TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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I know a place in WV that looks more interesting. Some true high-ball hard stuff (at least compared to these shortish problems).
That said, I have never been to France, but these pics would not convince me to go there versus a 300 mile trip, with Seneca Rocks a couple hours from there and New River Gorge a couple hours in a different direction.
(Or the Gunk 2 hours from my driveway, and the Adirondacks 4-5 hours away, etc.)
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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"I know a place in WV that looks more interesting. Some true high-ball hard stuff (at least compared to these shortish problems).
That said, I have never been to France, but these pics would not convince me to go there . . . ."
True. 'Bleau could never compare with Seneca. You should stay home.
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TradIsGood
Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
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klk, read more carefully. I did not compare it to Seneca Rocks.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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International boulder bump!
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noshoesnoshirt
climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
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A beautiful area, and humbling. I spent a month in Paris learning how to drill big holes in the seabed, only made to Font twice, got rained out on one of the trips.
Incredible scenery, friendly locals, and fun (if somewhat sandy) boulders.
Sort of reminded me of our homegrown shortstone in the southeast.
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Fountainbleau, 1976
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
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Nice photo, Marty!
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klinefelter
Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
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Fantastic photo. Got more?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
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Nice shots Wes! Those bumpy boulders in the middle of the show are amazing!
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martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
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Check out the paint on the boulder. not sure how hard the thing was. This was a trip where I started in the UK and failed on London Wall, remember yo yo wasnt allowed in the UK in those days, top roped White Wall, and did some other good things in the Peak district. I cannot believe that this Alex guy onsited without a rope, London Wall....geeze.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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tx 4 the pix wes.
i love elephant. all the parisians loathe the place, but f*#k 'em. plus chalet jobert across the street.
elephant noir and chalet jobert!
frickin heaven.
one of the very few places i might trade for the sierras.
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weschrist
Gym climber
left sac
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Nice shots Wes! Those bumpy boulders in the middle of the show are amazing!
Crazy huh? Believe it or not, those are due solely to groundwater-surface water interactions, a process of "Eodiagenesis." Groundwater seeps along canyon edges deposited amorphous silica between the sand grains, cementing it together. The pore spaces are filled and the rock becomes impermeable, causing the groundwater to flow around the previously cemented area. In fact, the porosity of the Fontainebleau sandstone is less than 1%, much lower than most other sandstone. The overlapping lobes potentially represent seasonal (or longer period?) climatic fluctuations.
The Fontainebleau Sand has never been buried greater than about 80m. Under the pomme de terre fields, the same geologic unit is nothing but loose sand. Many other siliciclastic rocks with any integrity (e.g. most of the SE sandstones) are formed at much greater depths and experience higher pressures and temperatures.
I have some samples and I will be making thin sections for a transmitted light microscope. I will post pictures when I get around to it. I'm also scheming on a plan to do a post doc in Fontainbleau...
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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Peter H. said it right its definitely part of the puzzle. Always want to go there but have never been. I've talked to several people that have said the rock is similar to castle rock in the S. C. mountains sure looks that way in the photos.
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weschrist
Gym climber
left sac
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Barry,
Castle is about 1/5 the size of any single classic area at Fontainbleau. There are 6 ultra classic Bleau areas I can name off the top of my head, 10 areas that aren't Bleau classics but far superior to anything in the states, and several areas I haven't seen despite 3 visits.
Also, Castle is cemented by calcite, which dissolves in rainwater and causes the holds to break or deteriorate. That does NOT happen at Fontainebleau because the cement is silica. Bleau stone also has > Castle
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Barry Bates
Boulder climber
Smith River CA
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weschrist
thanks for the clarification
Barry
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Derek
climber
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I once spent an entire spring and summer climbing in France. I did tons of classic alpine routes, hit most of the legendary sport areas, detoured in to Switzerland and Italy for a couple-few weeks, etc. Along the way I met and climbed with great partners. It was among the greatest summers of my life.
My fondest memories of that trip are of wondering alone through the forest of the Bleu with a pair of shoes and a rosin bag. They didn't allow chalk in those days. Not sure if they do now as it's been a while. It is easily in the very top few climbing areas I've ever visited.
I'd go back to France just to climb at Font in a second.
-Derek
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weschrist
Gym climber
left sac
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I'd go back to France just to climb at Font in a second.
The Frogs generally don't recognize the word "Font" as representing their forest and prefer the term "Bleau." At least according to an old Bleausard who explained that to me in a somewhat condescending tone. I think the masses of young US climbers have probably exposed them to "Font"... but they will most likely deny having ever heard the word. FYI
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