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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Original Post - Dec 4, 2008 - 10:00am PT
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I have been climbing on St Helena at the Far Side and the Quarry, but what about the Palisades? There's a ton of rock south of the highway there near Table Rock and I thought I had read somewhere that someone had put up routes. I can't seem to find any info about the area...anyone know anything?
This is the area I speak of: http://www.summitpost.org/mountain/rock/380683/palisades-napa-valley-.html
If it's a secret I understand, you can also email me at onetreepc at msn.com if you don't want to post such info online...
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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Email Roughster, he'll fill you in. There's routes and a guide and all that.
The place is no secret, but I gotta warn you... Even the choss thinks that choss is chossy.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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the climbs on the bubble and the bear cliffs on mt st helena are way better than anything at table rock or the palisades - i would suggest climbing on those before hiking all the way out there - it may look good from far but it is far from good - can you say CHOSS.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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As mentioned above, the rock is choss, there is no denying that, but it does clean up, and presents some of the longest sport routes in the bay area. To say that uniformly the Bubble or Far Side (lol) are better in any capacity is a statement of ignorance as to what is out there.
Is it the second coming? Hell no. Is it an area with its own cool vibe, chossy funky rock that only a mother could love? Probably. Is it better than most of the Bay sport climbing venues? Yes. Can you get more than 25 feet off the ground? Yes, it is the only area with true multipitch sport climbing in the Bay.
It has a steep 2 mile approach with significant uphill sections both hiking in and out that will weed out the riff raff and always keep the crowds down. The few that make it out will then have to deal with chossy rock. All in all, my guess is even if I put the topo online it would never be crowded since TR'ing is pretty much non-existent, except for rapping in off the rim for the top pitches of a few of the mulitpitch routes.
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squishy
Mountain climber
sacramento
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2008 - 01:51pm PT
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Hey Roughster could you email me the beta if I promise to keep it off the net? I only climb 5.9 but I'm interested in exploring the area more, I love the history of the place and want to explore some of the more secluded and difficult to reach places...Maybe you should publish the info if what you say is true, long difficult approaches to choss like this turn many people away and act as natural deterrents. It's not necessarily a secret anymore either, hell I found out about it...The beta may help legitimize the place and also aid in the safety of future climbers...
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berghold
Trad climber
Calistoga
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Agree DMT. Roughster has contributed greatly to this area with his efforts. That said, the best offering in the vast reaches of the Palisades for rockclimbing IS at Table, IMO. All the other steep cliffs out there to the south are nice to look at, hike around, traverse, etc. but rockclimbing ? not so much. A great 10+ mile endurance hike with incredible views, exposure, etc. goes across the upper ridge of the Palisades from Oat Hill Mine Trail to Mt. St. Helena parking lot. This adventure takes a line above the regular palisades trail, across the top of the cliffs (no trail), some third class, some bushwhacking, and plenty of route finding challenges. Have fun!
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Rock climbing at the Napa Palisades is akin to drinking non alcoholic beer at Oktoberfest
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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I appreciate the comments guys. I can’t take all credit though, particularly Auburn and DTSA. Those areas were joint efforts primarily with Dave (CaughtInside) for Auburn and Dave and Doniel for DTSA.
The DTSA topo I have been giving out on occasion with nicely solicited emails or attendance at local Adopt-a-crag events or CRAGS meeting (Friday at 7PM and Pipeworks in Sacramento). I just am hoping to keep the peace and let it slowly seep into the NorCal climbing consciousness. It will never be world class, but I do honestly feel that with Auburn still off limits, its one of the best areas around. Just my opinion, as you know, they often vary :D
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Salamanizer
Trad climber
Vacaville Ca,
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I'd have to agree with Rough. The place is a total chossball, but what in the Bay Area isn't that's taller than 30ft? The place is unique for sure. The closest thing to it would be Pinnacles which has about the same amount of choss. It's a great place to find a good adventure (which isn't exactly easy at a sport venue) and on vertical 200+ft walls... That's right, 200 (plus) ft.
Traffic is what this place needs, so do your part, hike your lazy ass out there and help clean the loose crap off the routes. When it breaks off, just toss it down and find another hold, "It's no drama".
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Some pics and words for what awaits you:
There are some big walls out here. Look closer you will save Dave on P3 of Aloha Patrol 5.11b. Would be 5 star at any crag in the USA.
From the side. Notice the steepness. This climb goes, slab, overhang, slab (P1). Slab (p2). Killer overhang (p3). Vert to slightly overhang (p4). (Of course sport pitches aka you can rap all pitches with one rope from anchor to anchor).
You want more?
Bolting Daily Dose 5.12d on lead. I mean come one, how bad can the rock be if I bolted it on lead?
Higher up on the route. The bulge in the bottom right is the overhang in the picture above. Not too bad of a "view" eh?
Communal second pitch (5.10b) leading to several harder 3rd pitches. Pretty sweet looking eh? It gets better...
Starting Pitch 3 of the "Moderator" 5.11a. Heheh, if you know me, you know where the name comes from. The next weekend I bolted a climb that I briefly entertained thought of calling "RC.Commie" hehe. I settled on "Internet Super Hero" instead :)
Want to see what it looks like near the top?
Yeah it really is that bitchin.
50 routes total from 5.7 to 5.13a so far. Potential for TONS of more routes. You just need a strong constitution for the hike, a strong mind to not be wigged by the rock, and a habit for seeking adventure as Salamanizer says.
Once your done with some of the well bolted stuff, try his Lux Lucis of Vallum 5.10d. Its the obvious dihedral. He pulled some of the old aid bolts out by hand :)
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Eric Beck
Sport climber
Bishop, California
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I remember Roper mentioning putting up routes here, hideous, rotten aid climbs. He referred to the area as St Helena Palisades.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Eric,
There are plenty of chossy aid climbs out there. Most them easily went free. I personally pulled every other bolt on one of them and then freed it. We replaced some crazy stuff out there with solid 1/2''ers.
Here's some Chad pulled out:
Might as well let the cat's head peak out...
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LuckyPink
climber
the last bivy
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actually the bubble and far side are not the best areas over on that side of the road. Bear Wall is IT. Plus there are some other rocks higher up check the guidebook..you will find some new really killer routes put up by Berghold.
Be sure you've had all the children you want , carry life and disability to cover the mortgage if you climb over at Table.
PS wear a helmet.. that's you the belayer wear a helmet..bring some glue. you may have to replace some things.
I was there today, btw.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Nice M!
One thing to note though, most routes at Table have literally had a handful of ascents. As with choss piles bolted across this great land, choss takes more than few ascents to clean up. If we moved Table Rock to SoCal, it would be polished to a hi-pro-glow in a season.
It is part of the lessons learned of seasoned climbers as opposed to those who think the outside is just a slightly more wild iteration of the gym. IT isn't.
Sure I could have bolted on the "left" side of the (29), but why? There are already others doing that. Why not try something new? Make a new contribution, give people somewhere else to go.
Table is what it is. It has been expressly stated up front, it is not for everyone. To state (not just imply) it is more unsafe then most others areas is simply not true. Different? Yes. Unsafe, nah.
Have you been up Mark's Moderate on the Bear? You want to compare that to routes on Table? I'll take Table Rock over that route 10 out of 10 :D
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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I liked the concept of letting it "slowly seep into the NorCal climbing consciousness." So much for that.
Eric Beck: So Roper put routes up there? Interesting. Could you find out what he climbed, and when? I've been trying to find information about those routes. The history seems a bit lost, aside from what's left of the old fixed gear.
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Jerry,
I think the seepage dried up about a year ago. Considering ST is a pretty select group in the whole scope of things, I still think of this as releasing the info to those who would be most likely to actually go out there and understand the place.
I have always wanted to get the info out there, it was more of a matter of time as opposed to an "if" for me. Whats the point of letting the steel sit in the wall if no one is using it?
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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ok, i got my copy downloaded. you can pull it now. ;)
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Roughster
Sport climber
Vacaville, CA
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Munge,
Send me an email, I'll send you the whole thing :)
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Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
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No worries Aron. Like you said, it is what it is. I need to head back out there and climb more of your lines.
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