Layton Kor - Act III My Life in Spire Repair

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Messages 41 - 60 of total 73 in this topic << First  |  < Previous  |  Show All  |  Next >  |  Last >>
Roger Breedlove

climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
Nov 20, 2008 - 08:17pm PT
Hey Don,

I thought that you were kidding about hammering rivets into pins with your suit on. Looks like a fashion spread. Ha ha.

Very cool pictures.
scuffy b

climber
On the dock in the dark
Nov 20, 2008 - 08:47pm PT
Thanks, Strider. That one stands for Rat F*#k, I believe.
I think the MW is between Lower Yosemite Falls and Sunnyside
Bench, maybe even called Sunnyside Bench--MW route.
Mighty Hiker

Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
Nov 20, 2008 - 08:52pm PT
Sunnyside Bench - MW Route

Art Gran and Jack Hansen, September 1960.

"This is a filthy, decomposed climb a few feet to the right of the Waterfall Route."
scuffy b

climber
On the dock in the dark
Nov 20, 2008 - 08:56pm PT
Thanks, Anders. That's the one with the Matriarchal
Prositution allusion.
Roper makes it sound pretty nice, though, doesn't he?
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 10:22pm PT
MH2,

No Fitschen ain't in the picture and Corbet is in the RED hat.

My memory has been jogged. Jack Hansen was the guy that got me into rock climbing (See "The Original Vulgarian" somewhere in the depths of this forum). Now I remember him telling me that he and Gran did a route in the Valley. And I can only guess that "MW" is definitely a referral to matriarchal prostitution.

bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Nov 20, 2008 - 11:07pm PT
Don,

exceptional account! What really works for me is that, even though Don and Layton were doing a difficult climb (3rd ascent of WFLT), the story is not about all the pitches of 5.13d, 5.14a, 5.13b that they climbed. This story is way more interesting because it is about the relationship between the two climbers.

I think the current generation of "tigers" could learn a lot from reading Don's account. Numbers get pretty boring, especially now that just about everybody is climbing "hard". It is not about the destination, it is about the journey.

Bruce

ps - that guy on the far right in the photo looks like Fritz Wiessner.
Double D

climber
Nov 20, 2008 - 11:24pm PT
""He had a “plan.” I had no clue.""

Too funny! I like the candle plan. Hard-Kor for sure!
Chris McNamara

SuperTopo staff member
Nov 21, 2008 - 01:22am PT
Great story. I just added a link to it to the Leaning Tower Page - http://www.supertopo.com/rockclimbing/route.html?r=yblewest
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2008 - 02:24am PT
bhilden,

Come on Bruce, that's Glen Exum!
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 21, 2008 - 02:30am PT
You guys are great!

Grossman: Jug-er-not

Double D: Hard-Kor
bhilden

Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
Nov 21, 2008 - 04:32am PT
Don,

did anyone ever tell Glen Exum he looks like Fritz Wiessner!

Keep 'em coming! These are classics!

Bruce
Mike.

climber
Nov 21, 2008 - 09:34am PT
Great account of your climb, DL. Really enjoyable.

Knowing the route makes the read even more fun. It's sort of novel thinking of the WFLT as a cutting edge climb, as for years the route has been one of the standard precursors to El Cap and other grade sixes. Along with many other folks, I upgraded some of the old hardware which was chronically failing. It was a real history buzz yanking out some of those old Star Dryvins with shafts worn down to 1/16th of an inch by spinning hangers, weight and time. Actually, kind of sad on a level.

Cheers, and thanks again for your great contributions on the Forum.
Don Lauria

Trad climber
Bishop, CA
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 22, 2008 - 01:42pm PT
Mike & Valerie Cohen bump
Fletcher

Trad climber
the campfire just a ways past Chris' Taco stand
Dec 6, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
Awesome story Don... with emphasis on the story part. So true that linear recitations of numbers have limited mileage, at least in my book. We humans love stories.

Fletch
Tarbuster

climber
right here, right now
Dec 6, 2008 - 01:51pm PT
Fletch,
That is getting the heart of the matter.

Philo's latest Black Canyon thread,
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=730016&tn=0

In this new Black Canyon thread, Peter Haan underscored this notion about what makes compelling writing about climbing (in particular he was commenting on, and encouraging Phil's style):

"Gee. This was real writing." ... "No blow by blow account--- tedious engineering style---of what they did, but rather their much more interesting human issues: their fear and concern detailed and how they related to each other and to their own particular live and what might happen tomorrow."
GDavis

Trad climber
Sep 11, 2009 - 09:25pm PT
Bump!
PhilG

Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
Sep 11, 2009 - 11:59pm PT
GDavis, thanks for the bump. I missed this story last November.

Don: Great story! I remember hearing about Madsen doing a wall without being clipped into his jumars. Ah, those were the days...
I hope your putting your writing into a book. You offer a unique perspective of American rock climbing history
Ray-J

Social climber
east L.A. vato...
Sep 12, 2009 - 09:26am PT
Wonderful story.

Thanks so much for sharing.
donini

Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
Sep 12, 2009 - 10:22am PT
Good story Don! Do you still get cold thinking about it?
Maysho

climber
Truckee, CA
Sep 12, 2009 - 10:47am PT
Great story Don!

That is a very young Renny Jackson in the teton summit photo above.

Peter
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