Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 66 of total 66 in this topic |
Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 11:04am PT
|
Wow! That looks pretty cool!
|
|
enjoimx
Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 11:12am PT
|
What a rad route....Nice send
Is this on chapel wall?
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 11:15am PT
|
Way to go Katie! nice send!!
oh yeah, Kaukulators, jeans, taped hands, and long sleeves... and I've never seen a #2 look so big!
The Viper 5.11c The Rostrum, West, Jungle Gym FA 1985 Werner Braun John Middendorf
thanks for the video and posting Chris
|
|
Wade Icey
Trad climber
www.alohashirtrescue.com
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 11:19am PT
|
Well.. I guess that takes care of the "Are climber girls easy?" question.
|
|
CF
climber
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 11:20am PT
|
It is a VERY stiff 5.11c! And it is very overhanging.
|
|
k-man
Gym climber
SCruz
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 11:37am PT
|
I've tried to scope that thing through the trees a couple of times, it's hard to see from the ground. Nice view there, and nice to get a bit of beta!
Thanks CF!
|
|
hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 11:47am PT
|
YEAH! Great video, thanks!
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 12:04pm PT
|
Thanks Chris!
Nice send Katie, what a save! Good thing she taped up.
I'm glad to hear someone else calling that thing stout 11c, Reid gives it 11b/c.
Back when we use to climb after work, Chilly Whilly and I did that route. Chilly got the proud send and I think I grovelled up the thing not expecting it to be so hard. It hadn't had much loving, kinda dirty and loose. I remember the first pitch to get there was nice.The anchor was looking a bit dated as well. We expected that, I think we replaced both the 1/4" bolts with 3/8. Thanks for the rope Chilley!
Jeff
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
|
Nice job, Katie!
I'm guessing a 39 mythos will be optimal
another one for the list.
I'm in!
steep as the gristle
width of a thistle
|
|
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
|
There is a lot of good climbing there. It is good that it is getting some traffic.
Ken
|
|
Jack Burns
climber
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 02:09pm PT
|
cool vid, i watched it the other day while surfing Vimeo.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 02:53pm PT
|
I did an early ascent of this route. I think Grant found it and Werner ended up bagging it. It is kind of hard to scope from the ground but after a mungy approach pitch you are rewarded with a classic Yosemite fracture.
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 08:18pm PT
|
I am curious on the rating. Every jam I saw in the vid was pretty well bomber. Is it so over hanging that it is an enduro project? The little offset near the top seemed it might be technical but couldnt tell. A great looking crack btw. Wish I would have known about it. Used to do Kaukulater a fair amount. Where exactly is it in relation to that route?
|
|
katiebird
climber
yosemite
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
|
The Viper is a great line; definitely steep and it is a good thing I taped. It's really quite nice over there. That was my first time over there but Ken you were right, it potentially is another Cookie Cliff. Plus the view from the anchors was spectacular.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 08:25pm PT
|
It has a similar look to some of those continuous desert climbs. I'm sorry I've missed this one until now. It's got a kind of colorado plateau Vibe. You see this, Fred? When are we going?
|
|
Chris2
Trad climber
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 08:28pm PT
|
проклятье что внушительный отказ!
|
|
Anastasia
climber
Not here
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 08:29pm PT
|
Wow! I am impressed!
|
|
MisterE
Trad climber
My Inner Nut
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 09:09pm PT
|
Nice send, Katie. Looked like you were workin' hard. That last transition looks a bit tricky, too.
So, how bad IS the approach pitch?
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 09:13pm PT
|
You're a pessimist, Chris2. We'll go there together, you drive.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 09:34pm PT
|
Dirty Kenny
Grant didn't find it. I found it first years before and tried to clean on rappel. It was too steep and I had no gear to pull myself in.
Grant and Ken Yeager cleaned on aid eventually but couldn't lead it while I was at the base hoping to get a top rope.
They looked down and asked if I wanted to try.
I lucked out and got to lead it for the first ascent.
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 10:12pm PT
|
blue kauks are sweet shoes for sure.
And that crack looks brilliant. For those that think its not 5.11d because the climber makes it look so easy. Rest assured I could make it look even harder.
Tom
|
|
James
climber
Leavenworthless
|
|
|
Nov 24, 2008 - 11:05pm PT
|
Nice job Katie. Cool crack.
|
|
Doug Robinson
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2008 - 10:28am PT
|
What a Valley! I see so many new things every time I drive in, but never noticed this...
Way to go Katie.
|
|
hossjulia
Trad climber
Eastside
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2008 - 10:43am PT
|
I have a feeling my dude-sized hands would not fit that crack so neatly....
Not to mention hauling an extra 50 pounds. :P
|
|
Jingy
Social climber
Flatland, Ca
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2008 - 10:49am PT
|
This video proves to me, beyond the shadow of doubt, that Katie Bird is a BAD AZZ!!!
Nice send!
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Redlands
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2008 - 08:36pm PT
|
Bump for Katiebird sending a cool semi-obscure line. Better than political wanking anyday.
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2008 - 11:02am PT
|
I finally got to a computer that could run this.
Katie, nice send. Looks like a cool climb.
CF,
Thanks for posting it.
Zander
|
|
msiddens
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2008 - 03:09pm PT
|
MAN, the slip/catch was awesome. Great and clean video.
|
|
KP Ariza
climber
SCC
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2008 - 03:26pm PT
|
Sorry for the mis-info on it Werner, I knew it was something along those lines. I think we talked about it together around the time I went and did it. Great route, if I remember correctly the first 30 or so feet is the biz then it is sinker hands for the remainder.
|
|
Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2008 - 05:48pm PT
|
Nice job Katie!!
Chris - what did you shoot that with and what is the format you upload to vimeo? It looks good and runs pretty much full speed even over a DSL line
|
|
nutjob
Stoked OW climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Nov 26, 2008 - 08:30pm PT
|
This is a wonderful looking route... nice send!
So what's the gear beta? As many #1 to #3 as you can borrow?
Is it just the filming angle, or is there a decent chance of whacking the adjacent slab if you run out the gear a little more?
|
|
wildone
climber
GHOST TOWN
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2008 - 11:51am PT
|
Radical Katie!
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2008 - 05:49pm PT
|
Pretty AWESOME. I just wish I could've seen the entire
video. . . for some reason when I viewed it, the video would stop
after about every 10 seconds. . .
|
|
GhoulweJ
Trad climber
Sacramento, CA
|
|
|
Nov 29, 2008 - 08:51pm PT
|
awesome
thanks for the post
|
|
B-Dog
Trad climber
|
|
|
Mar 27, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
|
This is definitely on the to do list next time I'm in the Valley! HOly Sh!t!!! i had no idea this thing existed until I saw the video.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2009 - 12:19am PT
|
Bump it back up there!
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2009 - 12:56am PT
|
I have a feeling a lost classic will be revived this summer. How can you not want to climb that thing?
|
|
JOEY.F
Social climber
sebastopol
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2009 - 01:10am PT
|
Inspiring crack climbing! woh ....
Looks like that's what it's all about.
|
|
Fletcher
Trad climber
here to eternity
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2009 - 01:56am PT
|
Watching this made my night. Something about the jeans and kaukulors gives is a classic feel. Nice!
Eric
|
|
Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2009 - 02:08am PT
|
Krikee, people actually climb that thing? It looks damn hard, but pretty. The picture itself is very inspiring, even knowing it's beyond me. Way to go, Katie!
|
|
Fogarty
Big Wall climber
Back In Time
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2009 - 02:22am PT
|
Katie! GIRL UP... AWSOME... and your cute.....
|
|
cleo
Social climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Mar 28, 2009 - 05:21pm PT
|
nice job Katie! Looking forward to more reports
|
|
Scott Cole
Trad climber
Jackson, WY^
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2009 - 01:57pm PT
|
Nice video. I remember feeling like I was going to puke at the top of that thing. The Jungle Gym has some other great routes as well.
Scole
|
|
Crimpergirl
Social climber
Boulder, Colorado!
|
|
|
Mar 29, 2009 - 02:46pm PT
|
Awesome - thanks for sharing!
|
|
altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 05:01pm PT
|
Was talking to a friend of mine about the jungle gym this afternoon. We may be heading out there soonish. Has anyone gotten on the Viper this fall? I'm thinking of having a look at it myself and taking some whippers.
|
|
Jerry Dodrill
climber
Sebastopol, CA
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 05:37pm PT
|
Whats the rack beta?
And how do you grade a route like this? Crux+Pump factor? Just crux?
|
|
Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 07:47pm PT
|
this climb looks so good.
the gear beta would be nice to know.
From the video she placed at least 2 yellow and 2 red.
The crack looks mostly perfect hands/ this hands all the way.
3-4 #2 and 3-4 #1 ???
topo show that crux is in the bottom of the climb where size 1 1/4". This part of the climb we did not see on the movie.
I also found the old ST tread about Viper
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=105846&msg=108982#msg108982
check it out if you want to find Viper easily
|
|
Slakkey
Trad climber
From a Quiet Place by the Lake
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 08:01pm PT
|
Nice
|
|
tom woods
Gym climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 08:23pm PT
|
reds and yellows are way fun. Boy that thing looks good. Time to quit my job, of course I can just wait a month or two and I'll probably get laid off the way things are headed.
|
|
madbolter1
Big Wall climber
Walla Walla, WA
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 08:49pm PT
|
Fantastic! My hands were sweating the whole time... almost like being there! Great video clip, and NICE job, Katie!
|
|
'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
|
|
|
Sep 10, 2009 - 11:26pm PT
|
Nice job Chris and Katie!
Did you have Friends when you sent it, Werner?
|
|
mark miller
Social climber
Reno
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2009 - 12:23am PT
|
Yeah Climber "Chicks" are easy you just have to be able to Catch them.....I'm sure WB had a few friends( or relatives at least).......We can now practice leap frogging Camelot's on our aid circuit to doing the Nose right Chris?
|
|
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2009 - 12:36am PT
|
It gets to wide hands at the end. Old #3 1/2 Friends and close to a #4 for the final 25 - 30 feet. Yeah he had friends, there was Deucey, me and Grant. There is some pretty good climbing in that area.
Ken
|
|
altieboo
Boulder climber
Livermore, Ca
|
|
|
Sep 11, 2009 - 12:58am PT
|
Ya my buddy took a jaunt over to the jungle gym yesterday and was reminded of how much a "sporty" climber would enjoy that spot and mentioned we should make it a point to check it out while the river is cooperating. Then I remembered the Viper which is naturally a must do.
|
|
Tork
climber
Yosemite
|
|
Gotta bump this. Nice video Chris! Great climb!
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
Beautiful crack!
Nice work!
|
|
Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Sep 19, 2011 - 03:56pm PT
|
bump for Viper.
Time to cross the river. Where is best place to cross?
|
|
Elcapinyoazz
Social climber
Joshua Tree
|
|
|
Sep 19, 2011 - 05:57pm PT
|
We were just talking about this the other day. The Reid guide gives no real description for accessing the Jungle Gym...doesn't even really say where it is in relation to Rostrum or how high/low on the canyon wall etc.
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
|
Sep 19, 2011 - 08:50pm PT
|
Spectacular!
It's always great to see how women climb with all the extra balancing steps.
It really helps me get up my own tough 5.6 walls!
If only I were 40 years younger!
|
|
Chicken Skinner
Trad climber
Yosemite
|
|
|
Sep 19, 2011 - 09:00pm PT
|
Cross the river just upstream of where Cascade Creek hits the Merced River at Cascade picnic area(with the big deep slow moving water). Zigzag uphill for about ten minutes. The Viper is on the right end of the 400' wall that is right of the Rostrum. The Viper is just to left of the toe of that wall. Lots of good climbing there and more to do. I always called it the Cookie of the future.
Ken
|
|
Brokedownclimber
Trad climber
Douglas, WY
|
|
|
Sep 19, 2011 - 10:01pm PT
|
A beautiful climb nicely executed! This is what "it's all about!"
To expound and expand on some of Jan's thoughts: if I were only 40 pounds lighter and 50 years younger...
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Sep 19, 2011 - 10:14pm PT
|
Climb to the top of the Cookie Cliff.
Top of Nabisco Wall.
From there do the "swan dive" into Merced river.
Swim across.
Bushwhack through tons of poison oak.
You have arrived ......
|
|
Kalimon
Trad climber
Ridgway, CO
|
|
|
Sep 19, 2011 - 10:27pm PT
|
Footholds look plentiful in the final section . . . what a luxury in comparison with continuously smooth desert Wingate cracks.
Plug and chug . . . splitter or skitter.
|
|
Alexey
Trad climber
San Jose, CA
|
|
|
Sep 26, 2011 - 06:31pm PT
|
Thanks Ken for approach info. We crossed river exactly where you said, but than went directly up to Jungle Gym and had a big Poison oak bushwhack. For those who want to go there and never been-
I'll have approach description with no Poison oak ( we found on our way back):
"The best to reach Jungle Gym is to park at Pat&Jack, cross the river just 200 feet upstream of where Cascade Creek hits the Merced River. In Low water it very easy cross - water below your knee. Than walk ~100 yards upstream tower the Rostrum about 45 degree relative to Merced river. As soon you cross power line it should be faint trail going uphill toward Jungle Gym now almost perpendicular to river. Trail bring you to the base of Flight Attendant."
Viper was deceptively looking way easier from the base of the p2 than it really is. Very overhanging- and you can see it from the top.
And it is really looks as the snake
Approach pitch is trash. Crawling via Bay tree branches
Here the goal of our trip- p2 - is very good and brutal
Very overhanging when look from the top
There are many good climbs there. Flight Attendant - overhanging hands/wide hands is very clean:
|
|
le_bruce
climber
Oakland, CA
|
|
|
Sep 26, 2011 - 07:25pm PT
|
Good stuff, OP and Alexey. Killer thread. Fuel for fire.
|
|
| Messages 1 - 66 of total 66 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!