Question for Largo--Taquitz Traverse


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beneath the valley of ultravegans
Topic Author's Original Post - May 18, 2005 - 09:11am PT
I've heard that years ago Rick Accamazo did a traverse of Taquitz. Any details? Hair-raising/razing stories?

Desolation Basin, Calif.
May 18, 2005 - 09:53am PT
It's a piece of cake. I did it last year. Up the White Maiden, over the top and signed the register and down the North Gully. From the top of the Maiden, it is hands in pocket walking. It's not exactly the Palisade Crest!

May 18, 2005 - 10:30am PT
Guy named Gary Valle mentions a traverse that another dude named Dennis Johnson had told him about. A parital record of it can be found here:
Kevin Graves

Trad climber
Lake Arrowhead, CA
May 18, 2005 - 10:36am PT
Whatever happened to Rick Accomazo? I hear of Rob Muir and others from that time but never Rick. He taught me to climb in 1976 and lucky me even introduced me on my first day to Tom Frost. Ironically, on my son's first day of climbing in Yosemite (24 years later); I introduced him to Tom Frost.

Did Rick become a lawyer?
looking sketchy there...

Social climber
Latitute 33
May 19, 2005 - 11:18am PT
Rick Accomazzo graduated from Law School in California and moved to Boulder, Colorado where he has been living and raising a family ever since. He is successful attorney, still climbs some and an all around great person.
John Vawter

Social climber
San Diego
May 19, 2005 - 12:21pm PT
Never popular, I think because there is no clearly superior route. I heard the crux was climbing down into the Open Book (left to right), especially for the second. Probably required leaving a piece above and back belaying the second. But now there are bolted routes on the left "leaf" of the Book. So maybe it could be downclimbed without rope shenanigans.

Here's another route you won't find in the guidebook.

Anomelet 5.9

Climb El Grandote to end of third pitch. (4) Traverse up and right and belay below 5.6/7 overhang on Northeast Face. (5) 10 to 15 below overhang, traverse up and right over overlapping slabs (R, lichen encrusted) past big yellow "tooth" and into big gully that East Lark comes up through. (6) Traverse up and right over steep, featured, fun orange and brown face to next big gully. (7) Traverse up and right to small roof with yellow and red lichen, and loose block in wide crack. Up and right to flake that takes small cams. Undercling right (crux) then up to base of long right-facing dihedral. Lieback halfway up and belay. (8, 9) Continue straight up for 2 pitches, or continue traversing right another pitch (awkward) to the Whodunit overhang.

I suppose I could just say "From the overhang on Northeast Face, traverse up and right for five pitches to the overhang on Whodunit."


Trad climber
San Diego
Apr 30, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
Does anyone have any more info on the girdle traverse of tahquitz?
Rick A

Boulder, Colorado
May 1, 2008 - 10:42pm PT

Rob Muir and I completed a traverse of Tahquitz that we called “New Directions,” in May of 1975. I have the route marked into my ancient Wilts Guide and I’ll try to scan and post it when I get a chance. Most of it was not very hard, since we were concentrating on just finding a connecting line. What it lacks in difficulty, though is made up in length. I forget how many pitches it was, but there were many.

The best part was getting to the Edge and then, across the South Face. I remember an improbable, downward traverse from the Edge into the Open Book, and this was probably the best climbing. We rated this part 5.10(d), if I recall correctly.

Good to make contact again, although I’m having trouble remembering the circumstances.At that time, Rob Muir and I had started a guide service we called “Flight Systems Mountaineering." You must have been one of our few customers. Give me more details and I’ll probably be able to remember. Glad to hear that you stuck with climbing after the initial instruction!

Thanks for the kind words.

Rick A

Boulder, Colorado
Sep 21, 2008 - 03:12pm PT
Time flies.
Finally got around to posting the line of
"New Directions", the Tahquitz traverse Rob Muir and I did in 1975. This is from my orange Wilts guidebook.

Still plenty of new traverse lines left!

Sport climber
Venice, Ca
Sep 21, 2008 - 06:51pm PT
Sounds epic and I remember Ricky talking about it after he and Rob bagged the first. I'd imagine there are various ways to go and other options are there for the picking.

Go for it.


Gym climber
) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) . . . Buffering
Sep 22, 2008 - 03:37am PT
B U M P . . .

Where I once was,I think?
Sep 22, 2008 - 03:43am PT
Hey, Rick

How many pitches? A bunch Eh?

Sep 22, 2008 - 03:57am PT
Isn't that the traverse Mari, Mike, Dean(Bullwinkle) and Jessica were soloing when I was I wee lad?

Gym climber
) ) ) ) ) ) ) ) . . . Buffering
Sep 23, 2008 - 03:19am PT
Dr. Rock

Ice climber
Sep 23, 2008 - 04:55am PT
Oh cool, Gary Valle is also an expert kayaker, I see him every year at the Moke Races.

Kind of Hollywood, but he country too.

Here is his multifaceted site, or one pf them at least:

Thanks Murph!


Social climber
the Time Before the Rocks Cooled.
Sep 23, 2008 - 09:24pm PT
Sigh. Like you, Rick, I remember taking a few notes on our farce called "New Directions"... Somewhere. (It's not in old guidebook, can't find it in any of my notebooks, can't find it in any of my mags.) You got more details that I do!

I seem to recall that we wrote it up in the middle of an area report for Mountain, but that too escapes my feeble eye.

We broke the route into two days, so that we could descend for grub at the pub and a good night's sleep. Back on it near the Trough, the Open Book section was pretty cool (and surprisingly well protected—what with a top-rope for the leader, and a top-rope for the second using a back belay.) And the South Face stuff was pretty cool, too.

Somewhere around 30 or 32 pitches, wasn't it? BITD of 50m cords.

Sep 24, 2008 - 09:51pm PT
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