Upper Yosemite Falls: who is the FA on the ice climb?

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Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 18, 2008 - 07:40pm PT
The question came up at the gym a couple of nights ago: who was the team on the first ascent of the upper yosemite falls ice climb?

The answer might be that there hasn't been an FA of that climb...

...what's the answer?
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Dec 18, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
I know who did the first base jump off it.. Oh, that's not what you asked... Sorry.
T2

climber
Cardiff by the sea
Dec 18, 2008 - 07:43pm PT
I don't believe that one has been bagged.
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 18, 2008 - 07:46pm PT
nada..
Peter Haan

Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
Dec 18, 2008 - 08:13pm PT
This has to be the best troll Ed H. has ever generated. Very fun concept too!!

best, ph.
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 18, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
waddaya mean troll??

Some day some "GUY'S" gonna free that thing...

WJF
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 18, 2008 - 08:18pm PT
Ed Hartouni & Vic Tishous, 1/20/'09. Conditions permitting.
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 18, 2008 - 08:22pm PT
Yeah Jaybro, although I was thinking maybe Ed Hartouni and Bugs McKeith....
T H

climber
Last >>
Dec 18, 2008 - 08:23pm PT
Who did Nevada falls ? That was almost as unbelievable at the time .
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 08:25pm PT
One of my earliest Yosemite memories was belaying on the Arrow Direct in March of 1971 and watching huge ice sheets falling off the wall.

I'd be hearing all the angels, Bugs included, and hoping they would see me through before the thing melted.

Hey, ice climbing is just aid, right? How hard could it be?
klaus

Big Wall climber
San F*#kincisco
Dec 18, 2008 - 08:41pm PT
it hasn't been done but I'd suggest trying it at night. Climate Change (aka Global Warming) doesn't help.

I was there when Shipley/Fosburg did Nevada. It looked insane.

gimme one 'a them Ole E's, cuz

awright, where they at?

in tha refrigerator, foo!
WBraun

climber
Dec 18, 2008 - 08:48pm PT
Last winter frozen solid.

Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
I remember that Werner, and I was in the Valley that day too! but no ice tools, and anyway, you'd have to get up and go early and fast... and not worry... somehow...
Jingy

Social climber
Flatland, Ca
Dec 18, 2008 - 09:05pm PT
You've got to be kidding me......

Are people thinking about doing that thing?

oh the insanity!!!!


Hold Up EDIT: If anyone is going to be doing this in the near, or far future.. Let me know ahead of time. I'd like to be there to see that.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Dec 18, 2008 - 09:10pm PT
Werner/Ed how long did that last?

It's moments like that, that I thank the powers that be, that I'm way too chicken to try that stuff.
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Dec 18, 2008 - 09:13pm PT
I don't think it lasted very long, but Werner would probably know... I'm not sure it lasted the day.
WBraun

climber
Dec 18, 2008 - 09:17pm PT
Not long Jay.

It fell apart before noon.

And klaus, to many old E's hahaha

It was Shipley/Fosberg on Sentinel Falls not Nevada. Nevada was Shipley/Wbraun/Cos. Unfortunately Cos got hit by a huge chunk of ice in his face while belaying Walt on the first pitch and was bleeding so we told him to go back to the Valley and get checked out. Turned out it wasn't to bad but but he missed out on the climb.

Cos was pissed and I don't blame him.
Karl Baba

Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
Dec 18, 2008 - 09:18pm PT
"The question came up at the gym a couple of nights ago: who was the team on the first ascent of the upper yosemite falls ice climb? "

I'm wondering if ya'll were talking about climbing the cone at the bottom. Heard a few dicey stories of early forays up the cone that almost had bad endings.

Peace

Karl
Walleye

climber
El Portal On the Merced Riviera
Dec 18, 2008 - 09:20pm PT
I remember that day. If you were prepared and ready to go and started at 4:00am (at the base I mean) and could do 1600 feet in, say 6-8 hours, you MAYBE would have had a chance. This assumes of course that everything is there for the taking..

Of course this is just bullshit speculation on my part.

Yogi might like to chime in..... If there EVER was a day though, that was it...

Edit: Yogi already did chime in I see.
WBraun

climber
Dec 18, 2008 - 09:23pm PT
Upper Yosemite Falls that day would never had a chance.

It was paper thin.
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