "Solo" also). I never personally knew Tobin. Plenty of Supertopians here that did. Sure would have liked too. Way ahead of his time. And he could really push it. Seemed he was good at everything; he was a well rounded climber.

Good attitude about life. I recall reading at one time he was getting into ministry in his own way and teaching bible study classes. The 70s were a water shed and a important time in the Jesus movement. Very good music also: Larry Norman, Mustard Seed Faith, Oden Fong, Keith Green to name a few . . .

I recall someone saying in another distant thread that someone got Tobin's diary after the tragic accident in Canada.

Sure would like to know, and if appropriate see what he wrote on his last climb.

Great article. Life was so much simpler it seemed.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2008 - 11:44am PT
I just have to get my foot on the bump........
Murf

climber
Dec 29, 2008 - 11:54am PT
I think that its interesting that it was commonly done in two pitches. Does it make it harder now that there isn't any fixed hexes?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 24, 2009 - 10:38pm PT
What, some scoundrel chopped the---------bump!
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Jan 27, 2009 - 09:59pm PT
My good friend AJ was asking me recently if I remembered what had happened to THE knob, as I had done it before and after. I could not remember, but he thought Tony may have been responsible for it's demise.
I hope not, what a stupid and arrogant thing to have done.

ps. It wasn't the one above Tob in the buttbag, it was the one on the traverse. It did offer a welcomed rest on that section. It isn't shown in any of these shots.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jan 27, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
Dan knew Tobin. Just curious. Was a biography ever done on his short but filled to the brim (in some respects) life ? Would really like to know .... lrl
Mungeclimber

Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
Jan 27, 2009 - 10:05pm PT
photosequenceradness4lyfe.com
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2009 - 12:26am PT
Not very many climbing sequence shots in the mags back in those days! This one was memorable.
Lynne Leichtfuss

Social climber
valley center, ca
Jan 29, 2009 - 12:45am PT
Klimmer, thanks for yo post. LrL
Thorgon

Big Wall climber
Sedro Woolley, WA
Jan 30, 2009 - 03:05am PT
Excellent, love those EB's they were the best
thing going. I also had a pair of PA's well,
still have them actually. Plus the old classic
wall boots, low ankle, steel shank, vibram sole
am I getting warmer. Packed away in a box. Better
snap a photo. They were probably one of the first
wall boots designed for some free climbing with
a rand.

Insommnia, check, better try and turn in! Sorry rambling,
but I do love the old gear!

Thor
Bart Fay

Social climber
Redlands, CA
Jan 30, 2009 - 02:52pm PT
Leavitt and Yaniro: Lap running knob chopsters.
curt wohlgemuth

Social climber
Bay Area, California
Jan 30, 2009 - 03:17pm PT
One of my favorite photos of all time: Mike Waugh on Insomnia, photo by Kevin Powell, in Randy Vogel's 1993 (?) edition of the Tahquitz/Suicide guide. Such a beautiful crack, such relaxed form.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 2, 2009 - 11:09am PT
Still keeping me up at night! Bump!
TYeary

Social climber
Huaraz, Peru
Sep 2, 2009 - 11:25am PT
MG should chime in about Miller demanding a belay shot in the middle of nowhere. Tobin was a bit miffed. We were watching from the top next to Miller as he orchestrated that shoot.
Twas seemimgly, a very long time ago now.
Tony
Fuzzywuzzy

climber
Sep 2, 2009 - 11:31am PT
Thanks Steve. What year did Lynn climb it?
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2009 - 12:13pm PT
Not sure of the date on Lynn's ascent, Tom. Late seventies would be my guess.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2009 - 10:58pm PT
I bet Largo would know....
dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Nov 2, 2009 - 04:05am PT
Alway's liked this old school shot of Lynn Hill on the route. Had another one of her hanging off that big horn off route to the right. But I'll be damn if I can find it.
Dawg-Breath.
Clint Cummins

Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
Nov 2, 2009 - 06:38am PT
Cams are old school? :-)
I suppose new school would be in shorts and a sport bra, with one cam on a gear loop.... :-)
Cool shot!
The_Kid

Trad climber
Idyllwild, CA
Nov 9, 2009 - 12:36pm PT
i think the caption on the photo of lynn was "girl climbs 5.11 and has fun" or something along that line
pyro

Big Wall climber
Calabasas
Nov 29, 2009 - 12:45am PT
Emma and I are kinda digg'n it!
Fig's Lady

Social climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 29, 2009 - 01:50am PT
Steve,
Insomnia is my middle name, however, due to the fact that Fig and I wish to be awake at least most of the time together....I am only a devout insomniac during the lull time.




Well take this as a sweet thing...Paula
Fig's Lady

Social climber
Bishop, CA
Nov 29, 2009 - 01:52am PT
P.S. I knew this was about a climb.
couchmaster

climber
pdx
Nov 29, 2009 - 07:14am PT
Nice find Steve, thanks for sharing it!
skychild

Trad climber
Birmingham, Alabama
Nov 29, 2009 - 01:13pm PT
I used to have trouble falling asleep, not I just read your threads and I pass right out.
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Nov 29, 2009 - 02:03pm PT

Insomnia" It's been years, The older I get the better I sleep.
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Nov 29, 2009 - 02:23pm PT
Looks like a pretty long set of pretty tough moves... in a row!!!



spicy!
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2009 - 05:24pm PT
If Tobin couldn't hang in there, you know that it's burly!
Fogarty

climber
BITD
Nov 29, 2009 - 09:01pm PT
I love that Patagonia photo of Lynn Hill

She was my poster girl of my youth!

BUMP!
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Nov 29, 2009 - 11:10pm PT
There's that Mike Graham guy again - he's EVERYWHERE!

How did I sleep through this one the first time?
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Mar 25, 2010 - 10:40am PT
morning coffee bump - another rad read, again thanks to Pate for making "a list of links", it made my morning reading that much easier to find : )
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jun 11, 2010 - 10:56am PT
No problem for a gamer like you, Riley! A whole different sort of animal with a rack of nuggets and no cams!
survival

Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
Aug 6, 2010 - 03:24pm PT
Riley, do it without cams!!!
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Nov 11, 2010 - 12:00am PT
interestingly, I saw this letter in Mountain 36 (looking for something else):


That Sorenson Photo
from Eric Limbach
Dear Mountain Magazine,
It was with sorry eyes that I beheld page 10 of Mountain 32, with the picture of Tobin Sorenson grimacing on lnsomnia, Suicide Rocks, Calif. We U.S. readers had been subjected to seven pages (twelve photos) of Sorenson's moves, in the winter issue of Climbing.

One might suspect that a bit of glory-seeking was behind this proliferation of photos of one person on one crack.

At the end of the essay in question, 'Poster Prints' of Sorenson on lnsomnia were offered for sale.

Glory-Seeking and Damnable Capitalism!

As for Sorenson's imbecilic body twist on Superfly - Yecch !

These types of manoeuvres, I hope, are taken by climbers for what they are: egotistical self-glorification.

Though I be a climber of moderate ability, I can still discriminate between purism and crass materialism.

lncidentally, it should be noted that Sorenson did not free lnsomnia first; it had been done free at least twice before. Mountain is by far the finest climbing magazine available in the States. Your photo reproduction is excellent, as is your coverage of international climbing developments. Perhaps, though, your editors could be a little more discerning with the scissors.

Respectfully,
Eric Limbach (Laramie)

Mountain 36
June 1974



So I had to go look for the Sorenson photo...




UNITED STATES
CALIFORNIA
Tahquitz and Suicide Rocks
On Tahquitz, Rick Accomozzo and Tobin Sorenson have free-climbed both The Passover and Lower Royal Arch, two climbs that previously relied on aid. Accomozzo also lent invaluable assistance to John Long in a brilliant ascent of The Green Arch (5.11). This route, originally 5.8 and A2, is one of the most serious yet attempted here, as protection is hard to arrange without resorting to aid. Over on Suicide, Bud Couch and Mike Dent climbed an excellent crack system called Miscalculation (5.10). Aqualung received its first free ascent from Richard Harrison, Rob Muir, Tobin Sorenson and Sibylle Hechtel, and is now considered a hard 5.10. Superfly, a rather absurd problem that involves a 15ft. jump off the top of Piasano Pinnacle over an awesome drop to land on a 5.6 friction slab, received a new twist (literally) this summer. Tobin Sorenson soloed the problem (this has been done several times before), but added a full body twist to the manoeuvre.

This year has seen outstanding progress made on Suicide and Tahquitz, with the cleaning up of old aid routes and the discovery of a number of new free climbs. The tally of hard climbs in the two areas now stands at thirty-six 5.9's, thirty-four 5.10's and nine 5.11's.

NORTH EAST
North East Winter Climbing
Hard ice climbing is growing in popularity here, and the 1972/3 season saw a number of outstanding ascents that are so far unrecorded. On Cannon Mountain John Bouchard, Henry Barber and Rick Wilcox ascended The Ghost, the first of the area's 'big walls' to be done in winter. Black Dike also had three ascents and all the climbers involved commented on the seriousness of the route.

A number of hard ice climbs were established in the Conway region by John Bragg, with various partners. The most notable was his ascent (with Wilcox) of Repentance (5.9) on Cathedral, an extremely difficult undertaking which was rendered easier by the higher temperatures of a mild winter, which meant that the ice was less brittle than normal. Several other routes on Cathedral and many
of the standard slab climbs on Whitehorse were also done.

The various problems frustrating climbing on Maine's Mt. Katadhin continue to be overcome by visiting climbers. Barber and Dave Cilley climbed a 2,000ft. gully left of Armadillo Buttress to produce the best of several discoveries thereabouts. Pokomoonshine saw the establishment of the first winter climb, with Dean Rau and Claude Suhl's ascent of Neurosis, and in North East Vermont a new ice climbing area was discovered near Lake Willoughby by Barber and Al Rubin. They climbed a slabby route on Mt. Hor and, with Mike Hartrich, returned the following day to pick one of the many steep ice flows on Mt. Pisgah to produce a climb called 2O Below Zero Gully. Another route on this mountain was pioneered later in the season by John Shelton and Ernie Richards. Both cliffs are above a road used all year round, which should make them targets for the present season.

Shawangunks
The new guide, which appeared at the end of last season, stimulated a great deal of activity as climbers became acquainted with the many recent routes which the book revealed. This activity coincided with the virtually total acceptance of the nut/fixed piton ethic, so that the sound of a peg being placed in the Gunks is about as rare as it is in Wales. The hardest routes in the guide have all been repeated. Foops received its second ascent from Henry Barber during a mild spell in January. Though this route had had to wait six years for its second ascent, it was done twice more later in the year. Persistent was climbed for the second time, on sight, by Steve Wunsch. Few new routes of any merit were climbed this year, the main emphasis being placed on the freeing of aid climbs. The new guide listed 38 routes using varying amounts of aid, but a year later only five remain. John Stannard, Steve Wunsch, John Bragg and Henry Barber have been primarily responsible for this campaign. Open Cockpit (Wunsch), To Have and Have Not (Stannard) and Kansas City (Bragg) are probably the most difficult of these climbs; while To Have and Have Not and Yellow Crack (Barber), amongst others, are very serious leads. With many of these routes graded 5.11 and some possibly even harder, this burst of climbing has resulted in a new advance in standards in the region. However, increasing numbers and possibly the new ethics have also led to a rise in the number of accidents. One fatality and a number of other serious incidents are a sobering counterweight to the more progressive developments.

New England
The past year has seen an increasing interest in the exploration of previously neglected cliffs. ln pursuing this activity, climbers have been willing to climb on rock much less solid than that of the cliffs regularly climbed. The intensive development of Humphrey's Ledge by Paul Ross with various partners, and the exploratory routes on Frankenstein Cliff (Ross and Hartrich), Willard (Jell Pheasant, Andy Middleton and Al Rubin) and Devil's Slide (Pheasant, Rubin and Dave Masury), all had to contend with quite rotten rock on cliffs that had only a few routes or had previously been completely ignored. However, not all the exploratory activity was on poor rock. Ross and a friend opened six routes over 200ft. and of moderate difficulty in one day on the Rainbow Slabs off the Kancamagus Highway. Nearby, the Crack of the Woods gave Jim Dunn and Mike Hartrich a magnificent 5.10- pitch. Near Conway, Hartrich and Rubin began development of the short but steep routes on Band M Ledge.

This activity did not mean that the traditional cliffs were neglected. Ross and Barber girdled Cannon (Magical Mystery Tour, Grade 3, 5.9, 6,000ft') in a mere six hours. In the vertical plain, Lima Beam (Grade 2, 5.8) was put up on the slabs near Lakeview by Howard Peterson, John Porter and Dave Tibbets; while Ross and visiting Londoners, Ben and Marion Wintrinham, put up Union Jack (Grade 3, 5.9, A2) left of Vertigo. The short section of aid on this route was bypassed in drier conditions by Rubin and Hartrich. Bragg and Ajax Greene bypassed the aid on Vertigo by starting up North-South-West, and traversing into Vertigo above the aid on the second pitch. This has now become the preferred way to do the route and has been graded 3, 5.9. Several new short climbs were developed along the base of the cliff by Peterson, Roger Martin and others. Last year's hardest climb, Whaleback Crack was repeated, seemingly without too much trouble, by Bouchard and Porter.

The cliff was also the scene of a very serious accident. Mark Lawrence and Dana Jones, both experienced climbers, were killed on the classic roule, Sam's Swan Song. A fall by the second, possibly caused by loose rock, was followed by failure of the leader's belay - a fixed piton. Both climbers fell about 400ft. just missing another party. Their rope caught behind a flake, stopping the fall, but both climbers died instantly.

On Cathedral Ledges, all of last year's hard routes were repeated, while new routes and further aid eliminations continued to proliferate. Of the new routes, Gypsy (5.9, Bragg and Greene), an eliminate line on Recompense, is the longest and most sustained. Asylum (5.10, Bragg and Pheasant) and Taboo (5.9, Bragg and Barber) are the most noteworthy of the shorter routes. As regards this year's aid eliminations, Airation (5.11, Barber, Bragg and Anderson) is the most difficult; while Chockline (5.10, Barber and Bragg) and Grim Reaper (5.10, Bragg and Wunsch) combine difficulty and great seriousness.

Over on Whitehorse, Hartrich finally climbed the much attempted Ninth Wave (5.9), producing the hardest friction pitch in the area. On the steep south face, Beezlebub was climbed entirely free (5.10-, Barber, Bragg, Anderson and Rubin) giving a long, sustained and varied route.

Outcrops
The girdle traverse fever touched both Ragged Mountain (Striebert and Barber) and Crow Hill, which was girdled in both directions (Barber and Striebert, Barber and Hendick). Of the recent hard routes Crow Hill's Jane (5.11) has been climbed a number of times, but both Recidivist and Ragged's Subline await further leads, though both have been top-roped. Ragged Mountain received a new guide in Spring. This was followed by a spate of top-roped lines on the blank faces between the obvious cracks, but only a few new leads. The dilemma here seems to be a choice of leads which are virtually solos or the pre-placing of bolts from rappels. This latter practice has occurred on several routes, but is generally put down by the locals. Perhaps the antidote to this over-development at Ragged is the exploration of nearby cliffs' East Peak has yielded a series of excellent climbs over the years, the best recent discovery being Reflections of Fall (5.9) by Striebert and Anderson. Pinnacle Rock was the scene of several climbing visits, mostly by New Haven climbers, with Great Expectations (5.8, Rocky Keeler and Rubin) being the best of the routes put up.

Finally, the years total of tragedies was increased by a double fatality in Quincy Quarries. Bob Hanson and Carolyn Echardt, both 17, were killed in a rock slide when visiting a little frequented part of the Quarry.
Correspondents: Muir and Rubin

Mountain 32
February 1974

dogtown

Trad climber
JackAssVille, Wyoming
Nov 11, 2010 - 12:27am PT
The best hand crack in SOCAL. I say.

Dog.
dee ee

Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
Nov 11, 2010 - 06:46pm PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2010 - 12:44pm PT
Nice shots!
Friend

climber
Jan 12, 2011 - 10:23am PT
Flipping through some old magazines at breakfast this morning, I came across a blurb in a 1979 issue of Mountain:
"Tahquitz/Suicide – there has been a spate of free soloing this summer... of particular note was John Long’s free solo of Insomnia 5.11"

Largo – care to share any recollections of that day? That musta been a buzz....

How many others have soloed it? Any more recollections of this awesome pitch??
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Jan 12, 2011 - 12:53pm PT
Never let the truth get in the way of a good story...

Largo sent the thing while John Long watched The Fight Club...LOL
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 7, 2013 - 07:46pm PT
Alter Ego Bump...

From the Mountain article above.

Superfly, a rather absurd problem that involves a 15ft jump from the top of paisano Pinnacle over an awesome drop to land on a 5.6 friction slab, received a new twist (literally) this summer. Tobin Sorenson soloed the problem (that has been done before), but added a full body twist to the manoeuvre.

Anyone ever repeat the Super Duperfly?
jabbas

Trad climber
phx AZ
Apr 7, 2013 - 08:23pm PT
What a cool line !! Today's 14's and 15's are positively boorish. Looks like 9 and 10 of the past have that cool factor that escapes today's " gym rat overhang, sequence specific pizza puzzle climb on limestone" line that sorta dominates the here and now. My take - no rant !!
Ksolem

Trad climber
Monrovia, California
Apr 7, 2013 - 08:37pm PT
For me there's a sweet spot on the left. My left hand is palming it, then my left foot is on it. Looks like Dogtown has the same idea above. On a hot day when that spot and the crack get greasy it's a whole 'nutha story...

Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 8, 2013 - 09:32am PT
That note in Mountain Magazine was inaccurate in a couple of ways. Tobin became well known as a result of that photo in Mountain Magazine and he loved it. For our circle of ambitious teenagers, to be mentioned in the international chronicle, Mountain Magazine, alongside the names of legendary British heroes was heady stuff.

One error was that the article implied that Tobin made the first free ascent of Insomnia, when in fact it had been freed a a year or so earlier by Jim Erickson and Scott Stewart. And there was another inaccuracy that grated on me at the time.

Accomazzo also lent invaluable assistance to John Long in a brilliant ascent of The Green Arch (5.11).


Seeing this again brought back an old feeling of indignation. The Green Arch was, and is, a proud moment for me because it was my best lead to date, it is a nice line, and I was able to do it in front of my two, more talented friends, Tobin and John.

Invaluable assistance, indeed! Freeing the route was my idea in the first place and I provided a top rope!

Whew. Glad to have gotten this off my chest. :)

I shouldn’t have been surprised. Largo’s outsize personality and climbing prowess were so formidable that he cast a big shadow.
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
Apr 8, 2013 - 10:47am PT
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Apr 8, 2013 - 11:04am PT
Wonderful climb....mega classic in my book.
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
extraordinaire
Nov 1, 2014 - 10:39pm PT
Todd Smith
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 4, 2014 - 04:39am PT
saying little seeing all as if this was last week
slap me it is time to wake up that was no dream
that was my life
justthemaid

climber
Jim Henson's Basement
Nov 4, 2014 - 05:57am PT
Great bump. Love dat history stuff.

There's a not-so-flattering picture of myself dangling dangling like a fish getting an aid lesson on Insomnia somewhere. I think I'm wearing hat and a parka (cause it was so damn cold that day).

Insomnia? Nope. I think my partner fell asleep since it took me eternity get to the anchors.;)

PS: Great picture of Jeff Chris. He was such a baby in that pic.
guyman

Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
Nov 4, 2014 - 10:31am PT


Not as nice as Daves photo, but heck, its old.
Gnome Ofthe Diabase

climber
Out Of Bed
Nov 11, 2014 - 07:35pm PT
bump
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - May 25, 2015 - 09:08am PT
Bleary eyed bump
the goat

climber
north central WA
May 25, 2015 - 10:48am PT
A great crack climb in the midst of incredible face routes. Loved the splitter finish. w/messers Hudson & Hones(sic)
dhayan

climber
los angeles, ca
May 25, 2015 - 11:46am PT
Still haven't gotten insomnia...hope to get it one day!
Spider Savage

Mountain climber
The shaggy fringe of Los Angeles
May 25, 2015 - 12:19pm PT
ß Î Ø T Ç H

Boulder climber
ne'er–do–well
Sep 6, 2015 - 11:51pm PT

Yaniro was reputed to have hammered the knob off, but i don't think it was the one in the photo. The knob he removed is/ was a smaller one partway through the thin hands/ final section. (It's been 25 years, so i could be wrong... I think that knob offended him; he felt it ruined the continuity of that section. Nobody got to tweaked. He waz right- no need for a fluff-out rest in the middle of a sustained pump-fest
Removing holds is just as bad as chipping new ones.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Feb 11, 2017 - 07:05pm PT
Insomniac Bump...
reallyy big star

Social climber
some, place
Feb 12, 2018 - 07:09am PT
i have rodeo dreams.
where my bed becomes a bull.

all of the angel's hands
grow long nails and dig
into me as they shove
me deeper into the
lofty fill trying
to supress my angst.

but despite their happless
caress i'm thrown awake
and thrown right the f*#k out of bed.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Mar 23, 2019 - 12:42pm PT
Sleeper Bump...
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