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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 29, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
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The Doctor and i went down to sedona today to climb a fairly recent John Burcham route, put up 2 years ago, called "Wild, Wild West". It is a 6-pitch 5.11- with about a 35-minute approach.
Also, within the last couple of years, a route 100 feet to the right of it called "Miami" fell down. The flake that fell of was probably 150 feet high by 70 feet wide, and a few feet thick. The base is strewn with the rubble and the rock scar is massive.
We recently got a picture from Burcham showing the wild "shi't your pants" variation finish for the 6th pitch that leaves 300 feet of air under your heels.
Looking up at the approach (Left side of the square formation):
Getting closer:
Here's the area of the wall where the flake used to be (the white part is newly exposed rock):
looking up the route from the base:
David lead the first pitch, a rounded funky 5.10 (90 feet), and I got the nice 5.9 dihedral above (85 feet):
The next pitch was a 200 foot traverse straight across on a ledge on the North side of the formation, following:
Then there is a little 5.6 move to a rib and back the way you just came:
David leading out on the 5.7 pitch 5 traverse, with the steepness coming up:
I got the last pitch, and it is crazy exposed. The traverse brings you back to that overhanging arete from the picture from the base. Three bolts gets you past the crux ( I didn't get it clean), then traverse to the very edge of the arete and a double roof. The exposed bit involves clipping four bolts as you traverse with the hands under one roof and your feet on the edge of another below. It is an amazing headgame making the move around to the roof, then through.
David followed and we got the summit shots:
and a few nice view shots:
Midgeley Bridge with the Supercrack Towers at the top right:
Three rappels with a 60 meter rope and we were done! Picture of the sweet dihedral on the way down:
All in all a great day out.
Going to try to get at it again tomorrow.
Erik
and just in case you missed the TR from last weekend:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=729885
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Dwain
Trad climber
Apple Valley, California
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Nov 29, 2008 - 11:08pm PT
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Some people get all the fun, MisterE.
I had to settle for climbing at Picnic Rock today.
Oh well, it's still CLIMBING.
Great TR!
Dwain
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nature
climber
Somewhere else....
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Nov 29, 2008 - 11:28pm PT
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I miss you guys. Glad I'm back in AZ though...
come on down south for xmas/NY!
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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Nov 29, 2008 - 11:42pm PT
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damn that looks FUN...
nice to see you two getting out ;-) bitches...
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 29, 2008 - 11:57pm PT
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Sedona is so beautiful but that rock scares the crap out of me. I'd probably feel safer on the bolt protected crux even if I had to do it bilingual
Yur rad.
Peace
Karl
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2008 - 12:02am PT
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I was fully gripped today on lead, I know what you mean.
The first pitch was loose 5.10, SO glad I didn't lead it!
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ontheedgeandscaredtodeath
Trad climber
San Francisco, Ca
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Nov 30, 2008 - 01:06am PT
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So often the first pitch in Sedona is the most sketch- that first layer is so soft and round. Nice TR!
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Lydia
Trad climber
Tempe, AZ
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Nov 30, 2008 - 10:36am PT
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Awesome TR and awesome looking route!!!! Is "Wild, Wild West" near the Church Spires?
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Riotch
Trad climber
Kayenta, Arizona
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Nov 30, 2008 - 11:33am PT
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Nice E!
Its Sedona season now . . .
Hoping to get down there during Winter Break.
Props to Burcham, too! That guy puts up good routes in Sedona, some real classics. Haven't done a Burcham route I didn't enjoy.
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MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2008 - 12:10pm PT
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Lydia: It's by Moose's Butte, parking is 2.2 miles out Schnebley Hill Road on the left. You can see it from the road.
More beta if you need it.
Erik
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BriGuy
Trad climber
SL,UT
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Nov 30, 2008 - 01:12pm PT
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Nice, that looks awesome. That chunk of rock that fell looks huge!
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Lydia
Trad climber
Tempe, AZ
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Nov 30, 2008 - 01:43pm PT
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Erik: Thanks! I'll take any beta for the route you can offer...
I'm headed to Sedona this weekend and this route looks too good to pass up! :)
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Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
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Nov 30, 2008 - 02:22pm PT
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This bad azz, especially since I can recognize the two characters in the pics.
Nice send, and thank you for the TR.. Keep them coming!!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 30, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
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looks sweet, a whole 'nother universe of climbing...
thanks for the post. You guys are inspirational...
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 30, 2008 - 10:10pm PT
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hey there all... say, that is NICE looking rock... i also really like that line formation, at mid level, before all that neat looking chuck of rock above it all...
whew... to me, it looks like the whole rock could just fall aparat in chucks, the way it is formed...
very beautiful stuff for pictures, etc... as, i dont climb---but i sure like looking at good rock...
:) as always, thanks for the share...
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drljefe
climber
Old Pueblo, AZ
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Feb 25, 2009 - 02:15pm PT
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*BUMP*
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Payton
Sport climber
Birmingham
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Jul 17, 2018 - 01:15am PT
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Hey y'all! I'm looking at doing this climb soon! I have never climbed something so big and I was wondering what size rope I should bring! I'm looking at sport climbing and not having anyone who can climb after me, so I was thinking about 150 meters of rope which is just under 500 feet of rope. Also, what gear did y'all use? Thanks y'all!
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deuce4
climber
Hobart, Australia
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Jul 17, 2018 - 04:22am PT
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I started up the formation as a solo aid route once. Got up about a pitch and a half up that bottom loose stuff, probably A3+or so. I was calling the formation“The Tooth”. Looks like a nice free route. Cool.
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