NEWS: Alex Honnold Free Big Wall Then Hard Sport

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Mick Ryan

Trad climber
Kendal, English Lake District
Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 17, 2008 - 03:17pm PT
What planet is Alex Honnold on?

Amazing climber.

America, you should be proud. The real McCoy.

Dec 17: Alex Honnold Free Big Wall Then Hard Sport
by Mick Ryan - UKClimbing.com

Alex Honnold, 23, the extremely talented American climber, just doesn't let up. After an amazing trip to the UK he returned to the US and got stuck in.

In early December, first was an ascent of the Huber's 1998 route on El Cap, El Nino (VI 5.13c, 29 pitches) over five days, then it was straight down to Sonora and the blocky basalt crag of Jailhouse Rock for an ascent of Burning Down the House, an 8c/5.14b sport climb established by Justen Sjong.

Honnold has much experience free climbing big walls: ascents include a one-day free ascent ........ etc


Read more at http://www.ukclimbing.com/news/older.html?month=12&year=2008#n45511
aldude

climber
Monument Manor
Dec 17, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
note : El Nino is not a free climb.....(A0)!
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Dec 17, 2008 - 04:18pm PT
I'll add that Alex is not only a strong and ballsy climber, but also has a great attitude!

He and his friend passed us on Zodiac trying to work on freeing it. They were having a blast and were pretty hilarious. Our junk show was totaly in their way, and we felt bad for slowing their push down. They didn't seem to mind at all, and even entertained us by dyno-ing to our haulbag! We made them coffee and we all enjoyed being up on the big stone together.

The funniest moment was when Alex was run out with nothing between him and the belayer but one head and a shitty tipped alien. He was climbing up about 10ft below our ledge. I gotta repost this one quote from our conversation:


Alex: "Sh#t how'd you guys get through this section?"
Us: "Beaks dude!"
Alex: "F*#k...what's a Beak? Is it like a hook? I have some hooks..."
Us: "Uh, sorta..."

So he pulls a Talon off his harness and tries fiddling it all sideways into a crappy beak/head scar.

Us: "Uh, that's prolly not gunna work dude. Want us to send you down a Beak?"
Alex: "Uh....How about a rope?"

So he monkeys hand-over-hand up the rope, feet barely smearing on the overhanging wall and is like, "F*#k this is pumpy!" So he decides to abandon the rope and go back to the rock. Now he's way run out over that old head...

So he's moving up to our bivi, one move away, and blows a gaston crimp and falls! But somehow he catches himself on a small slopey shelf with one hand, all other three points off!

He recovers and looks up at us white as a ghost. "Dude! Did you guys see that?"
Us: "F*#k yeah, crazy man."
Alex: "Hold on, I'm gunna dyno to your haulbag and mantel your ledge"
Us: "Nice, want some coffee?"

Hillarious morning...

Prolly not the shinning moment Alex wants posted all over the net, but I thought it was cool to see someone climbing at such a high level and not taking themselves too seriously.

Mad Props Alex! Keep after it!
WBraun

climber
Dec 17, 2008 - 04:37pm PT
Wow! Hahahaha

Thanks Matt.
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Dec 17, 2008 - 05:20pm PT
What a great story and post. Thanks.

Stylish hat, too.
Tork

climber
Yosemite
Dec 17, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
Nice!

Glad to hear that guy is human afterall
Jordan Ramey

Big Wall climber
South Pasadena, CA
Dec 17, 2008 - 06:08pm PT
That story was hilarious!
dogtown

climber
Cheyenne,Wyoming
Dec 17, 2008 - 07:18pm PT
Great story!

That kid is well on his way to being the best free climber ever.

No doubt!

Bruce
AbeFrohman

Trad climber
new york, NY
Dec 17, 2008 - 09:32pm PT
On his way?
HighDesertDJ

Trad climber
Arid-zona
Dec 17, 2008 - 09:49pm PT
Lambone that's really funny.
GhoulweJ

Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
Dec 17, 2008 - 10:15pm PT
...dyno your haul bag then mantlr your ledge...
just classic
thanks for story

Go Alex!
Dr. Rock

Ice climber
http://tinyurl.com/4oa5br
Dec 17, 2008 - 10:33pm PT
F*#k You, Alex!
Dumb ass.



People Like scaring the sh#t out of themselves?
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
Dec 17, 2008 - 11:03pm PT
Awesome story...well, is Alex a coffee drinker?
elcap-pics

climber
Crestline CA
Dec 18, 2008 - 01:04am PT
totally funny Lambone!!! The guy is really just like that .... aww shucks kind of guy. Very mellow....
thanks for posting!
Tom
Ed Hartouni

Trad climber
Livermore, CA
Dec 18, 2008 - 02:15am PT
he's the real deal alright, and a very cool dude with an infectiously likable manner.

Rock on Alex!

tenesmus

Trad climber
slc
Dec 18, 2008 - 08:01am PT
he is a nice guy.
happiegrrrl

Trad climber
New York, NY
Dec 18, 2008 - 08:54am PT
listening to his bit with Timmy at the Facelift, it is so easy to imagine him having that conversation Lambone detailed. He seems to be having the time of his life out there. Seems like a very nice person, too.
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 18, 2008 - 10:38am PT
Hilarious story, Matt! Can you post up a few more pix? Alex's a hella nice guy. Met him coming down the raps after Zodiac.
bldr

Trad climber
roseville
Dec 18, 2008 - 11:22am PT
Lambone,

Funny story, definitely alex in a nutshell.

J
Lambone

Ice climber
Ashland, Or
Dec 18, 2008 - 12:54pm PT
"well, is Alex a coffee drinker?"

um, maybe. well i definately recall him with a cup of joe in the lodge. That morning he was all fired up and didn't want to stop moving. I offered them a chance to sit and chill on my ledge but they were like, "dude, if we stop now we'll never start moving again!"

"Can you post up a few more pix?"

Well, of course!
Said bivi spot, waiting for the pass:

Alex getting into the stellar corner of p9 in the Grey Circle:









"These holds SUCK!"

And there they go up the Nipple, "What the hell is this wire bullshit up here? (fixed BallNut)Never seen one of these! Man...F*#k Zodiac!"

Right before a big fall, of course I missed it...





klk

Trad climber
cali
Dec 18, 2008 - 01:27pm PT
Yeah, but what's he done on grit?




Oh, yeah . . ..
Rhodo-Router

Gym climber
Otto, NC
Dec 18, 2008 - 10:26pm PT
Bump for hot dude-on-stone action...nice shots there Matt!
Sir loin of leisure...

Trad climber
X
Dec 18, 2008 - 10:29pm PT
very nice
'Pass the Pitons' Pete

Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
Dec 18, 2008 - 10:42pm PT
Nice photos, Matt. However there is just something wrong about two men sharing a double ledge.

I was, um, kinda hoping for some pictures of Katie...
Bob Palais

Trad climber
UT
Dec 19, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
"Prolly not the shinning moment Alex wants posted all over the net..."

Geez, seems like a totally brilliant and real moment to me. I remember watching the Sharp End video of him doing this crazy sandstone arete that even the Dresden crew were warning people off of. I was probably more scared just watching it than he seemed to be doing it.
COT

climber
Door Number 3
May 7, 2010 - 10:05pm PT
I just read a cool interview with Honnold
http://www.planetmountain.com/english/News/shownews1.lasso?keyid=36563

Best line talking about his gritstone trip

Your list of ascents dodging the raindrops is impressive to say the least. What would you consider your most important achievement there and why?

Honnold: I think "important achievement" might be overstating the impact of a climbing trip. Curing AIDS is an "important achievement". We just climbed a lot and watched movies in the rain.
chez

Social climber
chicago ill
May 7, 2010 - 10:14pm PT
That guys alright!
enjoimx

Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
May 7, 2010 - 11:22pm PT
Thanks for the photos and story. Awesome
the kid

Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
May 8, 2010 - 08:20am PT
nice work AL
A0 is not free...

if so then cosie and i freed the muir!!!!

alex is getting it done...

looks he will be ready to tackle the "original" burning down the house..

ks
mcreel

climber
Barcelona
May 8, 2010 - 10:48am PT
Thanks for the bump, I missed this one the first time around.
Chief

climber
May 8, 2010 - 11:57am PT
Honnold: I think "important achievement" might be overstating the impact of a climbing trip. Curing AIDS is an "important achievement". We just climbed a lot and watched movies in the rain.

That's one of the most inspiring things I've ever heard from a climber.
Thank you Alex!
Burt

Big Wall climber
Las Vegas, Nv
May 9, 2010 - 12:48am PT
I heard a rumor that he soloed the Original route on Rainbow here in Vegas not that long ago... any truth to this rumor?
rodermck

Social climber
san jose ca.
May 9, 2010 - 02:01am PT
there is many worth while moments on this climb with pictures to carry me in to there funny momments and serious that brought me into alex world very injoyable
redrocker

climber
Las Vegas, Nevada
May 9, 2010 - 03:56pm PT
I heard a rumor that he soloed the Original route on Rainbow here in Vegas not that long ago...any truth to this rumor?

Apparently this is true Burt. Also heard that on the same visit to Red Rock he soloed Prince of Darkness and then down soloed Dream of Wild Turkeys.

Can anyone confirm?
redrocker

climber
Las Vegas, Nevada
May 9, 2010 - 04:09pm PT
Confirmed. All true. Thanks freerider.
James

climber
My twin brother's laundry room
May 9, 2010 - 06:16pm PT
Alex Honnold was also seen in the arms of a transvestite on the strip. He reportedly had her/him belay him on his project at the Gallery in addition to receiving nocturnal attention.
mariaji

Social climber
Tucson, AZ
May 10, 2010 - 12:32am PT
I try to channel Honnold whenever possible.
redrocker

climber
Las Vegas, Nevada
May 10, 2010 - 02:28am PT
Certainly newsworthy James, but until he records it on 8a.nu that one will have to remain in the rumor category.
bmacd

climber
Relic Hominid
May 10, 2010 - 02:08pm PT
Sick action !
The Alpine

Big Wall climber
May 11, 2010 - 12:10pm PT
The dude is soloing all of my projects.

How is this not all over the media? Kinda cool that its not though...
Roxy

Trad climber
CA Central Coast
May 11, 2010 - 12:14pm PT
Great shots Lambone...

Alex is the man. Totally inspiring.

Have Honnold and Caldwell ever roped up?
Brian

climber
California
May 11, 2010 - 12:25pm PT
The dude is soloing all of my projects.

Ha! I know exactly what you mean! He soloed Moonlight a week or two before I went to try and freeclimb it (I failed). My partner and I kept joking during the climb that we were struggling on Alex's newest "boulder problem."

Brian
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