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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 20, 2008 - 11:07pm PT
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Don,
exceptional account! What really works for me is that, even though Don and Layton were doing a difficult climb (3rd ascent of WFLT), the story is not about all the pitches of 5.13d, 5.14a, 5.13b that they climbed. This story is way more interesting because it is about the relationship between the two climbers.
I think the current generation of "tigers" could learn a lot from reading Don's account. Numbers get pretty boring, especially now that just about everybody is climbing "hard". It is not about the destination, it is about the journey.
Bruce
ps - that guy on the far right in the photo looks like Fritz Wiessner.
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Double D
climber
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Nov 20, 2008 - 11:24pm PT
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""He had a “plan.” I had no clue.""
Too funny! I like the candle plan. Hard-Kor for sure!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2008 - 02:24am PT
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bhilden,
Come on Bruce, that's Glen Exum!
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2008 - 02:30am PT
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You guys are great!
Grossman: Jug-er-not
Double D: Hard-Kor
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bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
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Nov 21, 2008 - 04:32am PT
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Don,
did anyone ever tell Glen Exum he looks like Fritz Wiessner!
Keep 'em coming! These are classics!
Bruce
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Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2008 - 01:42pm PT
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Mike & Valerie Cohen bump
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Fletcher
Trad climber
the campfire just a ways past Chris' Taco stand
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Awesome story Don... with emphasis on the story part. So true that linear recitations of numbers have limited mileage, at least in my book. We humans love stories.
Fletch
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Fletch,
That is getting the heart of the matter.
Philo's latest Black Canyon thread,
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=730016&tn=0
In this new Black Canyon thread, Peter Haan underscored this notion about what makes compelling writing about climbing (in particular he was commenting on, and encouraging Phil's style):
"Gee. This was real writing." ... "No blow by blow account--- tedious engineering style---of what they did, but rather their much more interesting human issues: their fear and concern detailed and how they related to each other and to their own particular live and what might happen tomorrow."
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GDavis
Trad climber
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Sep 11, 2009 - 09:25pm PT
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Bump!
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Sep 11, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
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GDavis, thanks for the bump. I missed this story last November.
Don: Great story! I remember hearing about Madsen doing a wall without being clipped into his jumars. Ah, those were the days...
I hope your putting your writing into a book. You offer a unique perspective of American rock climbing history
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Ray-J
Social climber
east L.A. vato...
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Sep 12, 2009 - 09:26am PT
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Wonderful story.
Thanks so much for sharing.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Sep 12, 2009 - 10:22am PT
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Good story Don! Do you still get cold thinking about it?
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Maysho
climber
Truckee, CA
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Sep 12, 2009 - 10:47am PT
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Great story Don!
That is a very young Renny Jackson in the teton summit photo above.
Peter
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GZ
Trad climber
Joshua Tree
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Sep 10, 2010 - 06:36pm PT
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Wonderful story Don.
Have your elbows ever recovered? <G>
-George
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Batrock
Trad climber
Burbank
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Sep 10, 2010 - 06:44pm PT
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Don,
You remember what street that tin shed was on in Burbank? A old family friend took a trip to Yosemite with Chouinard after running into him at that shed, they talked about falconry a d climbing at Stony. My dad grew up in Burbank and is the same age as Yvonne, my dad used to climb at Williamson Rock, Mt. Pacifico and Stony back in the 50's but never ran into Yvonne or any other climbers of the day.
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Mark Hudon
Trad climber
Hood River, OR
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Sep 10, 2010 - 08:49pm PT
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Great story, Don! Thanks.
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Scraptee
Trad climber
Tacoma
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Mar 20, 2012 - 12:15pm PT
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One of my all-time favorite ST threads. Needs a bump...
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FRUMY
Trad climber
SHERMAN OAKS,CA
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Mar 20, 2012 - 12:23pm PT
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Thanks for the bump.
Great thread.
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