Fontainebleau - The Dream Forest of French Bouldering

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Messages 21 - 40 of total 239 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Feb 8, 2009 - 06:53pm PT
I know a place in WV that looks more interesting. Some true high-ball hard stuff (at least compared to these shortish problems).

That said, I have never been to France, but these pics would not convince me to go there versus a 300 mile trip, with Seneca Rocks a couple hours from there and New River Gorge a couple hours in a different direction.

(Or the Gunk 2 hours from my driveway, and the Adirondacks 4-5 hours away, etc.)
klk

Trad climber
cali
Feb 9, 2009 - 08:29am PT
"I know a place in WV that looks more interesting. Some true high-ball hard stuff (at least compared to these shortish problems).

That said, I have never been to France, but these pics would not convince me to go there . . . ."

True. 'Bleau could never compare with Seneca. You should stay home.
TradIsGood

Chalkless climber
the Gunks end of the country
Feb 9, 2009 - 08:38am PT
klk, read more carefully. I did not compare it to Seneca Rocks.
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
International boulder bump!
klinefelter

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 5, 2009 - 12:25pm PT
Here's a little article from the wayback archives.
noshoesnoshirt

climber
dangling off a wind turbine in a town near you
Apr 5, 2009 - 01:08pm PT
A beautiful area, and humbling. I spent a month in Paris learning how to drill big holes in the seabed, only made to Font twice, got rained out on one of the trips.

Incredible scenery, friendly locals, and fun (if somewhat sandy) boulders.

Sort of reminded me of our homegrown shortstone in the southeast.
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Apr 5, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
Fountainbleau, 1976




Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 02:22pm PT
Nice photo, Marty!
klinefelter

Boulder climber
Bishop, CA
Apr 5, 2009 - 03:23pm PT
Fantastic photo. Got more?
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Apr 5, 2009 - 03:51pm PT
a few from my last trip. how do you do the url code again?

http://s17.photobucket.com/albums/b71/weschrist/Fontainebleau%2008/
Steve Grossman

Trad climber
Seattle, WA
Topic Author's Reply - Apr 5, 2009 - 06:30pm PT
Nice shots Wes! Those bumpy boulders in the middle of the show are amazing!
martygarrison

Trad climber
The Great North these days......
Apr 5, 2009 - 06:54pm PT
Check out the paint on the boulder. not sure how hard the thing was. This was a trip where I started in the UK and failed on London Wall, remember yo yo wasnt allowed in the UK in those days, top roped White Wall, and did some other good things in the Peak district. I cannot believe that this Alex guy onsited without a rope, London Wall....geeze.
klk

Trad climber
cali
Apr 5, 2009 - 07:50pm PT
tx 4 the pix wes.


i love elephant. all the parisians loathe the place, but f*#k 'em. plus chalet jobert across the street.

elephant noir and chalet jobert!

frickin heaven.

one of the very few places i might trade for the sierras.
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Apr 6, 2009 - 11:23am PT
Nice shots Wes! Those bumpy boulders in the middle of the show are amazing!

Crazy huh? Believe it or not, those are due solely to groundwater-surface water interactions, a process of "Eodiagenesis." Groundwater seeps along canyon edges deposited amorphous silica between the sand grains, cementing it together. The pore spaces are filled and the rock becomes impermeable, causing the groundwater to flow around the previously cemented area. In fact, the porosity of the Fontainebleau sandstone is less than 1%, much lower than most other sandstone. The overlapping lobes potentially represent seasonal (or longer period?) climatic fluctuations.

The Fontainebleau Sand has never been buried greater than about 80m. Under the pomme de terre fields, the same geologic unit is nothing but loose sand. Many other siliciclastic rocks with any integrity (e.g. most of the SE sandstones) are formed at much greater depths and experience higher pressures and temperatures.

I have some samples and I will be making thin sections for a transmitted light microscope. I will post pictures when I get around to it. I'm also scheming on a plan to do a post doc in Fontainbleau...
Barry Bates

Boulder climber
Smith River CA
Apr 7, 2009 - 01:08pm PT
Peter H. said it right its definitely part of the puzzle. Always want to go there but have never been. I've talked to several people that have said the rock is similar to castle rock in the S. C. mountains sure looks that way in the photos.
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Apr 7, 2009 - 01:17pm PT
Barry,

Castle is about 1/5 the size of any single classic area at Fontainbleau. There are 6 ultra classic Bleau areas I can name off the top of my head, 10 areas that aren't Bleau classics but far superior to anything in the states, and several areas I haven't seen despite 3 visits.

Also, Castle is cemented by calcite, which dissolves in rainwater and causes the holds to break or deteriorate. That does NOT happen at Fontainebleau because the cement is silica. Bleau stone also has > Castle
Barry Bates

Boulder climber
Smith River CA
Apr 7, 2009 - 01:27pm PT
weschrist

thanks for the clarification

Barry
Derek

climber
Apr 7, 2009 - 02:01pm PT
I once spent an entire spring and summer climbing in France. I did tons of classic alpine routes, hit most of the legendary sport areas, detoured in to Switzerland and Italy for a couple-few weeks, etc. Along the way I met and climbed with great partners. It was among the greatest summers of my life.

My fondest memories of that trip are of wondering alone through the forest of the Bleu with a pair of shoes and a rosin bag. They didn't allow chalk in those days. Not sure if they do now as it's been a while. It is easily in the very top few climbing areas I've ever visited.

I'd go back to France just to climb at Font in a second.

-Derek
weschrist

Gym climber
left sac
Apr 7, 2009 - 03:22pm PT
I'd go back to France just to climb at Font in a second.

The Frogs generally don't recognize the word "Font" as representing their forest and prefer the term "Bleau." At least according to an old Bleausard who explained that to me in a somewhat condescending tone. I think the masses of young US climbers have probably exposed them to "Font"... but they will most likely deny having ever heard the word. FYI
Rick A

climber
Boulder, Colorado
Apr 7, 2009 - 06:07pm PT
Marty,
Nice shot.
Mike G. and I were there that same year that you went, 1976.




Also returned the next year with Rob Muir who took this shot.


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