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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Ding ding ding!
Obscure Rock.
Pretty sharp for an old fakka!
Base of that crag a bit krispy now post-fire.
Yeah, did my first tr's at Campbell cliffs...
Photos in the 85 hs yearbook!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:18pm PT
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Gates Pass boulders, yeah! Any pictures of the glue-on "gym" in the culverts underneath Father Kino??
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Pennsylenvy
Gym climber
A dingy corner in your refrigerator
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Feb 10, 2012 - 12:35pm PT
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John on Mission to Mars 12d ! Great send!
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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Feb 13, 2012 - 10:42am PT
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One of the most amazing things about climbing in Arizona is the solitude. I was at a tremendous sport climbing area on Saturday with not a soul in sight. Supposedly this is normal for this area. I also get to climb world-class cracks at The Waterfall while rarely seeing other parties. Over a hundred classic cracks all to ourselves.
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ground_up
Trad climber
mt. hood /baja
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Feb 16, 2012 - 11:27am PT
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bump...can't wait to get back to the Stronghold , one of my
favorite places ....too good a thread to die...and so tired
of seein' that fe#&kin political thread
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:10pm PT
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What is the situation out at the Cwm these days? Anyone climbed there recently?
The best 5.8 handcrack in a corner in AZ is out there. It's A Beautiful Day!
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The Doctor
Social climber
Da Bronx
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Feb 17, 2012 - 11:20pm PT
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Hey Steve, after 25 years of nobody going there one of our local developers added maybe 10 new quality routes to the south side last year. I believe they are on mtn proj under Volunteer Canyon. No new action on the sunny side but It's a Beautiful Day and Trafalmador stand the test of time for sure, especially at their respective grades, 5.8 and 9+.
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Feb 24, 2012 - 04:15pm PT
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Manny
Social climber
tempe
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Mar 10, 2012 - 11:52am PT
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Sorry I missed the sushifest; thailand was a nice alternative. When I returned I found a lot of old photos. This is me leading the big roof on Granite Mtn with Jay Anderson belaying; unfortunately, due to four 90 degree turns, I fell all over the final moves.
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Mar 23, 2012 - 01:41am PT
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Damn, that got my hands sweating Manny.
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Jaybro
Social climber
Wolf City, Wyoming
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Mar 23, 2012 - 01:51am PT
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That was a good day. Except for the rope drag.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Mar 23, 2012 - 08:45am PT
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Here's how they roll all new-style... climb out of the corner under the roof, do the traverse out to the crux, stick a couple pieces in, then lower down to a single bolt below (actually a protection bolt on the section connecting Once Upon A Time to Coatimundi). Then your buddy comes over, lowers off, and you launch from that belay to turn the roof.
Rope drag schmope drag.
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rick d
climber
ol pueblo, az
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Mar 23, 2012 - 08:56am PT
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...and to think Reveley and Greene would have fired that in March 1976 if they had brought more than t-shirts. Their last day they made it to the base of the roof and got frozen off after that week freeing "Sly's idea", "witblitz", "adam's rib" and a few others....
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pk_davidson
Trad climber
Albuquerque, NM
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Damn Greg...
That looks like one bolt (how old) and one piece and a jam between the leader and the deck a few hundred below ? brrrrrrr....
But I always did think that would be a really cool way to turn the roof. Stemp Kingpin and on up to the roof. But from what I've been told, a lot of the challenge of turning the roof is the traverse over and dealing with the rope drag.
For shore, that was a proud week by Reevely and Greene back in '76
Didn't they also free the Dreamweaver crux, using Crack'N Ups ?
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Yeah, I think it's just one bolt.
If I had to guess, I'd say they considered the one or two cams in the roof above to be part of the anchor. Maybe not too bad, if they're solid and the belayer is lashed to them as well.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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The Coatimundi Whiteout Roof is definitely the one that got away for me in all of Arizona.
I still kick myself for not taking a look out there at 5.11a!
Everything at GM isn't as hard as it looks as the face holds just keep showing up...usually!
Anyone rebolted Cinnamon Girl?
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deschamps
Trad climber
Out and about
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That roof is hard! I have climbed many a modern 12a trad climb that felt easier then that thing. The traverse getting there is a kick in the pants too. I couldn't understand why my leader was breathing so hard on the traverse. Then I got on it.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Paul and I did the second ascent of Sly's Idea thinking that it was an FA.
We were going to name it After Bathing at Baxter's keying off the Jefferson Airplane song.
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bob
climber
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Cinnamon Girl has been replaced, but does it matter? Its easy, but man one would crush hard on that pitch in certain places.
Good stuff.
Bob J.
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MisterE
Social climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 6, 2012 - 10:19pm PT
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Thanks for the great stories and pics, everyone!
v.2 coming soon:
photo: J.Burcham.
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Let us know!