Arizona Climbing Appreciation thread

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The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jul 3, 2011 - 07:51pm PT
I think I did Duck Soup way back when I was climbing as often as I possibly could, about 18 years old and I was just entering the 5.10 grade. As with 5.11 later, I had a mental block against moving out of the 5.9 category, as it was almost the hardest grade when I started climbing. This led me to be "overqualified" for easy 5.10s when I started trying them.

I might be confusing DS with 10 karat or 14 or whatever the other route over there on the right of Serpentine, but I remember thinking it wasn't as hard as I was expecting after hearing a lot of stories as to its difficulty. I did the SA of New Generation with Dave Antel around that time, and the 10th ascent of Valhalla before that, so I was comfortable on the Suicide edges.

Marty truly does stand out in my early years, along with Tim Harrison, as a kind and skilled climbing mentor.

drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jul 3, 2011 - 08:01pm PT
Just interrupting to say that Warbler, you
were post 777, which means you're the
"Neighbor of the Beast".

And...
¡Viva Tucson!

Continue gentlemen.
The Warbler

climber
the edge of America
Jul 3, 2011 - 08:07pm PT
I noticed that Jefe!

Lucky sevens, and three's a is how I'll look at it.

The Devil does reside under Tahquitz Rock in Indian legend though...

Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 3, 2011 - 08:21pm PT
Did he ever pop his front tooth out for you just for fun?

He hit himself with a wrench right in the front teeth and had a bridge that he would sometimes let drop out of position for effect with a grin.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Jul 10, 2011 - 01:05pm PT
Bump for the Dez...
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jul 10, 2011 - 01:14pm PT
How bout some Mt Lemmon recollections there, Steve...

The mountain is open again...been getting some good monsoons.
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Jul 22, 2011 - 11:04am PT
C'mon bump
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Sep 21, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
Credit: drljefe
Heart Cave
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Sep 28, 2011 - 09:33am PT
Josh. Crack junkie.
Josh. Crack junkie.
Credit: drljefe

Damn, I need my Granite Mtn fix.
BBA

climber
OF
Nov 7, 2011 - 04:57pm PT
Mt. Senyala or Señala in Arizona

Here’s an Arizona story, the first ascent of Mt. Señala on April 11, 1960. The project was the brainchild of Don Myers, a PhD candidate in Chemistry at UCLA. Don had seen Mt. Señala from afar on an earlier trip to Havasu Falls. The peak sits on a bench of the Kaibab plateau out of Havasu Canyon. Three earlier attempts had been made by Bruin (UCLA) Mountaineers, but none had reached the peak itself. The land is cut by canyons, steep and difficult to navigate. Leaving nothing to chance, Don had aerial photographs of the area and we planned our route using a desk top stereoscope. We found out that it was nothing like being on the ground. At the final hour four of us from UCLA were in the project, Don, Mike Sherrick of the first ascent of Half Dome, Jim Wilkerson and me.

We drove out to Arizona and parked on the rim. It’s downhill into the Havasu village near the falls, and in those days only accessible by foot and hoof, so we backpacked down. It was known that a store existed in the village, so I didn’t over pack on food. That was a bad idea as things were expensive and of low quality. I got a can of tuna and it had a lot of bones in it. That never happened to me before or since. Life on the res.

To reach Mt. Señala we had to get out of the canyon. Don knew the way from previous attempts, up a steep area of broken cliffs. The crux was a section made by the Indians with holds chipped out of the sandstone. We went out of the canyon thinking it would be a one day trip to get to the peak and back, so we only carried climbing gear, water and a little food.

The rest is more or less on the following pages of the Bruin Mountaineers sheets.

One item needs explanation, Mike Sherrick’s injured finger. Being intelligent young men at a good university, of course we acted like yahoos when we found no trace of anyone having been on the summit before us. The yahoo instinct is, of course, to build a cairn. Mike still had his hand on the rock he was placing when Jim plopped one on top. Mike’s finger looked pretty bad, but in those days all you could do was hike it out and drive to the University for your Free Medical Care. Apparently we were so concerned about Mike that we stayed a day and went swimming.

Bill Amborn

The goal

The peak
The peak
Credit: BBA

On the final slopes to the top

Credit: BBA

Yahoos. L-R Wilkerson, Myers, Amborn. Sherrick is the photographer.

Credit: BBA

The original writeup

Credit: BBA

Credit: BBA



Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 7, 2011 - 08:44pm PT
Outstanding historical TR Bill!

I can't wait to see if anyone else has ventured up this obscure temple...by any route.

What was up with the prior UCLA attempts?
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 7, 2011 - 09:17pm PT
Very cool that you bagged the first BBA! Thanks for sharing!
I'm pretty sure the Tomasi bros have done it. They've been knocking off the obscure peaks and temples in the Canyon for many moons now.

http://www.amazon.com/GCSSII-bw-Royal-Pernell-Tomasi/dp/0971088098
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Nov 7, 2011 - 09:38pm PT
This is about the time of the year when one really starts to appreciate Arizona.
steelmnkey

climber
Vision man...ya gotta have vision...
Nov 7, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
Always sort of cracked me up that we would pack up all our stuff and go running over to Joshua Tree for Thanksgiving, only to freeze our asses off and climb very little (at least before this global warming thing got going good). The warmest climbing in the country was back home in AZ. Bwa-ha-ha-ha-ha.

Shot from yesterday...
BBA

climber
OF
Nov 7, 2011 - 11:00pm PT
Steve - The Bruin Mountaineers were more a peak bagging group until Bob Kamps arrived on scene joined by Dave Harvey, an older friend of mine from East Bakersfield High. Then I came along and was gung ho for the sport, too. Dave faded, but we did a lot of things together.

The other attempts at Senyala may have faltered in crossing the terrain to get to the peak, or it was just more enjoyable to sit in the warm waters of the Havasu Creek than wander in a snake and cactus infested landscape.

Wilkerson had an encounter with what was called "jumping cactus". It had such thin spines with little hooks on the end that you didn't think you would get stuck, then you feel it and involuntarily pull your hand away and it seems like the cactus jumps at you. Of course Jim was the one who asked why it was called jumping cactus after we warned him, and with a recoil and exclamation said "It jumped!" Now you know why...

I sometimes wonder what happened to some of the characters I encountered. On the web I see a James A. Wilkerson became a mountaineering health expert after being an Emergency Room doctor at UCLA. He wrote a lot of books. Was that the same Jim who squashed Sherrick's finger?

The next photo is of the gods of the indians (at least that's why they said we oughtn't climb them).
Credit: BBA
M. Volland

Trad climber
Grand Canyon
Nov 15, 2011 - 10:26pm PT
Bright Angel Walls - South Rim Grand Canyon
Bright Angel Walls - South Rim Grand Canyon
Credit: Kiril Kirkov
drljefe

climber
El Presidio San Augustin del Tucson
Nov 22, 2011 - 02:18am PT
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Nov 22, 2011 - 09:46am PT
Location, location, location...

Where you boys (and girls) shootin' these?

Bill- Did you and Bob get out very often BITD?
Dickbob

climber
Westminster Colorado
Dec 4, 2011 - 12:37pm PT
Waugh. Acid Test at the Forks
Waugh. Acid Test at the Forks
Credit: Dickbob
Credit: Dickbob
Credit: Dickbob
Reeotch

Trad climber
Kayenta, AZ
Dec 4, 2011 - 03:54pm PT
Bump
Location, location, location...

Where you boys (and girls) shootin' these?

Wouldn't you like to know . . .
On the rez.
On the rez.
Credit: Reeotch
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