Discussion Topic |
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 17, 2008 - 02:54pm PT
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A DOLPHIN GOING PAST THE TRAVERSE!!!
Through the forest primeval, bearded in moss,
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 17, 2008 - 03:08pm PT
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Golden! And pink!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 17, 2008 - 03:51pm PT
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Thalassa! Thalassa!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 17, 2008 - 04:49pm PT
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By way of encouragement...
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Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
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Nov 17, 2008 - 05:05pm PT
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Wow ! Great Photos. Ahhh, to be young again. Maybe we should have a when you looked your greatest in your Bikini thread ? :D
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 17, 2008 - 05:09pm PT
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"Maybe we should have a when you looked your greatest in your Bikini thread?"
I'm guessing that many of us may be non-entrants in that particular contest.
Edit: This should not be interpreted as opposition to anyone wishing to pose photos of bikini-clad humans, particularly females. If climbing, so much the better.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 17, 2008 - 05:10pm PT
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I'd hope so! But what a fine idea.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 17, 2008 - 10:12pm PT
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"By way of encouragement..."
No, no, by way of encouraging YOU, Alphonse.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:30pm PT
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Costa Blanca?
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:43pm PT
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WOW!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:45pm PT
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Except for the first and possibly the last photo (the ladybug!), all the pictures in Andy's first post were taken about ten km from where I am sitting right now.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 17, 2008 - 11:21pm PT
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Well, of course! And except for that Peñón.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 17, 2008 - 11:22pm PT
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Low-adventure seacliff climbing:
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 18, 2008 - 09:06am PT
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 18, 2008 - 09:07am PT
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 12:49pm PT
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Climbing near the water promotes interesting choices in clothing, even in February:
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 12:52pm PT
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"Costa Blanca?"
Dang, I thought that was Heaven.
The lady bug was on the traverse, Anders.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 18, 2008 - 01:11pm PT
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Hi Andy -- long time, no see. Maybe we should rectify that once the sun shines on Squamish again. Or maybe you should come down and check out what we're doing on Zeke's Wall.
As to the seaside stuff, maybe it's just me getting old and forgetting things, but I sure don't remember that woman in the bikini being there when I last traversed those cliffs...
David
Edit: Hmmm. She probably wasn't even born when I last traversed those cliffs.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 18, 2008 - 02:08pm PT
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Dang, I thought that was Heaven.
This place is called Paradiset. Felt a little ominous to me.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 18, 2008 - 03:29pm PT
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Whoops, is this the right way to go?
GO
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2008 - 03:02am PT
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David,
Not knowing what to make of this beehive, it was reassuring to find your own contributions to the Squamish-in-the-70s thread.
I hope we do venture out again. Is this Zeke's business as good as rapping through a tangle of wet saplings to scarify the rock and bombs-away adjust the rope to the height of the outcrop?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2008 - 03:05am PT
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Through the forest primeval,
bearded in moss,
to risk my neck on wet rock just for a pose. 18 November 2008
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2008 - 03:13am PT
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Chiloe,
Sweden? "a superb area of granite cliffs and boulders set beside the sparkling sea"
sounds on topic
I like to see veins of lighter or darker rock running through the main mass.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 07:36am PT
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Sweden? "a superb area of granite cliffs and boulders set beside the sparkling sea"
The sunnier photo I posted above was from Kullen, in Sweden.
Not granite, but I had superb times there, and it sparkled some, on my two visits.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 07:44am PT
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The gloomier of the two photos I posted first page, Paradiset, was from Lofoten in Norway.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 08:37am PT
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Then of course there was the low-adventure shot, climbing the walls of Fort McClary
in Portsmouth Harbor. That's illegal, though it might not have been back when these
photos were taken.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 19, 2008 - 10:36am PT
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Is this Zeke's business as good as rapping through a tangle of wet saplings to scarify the rock and bombs-away adjust the rope to the height of the outcrop?
Oh it's much better. Much better. The saplings are bigger and wetter, there are more of them, and they're much harder to get to, the scarification is on a whole new level, the bombs are bigger, and they fall from much greater heights.
Here's a start for your education: http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=660999&msg=660999#msg660999
And here's something to whet your appetite for a trip to Zeke's:
Mixed climbing, Pacific Northwest style
D
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 12:21pm PT
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GO
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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WBraun
climber
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Nov 19, 2008 - 12:24pm PT
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Sea and Rock
This is a beautiful thread .....
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Nov 19, 2008 - 12:51pm PT
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A good thread that could only improve if it included on-topic post-traverse shots of The Trawler Pub. They used to open a keg a day of their most popular ale, and it was usually gone by 5.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 19, 2008 - 01:19pm PT
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Howe Sound from the top of the Squamish Chief
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 02:07pm PT
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 02:20pm PT
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GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 02:30pm PT
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You've got some great shots from your adventure, GO.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 02:47pm PT
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Thanks, Chiloe!
Adventure is the right word. First time online for many of the pics. Want more?
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 02:49pm PT
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This looks like the place for them.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 19, 2008 - 03:50pm PT
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Oh hell, just one more...
The last photo, on the last climb, on the last day of that trip.
And really my last one on this thread, I promise.
GO
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Nov 19, 2008 - 04:12pm PT
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I love climbing on sea-cliffs. One of several joys is the contrast between the light-hearted holiday atmosphere of many of the locations and the adventure to be had close by. The approach to Moonraker is a fine example. One moment you're in a car park in south Devon with tourists licking ice-cream, a couple of minutes later you're blindly down-soloing vertical 5.4, 90' above the water. Assuming you've got the tide times correct and the swell is minimal, you traverse horizontally just above the waterline for a few hundred feet around the back of a large, black, dripping sea-cave. It's all very atmospheric.
Moonraker is in 'Hard Rock' a Brit. equivalent of 50 classic climbs, so it’s not a surprise to find another team on the route. The first pitch diagonals up to the crack-line, climbs this for a way, before heading back left again following an archetypal line of least resistance.
The rock is limestone, it looks a little weird but is pretty solid. The cave has a bunch of hard-ish climbs that weave through the overhangs and a classic 5.10+ that starts up Moonraker, traverses right on the flutings just above the lip, before heading on up. The gentleman in the photos has written a great tale about his ascent of this route here.
The climbing is 5.8 for a few moves, mostly easier, but is steep and feels committing: it's the easiest way out and if you can't get up the route it might be an eight hour wait for the tide to go back down, hoping the sea stays calm, or you could swim…
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 04:17pm PT
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COclimb:
The last photo, on the last climb, on the last day of that trip.
Hey, where's the post-bivy shot? That one is a gem, sums up the people
& the story!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 19, 2008 - 04:20pm PT
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Duncan, those shots are spectacular. Got more? You've inspired me to dig
out my well-read copy of Hard Rock.
A UK seacliff-climbing holiday is one of those trips I always wanted to make, but
never got 'round to.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 19, 2008 - 04:34pm PT
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Wow, GOclimb!
On Moonraker, "It's all very atmospheric. "
You step blind round a corner of sheer rock and move carefully down into the vast, dank mouth of the cave. It seems as big as a cathedral: a black, thundering dome, like a lunatic's skull, water boiling along its floor, birds flitting in the dark air.
Al Alvarez in Hard Rock
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 03:46am PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 20, 2008 - 11:11am PT
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 20, 2008 - 01:09pm PT
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Chiloe wrote: Hey, where's the post-bivy shot? That one is a gem, sums up the people
& the story!
Hmm, not sure which one you mean?
Here's Julia finishing the traverse, with our bivvy ledge visible over her shoulder:
Or do you mean the shot where she's talking to her mom on the cell phone, and everyone's relaxing for a moment before tackling the last half of the climb:
Or the one taken right when we finished the climb?
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 20, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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GO, those all are great shots, but the last one's kind of special.
You guys had quite the trip.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 20, 2008 - 06:15pm PT
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Yes, GO. Always nice to see people clearly having a good time.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 23, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
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Duncan's Moonraker photos, followed by MH2 quoting Alvarez, reminded me about
Hard Rock, which is one of my all-time favorite armchair mountaineering books.
Armchair because I've not done a single one of the climbs, and yet read it cover to cover.
Highly recommended, for any of you armchair mountaineers who don't have this.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 23, 2008 - 06:28pm PT
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One memorable essay by Royal Robbins describes climbing Dream of White Horses.
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Churningindawake
Sport climber
Portland, Oregon
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Nov 23, 2008 - 06:31pm PT
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Nice pictures!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 23, 2008 - 07:09pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 23, 2008 - 07:15pm PT
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The Dream of White Horses chapter wraps up with Leo Dickinson's stunning photo
of the first ascent.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 23, 2008 - 07:49pm PT
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Thanks. The modest image sizes still came out looking good at this end and didn't take fo-evah over the dial-up.
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Nov 23, 2008 - 09:43pm PT
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Great photos, all.
Rappeled into Wen Zawn in 1977 and did a climb called “Quartz Icicle” just left of “Dream of White Horses.” Photo by Candy Muir of Rob Muir and I . Amazing location.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 23, 2008 - 11:59pm PT
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That rappel into Wen Zawn is a real sac shriveler.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 24, 2008 - 06:29pm PT
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And some days even a walk around town gets exciting.
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Nov 24, 2008 - 08:26pm PT
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Great thread here, Andy.
I'll let you know of some hopefully unintended consequences,
just because I've been affected for, what, a week and a half
now.
Every time my eye falls on the thread title, my mind launches
immediately into
"By the Sea, by the Sea, by the beautiful Sea..."
which proves to be quite the catchy tune (as in, Can't Get It
Out of My Head)
But I also can't help thinking, "Wine-dark Sea" and that is
ample compensation.
WWOD?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 24, 2008 - 08:32pm PT
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The odyssey continues...
Some of Andy's shots were taken at a little-known cliff near Vancouver, which provides an entertaining traverse. Probably easy 5.10, and at high tide one to five metres above water. Maybe 100 m long. Very good swimming, lovely spot.
It's in a municipal park, but the authorities don't seem very keen on climbing there, or indeed public use. Quite a wealthy neighbourhood, with all that goes with it. So a very low profile and limited use are good ideas. Luckily the nature of the traverse, and limited parking, discourage many.
The "surf" shots were from the West Vancouver seawall - the traverse would also have been getting a good pounding that day.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2008 - 01:19am PT
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WWOD?
What would Oscar do?
Jump in feet first?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2008 - 09:45am PT
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Then take me disappearin down the smoke rings of my mind,
Let me forget about today
Until tomorrow
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 25, 2008 - 12:17pm PT
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Then take me disappearin'
through the smoke rings of my mind,
Down the foggy ruins of time,
far past the frozen leaves,
The haunted, frightened trees,
out to the windy beach,
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Nov 25, 2008 - 12:29pm PT
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Then take me disappearin' through the smoke rings of my mind,
Down the foggy ruins of time,
far past the frozen leaves,
The haunted, frightened trees,
out to the windy beach,
Whoops... no good windy beach shot readily available. I'll add one later (in the meantime, look at the one Chiloe posted directly above)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 25, 2008 - 12:55pm PT
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Looks like Dylan-imprinted great minds think alike, or something....
The windy black beach posted above was near Vic in south Iceland.
Below, the classic Morning Glory on Great Head in Acadia.
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perswig
climber
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Nov 25, 2008 - 01:17pm PT
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I was waiting for a Great Head shot. Nice split lighting and looks like a 'dry' day all the way from the start.
Dale
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 25, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
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perswig, here's one more from that fine morning on Great Head.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 25, 2008 - 01:24pm PT
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MH2, I just noticed -- is that a sea lion in your photo?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 25, 2008 - 04:09pm PT
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Beautiful images.
I think I saw a witch's roost? Or an alien listening post?
And second the excellent handling of high-contrast lighting on the first Great Head shot. Is that the Acadia NP Acadia?
If it was a sea lion it was a small one. I saw it as a little seal. Possibly a midget.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 27, 2008 - 05:53pm PT
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A fine John Cleare survey of early seacliff climbing from Ascent 1972.
The right half of image above.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 27, 2008 - 06:25pm PT
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"The first essential is to persuade a climbing team to climb for the main purpose of being photographed"
John Cleare in Rock Climbers in Action in Snowdonia
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2008 - 03:07am PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 28, 2008 - 12:30pm PT
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Some of those pictures look like they oughtta have stories.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2008 - 02:38pm PT
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It's an old story, abridged here.
Sound track by Ravel in one version.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 28, 2008 - 09:10pm PT
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Pot O' Goldfish at the very minimum!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 29, 2008 - 11:17am PT
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One of my unrealized life goals was to go UK seacliff-climbing.
Back in reality, took the new SD 880 out for a walk on Thanksgiving. Nothing fancy,
just snapshots.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 29, 2008 - 12:12pm PT
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Plenty of seaside thrillers that I would love to sample myself!
Andy Meyers belaying Mick Fowler on the FA of Caveman, Berry Head E4,6a. Ian Parker photo.
From Mountain Jan/Feb 1983. A little taste of the Fowler side of life....
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Nov 29, 2008 - 04:04pm PT
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Out today on Exposure Explosion, Ogmore (South Wales).
Damp rock, milky sunshine, 5°C: cold fingers and numb toes.
This one even made the cover of 'Climbing' a while back.
Steve, I would be delighted to take you on a sea-cliff tour some time. You'd be on the sharp-end for the two routes you've chosen there though!
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2008 - 05:35pm PT
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good stuff
just snapshots?
I see colors and atmospheric improbabilities not currently available to local markets.
just mossy bearding today
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 29, 2008 - 10:59pm PT
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Nice shot Duncan! Better than the cover photo. I would love to take you up on the seaside adventure promotion! In the meantime armchair love ----> will just have to do.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 30, 2008 - 11:06am PT
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The UK stuff looks so cool.
My one experience there was a stormy day at Boulder Ruckle -- gale-force winds,
we learned later. Fortunately, Pete Debbage was game to climb anyway.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 30, 2008 - 02:18pm PT
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Where are we Naitch?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 30, 2008 - 04:02pm PT
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Naitch, your Ireland climbing looks beautiful and wild. The sloping-grass clifftops especially.
At Boulder Ruckle there's a trail. Very civilized, but even so I recall thinking that if
the wind knocked me over, I'd be dead.
You rap to a partly-dry talus pile at the base.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 30, 2008 - 04:07pm PT
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Those really sing, Naitch. Nice eye.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 30, 2008 - 07:28pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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So, my introduction to British seacliff climbing was to belay Pete Debbage leading
the first pitch of Vortices (E2/5c). Damp, sandy holds, small pro arranged carefully
behind fragile features, gale-force winds howling and waves thumping around me,
it felt more atmospheric than your average belay.
It was kind of what I'd imagined British seacliffs must be like.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I had anchored my belay, in hopes of not getting washed out to sea if a rogue wave hit.
Which seemed very possible. The huge boulder I was leaning against vibrated with
each strike, and occasionally larger waves came surging around both sides to soak my
feet.
So I was very relieved when Pete completed his lead and I could start climbing to get
away from the sea.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
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Ha! It's comin' t'getcha.
That rock looks friable, maybe even diseased, but definitely a different color than I am used to.
Going back to early Mountain issues, before the U.S. had a monthly climbing mag, I have long had a large imagined landscape of British sea cliffs, with whirling screaming sea birds, gaping caverns, and expletive non-deleting hardmen trying to out-sandbag each other.
At our secret beguilingly moody place we don't often get into that territory. With a little help from February, though, and from an ex-Scot and an ex-Brit:
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 05:39pm PT
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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So Andy, did you leave Robert on that little rock in the midst of the ocean? How did he get off it?
And here's a few related shots:
This one's from the same place as many of Andy's, but much earlier. The area was first explored in the mid-1980s, by climbers who swam there, and later figured out land access.
You can tell this one's from Squamish - note the log booms. Held together, as it happens, by a boom stick - there's a climb at Squamish called Boomstick Crack. I've often thought it would be nice to do a series of climbs at Squamish and name them for logging terms - Whistle Punk, Steam Donkey, etc.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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The sloping cave-stance between pitches of Vortices is one of those places I
think about whenever someone writes or says (as they often do), "I always place
at least two bombproof anchors!"
The guidebook promised a fixed peg here but that had fallen out of the wet, flared
sandy crack; Pete expertly arranged a spiderweb of other stuff instead, which
looked like it had no intention of holding the F2 fall that would certainly result
if a leader happened to go airborne while pulling the next roof.
"Uh, maybe you should lead this one too," I said unbravely.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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As we topped out, the sky darkened and the wind wound up. Pete understood that his
American visitor really had to lead something, so he pointed out an easier classic,
Finale Groove (HVS/4c).
Fortunately, this one wasn't scary. It even had a few fixed pegs behind wobbly blocks.
I clipped them all. When Pete came up he commented that he wouldn't have trusted
those, would have placed his own protection, but I sure didn't see where.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2008 - 10:24pm PT
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Anders, that was Tom of Irish parents and London upbringing, who on that occasion untied and 4th classed out the north end.
Thank you for the historical traverse photo. I think this is one of the pioneers:
And I just love this shot from Chiloe. The lighting is perfect.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Thanks. That shot above is my favorite, for the stormy mood of the day.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2008 - 01:23pm PT
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More accurately, the light is perfect. There are many other things to like about it, too. It looks like an unspoiled planet, for example. And it helps that it is a memento of an impressive day out.
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Me at the crux of Adair by the Sea in 1985 at low tide. Otter Cliff, Acadia National Park, Maine. Photo Karen Radakcovich, Casey Newman belayer.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Adair by the Sea is a good one, I should get back there next summer.
I know GOclimb has some fine Acadia slides, and no doubt other current & former
right-coasters do too.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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I've posted a couple from Acadia. I'll see if I can find any more good ones.
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Some from Great Head, maybe?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2008 - 06:17pm PT
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Thank you Rich Ross.
from the Pacific to the Atlantic
that is a good action shot that conveys honest feeling
I did that climb in '75 or '76.
This also has likely appeared elsewhere in this superemporium.
photo by Ken Nichols
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Rock Lobster, led on the FA but popular mainly as a (well-named) toprope,
on "the Northeast's only sea stack."
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Larry, that first Great Head pic (your wife?) is a great photo!
I looked, and sorry, I'm spent.
Too bad. In my opinion, you can never get too much great head.
GO
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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(your wife?)
Hah, no actually it's our daughter, at age 14. She had an adventurous childhood,
which is now continuing self-propelled.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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This is fun stuff!
Chiloe,
I agree with GO's remarks concerning that first photo.
The classic female approach is nicely showcased: no brawn, all finesse and poise.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2008 - 02:42pm PT
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Meanwhile, back at the ra...ouch! There is a seriously past-it phrase. Though Werner Herzog did resurrect the era in Encounters at the End of the World, in the course of suggesting that memory of humans will soon, say 10,000 years, exist mainly under the ice at the South Pole. Check out the frozen sturgeon.
Anyway, back on the Pacific side: sea stack bouldering on the Olympic Peninsula. Don't lose track of the tide, here.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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some from CA coast
[img]http://puffnattie.smugmug.com/photos/165109561-L.jpg
[/img]
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2008 - 03:52pm PT
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Ah, California, how is the weather there?
Where all the days are sunny,
And all the skies are fair
(unlike, say, Montreal)
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
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...a sense of wilderness and isolation persists; the sea is moody, the moorlands mysteriously conceal a wealth of prehistoric relics, the farms are remote, and the place names - Mousehole, Chair Ladder, Woon Gumpus, Brandy's Zawn and Ding Dong - are those of an enchanted, make-believe world. The moors are covered by gorse, the headlands by thrift, honeysuckle and blackberry; the beaches are sandy and pleasant, and over all hangs the aura of the ending of the land.
Frank Cannings in Mountain 15, May 1971
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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It's not all "Damp, sandy holds, small pro arranged carefully
behind fragile features, gale-force winds howling and waves thumping around me, ..."
Sometimes the sun shines (all picture taken today).
Unknown climber on Elysium, Boulder Ruckle.
Pete Debbage (see above) on Thunder Groove, Boulder Ruckle
Thunder Groove, pitch two.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Yeah, while it may seem unlikely, that photo of Jim is my personal favorite climbing photo of all time - it so evokes what it means to climb and lead.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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duncan, thanks for another view of Boulder Ruckle (and say hi to Pete for me).
On the day I was there we saw no other climbers -- I figured it wasn't always that brisk.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Another peaceful scene from Acadia (age 12).
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Speaking of all this, when was the first sea cliff climb? Would it have been the things that Crowley and Eckenstein did on the chalk cliffs at Dover in the 1890s? That is, Alesteir Crowley, and Oscar Eckenstein - the latter the father of bouldering, the crampon, etc? We might have to wrangle about what makes something a sea cliff climb, but I'd say starting at sea level, within spitting distance of the sea, would be a good start. Large rivers and lakes perhaps also acceptable.
Mick Fowler's stories of climbing at on the chalk cliffs in the 1980s and 1990s are classic.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Here is your answer in long form from Seacliff Climbing in Britain by John Cleare and Robin Collomb, 1973.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2008 - 10:18pm PT
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I see that Peter Biven calls A. W. Andrews, "the father of sea-cliff climbing", and Frank Cannings refers to him as, "the originator of Cornish climbing."
A. W. Andrews wrote: "The sea forms unique climbing surroundings and the weather is good. There are no long walks to the crags and there is no necessity to be miserable in order to feel that the sport is being suitably indulged."
We saw a little sun last Wednesday.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Ahhhhh, Swanage. Indeed, sometimes the sun shines. . . .
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Nick Buckley, trying the first ascent of a route near the far west end off the Swanage cliffs. Back around 1981.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 7, 2008 - 01:22pm PT
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Holy collapsing wave equation, Bartman!
Have crazy people tried to invent ways to experience that up close, like Project Grizzly or Niagara Falls in a barrel?
(nice pre-lycra 80s in the other)
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Crunch's wave makes our day at Ruckle look placid.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nice shots Crusher!
How about Joe Brown and the 25' dip at Gogarth!?! Never heard about that incident.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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This formation is called the Parson. It’s part of a pair of sea stacks called the Parson and Clerk, off the south coast of Devon. Most of the other tower, the Clerk, fell into the sea a few decades ago, so now it’s just the Parson, preaching to the waves.
This sea stack is near Teignmouth, a popular seaside resort, bustling with tourists, children and ice creams. To get close to the spire involves a long walk along a sandy beach crowded with dogs, frisbees and sunbathers. Right behind the beach is a railway line, the main line from London to the southwest of England, and every few minutes a train thunders by. At the far end of the beach, if the tide is low, and the sea is in a friendly mood, you can scramble around wave-blasted black rocks crusted with limpets, and find yourself in a different world.
The beach vanishes. Below, the fidgety sea burbles and sighs, slapping against the rocks. Above, unstable cliffs seep. The normal sounds—dogs, cell phones, cars, children, the background hum of civilization—are gone. Instead, there is a cacophony of screams, trills and squawks; sea gulls, cormorants, ancient birds, at home. They don’t like intruders.
The Parson was first climbed back in 1971 by Keith Darbyshire and Pete Biven. Darbyshire died a few years later, after slipping from the top of a sea cliff, from wet grassy slopes. He was a thatcher, a person who made the straw roofs on those cute picture postcard cottages.
The approach to actually get to the base of the Parson is through a sooty tunnel which carries those same express trains that have been rattling by every minute or so. Once inside the tunnel you run to a hole. To get to down the sea itself, there are some shenanigans involving lassoing a spike, a rusty old chain or some such. The climb, if you actually get on it, has three pitches. The middle pitch utilizes a feature referred to as the “Brown Spider.” Rumor has it that the last pitch, which ascends cobbles up the final spire, was protected on the first ascent by the judicious use of a kitchen knife stabbbed into the rock. The belay under this pitch has no anchor. The “descent” is a wild leap to the wet grassy slopes of the mainland.
Anyway, this is as close I have been. Anyone out there in Topoland been any closer?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 8, 2008 - 03:27am PT
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a story from the traverse, 2003
This year, since I work at night, I’ve been on the traverse more often than usual because it makes such an excellent evening destination. The setting sun blazes a path across the Strait of Georgia. The waves turn green and gold where the sun comes through them. The cliff and the water distance you from the residential neighborhood nearby. The only sounds are water and birds. The sky slowly loses its color.
There are some worries. I might get stung by a wasp. In some places a fall would probably break an ankle, at the least. Falling into the water could wash my glasses off despite the retainer. A fall into the water might not be good for the camera.
I’ve been trying to get some characteristic but unmistakably amateur pics of this traverse. After all, it’s low-key. No photo is too humble.
So there I am happily going by a tricky section when I reach out to a hold and notice that it’s occupied. My eyes open wider and the optics of this somehow magnify the already large enough spider sitting there. The color of the thing is a tick fever dream orange/yellow. That’s on the abdomen. The thorax, head, and legs are a stealth black so that even though I look real hard for movement I can’t see any reassuring fixity of outline in the shadow.
I know the spider doesn’t want to do anything to me but that is only the weak voice of reason. Nearness to spider overcomes reason. I have an irrational aversion to spiders near my face. I recognize this beast as a jumping spider and they have a disconcerting way of seeming to teleport from one location to another.
Then I notice that this cute furry predator has in its fangs another sort of spider, about the same size as itself. Thank goodness supper has stopped wriggling or I would have been truly freaked. There is something about spiders and their legs and the way they move that gives me the willies. I’m glad I didn’t arrive for the death throes.
Well, now, I’ve always wondered about spider-on-spider predation. I’ve heard that there are no vegetarian spiders, and I think that the young sometimes eat each other, and that black widow thing, but I don’t think too many spiders specialize in eating other spiders. Anyway, I had to capture the moment, and I had my camera with me.
My brain is usually taxed to capacity just trying to climb the rock, but here is what I had to do, now: make sure my feet were at the proper angle (holds were sloping), use the only handhold outside the spider-affected radius as either jam or layback (alternately so as not to overtire the muscles), get the camera out, get the lens cap off then back on, push the right buttons and try to get enough distance so that focus would work, keep enough attention on the spider so as to notice any threatening moves (a digital camera viewfinder has poor resolution).
Like Mark Twight recommends, I put everything I had and everything I am into the effort.
Oh yeah, I truly didn’t want to fall off. I didn’t have brainpower left over at the time to analyze the possibilities of the situation. With hindsight I see myself get stung, pitch off, smash an ankle, plunge into the water, $300 bifocals sinking, and a trail of blood attracting the nearest shark. On the plus side would be losing the camera.
The crack under the spiders is finger size, about 1-1.5 cm.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Now that's a pair of great seacliff stories and photos, Crunch & MH2. Both kinda
cosmic, in very different ways.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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A couple of St. John's climbers took me out cragging at Flat Rock, which sits on
a sloping rock shelf overlooking deep water.
They told about climbing there one day while a whale surfaced and splashed around
below them. I didn't see that, but wished I had.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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A few more shots from Flat Rock, Newfoundland. I think the route is Yellow Fever.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Finally measured it out - the cliff featured in many of Andy's photos (the "traverse") is about 11 km as the ladybug flies from where I live. Assuming that ladybugs are OK flying that distance over salt water, that is.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 11, 2008 - 08:59am PT
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Is there still some life in this theme? I hope so, it's the dark season where I live.
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 11, 2008 - 09:47am PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 11, 2008 - 10:55am PT
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Todd, where are those? Any story?
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perswig
climber
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Dec 11, 2008 - 11:11am PT
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Yeah, Todd. The scale of the first pic - whoa!
Larry, would you be willing to ID the Newfie location re: neighboring town/park/whatnot? (God, it is bleak around here, isn't it? I bouldered a Farnsworth stone outbuilding in the sleet this morning - desperation, me thinks. Edit - does intown Rockland still count as by the sea?)
Dale
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Dec 11, 2008 - 11:12am PT
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Top photo;...Dream of White Horses, Wales.....on or near my 21st birthday.......bottom pic is not REALLY the ocean....it's in Minnesoda N. Shore, above Deluth, Lake Superior..............
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 11, 2008 - 11:24am PT
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Perswig, Flat Rock (I should have written Flatrock) is a local crag, a few miles
up the coast from St. John's. Here's a page with how-to-get-there beta.
http://www.infonet.st-johns.nf.ca/eecc/flatrock.html
I just visited for one day; I'm sure Newfoundland climbers could fill you in on
the routes. The last of my photos is below. I think this is on what the EECC
page calls the "Big Wall" section of the cliff.
Some other photos are on Rockclimbing.com.
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Petch
Gym climber
Lover's Leap
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Dec 11, 2008 - 11:28am PT
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The best Cali has to offer.
Seductive Mermaid 10c
Footsteps rock
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Dec 11, 2008 - 11:59am PT
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Todd, you've got your Dream reversed.
(not my photo)
We'll allow Lake Michigan as your lakes are probably bigger than our seas!
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Dec 11, 2008 - 12:22pm PT
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Dream on. Another picture form a previous lifetime. Ogmore, in south Wales, is steep, frightening and the tides go up and down by twenty feet or so, twice a day.
On this day, I made the mistake of letting my friend Howard lead. You can see him, in red, belaying at the top of the cliff. And that's me, just above the waves. Pic from about 1978 I think.
Edit: Actually both figures are almost impossible to see, sorry. Let's try this:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 11, 2008 - 12:27pm PT
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Petch, is that Mickey's Beach? How do the newer Cali seaside areas compare?
Crunch's last picture, in which I can't make out the alleged climbers, reminds me
of a definition I read somewhere that said true seacliff climbing had to take
account of conditions on the sea. The British cliffs really exemplify that idea
(no doubt it was a British definition).
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Dec 11, 2008 - 12:46pm PT
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Skeleton Ridge, Isle of Wight.
The best line in England? It's chalk but fairly hard as chalk goes, so climbs with rock gear rather than ice tools.
It's a great day out, someone into the softer desert sandstones would enjoy it a lot.
The last few feet of the top pitch, close enough to start grand-standing.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 11, 2008 - 12:52pm PT
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Wow, what are the logistics of Skeleton Ridge? You got more photos?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 12, 2008 - 12:27am PT
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Life by the sea is one of the themes in a tentative queue I had in mind before starting, so yes there is life in this theme, and that theme within the other theme has been greenlit by what could have been an eagle over the Parson and the whales surfacing at Flatrock. And the mention of spider.
As long as there is potentially shining water under the cliff I don't think it matters whether the water is sea or not. The body of water I climb near is either a strait or an inlet depending on which direction you are looking in.
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Dec 12, 2008 - 04:15am PT
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Chiloe,
No more photos I’m afraid.
Ian Parnell has some good ones here:
http://www.ianparnell.com/Html/Gallery%20Pro.htm
and here:
http://lightbox.alpineexposures.com/rock-climbing/page/3/
Trip report:
http://www.sandrock.org.uk/Articles/skeletonridge.htm
There is an account of the first ascent by Mick Fowler in Alpinist 25.
Getting on the route involves abseiling 250’ or so down the grassy slope to the beach you can see in the top photo in post 139, to the right of the ridge as you look at it. Then it’s a sea-level traverse to the tip of the ridge, assuming you got the tides right and the waves are not that big. Some dampness is inevitable. Once you’re on the ridge there are five or six pitches of mostly very straight-forward Alpine 5.4-5.6. There are a couple of harder sections and, satisfyingly, the final tower is the crux. Or it was when we did it five years ago, the nature of the route is that large chunks fall off from time-to-time so it could all be different now!
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2008 - 03:58am PT
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Another seaside theme is the people who go there. A large gallery of eminent persons may eventually appear but for now consider this mild-mannered architect (foreground) who is at present between 82 and 83 degrees S on route to visit the frozen sturgeon at Amundsen Scott.
Meanwhile, back at the forest primeval,
Another non-climber user. These are rare.
Then there is the swimmer. He visits quite often. I’ve spoken to him and he has a job and all, he just likes the quiet and solitude.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2008 - 03:02pm PT
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Down to the sea in ships, and boats, and other craft
but first establishing that pictures were taken climbing
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2008 - 05:04pm PT
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Vancouver sends about 3 cruise ships a day up to Alaska. At least on Fridays. In the summer.
A few take a wrong turn.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 19, 2008 - 06:16pm PT
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Some boaters don't go as far as Alaska looking for a good time.
They are usually quite friendly to climbers.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 26, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
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shouldering once more the burden of a too extensive image catalog from a climbing area of indeterminate extent and place
Other Craft
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2008 - 12:02am PT
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Other Other Craft
where some of the money goes and maybe comes from
my hovercraft is full of eels
where did this come from?
low on the human marine food chain, a log salvage operator
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 27, 2008 - 12:55am PT
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Ah, we're seeing hints of that "world-class quantity"!
Cool set.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 27, 2008 - 01:03pm PT
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Ah, we're seeing hints of that "world-class quantity"!
Well, I am talking about a sea, here.
Robert N.
Neil B.
Robin B.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 27, 2008 - 02:27pm PT
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A little Henry by the sea....Climbing 56 Sept/Oct 1979.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Dec 27, 2008 - 07:50pm PT
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Always wanted to climb Mousetrap one day.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Dec 28, 2008 - 01:38pm PT
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How difficult is it?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 28, 2008 - 04:13pm PT
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Mousetrap is Hard Very Severe. The cliff should be avoided during the nesting season (Feb - Aug).
Hard Rock indicates 3 cruxes: 4c, 4c, and 5a
I think that means 5.9/5.10
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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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Dec 28, 2008 - 08:11pm PT
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How bout a cold one
Located at the eastern most point in the US. Hide tide prevents the column from touching down. This rock wall is where Spiderman Dan claimed the first 5.14 in the US in the early 80's
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COT
climber
Door Number 3
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Dec 28, 2008 - 08:15pm PT
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Otter Cliffs, ME
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 29, 2008 - 01:19am PT
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How bout a cold one
How bout those are very fine
and they remind me of a highly photogenic kind of by-the-sea climbing
I don't have an example of my own. The picture is by Chuck Gates, the climber is Alex Lowe.
Coincidentally, that issue of Climbing had a short article on Mount Desert Island. This picture was said to be Tyler Stableford and Kevin Hand on Green Mountain Power, photographer Peter Cole.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Dec 29, 2008 - 01:09pm PT
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Cali "secret" spot- not any more in the internet age!!!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Anyone done the Devil's Slide? This has always looked like a slab climbers dream! John Cleare photos from Mountains, 1975. Scuze the grain....
Need a little surf Murry?
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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I've never done a sea cliff climb, what about all the bird sh#t? Most rocks I've seen (morro rock for example) is covered in the stuff. None in any of the photos?
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Several varieties are fond of dive puking climbers by some accounts.
Ever climbed at Murry's Beach, Mickey?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Seashell in the frozen sand today:
I've never seen the Atlantic more calm.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 3, 2009 - 07:04pm PT
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I've never done a sea cliff climb, what about all the bird sh#t?
Thanks for the surf picture - soothing yet energizing, too. It is a cousin of a family of pictures I really like, where there is some everyday ordinary peaceful scene in the foreground, in this case the boat, and something a little crazy in the distance, in this case the wave.
As to bird sh#t, there is a little on the traverse I do. If I find or get a good picture, it will show up here, don't worry.
To get sea cliffs covered in bird sh#t, which do exist, you need sea birds that nest on the cliffs, lots of them. The British sea cliff afficionados also tell us about the gannet, a bird that defends its nest by up-chucking mackerel eye-ball soup on anything approaching from below.
I haven't been on scene for that or for a "sea-bird defecating from the top-most pinnacle", another British sea cliff thing, but I have had a grebe launch explosively into flight from a dark crevice over my head, and it put the pigeon experience to shame.
Also, on the traverse I like so much, or maybe its just the convenience, I was once innocently zooming along across territory intimately familiar, when my hand came down on something icky. On closer look it seemed to be something a sea gull had tried to digest and failed. Perhaps a starfish stomach. It had the lowest coefficient of friction I've ever encountered, waaay below teflon, ice, and snot. Combined. Just getting it on my fingers would make me fall down, even in the middle of Nebraska.
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TLloyd-Davies
Social climber
Santa Clara, ca
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Well, it really is hard to beat California weather. Even Northern California
Pebble Wrestlers
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Been going for lots of walks by the shining sea with our dog lately. Yesterday:
It's been brisk along the Gulf of Maine.
But I can remember warmer times along a different sea last year.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2009 - 11:30am PT
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Wonderful pictures. They stimulate and leave room for the imagination.
California, again, I presume, from the Life Magazine photo collection:
actress Carloe Landis climbing on the rocks near the ocean at the beach
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2009 - 01:18pm PT
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down to the sea again
evening sun Jan 02
big wave Jan 08
fog Jan 16 (and several days before and after)
traverse Jan 19 (grim)
above it all Jan 15
guarding its secret Jan 15
indoors Jan 15
above the clouds again Jan 17
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 25, 2009 - 01:29pm PT
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January 15th looks familiar!
We should start a thread about nonplussed gym counter people... no one ever asks "You're from California? what are you doing here?"
Maybe it's just very common. It was fun pulling on plastic and meeting some of the Vancouver afficionados, MH2 being one. But we didn't encounter any Ladybugs, as far as I know. But it does give me an idea...
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 25, 2009 - 01:45pm PT
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January 15th looks familiar
I guess they have fog in San Francisco, too?
down to the sea in shoes
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Jan 25, 2009 - 01:50pm PT
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...fog? you mean summer...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 25, 2009 - 05:30pm PT
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Around this time of year, I think more about oceans. But not the British or Canadian ones.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2009 - 03:24am PT
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^^^^^^ a rosy cheerful picture with not much chance for the subject to look self-conscious
Around this time of year, I think more about oceans. But not the British or Canadian ones.
A while ago I was googling for "frozen seas" to find who had said that writing breaks the frozen seas within (Kafka, not Dostoevsky (or vice versa)), and Mars showed up. I'd scavenged a bunch of Mars photos for a project and one of them had looked a lot like pack ice with a dirt coating.
So what oceans do you think more about, this time of year?
Tami, it is a Grouse raven. Thanks for mentioning the guy on the stairs. I saw him at the gym this afternoon and my first thought was, "Do I know him?" Until I remembered taking the picture.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 26, 2009 - 10:29am PT
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So what oceans do you think more about, this time of year?
Blue tropical ones with hundred-plus viz, dark walls falling into the deep, reef squid
or big manta rays flapping their wings just out of reach.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 26, 2009 - 12:23pm PT
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I'd scavenged a bunch of Mars photos for a project
What project had you scavenging Mars photos?
I know someone who filled all the floors and table space in his basement with the
highest-quality large prints of Magellan radar imagery from Venus. And this had
to do with oceans.
His theory was that current orthodoxy is wrong. Venusian scientists conventionally
interpret thousands of roughly circular depressions covering the surface of Venus
as being signs of endogenous processes -- mantle upwellings or downwellings, of a
type seen nowhere else in the known universe. They argue thus because some of
those circular depressions don't have the same form as impact craters, which do
account for the circular depressions found on other planets and moons.
Here's where the shining sea comes in. My friend's theory is that the Venusian
landforms that don't look exactly like craters really are craters after all -- but
ones from meteorites striking the seas of an earlier Venus.
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Jan 26, 2009 - 01:01pm PT
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Back to planet earth, the ladybug detector is twitching and trembling. What creature is it in the upper right hand corner of the photo that MH2 posted on January 25th? Is it the elusive, shy West Vancouver winter ladybug?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2009 - 05:13pm PT
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Is it the elusive, shy West Vancouver winter ladybug?
Alas, no. By the miracle of photography it is a brassy summer leftover, recorded in the log as Ladybug #3.
Back to outer space.
Is there a more proper term than 'Venusian scientists', like selenogist for those who study Lunar geology?
I took a geology class taught by Tim Mutch. He wrote a book about the Moon, then transferred his attention to Mars. He also climbed at the Gunks in the 50s and has a first ascent or two with Jim McCarthy. He told me that Mars had a kind of terrain, called chaotic, that had no close counterpart elsewhere. That was back in 70/71.
Tim Mutch was director of the team that designed and built the first camera that was landed on Mars.
My Mars project was just a brief re-surfacing of youthful fascination with the Red Planet, but with updated images, in two parts: The Best of Times/My Luv is like a Red Red Rose/Nicky Spence and The Worst of Times/The Eternal/Joy Division.
Much better really to think about the deep blue oceans with
life in them.
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Jan 26, 2009 - 05:53pm PT
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Looking at the Chugach Mountains from Montague Island
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 26, 2009 - 06:47pm PT
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Is there a more proper term than 'Venusian scientists', like selenogist for those
who study Lunar geology?
A word exists, cytherology, but it hasn't gained any traction. "Planetary geology"
might seem like a wrong term, but it's widely understood.
Or "Venusian plumology" is a vaguely pejorative term for the orthodox school of thought
on this topic.
Whatever you call it, the field sits in darkness without much new data, compared with
sexier Mars or the Jupiter/Saturn moons.
I was reading an article today about which would be more exciting (deserves the next
space probe), Jupiter's Europa or Saturn's Titan. And in keeping with this thread
topic, the attractions of both are their seas.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 26, 2009 - 11:49pm PT
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THE CHUGACH!
Thanks for that. A nicely mysterious view of them, too.
I had a roomie in Chicago who moved to Anchorage. Or wanted to. I think he had to get through law school in Florida, first. He planned on doing Law of the Sea, a big issue back in the 70s and perhaps still.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2009 - 12:16am PT
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^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^ ^
Cythera/Kytheria on a strange shore
Cythera or Kytheria. Do they both start with a "kuh" sound?
Dean H.
Randy A.(fore) and Liam H.(back)
John from Boulder and Greg F.
Well-known Coast Mountains authority and Waddington guidebook author Don S.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jan 27, 2009 - 10:27am PT
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Cythera/Kytheria on a strange shore
Cythera or Kytheria. Do they both start with a "kuh" sound?
Or Cytherea. For that picture I'd go with the soft c.
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
b.c.c
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Jan 27, 2009 - 12:07pm PT
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Jan 27, 2009 - 02:41pm PT
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Steve said "Anyone done the Devil's Slide? "
I visited Lundy for the first time this summer and it's a magical place. I deliberately didn't do the Devil's Slide itself as I want to have an excuse to come back. It's about 5.5 and I'm leaving it 'til I'm 75 (goats have been seen to solo the crux, a friction traverse, a 400' slide if they get it wrong). We did do Albion (the corner with the black streaks coming out of it), a fine 5.7 and The Shark 5.9, left again,overlooking the slab. There is a very fine-looking 5.7X right up the middle called Satan's Slip which I didn't get round to doing. Not many photos as it was overcast and grey most of the time, but here is one of a little new line we did. There are not many places in the UK you can still climb quality new 5.7s.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 2, 2009 - 07:12pm PT
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Last Saturday January 31
the shining sea below
a separate reality above
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Whacking golf balls into the sea has small enough impacts in the greater scheme of things,
except for some hapless sea creatures who might try to eat them.
Somehow the sheer casualness of the action reminded me of Jeremy Jackson's provocative research
(with emphasis added, below).
The biology of the ocean is very rapidly changing state from complex to simple, from 3-dimemnsional
to 2-dimensional, from heterogeneous to homogeneous, from food chains capped by large vertebrates
to those capped by small invertebrates, and by explosive increases in microbial biomass. The
human drivers are overfishing, pollution, introduced species, aquaculture, and climate change --
probably in that order of importance historically if not actually. Rates of change are accelerating
and may be difficult to reverse. The rise of jellyfish and bacteria and demise of animals
effectively erase half a billion years of Phanerozoic evolution, taking us back to the
latest Precambrian before the explosion of metazoan life. What kinds of species will dominate
the ocean? What are the most likely future scenarios, and what are the implications for our use of
the oceans and our way of life? Fishers have found good markets for the jellyfish, but not yet for
the bacteria. Do we even want to try?
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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But on a cheerfuller note, and on topic:
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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A Dare by the Sea,Otter Cliff,Acadia National Park,Maine.1985 Photos by Geoff Ohland.
There is another photo upthread taken from above by our friend Karen.
I got these today after being contacted through Supertopo by my old friend Geoff.
Harry Ohland more recently.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
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Bacteria and jellyfish, he says? I guess there would still be a lot of these around, too.
I just heard on the radio about Google Oceans. "You can follow Great White sharks as they swim around Vancouver Island."
Yikes! I hope they keep their distance from my side of the strait.
A purely irrational fear, of course. Unlike fear of oceans in trouble.
This summer one of these
floated under me
and I worried what it might do to me if I fell on it.
Irrational fear.
Another time this summer I met Randy Atkinson, picture upthread, out on the traverse and he talked for a while about how much more sea life used to to be evident there not too many years ago.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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richross, I think A Dare has gone back on my do-list for summer. Been a long time since I climbed it.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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MH2, as for jellyfish, including giant poisonous ones so numerous they kill all the fish
and smother the beach ... I heard a lot about them last fall at a meeting of the North Pacific
Marine Science Organization. One phrase that stuck in my mind:
"The current era of jellyfish ascendancy"
No one mentioned Jackson's "Brave New Ocean" thesis, but in data-rich paper after paper,
there it was.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Here's my best jellyfish, but it's not having a good day.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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hey there ... wow, lots of neat stuff going on over here.... will take me awhile to soak it all in...
great share, chiloe and guys thanks...
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 3, 2009 - 11:35pm PT
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That is one evil-looking jellyfish.
Although shucking golf balls into the marine ecosystem may be disquieting,
let's not make the golfer our poster-girl enemy, lest we lose the fight.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Naw, nothing against her. Just reminded me that the oceans are where it all goes.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 04:29am PT
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Gulls are marvels of the seaside.
Anything that would eat a starfish raw would have to be.
Where seabirds like to park on the traverse. And egest bits of starfish. Don’t step on those.
My only sea otter picture. Taken with the more expendable camera, as in the birdlime example above.
I got into what, if it were in Britain and a whole lot bigger, would be a zawn.
There was something sinister-looking below the tide line but it wasn’t hostile.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Let's sea...
Norwegian Sea:
Labrador Sea:
Yellow Sea:
Anybody got some more?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 05:52pm PT
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Good stuff.
Today those pictures happen to recall what I felt like as an 8-year old heading out the door in the early morning.
To look beyond the houses.
To find ponds, turtles, snakes, or a new mystery like the clear-wing moth.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Distant mountains of North Africa, brooding on the horizon at sunset, across the Mediterranean Sea.
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perswig
climber
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Posted on another thread, but more appropo here, maybe...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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^^^ The Gulf of Maine, I'll wager.
And the Chukchi Sea:
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Just down the coast from MH2's favorite traverse
And then this is quite a bit the other way, towards Squamish
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Seal Cove in that last shot, right? I think I've actuall seen seals there almost every visit. Beautiful spot at day's end.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 4, 2009 - 10:28pm PT
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Beautiful spot at day's end.
My thanks to all who have made such far-ranging and often spectacular contributions to this small corner of the Taco.
I sometimes worry whether I may have devoted too much attention to a piece of rock only 25 feet long.
It does however, when all is said and done, at the end of the day, offer a good view over the water.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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My thanks to all who have made such far-ranging and often spectacular contributions to
this small corner of the Taco.
Well we need threads now and then that range far from California granite. Some of us, anyhow.
From cold Greenland Sea waters,
to the warm Adriatic,
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 5, 2009 - 03:09pm PT
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Ah for a dry climate and a dark blue sea. What are those inclusions in the Adriatic?
From the other hemisphere
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Ah for a dry climate and a dark blue sea. What are those inclusions in the Adriatic?
Mariculture. They're raising mussels, I think, on long ropes descending from floating barrels.
As seem in the vicinity of Mali Ston, Croatia.
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perswig
climber
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I was picturing a 'hundred billion bottles washed up on the shore' ala the Police. Whole lotta angst in the world, you know...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Let me sail, let me sail, let the Orinoco flow,
Let me reach, let me beach on the shores of Tripoli.
Let me sail, let me sail, let me crash upon your shore,
Let me reach, let me beach far beyond the Yellow Sea.
From Bissau to Palau - in the shade of Avalon,
From Fiji to Tiree and the Isles of Ebony,
From Peru to Cebu hear the power of Babylon,
From Bali to Cali - far beneath the Coral Sea.
From the North to the South, Ebudae into Khartoum,
From the deep sea of Clouds to the island of the moon,
Carry me on the waves to the lands I've never been,
Carry me on the waves to the lands I've never seen.
 Enya, "Orinoco Flow"
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 03:21pm PT
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Loose-fitting woolen headgear.
Not sleek or fashionable and not often seen in the sex sells type of ad campaign,
but has its place in damp cool climates.
Loose woolen headgear showed me a dark side a few days ago.
I was out over the water strung between crimps when my cap slipped down over one eye.
I couldn't see where to place the all-important next foot
and I couldn't take a hand off to undo the sabotage.
A balaclava on the first ascent of Mousetrap - from The Hard Years (Joe Brown)
Joe again.
me just before the malfunction
my audience/ spotter
the same location as illustrated in Squamish Bouldering by Marc Bourdon and Scott Tasaka
Christian H heading up a section of the traverse in warm weather
same location, this Feb 8, looking down from where Christian is seen above
audience for Feb 8
Ring of Bright Water
the book
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Feb 12, 2009 - 03:33pm PT
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Fabulous thread!
-JelloJonesingToAgainBeFreeAboveTheShiningSea
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scuffy b
climber
just below the San Andreas
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Feb 12, 2009 - 04:00pm PT
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Ring of Bright Water
Thanks for the reminder. Did you ever read his book about the
Reed people (Tigris/Euphrates marsh)?
I can't tell about your audience: river otter? Mink?
Also, the audience in the water?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 12, 2009 - 05:04pm PT
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Did you ever read his book about the
Reed people (Tigris/Euphrates marsh)?
No but I'm gonna get it from the Library.
I can't tell about your audience: river otter? Mink?
Also, the audience in the water?
The critter under the rock looked a lot like one Dick Cilley and I saw on the way in to the Upper Town Wall of Index one day, as he was telling me about Tobacco Road. First I thought weasel or mink. However, after a lengthy behind-cover assessment of me the fur coat suddenly appeared down at the water's edge, and even though my camera is fast all I got was a thin streak of bubbles rising to the surface in the wake of the torpedo.
Sea otter audience in both shots I'm guessing.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 12, 2009 - 05:18pm PT
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It's good to sea this thread splashing onwards.
Bering Sea:
Barents Sea:
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Feb 12, 2009 - 05:28pm PT
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"The Marsh Arabs", by Sir Wilfred Thesiger.
A fascinating and long-lived man, and traveler. He journeyed all over Africa, southwest Asia, and central Asia, from the 1930s to the 1990s.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wilfred_Thesiger
Eric Newby's classic tale "A Short Walk in the Hindu Kush" tells of meeting the formidable Thesiger in Nuristan, in east Afghanistan, after a month-long expedition there in 1956. They camped together one night, and Newby and his partner blew up their air mattresses. Thesiger's comment? "God, you must be a couple of pansies." The very end of the book.
There are some other good books about the Marsh Arabs, who were badly affected by the tyranny of Saddam Hussein, and the aftermath of the first Gulf War.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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Great to sea the ice, Chiloe, from a distance.
Anders, the Thesiger Marsh Arabs book was on the shelf near to Gavin Maxwell's A Reed Shaken by the Wind but having already read Thesiger's Arabian Sands I passed it up for now. Wilfred "If I never see another date in my life it will be too soon." Thesiger. One of the less expected hardships of crossing the Empty Quarter on camel. Thesiger introduced Gavin Maxwell to the reed-dwellers, I see.
A brief book digression in relation to Chiloe's second picture above. I am running only on memory, here, so the actual passage may differ from what follows. I think that the attitude illustrated has been adopted by pretty good climbers I've known.
**
Gavin Maxwell is on the ferry or whatever boat takes him to the island 'in a remote corner of the British Isles' where he and his otter friend live. He has been working on his nautical skills, such as navigation. He believes he knows where on the chart the ship is at the moment and where it is headed. He brings his finding to the attention of the captain. The captain looks at the chart, considers the situation and says, "Well if those are what I think they are, which is fly-specks, then we're right as rain, but if they're rocks we're pluggered for sure."
***
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 13, 2009 - 08:06am PT
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but if they're rocks we're pluggered for sure."
I laughed. Then wondered, is "pluggered" oneathem Brit euphemisms?
Heading farther out to sea but still with a cold-water bearing, ever read Rockwell Kent's
wonderful N by E (1930), about sailing to Greenland?
http://www.amazon.com/N-E-Rockwell-Kent/dp/0819552925
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 13, 2009 - 11:17am PT
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It is derived from plooked and buggered>>>>>>>>pluggered!!!
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 13, 2009 - 02:28pm PT
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2009 - 03:28pm PT
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What? Not even a toque?
Nice picture anyway, klk.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 14, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
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A little advertising by the sea!!LOL
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 14, 2009 - 12:50pm PT
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A little advertising by the sea!
As that image came down over dial-up, I knew that Gratton would follow Super as night follows day. Once when living in Chicago I mail-ordered EBs from Britain for less, all charges included, than they cost in the local climbing shop (Erewhon).
But why the Hell did they include that kelp or seaweed that give the wrong friction message?
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 15, 2009 - 02:24am PT
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Super Gratton -- I'd forgotten that was the full name of the shoe. And for a bit more trivia, what was the full name for which EB is the initials?
But back to the seaside. Or, almost to the sea. The water in this picture has only a few hundred meters left in its journey from the peaks to the sea.
Bouldering above the kelp.
Our ship coming in.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 15, 2009 - 11:07am PT
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One of my favorite places over the years.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 15, 2009 - 12:02pm PT
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That would be Ellis Bringham's Ego Boosters!
Gratton means "hold" in French, incidentally.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 15, 2009 - 12:18pm PT
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Edmond Bourdonneau.
But Pierre Allain and his fellow Bleausards actually began gluing truck tire rubber to the bottoms of their canvas high-top tennis shoes. Thta was the original model that Bourdonneau followed.
Here's a pair of late '70s EBs doing what they did best:
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Feb 15, 2009 - 02:03pm PT
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You sure it's Edmond? I always thought it was Edourd.
D
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Feb 15, 2009 - 02:13pm PT
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I had always seen "Edouard" in print, but EB's web history says, "Edmond." Maybe it was one on the baptismal papers and another at the crags.
http://www.eb-france.com/historique.htm
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 16, 2009 - 11:28am PT
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What, you've seen enough of the Bering and Barents Seas? Here's a different one
(with fortunately no surf).
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 16, 2009 - 11:56am PT
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Enough with the decadent sun-splashed beaches! All I can think of are all the things beneath the waves which can do me harm and all the trouble I can into above the sea level.
Here's some proper beach shots: mid-November, balmy mid-40's. Alas it was sunny, you can't have it all. Sorry I don't have any shots of the scarier routes on Gogarth and the Red Wall. They were too scary to lug a Nikon up.
Dream
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 16, 2009 - 12:34pm PT
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Great shots, Reilly. Invigorating conditions, not like these:
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pip the dog
Mountain climber
the outer bitterroots
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Feb 16, 2009 - 02:09pm PT
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yeow, this thread just keeps getting better and better.
where waves hit crags, what could be better than that. better than sex. (ok, what little sex i can afford).
^,,^
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Feb 16, 2009 - 02:17pm PT
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chiloe "fortunely no surf" what's wrong with a few waves!!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Feb 16, 2009 - 03:21pm PT
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what's wrong with a few waves!
Hah, take a walk on the ironshore!
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Feb 16, 2009 - 04:35pm PT
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Not technically a sea, but climbable rock on the sea shore. Hopefully this summer I'll get out there.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 16, 2009 - 09:03pm PT
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I know this isn't religion or politics but we were looking for climbing! We sailed out of Seward looking for booty and wenches, uh, in addition to climbing.
Cap'n Piss Gums scans the main
Note the Carman 60/40 jacket!
Not much climbing here
Ahoy! Oops, it is already spoken for and I've a strong aversion to being barfed upon by rabid seabirds.
As you were maties!
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 04:34am PT
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If I had a ship,
I'd sail my ship,
I'd sail my ship
Through Eastern seas;
Down to a beach where the slow waves thunder-
The green curls over and the white falls under-
Boom! Boom! Boom!
On the sun-bright sand.
Then I'd leave my ship and I'd land,
And climb the steep white sand.
Face to the cliff as the stones patter down,
Up, up, up, staggering and stumbling,
Round the corner where the rock is crumbling,
Round this shoulder,
Over this boulder,
Excerpts from an A.A.Milne poem
Reilly, even your pictures tell good stories.
I got a feeling I know what this guy is thinking.
And this one says a lot about time and place. The rock seems to be mirroring reflective caustics from the sea. (Using my new vocabulary word in a sentence.)
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2009 - 04:45am PT
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and on the subject of boats, a little thread drift
this was on a tree on the way to The Traverse
Six-year old nails Supertopo parody?
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tolman_paul
Trad climber
Anchorage, AK
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Feb 17, 2009 - 12:24pm PT
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Tami,
A friend took that picture, so I don't know how the flies were. I do know that mosquitos really don't bother me, but I hate those @&#!!! flies and no see ems with a passion.
I did take our boat to the bay just on the other side of that formation, and the bugs on July 4th were annoying but not intolerable. I'd imagine August would be the magic month for bugginess.
Hopefully I'll get a chance to climb this thing this summer.
and looking closer at the important bit
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richross
Trad climber
gunks,ny
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Feb 24, 2009 - 05:19pm PT
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Boating around Camden, Maine 1985.
Geoff Ohland at the wheel.
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perswig
climber
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Feb 24, 2009 - 06:03pm PT
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Looks like Wayfarer Marine in the background.
Local ME boating/climbing tie-in: The Getchells were in on FAs of hard ice climbs in the Camden area and also produced a number of books on building and maintaining outboard runabouts and cruisers.
Dale
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 24, 2009 - 11:07pm PT
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For surf and the Country of the Pointed Firs
For our friend who climbs ice by the water
And for the handy uses of octuplets
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Reilly
Mountain climber
Monrovia, CA
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Feb 24, 2009 - 11:33pm PT
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MH2,
Please translate: "The rock seems to be mirroring reflective caustics from the sea."
You must be some kind of anthropologist or something of that ilk that uses coded messages to throw off the enemy.
Simple Reilly
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 25, 2009 - 02:49am PT
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Not an anthropologist, just a guy who when he tries to say stuff shoots himself in the foot a lot.
Caustics is a word from the Word of the Day thread. It has more than one meaning, but I think it is used to describe
a certain kind of light pattern caused by refraction(bending) and/or reflection.
Two examples:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 21, 2009 - 08:48pm PT
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Jim Estabrook kindly shared this fine photo. I thought of posting it to the "Climbing with daughters"
thread, but in mood it seems more fitting here.
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east side underground
Trad climber
Hilton crk,ca
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Mar 21, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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MH2- thanks for the photo of the "green room", I needed that! If you never have visited (the green room ) it's a special place!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 21, 2009 - 08:55pm PT
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I'd swear that in that last photo, the person was IN the sea, not just BY the sea. But then it may be part of the territory. I've seen some good plunges off the traverse, and tides and waves are always a concern.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2009 - 12:11am PT
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Ah, the green room. Such a still, quiet phrase for an everchanging place. The mind holds the moment, though.
By the sea, above the sea, under/in the sea, as long as it looks good. I think it was a Chiloe under-sea thread where a dentist posted up some great creature pictures.
But we can have it both ways here, Mighty Hiker:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 22, 2009 - 10:39am PT
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But we can have it both ways here, Mighty Hiker:
Indeed, the same daughter diving the Rhone wreck above appeared earlier upthread
as a young seacliff climber.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 22, 2009 - 11:27am PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 22, 2009 - 11:39am PT
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The Octopus Who Knows That His Good Luck Has Run Out.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 23, 2009 - 05:08pm PT
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A friend living near Trondheim, Norway, wrote recently to ask whether I thought that
these fjord cliffs might hold any attraction for climbers. The apparent potential for
deep-water traversing reminds me of the traverse we've seen so much of, upthread.
But I think these might be unclimbed.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 23, 2009 - 07:15pm PT
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 23, 2009 - 07:32pm PT
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 24, 2009 - 04:10am PT
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It looks worth looking into. I think I would do a dive, first. I'm wondering if a flying saucer DUI bounced off that wall into the water. Or maybe Anders has a story about a Norse God battle-axe, though the gash has a recent feel to it.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Mar 24, 2009 - 10:26am PT
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So I referred MH2's speculation to Oddmund, and he accounts for the white section as follows:
"I believe the white spot is either some calsium leaking out from the cliff or the excrements
from large birds, or a combination.. Perhaps the overhang is attractive for birds. We went
quite close and the white stuff was hard as a rock. And we saw no cliffs sticking out for the
next ten meters under the surface. Ebb-tide difference is about 3 meters."
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Mar 29, 2009 - 08:17pm PT
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bump
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 31, 2009 - 06:55pm PT
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The desert outside Vegas was dry. Vancouver is not.
Up the Grind
Through the forest primeval
The Traverse
Cold salt water
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mooser
Trad climber
seattle
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Mar 31, 2009 - 07:05pm PT
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 1, 2009 - 01:42am PT
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The tail end of March 2009
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 14, 2009 - 04:40am PT
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Through the forest primeval, bearded in moss
One of my traverse buddies, "Tetra" (G)natha(n) Da(l)e
Scoping the runout
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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May 20, 2009 - 09:43am PT
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I hear they might make an honest man out of me
Good to sea.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 4, 2009 - 04:16pm PT
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The distant figure of a man on the rocks over the water attracted notice. He would take a few steps and then pause as though unsure what to do next.
A woman's faint voice floated over the water to him.
The man's attention was elsewhere. The voice entered his ears but sat in his brain a few seconds before it was understood.
"Are you scared?"
The man considered the question and gave the right answer: "Yes."
He wasn't scared of his photographic subject:
He was a little scared of the subject of the last few minutes:
He was mostly scared of the spiders.
Those and the crazy world that fractures one's mind into easily conquered divisions.
But the line between climbing and swimming is simple, friendly, and familiar.
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duncan
Trad climber
London, UK
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Aug 16, 2009 - 04:04am PT
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My “Hail Mary” for contributing to a political thread.
Shining sea, slight return...trip to the north Cornish and Devon coast.
Port Quin. Chocolate box cuteness.
Approach to Doyden Castle, "Built about 1830 by local bon-viveur Samuel Symons to entertain friends to nights of feasting, drinking and gambling." You can now rent it for short breaks (feasting, drinking and gambling not compulsory, as far as I’m aware).
Doyden Point climbing, Mun on a pleasant VS (5.7).
After a day's sea-cliff climbing there is only one possible diner
The parish church of St Nectan, Stoke. “The cathedral of north Devon”.
Approaching Lower Sharpnose Point. The British Government is listening but the cows don't seem too bothered. This site does not appear on any official UK maps, a ludicrous charade that continues despite it showing beautifully on Google...
The crags in this area are made of Culm, a soft sedimentary rock that forms striking cliff architecture. Some of the crags are tottering death choss (which doesn't stop people climbing them of course) but Lower Sharpnose is as solid as Culm gets. The cliff is formed of three disconcertingly slender vertical fins of harder rock that have resisted erosion … so far. A unique feature that also has very fine climbing in the 5.8-5.12 range.
Andy on 'Last Laugh' E2 (about 5.10).
Fi on 'Last Laugh' E2.
Andy on 'Pacemaker' E5 (about 5.12a).
This coast has a large tidal range (picture taken from a similar point to that of Andy on Last Laugh).
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 17, 2009 - 03:53pm PT
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Thanks, duncan.
Sites that do not appear on maps are appropriate for this thread.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Aug 23, 2009 - 07:19pm PT
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At least 2 people are missing, and others injured (including broken bones) after a wave
spawned by Hurricane Bill broke over a crowd watching the show at Thunder Hole (a natural
feature that amplifies waves) in Acadia National Park today. Most NE climbers know the
place, I think.
http://www.bloomberg.com/apps/news?pid=20601087&sid=aITyeVIi54.Q
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 26, 2009 - 04:38pm PT
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Two friends of mine - we'll call them Dave and Dave - were the first to discover the seaside traverse featured in this thread, in the later 1970s. It is in a municipal park in a wealthy suburb, so access is a concern - parking is quite limited, which helps a lot. D & D saw the cliff from nearby, swam over, and after some effort figured out the line, which is perhaps 100 m long, from 1 to 5 m above the water at high tide. (Timing is, as they say, important.) Maybe easy 5.10. It took a long time for information about the traverse to trickle out, which was probably just as well.
For many years the three of us - we all started climbing at Squamish in 1973 or so - have gotten together on the Friday nearest midsummer's day to do the traverse, drink beer, and read poetry aloud. The last couple years we've missed out - this year one of the Ds was away, last year it rained and so we went hiking. So we went a few days ago. Here are the two Ds, en route. (We also picked up a bit of garbage.)
An early version of deep water soloing, not yet prettified as 'psicobloc'.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2009 - 08:51pm PT
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For many years the three of us - we all started climbing at Squamish in 1973 or so - have gotten together on the Friday nearest midsummer's day to do the traverse, drink beer, and read poetry aloud.
Do you swim across and does the above completely describe your ritual, or is a young lady offered in protection from your pagan gods?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 29, 2009 - 08:53pm PT
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And keep a lookout for Fast Eddie.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Aug 29, 2009 - 11:15pm PT
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And keep a lookout for Fast Eddie.
I'm having trouble visualizing Fast Eddie on the Lighthouse Park traverse. Where were you on 26 July? Or where was whoever took that picture?
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Aug 31, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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I haven't seen Eddie, at least not the one depicted.
Dave N does nice invitations to the annual girdle traverse and poetry fest. If I can find one, I'll scan it.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 31, 2009 - 08:30pm PT
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Where were you on 26 July?
I was at the north end of the traverse. The picture below has some relevant details. Usually people cross low. A key large blocky chalked hold can be seen left of the kayakers. Or its shadow at any rate.
Once Guy Edwards and I had a try at returning by a higher line that occupies the upper part of the picture. We didn't do it that day, but I suspect he may have previously, but let me figure it out myself.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iE7HROM_SrE
The video is from a few years ago when the evening light was getting to the problem shown above. After the first session it was obvious that the indended audience, workmates, would be bored by the climbing stuff, and additional interest was needed. Going back a second evening I staged a fall, then realized additional takes should be had, but all 3 came out unexciting, really, because I dropped off instead of falling. The effort is redeemed only by the fortuitous appearance of the small boat and the guy asking, "Would you do it again, for us, please?"
And the Eddie referred to is the one who whisked up Pigeon Spire in the Bugaboos in 19 minutes.
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richross
Trad climber
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Oct 27, 2009 - 04:48pm PT
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Casey Newman following A Dare by the Sea,1985 Maine.
Geoff Ohland down below.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 27, 2009 - 10:16pm PT
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Nice pics, Rich Ross!
to the Northwest:
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 12:13am PT
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Through the forest primeval
Bearded in moss
for the tag end of aught 9
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 22, 2009 - 12:30am PT
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Andy, that third picture is cheating.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 22, 2009 - 01:17am PT
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Andy, that third picture is cheating.
You're allowed to do that at my age. Possibly even at yours.
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bmacd
Social climber
British Columbia
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Dec 22, 2009 - 04:00am PT
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MH2 thanks for such a brilliant thread. This seaside crag of ours was were I discovered climbing for the very first time, 35 years ago. Nice to see those old familiar faces, both flesh and stone.
thank you for the effort put into sharing it here
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richross
Trad climber
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Dec 22, 2009 - 08:20pm PT
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Climbing at the Precipice in 1985.
Mt Desert Island,Maine.
Geoff and Barb checking out a bike in Bar Harbor.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 12:35am PT
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This seaside crag of ours was were I discovered climbing for the very first time, 35 years ago.
Guess you mean LHP?
It's great to have your participation, Bruce.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 23, 2009 - 12:40am PT
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richross,
Don't you think that bike needs more than 1 hour parking? Considering it must be from another planet?
Hmmmm....wide crack corner then thin crack corner....probably not this combo but they are Mt. Desert about 1976
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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[photoid=147675]
Thanks Jeremy!
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Largo
Sport climber
The Big Wide Open Face
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
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Ah ha ! sac's identity revealed ...
MH2 your lighthouse park traverse and plunge Utube video has only 9 views including mine tonight. Versus my Utube mega hit, "Triple UFO sighting 2008" video now at almost 51,893 views. Or my legendary classic, "A Midnight Bigfoot Encounter - Coastal BC" now at 23,894 views
May I suggest you do a Lighthouse traverse X-files clip to boost your viewership ? Place some CCH offset cams as you climb and put "Hybrid Aliens 2010 Vancouver" in your clip title .... yer looking at 10,000 views no problem
just saying ... ;)
MH2 - Yes LHP was the start of it all for me
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 5, 2010 - 01:49am PT
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On Topic??
Definitely!
I'd sure like to see some alpine rock get climbed the way those kids play. The whole symphony instead of riffs.
Bruce: shhhh...9 views is way too many. It's a secret location, man!
Plus, I haven't figured out how to compress my video and still like the result.
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Mar 31, 2010 - 01:18pm PT
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Climbing!!!
SUUUUN!!!!
Spring!!
By the Sea!!
Yeeeeaahhhh!!!
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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Mar 31, 2010 - 01:46pm PT
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Definately not lighthouse
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bmacd
Trad climber
Beautiful, BC
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Mar 31, 2010 - 06:53pm PT
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went thru sansum narrows by boat this past summer, its still sporting a few of my stainless steel do dads ... i wonder who goes there now ? i think i have old pics of gf working an overhang there
dvernon might claim credit for the FA of the traverse at lighthouse
sac photos may be from cortez island ?
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Mar 31, 2010 - 07:05pm PT
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Dave Nicol and Dave Vernon first did the traverse, I think in the late 1970s. My first time was 1986 - expo summer. We also swam out to the islands, and perturbed the seals and birds.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 15, 2010 - 11:12am PT
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A salty little bump!
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asa desmet
Trad climber
huntingtion beach
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May 15, 2010 - 06:13pm PT
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 15, 2010 - 11:48pm PT
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Aren't those pics at the top of this page, Stillwater Bluffs?
I have such good memories of being 24 and smoking a bowl and cruising the traverse at sunset
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 19, 2010 - 12:33am PT
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I have such good memories of being 24
You must be, what, 24 and a half, now?
Sunshine is great when you can't take it for granted. And maybe when you can; I wouldn't know.
clouds moving in again
Thanks to Ed H for pointing the way to vimeo. Maybe this this file should have been compressed more, so that downloading could stay ahead of playing, but otherwise this is an improvement over the previous one.
http://vimeo.com/10119675
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 26, 2010 - 04:02pm PT
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Reviewing a previous theme and extending it:
You step blind round a corner of sheer rock and move carefully down into the vast, dank mouth of the cave. It seems as big as a cathedral: a black, thundering dome, like a lunatic's skull, water boiling along its floor, birds flitting in the dark air.
Al Alvarez in Hard Rock
Of course in a cave it may be bats instead of birds flitting in the dark air.
“The Bats of Remorse hang upside down in the Cave of Grief.” Discuss.
Model Answer : It is a fact of nature that bats, sometimes many hundreds of them, hang upside down in caves. The author is making use of this image to comment upon human frailty, specifically the emotionally disruptive lacerations of remorse and grief. Bats are linked with remorse, the cave with grief. As we read and digest the phrase, tears well up in our eyes, and we begin to sob. Our past griefs may come tumbling back inside our heads, the inside of the head very much like a cave, if we think of the skull as stone, with crags and dents. The flutterings we feel inside it, synapses snapping as we are racked by remorse, can be thought of as bats swooping in to the cave to take up their perches. Once in place, they hang there twitching occasionally, just as the lashings of remorse twitch within the porale of grief. Crucially, the writer is implying that when we stop blubbing like girlies, and dry our eyes, and grasp our Alpenstock in readiness for a healthy hike in the mountains to wash all this mawkish drivel out of our heads, the bats remain hanging there, upside down within. They do not go away. The lesson is self-evident, and is imprinted upon our consciousness, even when we are atop the mountain, panting, buffeted by a high freezing wind.
Note : Extra points will be awarded to those who correctly identify the text as a line from Dennis Beerpint’s magisterial piece Versified Outpourings From The Batcave, recently reissued by Twee Threnodies Ltd.
Frank Key
http://hootingyard.org/page/2
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 26, 2010 - 04:21pm PT
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I was on Quadra over the weekend. Overhanging seaside solid limestone, day-amn!
The constant sea lion chorus was a bit offputting though.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 7, 2010 - 04:18am PT
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I'm glad to hear that the place had good company, Greg.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2010 - 09:44am PT
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Eloquent pictures, Jim Lawyer.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 22, 2010 - 10:49am PT
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By the sea, the shining sea.....
Hey, I just wanted to be on your ultra-cool thread!
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 22, 2010 - 09:16pm PT
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Sand is a religious experience.
Thanks, survival.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 22, 2010 - 10:08pm PT
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Where are those shots maestro Lawyer? Devil's Slide?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jul 22, 2010 - 11:19pm PT
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The first couple look like the lofotens...
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Jim Lawyer
climber
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Jul 23, 2010 - 07:21am PT
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Steve -- Oops. Sorry for my lack of captions. I went back and added appropriate captions. - Jim
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Jim Lawyer
climber
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Jul 23, 2010 - 07:33am PT
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Some more seaside shots.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 23, 2010 - 10:21am PT
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Beautiful pix!
Has anyone ever tumbled off that rite of passage thingy on Svolverholverholversen?
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Jim Lawyer
climber
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Jul 23, 2010 - 02:00pm PT
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I'm not the one to ask, but if you blow the jump, you will most surely be injured. I do know that the landing platform is somewhat smaller than it once was due to rockfall. Combined with a poorly-sloped take-off, it's a scary jump.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Jul 23, 2010 - 02:42pm PT
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I brought my Five Tennies along just to stick (and cushion!) that leap, when Gary Kofinas and I climbed the Gaeta.
Always fun to see Lofoten pics.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Jul 23, 2010 - 03:37pm PT
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Great photos JimLawyer!
GO
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 5, 2010 - 07:52pm PT
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That's a new one for me, sac.
WHY A HELMET?!!
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Aug 13, 2010 - 12:43pm PT
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Anglesey's Red Wall - the Mecca of Chossheads
In fact, if you look really closely you can see Joe!
No, really, he's there! We met him at the top. He had just
turned 50 and had led an E1 10b chossfest.
I'm kind of liking the IHP old timie postcard look although if truth
be told it is really do to improper negative storage and a cheap scanner. Oh well...
And since it is Wales we're talking about, it isn't very far inland...
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bmacd
climber
Relic Hominid
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Aug 13, 2010 - 12:59pm PT
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pc
climber
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Aug 13, 2010 - 01:19pm PT
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This is a fantastic thread. Thanks all. I'm heading down to the southern Oregon coast next week and have a couple new boulders to hop on that I spotted on my last trip. Hopefully I can get a good shot or two to post up.
Cheers,
pc
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 16, 2010 - 08:05pm PT
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pc anticipation bump
one of the more hilarious photos ever posted, Reilly! esp. because of the simple CAFE contrast
and Bruce! ever mysterious: which glow on the horizon is Vancouver?
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cintune
climber
the Moon and Antarctica
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Aug 16, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
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Thalatta! Thalatta!
A couple from my son's Mediterranean trip this summer.
Crete
Athens
Mykonos
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Spider Savage
Mountain climber
SoCal
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Aug 16, 2010 - 08:28pm PT
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I like being out at sea in a small craft. It's got horizontal exposure.
Spent Saturday off the coast of Santa Barbara hunting sharks and other delectable game fish in a small rubber boat. Rowed for about 4 hours. Cold, wet, puking, good stuff. I want more.
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le_bruce
climber
Oakland: what's not to love?
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Aug 18, 2010 - 03:01pm PT
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The Eagle
He clasps the crag with crooked hands;
Close to the sun in lonely lands,
Ring'd with the azure world, he stands.
The wrinkled sea beneath him crawls;
He watches from his mountain walls,
And like a thunderbolt he falls.
Alfred, Lord Tennyson
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sac
Trad climber
spuzzum
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Aug 26, 2010 - 11:39am PT
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cowpoke
climber
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Aug 26, 2010 - 05:54pm PT
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missed Jim Lawyer's Lofoten pics the first time around -- so nice.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2010 - 09:19pm PT
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All nice, all appreciated
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2010 - 09:26pm PT
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erstwhile, back at the ranch
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Aug 26, 2010 - 10:30pm PT
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What a wonderful thread.
Some photos of untouched rock on the east coast of New Zealand.
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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Aug 26, 2010 - 11:13pm PT
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denman camp
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 26, 2010 - 11:25pm PT
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Garibaldi descent 24 July 2010
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Not really all that far from where most of the pictures in this thread were taken. (And what a treat to see Greg's shots of family day at LHP)
Edit: Jim, yes, about 10k south of B'ham in Larrabee State Park.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Driving south toward the Spanish coast one winter evening after a day of climbing we crested a hill and got a view of the sun setting over the sea, with a red/orange glow above distant hills.
It took a minute to realize those distant hills were in Africa. I felt the strangest sensation... an almost physical pull. I'll probably never get there, something I'll always regret.
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TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
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gf:
That last shot of yours...
Kings have given away kingdoms and not come to realize that much value.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Ghost- my family went across to Morocco for about a week back in 1969. Radically different from Spain and the rest of Europe.
Egypt and Jordan are next on my African wish list.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Egypt and Jordan are next on my African wish list.
Wishing that Jordan was in Africa is... uhhmm...
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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The second post to this thread simply says "Thalassa! Thalassa!"
I can't believe there isn't a single classical scholar here who can identify who said it, and in what context. Ron, Anastasia (hint), Rich, Ed, someone?
Hint: "delendaest" is another classical allusion, though I haven't yet figured out the Carthaginian reference.
Bump.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 4, 2010 - 11:58pm PT
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The second post to this thread simply says "Thalassa! Thalassa!"
I thought you were exclaiming about ladybugs.
gf,
that is so good to see
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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"Thalassa! Thalassa!"
Well, yes, a genus of ladybug. But I don't think that's what Xenophon's mercenaries had in mind when they shouted "Thalassa! Thalassa!"
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Anastasia
climber
hanging from a crimp and crying for my mama.
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It's in the book Anabasis.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Nov 27, 2010 - 03:42pm PT
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Seaside Bump.
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allapah
climber
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Nov 28, 2010 - 04:09am PT
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ayasayuk, cape nome
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 28, 2010 - 04:45am PT
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Nice picture allapah but it seems to have a story. That earth-moving heavy equipment is quarrying? What do they use the stone for?
I'll need to check with my sister but I think her husband worked as a physician in Nome for a while.
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neebee
Social climber
calif/texas
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Nov 28, 2010 - 08:10am PT
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hey there say, all.... i sure love the sea.... was always by it, whether in calif, or south texas... loved the time there with my mom ... and with my kids...
a sad note, though, as december aproaches... i remeber the tital wave, that christmas season.... each year, there is that reminder, before the new year, now, to be thankful for having family with us, still...
we always loved santa cruz, calif, in our family...
and for me and the kids, it was the south texas gulf...
though, i know for others, the sea is vast in its rich beauty, the world over...
well, just praying for all to have a thankful new year, as the winter presses on...
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2010 - 08:51pm PT
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Many thanks, Disaster Master.
Nice last day, 2010.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 31, 2010 - 09:03pm PT
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Wonderful picture, Greg. It appears you may be out-of-bounds.
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Jan 11, 2011 - 01:05am PT
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Yesterday...
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bmacd
Social climber
100% Canadian
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luvely area but whats with the helmut gf ? it will spoil your hair do man !
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Perhaps the helmet is intended to protect his hair?
Anyway, nice photos, and it looks like an interesting area. Handy that there's a nice wide flat shelf at the bottom, too.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Damn gf, your one lucky fecker.
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Bread
Trad climber
Craggy Mountains, NC
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Dover Island, Nova Scotia
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 13, 2011 - 11:48pm PT
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El Faro, the southernmost lighthouse in the world:
These guys had a little bouldering comp, I guess the sea lions won - they got the top.
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drunkenmaster
Social climber
santa rosa
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Apr 13, 2011 - 11:53pm PT
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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Jul 19, 2011 - 11:26am PT
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 19, 2011 - 12:01pm PT
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I second that!
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kinnikinik
Trad climber
B.C.
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Jul 19, 2011 - 12:05pm PT
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alright
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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Dec 15, 2011 - 06:20pm PT
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 15, 2011 - 11:09pm PT
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Yeah! Fun in the December sun, but when it goes, so do my fingers.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Feb 17, 2012 - 10:21pm PT
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Nice shot!
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bmacd
Trad climber
100% Canadian
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May 12, 2012 - 04:59pm PT
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whats with the long pants and long sleeves ? never summer ? missing the ocean ...
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - May 14, 2012 - 09:49pm PT
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Wow!
Peter makes the rock lean back about 25 degrees! That explains a little.
Thanks for the excellent addition to the thread, Greg.
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Captain...or Skully
climber
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May 14, 2012 - 11:14pm PT
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Forever.
what are the tides doing these days?
Haha! Gotta love it.
This is an AMAZING thread. Peruse it. Therein lies the Gold.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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great thread
sonoma coast, CA
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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too cool not to post
Travis Lombardo-Sonoma Coast
photo: Mike Shoy
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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My meager contribution. Sorry, no climbing shots.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Hey there MH2 awesome thread!! Such a peaceful, or powerful energy comes from climbing above/around water.
Here's a few more from by the sea from when i was lost somewhere near Klamath, CA.
I've also climbed at the place called Heaven that Bruce K speaks of, very cool spot, very cold water. Recommended that you are a strong swimmer if you climb there.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2012 - 07:01pm PT
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GREAT ADDITIONS!!
Harry, do you remember what time of year that was?
The boat coming by at the end really ties it to the place.
edit:
I see on the Squamish Stories and Photos thread that Hamish had the same reaction. It would be good if Dean H would come back on to say a little about that place, and other things.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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**Who's up for some Obscure* Oregon highballing?**
Yes, this beauty is a good 25'.
Mr Moai is a good 50' but chossy
*Bandon
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Reilly,
Where?
Thanks,
Ryan
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 2, 2012 - 07:15pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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HaHaHa! But the ball belongs with these layabouts...
"Dood, for god's sake, it's the middle of the bloody day!"
I didn't have the heart to break it to these Oregon surfers that there have been
significant technological advances of late...
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sac
Trad climber
Sun Coast B.C.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Thanks Jim, generally when I head south I just hit the 5 & hang a left @ shasta. Haven't really got to see the Oregon coastline, cheers. Definitely one of the best threads on this site. Did I hear MH2 say that shots from climbing near rivers or lakes would be acceptable?? Or only from briny water?
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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The Cloud Capp'd Towers....
Edit: Here's a different pic (the one I placed yesterday I already posted here, upthread, a couple years ago, whooooopppssss......)
Nick Buckley toproping a prospective new line, Tilly Whim Caves, Swanage.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2012 - 01:56am PT
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RyanD,
Here is what I said when the question first came up:
As long as there is potentially shining water under the cliff I don't think it matters whether the water is sea or not.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2012 - 02:07am PT
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We've been visited by
dolphins
grey whale
and orcas
Still waiting for a great white.
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Mighty Hiker
climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Were those photos taken from Lighthouse Park, or nearby?
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 6, 2012 - 11:22am PT
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From a keyboard. In Eagle Harbour.
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Bread
Trad climber
Craggy Mountains, NC
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Jul 21, 2012 - 02:32am PT
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Seal Cove
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 21, 2012 - 07:11am PT
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Outrageous, karodrinker, and nice green seas of home, Mike.
Here is a report from a far place:
...pictures of the beautiful island of Skye...And the rain and the mist and the mountains and the cliffs and the ocean and the green, green hills..
Left on Friday night for 3 days on Skye, with a weather forecast of "showerlets on the breeze followed by shafts of sunlight..." Of course, you are no longer sped "on a bonnie boat like a bird on the wing, over the sea to Skye"" but cross on the new utilitarian bridge, unlike my last visit 30 years ago. Three JMCS parties set out for Sron na Ciche on Saturday and had the entire face almost to ourselves; John Porter and I climbed West Cioch and the Nose where lunch time rain stopping us going on to the Crack of Double Doom as planned(I shall return). John added to the Mountain ambiance with his indescribable grunts and groans that would surely have worried the sheep, and he even looked a little concerned when our rope stuck on abseil and I had to climb back up and move the anchor. Back to the hut for fine food, beer and chat after a wonderful day on the hill. (Of note here was Dee's wonderful home grown gooseberries and strawberries and Jeremy's outstanding baking).
On Sunday we climbed some good short, clean sea cliffs at Neist and on Sunday headed North to Flodigary. These fine sea cliffs live up to the lilt in their name and are a delight to climb on, though I did pause at my first ever abseil off "turf stakes". Mark Morin and I climbed the spectacular Spantastic (get it while you can, it creaks) and the excellent crack beside it to the sounds of sea birds, rushing waves and swirling water.
A fabulous weekend with a great group tainted only slightly by just missing dinner at Morrisons in Fort William, closes at 700pm (apparently Simon and Mark do this consistently) and visiting a Chinese fish and chip shop that didn't sell Chinese food - only in the Highlands.
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Jul 21, 2012 - 09:02am PT
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latitude 0
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JimT
climber
Munich
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Jul 21, 2012 - 10:22am PT
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Crunch:- Bit optomistic trying to claim that as a new route! Those cracks where climbed as aid routes and then freed even before I started climbing at Swanage in 1967.
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Jul 21, 2012 - 11:35am PT
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Crunch:- Bit optomistic trying to claim that as a new route! Those cracks where climbed as aid routes and then freed even before I started climbing at Swanage in 1967.
Well, I did write "prospecting" for new routes; sorry if it sounded like I was trying to claim anything more than that. That day, we were just toproping, didn't know what had been done around that area. It was sort of closed at the time, due to rockfall nearby. I think maybe the guy belaying in the photo (whose name I've forgotten) came back later and led the thing. A nice photo, anyway.
Care to share more of the earlier history?
Here's some pics of another route, Dogwatch. It had been climbed on aid. We were trying for a first free ascent:
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Bump for the sea
Cool clouds wrapped around Anvil island today.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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View from the Black Dyke
Kieran on Lost Horizons 10b at Seal Cove
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 13, 2013 - 07:36pm PT
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Chilly litle bumps...
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 13, 2013 - 09:58pm PT
|
bumpy chiller
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:02am PT
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Or last night's single moult...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:09am PT
|
Oh, Steve, are you that shameless? But a gud one, for sure! :-)
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jan 14, 2013 - 11:15am PT
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Let me slip into something more punitive...LOL
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MH2
climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 14, 2013 - 11:55am PT
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the detritus from last nights bouillabaisse?
That was the Lovecraftian Kloochwhich Horror.
And a thing with too many legs.
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Brandon-
climber
The Granite State.
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Jan 29, 2013 - 06:23pm PT
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 29, 2013 - 06:27pm PT
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"Dood, where's yer waterwings?"
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 29, 2013 - 07:33pm PT
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Great rewind, Reilly.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Jan 29, 2013 - 07:42pm PT
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Who is in that picture Reilly? Looks a lot like my old friend Dave Atkinson on one of his English (well, Wessh) sea cliffs.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jan 29, 2013 - 07:54pm PT
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It's Alan Pettit of Gargunnock, a wee village near Sterling.
He was your typical nameless Scot* with stacks of experience in the Alps and,
duh, Scotland. We did Slesse, the Grand Tour de Bugs, Cottonwood Cyn,
some place near Modesto, etc. Then his wife flew out and they hired a car
and drove to Death Valley, in August. Yeah, he knew it was stoopid.
So they're literally the only guests, save one, at the fancy lodge there
(it isn't open in the summer now) and having G&T's under a brolly by the
pool watching the other guest do bloody laps in the near boiling pool. After
X laps he gets out and walks up to them and in broad Scots intones,
"Well, if it isn't Alan Pettit of Garrrrgunnock!"
They'd been mates in the U of Glasgow Climbing Club and hadn't set eyes
for yonks!
Oh, yeah, the climb is some heap called Dream of White Horses. Don't let
the sun fool ya - it was nearly the middle of November! But it wasn't
pissing and we're Scots and Irish; it's all good! Yeah, the Ben hadn't
come in yet so it was off to Wales.
*As I recall his French name goes back to the load of frogs Mary brought
back from France.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 10, 2013 - 12:34pm PT
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Keeping time, time, time,
In a sort of Runic rhyme
And the rhythm of the sea
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allapah
climber
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Feb 10, 2013 - 11:53pm PT
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Feb 13, 2013 - 01:58am PT
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 01:24am PT
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crunch
Social climber
CO
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Apr 18, 2013 - 06:02pm PT
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 18, 2013 - 10:07pm PT
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Thanks, crunch.
From approximately the same time (mid-70s)
Skye
South France
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Oct 14, 2013 - 11:35am PT
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That's cool gf, the stone looks really neat!
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Oct 14, 2013 - 03:44pm PT
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Can't climb on it, but one never gets tired of looking at it.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2013 - 12:36am PT
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I like the photos but is there really enough water to go all the way to Oregon, let alone Taiwan?
It was a relief to find the local sea still there but the sun was disappearing Taiwan-ward.
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L
climber
California dreamin' on the farside of the world..
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Oct 15, 2013 - 10:09am PT
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Backatcha, my friend.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2013 - 11:15am PT
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Dry as dry can be in the PNW, Bruce. Threatened by a stalk of grass, though. Good thing Ondrej and Mook were out there, too.
I'm okay with the sun going West. That happens every day. It's that damn trip South that makes the Northern parts of the Traverse tricky for old fingers this time of year.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 3, 2013 - 11:33pm PT
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On my way in I met 3 guys on their way out.
Down by the water I noticed...
Above
Same hold
They did not have pads.
On the walk-off above the problem
Nice evening
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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He was "in the house."
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Considering all the times I've been huffed at by sea lions there in thye summer, a great white would not be out of place.
An orca would probably make a great crashpad
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 4, 2013 - 07:47pm PT
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Oh for an app that would alert me, if I had a cell phone. If there was an app. Grey whale, orca, dolphin, great white, or Chilean submarine.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2013 - 11:04am PT
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One was a local photographer/climber, one was a face that seemed familiar from photos but whose name I couldn't be sure of, and Will.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 10:59pm PT
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Otters make me happy.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 5, 2014 - 11:55pm PT
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Good, gf. We need establishing shots, too.
Whatever they are?
edit:
An establishing shot in filmmaking and television production sets up, or establishes the context for a scene by showing the relationship between its important figures and objects. It is generally a long- or extreme-long shot at the beginning of a scene indicating where, and sometimes when, the remainder of the scene takes place.
Well. Maybe it is a little late in the thread for the establishing shot. Still a good picture of our environs, today.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I was soloing around at Copper Cove once when I heard some noises, yipping or like that, coming from by the water.
Peeked over an overhang just above the tide line to see Mama Otter and her brood, four of them.
Mama had a big ling cod, like a 15-pounder.
Well, the otters' jaws went snicker-snack and that ling cod was gone in like, 5 bites, man. Max.
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MH2
climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2014 - 09:02pm PT
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I always scan for otters, among other things. Though I haven't managed to be out there when orcas are spy-hopping, I did see The Creature from the Black Lagoon going by.
The rare times I'm not out there will be covered by these babies.
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MH2
climber
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 7, 2014 - 12:07am PT
|
^
That's because
For De Mille young fur-henchman can't be rowing.
(sorry, Mr. Pynchon)
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MH2
climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 3, 2014 - 11:56am PT
|
...and some just clap their hands, or paws, or whatever they got, now
...and the otter hasn't got much to say
Thanks, Greg.
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MH2
climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2014 - 07:58pm PT
|
This ship has a fairy godmother.
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MH2
climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2014 - 06:17pm PT
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MH2
climber
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2014 - 09:25pm PT
|
Yep. Notable resemblance, Jim.
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RyanD
climber
Squamish
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Classic!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2015 - 07:21am PT
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WHOOO! Climbers in sunshine on warm rock in February, by the Salish Sea.
JB was kind enough to send me a notice but I was out walking our dog and talking the usual photos.
Thanks for the red, Phil.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2015 - 07:42pm PT
|
a fair bit of life intervened
Life is what happens when you aren't on The Traverse.
(Might need to work on that idea.)
Chalked pawprint of true alpinists?
Tami reference?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 16, 2015 - 09:00pm PT
|
Exactly what was bothering me.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
|
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 06:05am PT
|
There is a painted driftwood critter which may have been intended as a seahorse but looks like a rat to me. It showed up one day. I once reunited the tail with the body and re-hung it but have no info on where it came from.
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=724921&tn=444
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 17, 2015 - 08:44pm PT
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On Sunday the traverse saw a rare constellation of visitors.
On Monday your reporter went down to have a look and came away impressed by the cool wet conditions, after the weather forecast had called for better.
Today I was back and it was warmer and drier. I made an addition of dubious value to the image library:
Then, since the sun had not quite set and I was waiting for that, I left the camera behind and did the north side. On the return leg I paused on the easy part and watched the gold and lilac colours of the sun's path on the waves. Just as I was thinking, "this is what I love most about this place," I saw something:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=724921&tn=0#msg724921
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 18, 2015 - 06:54am PT
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It might have been a porpoise. The dorsal fin had a definite arch, though. Never saw the head, just the back rolling out of and back into the water at 20 to 50 foot intervals as it went by in the direction of Vancouver. There seemed to be just the one, and it kept to the same heading as long as I saw it.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 16, 2015 - 08:48pm PT
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close enough
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Saugy
Mountain climber
BC
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Mar 16, 2015 - 10:35pm PT
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Dolphins!
This sizeable pod was hanging around a few years ago now.. would be nice to see a return visit.
Video taken just around the bend from your seaside crag. I gotta visit that place one day! (Since I frickin drive by it every other day!!)
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Mar 17, 2015 - 07:48am PT
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Andy, nice shot of the orcas! Very cool.
Sweet video Don.
Edit Lol Andy! Thought it looked kinda "fishy"..... Lol
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 17, 2015 - 10:37am PT
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I was sitting in Benares one morning contemplating the infinite while gazing out at the glassy surface of the Ganges from the bank when the glass moved.
I saw a beautiful curve and dorsal fin and suddenly knew that a Ganges Dolphin had just said hello and have a nice life. You always have to look twice in India as things are never what they seem but the memory is crystal clear and I felt blessed to have seen such a rare and exquisite creature. How it could survive in that situation is beyond me but then the Ganges is no ordinary river.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Mar 17, 2015 - 10:50am PT
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Thanks for that, Steve.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Mar 17, 2015 - 10:55am PT
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Always a pleasure to add to this marvelous thread.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 9, 2015 - 09:17pm PT
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 27, 2015 - 06:41am PT
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Joey Williams in the air. Both photos courtesy of Joey Williams.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 29, 2015 - 06:56pm PT
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Amazing photos Josh! Thanks for sharing Andy!
The sunset on the ferry was awesome tonight!
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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Dec 29, 2015 - 07:15pm PT
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The sunset on the ferry was awesome tonight!
Hard to reconcile that photo with what you were posting just a day ago.
Southwestern BC is an amazing place.
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Big Mike
Trad climber
BC
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Dec 30, 2015 - 09:58am PT
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It certainly is that Dave!
Thanks Tami! Andy's stuff always deserves a bump!
Crazy outrigger canoe in the Nanaimo harbour
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Dec 30, 2015 - 10:27am PT
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Tied up for the send on the Rock Of Ages, Beagle Channel.
Got a pic of the anchors somewhere. This water would make that
water in the Salish Sea seem toasty.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 6, 2016 - 08:33pm PT
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Great to see the additions, folks.
This is a good time of year on the traverse, though perhaps an equally good time of year on Fluffy Kitten.
My most recent visit on 20 Nov
A few days later I saw dolphins from the shore for the second time.This time I had a camera though the lens was the one that had taken a 40-footer on Squamish Buttress.
Heading for Vancouver
Me traversing in a no traversing zone
The dolphins heading back out.
There were more than one this time.
December 31 was just right. As I left the house it felt way too cold, but when you got into the sun the rock was warm. This was not THE traverse but nearby. Another Squamish old timer was enjoying the rock too.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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That we are related to those wonderful sea creatures is rather delightful when you think about it.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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The OP counts as poetic photography... a beauty!
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Plenty of seacliff climbing in Norway I would think.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 9, 2016 - 10:00pm PT
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Always maintain 4 points of contact.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 9, 2016 - 08:07pm PT
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I made my first traverse of 2016 this evening. Someone else had been there, too, either earlier today or perhaps yesterday. Seeing the chalk improved my morale, although going south to north I did not notice it until about half-way, just past the crux. Whoever it was took a couple harder variants, so it could have been Sean. We've had a couple of dry days but recent rains were still draining down parts of the rock. The sun was weak when I was there but the rock was warm.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 30, 2016 - 08:12am PT
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The Caulfeild Sea Cliffs
It's a good year for the apple tree.
Evening is a good time to visit.
You can make new friends but it may take time. This crew was stand-offish on the first encounter but waved at me on the second pass.
And after the sun goes down
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jun 30, 2016 - 09:17pm PT
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Paddleboarder or the Second Coming?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 9, 2016 - 10:09pm PT
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Today began with clouds and rain but it cleared in the afternoon.
The evening was silvery rather than golden, but the traverse was almost all dry.
The man on the water appeared again.
He was headed away but turned around and came toward me. I thought he just wanted to say hi, but he had become concerned that I might be stranded.
So the question of SUP versus God incarnate is probably answered. The day held other questions, though.
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 10, 2016 - 12:27pm PT
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The Good Surftarian...
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jul 11, 2016 - 02:53am PT
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In terms of climbing, it seems that back in the 1980s I was one of the early explorers of the British Virgin Islands. I took my wife (now ex-wife) to Virgin Gorda specifically to go bouldering. I had dislocated my left shoulder in a ski mountaineering accident just a few weeks before the trip, so unfortunately I wasn't in peak climbing shape at the time.
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Gnome Ofthe Diabase
climber
Out Of Bed
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Jul 11, 2016 - 03:05am PT
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SLR
The "Baths"!. I remember that we were moored at Peter Island cursing out of Tortola.
I was, still in high school so it must have been 78-79.
The tours to the baths from some resort turned a corner just as I was lay backing up
and out a scoop, the sound of the snapping of shutters, got into my head & I dropped with a splash. The tour guide seemed to have never seen anyone climb there.
I was actually wreck diving, did you dive ? Did you go to the wreck of the Rone?
It was said that it was un- lucky for newly weds to dive on the Rone, it was the site of some of the scenes in the C Bisset N Noltey movie " The Deep". Which is how the word got out to some SoCal chick, who couldn't keep a secret,.,.,.,B+D, youth was not wasted on gnome.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Jul 11, 2016 - 05:08pm PT
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Beautiful BVI visuals, Ledge Rat. I am sure I have seen some of them before.
Nice reminiscing, Gnome.
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Sierra Ledge Rat
Mountain climber
Old and Broken Down in Appalachia
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Jul 11, 2016 - 05:09pm PT
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gnome
I wasn't into scuba diving at the time
would love to go back someday with my dive gear
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Aug 9, 2016 - 08:06pm PT
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Hurrah!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 5, 2016 - 08:28am PT
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That hole might be one I vaguely remember a ways north of most of the climbing and bouldering at Juniper Point.
There is another zawn just barely north of Juniper Point but it doesn't look like the one you show. Oplopanax posted photos of it earlier in the thread:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.php?topic_id=724921&tn=209
Interesting idea to swim in and boulder out.
I usually stay out where I can be available to the public. From August when there was sun:
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 22, 2017 - 12:26pm PT
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Long overdue coastal bump...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 22, 2017 - 01:02pm PT
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Hey, it used to be ocean front!
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2017 - 01:55pm PT
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Quite timely, Steve,
And we are all about "used to be" here on SuperTopo, Reilly.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2017 - 01:59pm PT
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Patterns in my photos
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 22, 2017 - 02:05pm PT
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First full (south to north and back) traverse of '17
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Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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May 20, 2017 - 01:55pm PT
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Salty bumps in the sun...
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 20, 2017 - 02:01pm PT
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I hope to contribute this fine thread in two weeks from Anglesey!
Provided it's done pissing there. :-/
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2017 - 09:20pm PT
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Yes, frostback. Sea-cliff fun.
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Ghost
climber
A long way from where I started
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May 29, 2017 - 09:38pm PT
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 29, 2017 - 09:41pm PT
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The sea holds mysteries.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 30, 2017 - 08:52am PT
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You are right, frostback, but it is a long story. With foreshadowings, literary references, illustrations, botanical and zoological meanderings, and flashbacks to scenes of sex and violence. I have been intending to add it to this thread, and the photo above was a good ending. It will take a while to put the other elements together.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 30, 2017 - 10:10am PT
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Ghost you need to keep traversing from that pic to get to Moss Mtn
Thankfully dogs make gud encouragers
Then there's our northern zone. No photos from that shining sea yet?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2017 - 04:47pm PT
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Thanks, Oplo. That dog looks smart.
Maybe now there is a photo or two of the northern zone?
When Roscoe first showed up he/she was hanging low in a tree where non-climber passersby might go.
I took it for a child's creation and re-located it where it was less likely to be disturbed. To me it resembled a Tami Knight cartoon rat and a good mascot for the traverse.
Roscoe has made it through storm, heat, cold, a fall and loss of tail, and a neck fracture.
This Spring I had to revise my opinion of Roscoe's origin.
I now guess that Roscoe plays a part in weird ju-ju. This Spring I have seen things at the traverse which 25 years of regular attendance did not prepare me for.
What is going on, here?
Answer coming later.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2017 - 04:53pm PT
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And a reprise of a video Harry posted:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
with the spiders
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 31, 2017 - 06:28pm PT
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Foreshadowing.
Upcoming Yosemite TR.
If so on and so forth...
My internet-assisted guess: Erythranthe tilingii
Probably a cousin beside the trail to upper Yosemite Falls:
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2017 - 11:12am PT
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The park in which the traverse is found is a place of quiet beauty.
WARNING
SOME OF WHAT FOLLOWS MAY BE DISTURBING TO SOME VIEWERS
CONTENT MAY NOT BE SUITABLE FOR CHILDREN
My eyesight is not sharp. I noticed something unusual out in the water but it was too far off, about 400 metres, until I looked at the tele photos. It was drifting away and this image is a sequence collected over several minutes.
Maybe the root system of an old-growth stump upside down and mostly submerged?
Doesn’t account for what looks like a head on the left with a mouth that opens and closes.
Later in the sequence
I could not visualize a geometry that would shift and rotate to present those views.
What I could visualize was this:
A plesiosaur grabbed a seal and then got attacked by a shark. Pretty cool!
RETURN TO REGULAR PROGRAMMING
Adult program will resume after a short break.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2017 - 12:22pm PT
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I was told by the paddle-boarder that these are sea lions.
They yell OORT! OORT! OORT!
I never noticed them before, if they were around, but they are hard to miss.
Out of the corner of my eye:
Next day, confirmation.
Passing directly off shore from the traverse:
Sea lions in same location but different angle, doing idon’wannaknowwhut.
Whale nearing the same place:
And the answer to it all?
Small fish.
Many of them.
Maybe recovering as pollutant sources go the way of the past.
Bringing back whales, dolphins, sea lions, and eagles trying to shake down sea gulls.
And people.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Jun 1, 2017 - 01:18pm PT
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I was not aware. Being an adult is not easy.
Do not approach sea lions.
Do not feed them.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Jun 29, 2017 - 07:04am PT
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The lure of the sea to earn a living. 18th century copper and tin mines in Cornwall. Would you dig a vertical shaft down in order to dig an adit out beneath the sea floor?
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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I'm damned if I can find something to climb here next summer.
Maybe I'll just go fishing.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I recall doing the traverse at Lighthouse (not Kmans) back in the early 90s on many a spring/summer eve to be greeted by the chuff of a sea lion surfacing below me. never seen that many though! bitd you were lucky to have one.
Let's hear it for the herring and for SES doing the herring mesh wraps of creosote pilings. As well as for the remedy of the Brittania toxic discharge and for the shutdown of Woodfibre toxic discharge. Those three things seem to be giving us the livelier Sound. Huzzah
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 6, 2017 - 04:35pm PT
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I prefer warm water, too. And dry rock.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 7, 2017 - 09:57am PT
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The Runner.
Nearby.
I ran away soon after this, but it was a sketchy retreat:
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Cool... That's no sea for old men...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2017 - 08:31am PT
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Dick Culbert well remembered. Thanks for putting that here. The Rock itself looks ghost-like in the last shot.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 8, 2017 - 11:25am PT
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Beautiful shining colours and an arrow pointing to The Rock.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Oct 10, 2017 - 08:35am PT
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I prefer warm water, too. And dry rock.
Gotchya covered, braj! Capri’s yer game!
The approach is sano and the apres-send ain’t bad neither!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 10, 2017 - 09:30am PT
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The original S'i'lix seems like a much better name to me from here on out than Siwash
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 5, 2017 - 07:52pm PT
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Perfect time, Greg.
We may live to see the park re-named.
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Hoser
climber
Vancouver,Rome
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IF you climb ice on the west coast you may recognize this Brit - always taking the cover shot.
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couchmaster
climber
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Stand back folks, professional writer at work. Let her work...!!! LOL. Classic Tami, I had to read it twice and I'm still laughing - so funny. Tami noted: "I've spent enough time by the sea to know that barnacles don't have to run around like raccoons on a double espresso to cause you real damage..."
So true. side note, has anyone eaten the barnacles they cook up in Spain? Suppose to be awesome.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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More often than knott if there are barnies there are mussels. Case closed.
Then there was the time we were kayaking up the west coast of Vancouver Island, merrily eating mussels and cockles all the day long.
Then we pulled into some bucolic vestige of civilisation and saw the DANGER - RED TIDE! posters. Oops! Luckily, they were crankloons.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2017 - 12:21pm PT
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has anyone eaten the barnacles they cook up in Spain?
No.
But I did take a course from a neurophysiologist at the University of Chicago.
There were only 3 of us in the course. Our friend from Japan once amused us by calling our professor Spiro-u-op-or-us.
Constantine S. Spyropoulus liked to study axons from lobster. He did not like to eat lobster but he generously gave the non-axon parts to other staff.
We 3 thrown-together students of a clearly eccentric, or off-the-rails teacher were told we were going to be putting our micro-electrodes into the vital parts of giant barnacles, once the barnacle got delivered to Chicago.
The 3 of us were joking about various things one day, probably the day our Japanese colleague showed his understanding of our understanding by launching his non-Western pronunciation and immediately laughing, allowing the other 2 of us to laugh also, and then 3rd of us (not me and from a place stranger to me than Japan) memorably called our briefly shared experience, Waiting for Barnacle.
It's odd what we remember. Thanks to the age we live in, I found a bit of corroborating evidence that my story might be true:
http://www.tandfonline.com/doi/pdf/10.3109/03009738009179192
edit:
The barnacles never came.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 29, 2017 - 08:40am PT
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Thanks, John Okner!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Nov 29, 2017 - 09:50am PT
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IF you climb ice on the west coast you may recognize this Brit - always taking the cover shot.
Two questions,
1) how do you get G to wear bright coloured clothing?
2) how do you get him to agree to wear bright clothing to match the rope?
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Actually it just looks like the sea. It’s Lago General Carrera in Patagonia...our front yard.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 1, 2017 - 03:16pm PT
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We hear about Vancouver having a wild back yard, but it's nothing like Jim's front yard.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 5, 2017 - 08:31am PT
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The John Okner photos say many things.
Having them appear temporarily is a welcome concession from a working photographer.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Good posture exhibited and some are even doing curls with their beer....must be the highly nutrient Canadian hops.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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I'll be over dat shining sea tomorrow.
The only cliffs there are distinctly not sea cliffs though...
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 2, 2018 - 09:12pm PT
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Yowza! Great way to get Ed out on local rock. Cheers to all.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Well I contemplated the opening moves, but couldn't pull the trigger, I have a lot of excuses: 1) low tide revealed the barnacled rock landing awaiting a failure to unlock the opening sequence, 2) I should have worn my board shorts so as not to worry over the possibility of the "unlikely event of a water landing," and 3) the inability to focus on the climbing with the sea splashing up on the foot holds. But these are the excuses of a timid old man, and part of the challenges and the charms of the problem.
I have to say I'm intrigued by such a glorious boulder problem, a long traverse over the shining sea, in the northern suburbs of a glorious city. And the fact that this problem has such a great history, establishing "deep sea high ball bouldering" way before its contemporary popular instantiation.
Thanks for the gracious hospitality of the climbers in that picture, and to the inestimable effort of Tami to guide me to a yoga studio for Sunday practice after a busy week just preparing for the conference.
Anyway, I have another Canadian climb to add to the tick-list.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Does high tide merely obfuscate the awaiting barnies?
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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yes, but sometimes all you need is a bit of obfuscation to maintain the fiction...
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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Gaby coming down from (I think) an old Hans Zack/Wolfgang Gullich route on the Wall of Acids (Parede dos Acidos) in Rio
Gaby climbs a sea wall in Mar del Plata
Mellow traversing at Fleming Beach (Victoria). This place had the hardest 5.10 boulder problems (guidebook grades) I've ever seen.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 6, 2018 - 11:47am PT
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All of that is a lot of fun for me to see.
I was cruising around not long ago and found the old totems and talismans, but not the new stuff that frostback shows us.
The traverse presents psychological challenges. Over the years I've found it better to let people find out for themselves. Ed and the group he was with found the right approach. Good times.
And the imagination is happy to contemplate yoga, about which I know nothing.
edit:
And the name Gaby brings to mind a good story by the brothers Strugatsky.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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I can definitely see a day of being out there and just getting used to it,
the moves aren't physically hard, the traverse is mentally committing.
But what a great spot to just sit and ponder the seeming infinity of the ocean, and the rock.
yoga is there to explain itself to you whenever you want to know more
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yanqui
climber
Balcarce, Argentina
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^^^^^^^^
I think I remember that piece of rock. If so, after futzing around at a point somewhat lower than the climber on the left-hand side, I decided I'd be better off hiking around to set up a top rope. Turns out I was right about the meaning of "better off". My confidence was restored at Mt. Macdonald/Mt. Wells where 5.10 felt more like how I remembered it.
With respect to the changing (changed) character of the climbing scene, the same day we went to Fleming Beach, we first stopped by a local gym to have a look. It was pretty full. We didn't stay. At Fleming Beach, and the next few days at Mt. Macdonald/Mt. Wells we saw just a small handful of climbers, in spite of the stellar weather and easy access. Not to say that's a bad thing.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 10, 2018 - 12:30pm PT
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By the shining sea on the SE corner of Gambier. Somebody must have climbed on these by now?
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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May 10, 2018 - 02:17pm PT
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I know Tim and Jimmy climbed some stuff with SUP access on Anvil. Never heard of activity on these though but I know Barley kayaks.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2018 - 06:04pm PT
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Frostback, Tricouni, Hartouni.
And the man behind the camera, with frostback, another time.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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May 23, 2018 - 06:22pm PT
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Kudos for wearing away the, er, moss, I guess. 😉
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - May 23, 2018 - 08:37pm PT
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Kudos for wearing away the, er, moss, I guess.
That is prime seagull nesting material, sir, for their little islands a ways off shore.
And a bit of useless lichen, I guess.
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 24, 2018 - 09:24am PT
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This is that Troll's Chimney route on the Squamish west side crags
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Sep 24, 2018 - 12:06pm PT
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Sounds good.
I've long known that the traverse has an apple tree. I was surprised to find this, though:
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Sep 24, 2018 - 03:17pm PT
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SUP and third class this!
or THIS!
ps
Don’t fergit yer wing suit!
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Sep 26, 2018 - 01:14pm PT
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seems legit, 10/10 would SUP and climb
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 13, 2018 - 07:34pm PT
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A casual back-flip? Back in the thread a ways Joey Williams does one.
A guy who snorkels in the area had been wondering for years what it would be like to jump off Juniper Point. Recently he did. He did not work up to it with lower jumps, he just felt it was now or never (he is not young). His landing wasn't the best but he was going on as usual when I saw him. Next time I saw him he said the x-rays (or MRI?) showed a fracture in his femur. Props.
From the old cliff-jumper from somewhere near the traverse:
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 14, 2018 - 02:49am PT
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It's an important and popular fact that things are not always what they seem. For instance, on the planet Earth, man had always assumed that he was more intelligent than dolphins because he had achieved so much – the wheel, New York, wars, and so on – whilst all the dolphins had ever done was muck about in the water having a good time. But conversely, the dolphins had always believed that they were far more intelligent than man – for precisely the same reasons.
Curiously enough, the dolphins had long known of the impending destruction of the planet Earth and had made many attempts to alert mankind to the danger; but most of their communications were misinterpreted as amusing attempts to punch footballs or whistle for titbits, so they eventually gave up and left the Earth by their own means shortly before the Vogons arrived.
The last ever dolphin message was misinterpreted as a surprisingly sophisticated attempt to do a double-backwards-somersault through a hoop whilst whistling the ‘Star-Spangled Banner’,
but in fact the message was this:
So Long, and thanks for all the fish.
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mouse from merced
Trad climber
The finger of fate, my friends, is fickle.
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Oct 14, 2018 - 03:00am PT
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 14, 2018 - 03:10am PT
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2018 - 10:18am PT
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 14, 2018 - 11:43am PT
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MH2: Tell me if what follows is just noise on your thread and I will delete.
A Perfect Circle - So Long, And Thanks For All The Fish
[Click to View YouTube Video]
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2018 - 11:57am PT
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Please do not delete. And don't panic.
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 14, 2018 - 12:13pm PT
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I promise...
They trudged sullenly the alien ground and the round earth rolled beneath them silently milling the greater void wherein they were contained. In the neuter austerity of that terrain all phenomena were bequeathed a strange equality and no one thing nor spider nor stone nor blade of grass could put forth claim to precedence. The very clarity of these articles belied their familiarity, for the eye predicates the whole on some feature or part and here was nothing more luminous than another and nothing more enshadowed and in the optical democracy of such landscapes all preference is made whimsical and a man and a rock become endowed with unguessed kinships.
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 14, 2018 - 07:53pm PT
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a man and a rock become endowed with unguessed kinships.
I'll guess. Oxygen, Iron, Calcium, Sodium, Magnesium, Potassium? Maybe a few others?
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Oct 15, 2018 - 11:41am PT
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Oct 15, 2018 - 11:46am PT
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And Kalium and Natrium to you, sir.
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splitclimber
climber
Sonoma County
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Oct 26, 2018 - 11:36am PT
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a good session yesterday on the Sonoma Coast. minus low tide at sunset made it ideal
hold my beer before I bat hang
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Oct 26, 2018 - 12:37pm PT
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Finally got a not-totally-sucky aerial of Canoe Crag. Only one route on this one according to the McLane guide. Sometimes even forms up ice...
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telemon01
Trad climber
Montana
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Jan 27, 2019 - 05:40am PT
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tradmanclimbs
Ice climber
Pomfert VT
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Jan 27, 2019 - 05:54am PT
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where is canoe crag?
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 27, 2019 - 09:08am PT
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[
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Marlow
Sport climber
OSLO
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Jan 27, 2019 - 09:09am PT
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Oplopanax
Mountain climber
The Deep Woods
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Jan 28, 2019 - 04:17pm PT
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Canoe Crag is across the Sound from Britannia.
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perswig
climber
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Feb 13, 2019 - 03:05am PT
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Overlooking spring ice on Jordan Pond and the meniscus of the Atlantic beyond.
Dale
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MH2
Boulder climber
Andy Cairns
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 13, 2019 - 07:46am PT
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Ah, thank you.
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