Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 29, 2008 - 11:02pm PT
The Doctor and i went down to sedona today to climb a fairly recent John Burcham route, put up 2 years ago, called "Wild, Wild West". It is a 6-pitch 5.11- with about a 35-minute approach.
Also, within the last couple of years, a route 100 feet to the right of it called "Miami" fell down. The flake that fell of was probably 150 feet high by 70 feet wide, and a few feet thick. The base is strewn with the rubble and the rock scar is massive.
We recently got a picture from Burcham showing the wild "shi't your pants" variation finish for the 6th pitch that leaves 300 feet of air under your heels.
Looking up at the approach (Left side of the square formation):
Here's the area of the wall where the flake used to be (the white part is newly exposed rock):
looking up the route from the base:
David lead the first pitch, a rounded funky 5.10 (90 feet), and I got the nice 5.9 dihedral above (85 feet):
The next pitch was a 200 foot traverse straight across on a ledge on the North side of the formation, following:
Then there is a little 5.6 move to a rib and back the way you just came:
David leading out on the 5.7 pitch 5 traverse, with the steepness coming up:
I got the last pitch, and it is crazy exposed. The traverse brings you back to that overhanging arete from the picture from the base. Three bolts gets you past the crux ( I didn't get it clean), then traverse to the very edge of the arete and a double roof. The exposed bit involves clipping four bolts as you traverse with the hands under one roof and your feet on the edge of another below. It is an amazing headgame making the move around to the roof, then through.
David followed and we got the summit shots:
and a few nice view shots:
Midgeley Bridge with the Supercrack Towers at the top right:
Three rappels with a 60 meter rope and we were done! Picture of the sweet dihedral on the way down:
All in all a great day out.
Going to try to get at it again tomorrow.
and just in case you missed the TR from last weekend: