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MisterE
Social climber
Cinderella Story, Outa Nowhere
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2011 - 01:16am PT
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A nice shot from a couple weeks ago:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Marty is one of the grand old men of Tucson climbing and a good climber! He taught me some aid technique and was very helpful giving advice way back when I really needed it.
Did you know him back when he put up Duck Soup on the Sunshine Wall at Suicide? No partner listed in my older guides. Do you remember anything about that climb?
I have done it and recall the clipping stances being a bit dicey but it was put in on rappel, at least in part, if I recall correctly.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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That is hilarious and right in character!
Marty had that mojo working when I was hanging out with him also. I need to find him next time in Tucson.
No recollections from Duck Soup?
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Just interrupting to say that Warbler, you
were post 777, which means you're the
"Neighbor of the Beast".
And...
¡Viva Tucson!
Continue gentlemen.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Did he ever pop his front tooth out for you just for fun?
He hit himself with a wrench right in the front teeth and had a bridge that he would sometimes let drop out of position for effect with a grin.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 10, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
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Bump for the Dez...
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 10, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
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How bout some Mt Lemmon recollections there, Steve...
The mountain is open again...been getting some good monsoons.
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Jul 22, 2011 - 11:04am PT
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C'mon bump
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 21, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
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Heart Cave
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Sep 28, 2011 - 09:33am PT
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Damn, I need my Granite Mtn fix.
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BBA
climber
OF
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Mt. Senyala or Señala in Arizona
Here’s an Arizona story, the first ascent of Mt. Señala on April 11, 1960. The project was the brainchild of Don Myers, a PhD candidate in Chemistry at UCLA. Don had seen Mt. Señala from afar on an earlier trip to Havasu Falls. The peak sits on a bench of the Kaibab plateau out of Havasu Canyon. Three earlier attempts had been made by Bruin (UCLA) Mountaineers, but none had reached the peak itself. The land is cut by canyons, steep and difficult to navigate. Leaving nothing to chance, Don had aerial photographs of the area and we planned our route using a desk top stereoscope. We found out that it was nothing like being on the ground. At the final hour four of us from UCLA were in the project, Don, Mike Sherrick of the first ascent of Half Dome, Jim Wilkerson and me.
We drove out to Arizona and parked on the rim. It’s downhill into the Havasu village near the falls, and in those days only accessible by foot and hoof, so we backpacked down. It was known that a store existed in the village, so I didn’t over pack on food. That was a bad idea as things were expensive and of low quality. I got a can of tuna and it had a lot of bones in it. That never happened to me before or since. Life on the res.
To reach Mt. Señala we had to get out of the canyon. Don knew the way from previous attempts, up a steep area of broken cliffs. The crux was a section made by the Indians with holds chipped out of the sandstone. We went out of the canyon thinking it would be a one day trip to get to the peak and back, so we only carried climbing gear, water and a little food.
The rest is more or less on the following pages of the Bruin Mountaineers sheets.
One item needs explanation, Mike Sherrick’s injured finger. Being intelligent young men at a good university, of course we acted like yahoos when we found no trace of anyone having been on the summit before us. The yahoo instinct is, of course, to build a cairn. Mike still had his hand on the rock he was placing when Jim plopped one on top. Mike’s finger looked pretty bad, but in those days all you could do was hike it out and drive to the University for your Free Medical Care. Apparently we were so concerned about Mike that we stayed a day and went swimming.
Bill Amborn
The goal
On the final slopes to the top
Yahoos. L-R Wilkerson, Myers, Amborn. Sherrick is the photographer.
The original writeup
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Outstanding historical TR Bill!
I can't wait to see if anyone else has ventured up this obscure temple...by any route.
What was up with the prior UCLA attempts?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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This is about the time of the year when one really starts to appreciate Arizona.
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steelmnkey
climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
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Always sort of cracked me up that we would pack up all our stuff and go running over to Joshua Tree for Thanksgiving, only to freeze our asses off and climb very little (at least before this global warming thing got going good). The warmest climbing in the country was back home in AZ. Bwa-ha-ha-ha-ha.
Shot from yesterday...
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BBA
climber
OF
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Steve - The Bruin Mountaineers were more a peak bagging group until Bob Kamps arrived on scene joined by Dave Harvey, an older friend of mine from East Bakersfield High. Then I came along and was gung ho for the sport, too. Dave faded, but we did a lot of things together.
The other attempts at Senyala may have faltered in crossing the terrain to get to the peak, or it was just more enjoyable to sit in the warm waters of the Havasu Creek than wander in a snake and cactus infested landscape.
Wilkerson had an encounter with what was called "jumping cactus". It had such thin spines with little hooks on the end that you didn't think you would get stuck, then you feel it and involuntarily pull your hand away and it seems like the cactus jumps at you. Of course Jim was the one who asked why it was called jumping cactus after we warned him, and with a recoil and exclamation said "It jumped!" Now you know why...
I sometimes wonder what happened to some of the characters I encountered. On the web I see a James A. Wilkerson became a mountaineering health expert after being an Emergency Room doctor at UCLA. He wrote a lot of books. Was that the same Jim who squashed Sherrick's finger?
The next photo is of the gods of the indians (at least that's why they said we oughtn't climb them).
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M. Volland
Trad climber
Grand Canyon
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Nov 15, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
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drljefe
climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
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Nov 22, 2011 - 02:18am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 22, 2011 - 09:46am PT
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Location, location, location...
Where you boys (and girls) shootin' these?
Bill- Did you and Bob get out very often BITD?
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