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BBA
Social climber
petaluma ca
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 16, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
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The 9th Ascent of the Sentinel - Salathe Route
Someone asked about Jeff Foott and Bill Amborn’s (BBA) 9th ascent in August 1960 of the Salathe on Sentinel on another thread. For the history buffs, here we go…
I was in the Valley in late May 2008, falls roaring but the valley floor dusty as the lower levels of the Sierra had been dry this spring. Being a Golden Pass guy, I checked into Camp 4 for $2.50 a night – an outrageous price! As it was getting dark I was sitting on a table enjoying the warm air when a young climber came by and asked in a frog accent, “Have you been on Sentinel?” I said “yes”. He replied, “Did you see my headlamp? I left it up there.” I said, “No, it was 48 years ago I was up there.” He stopped, perhaps trying to figure if his English understanding was failing him or trying to do mental subtraction. We got in a great conversation about the Narrows and the climb in general, and it turned out he was from French speaking Belgium, not a real frog after all. I thought it was nice that such an understanding could pass between two people separated by so many years and from different cultures.
In 1960 the Salathe route on Sentinel wasn’t named that, it was just the North Face of Sentinel Rock. We hadn’t gotten to the cult of the personality yet, for if you name something after someone before, then you get to have something named after you. Pretty cool the way it works out for all us egotists.
Setting the stage. August 1960. Jeff was a 16 year old high school kid from Albany who was in the valley. By some accident of bad luck, he knew Roper. He had been climbing about 6 months. I (BBA) was in the valley for my third trip having been there in May and June for a total of a week or two doing the classics, Split Pinnacle, Cathedral Spires, Royal Arches. I was 19 and starting my junior year at Cal. I had been climbing for a year and a half, mostly at Stoney Point and some at Tahquitz while at UCLA. I had hitchhiked up with Lito Tejada-Flores a couple of days earlier from Berserkeley where we were students, and we had decided to climb YPB which Lito made into Wipee Butt ress. We were long on puns and short on conditioning. I had been working as a laborer for the Forest Service and Lito was doing whatever. But, even so we popped up YPB in a few hours and were down by lunch and only used one piton for direct aid. So that afternoon young Jeff comes up to me and says, on Rper's advice, “Hey Amborn, wanna climb Sentinel?”
What does a dumbster do but say “Yes”. So we got our gear together and figured it out. Four quarts of water for two days, a climbing rope and a quarter inch hauling rope, some food, whatever hardware the guys told us to bring and a sweatshirt for the noche. I had avoided 6th class climbing as a general rule and so Jeff was the expert on that area. The agreement was he got the headwall and I got the Narrows. A note about our water containers: I had a quart plastic bottle that made water taste like something mildly offensive. Jeff had a quart Boy Scout metal canteen, and we got a two quart metal canteen from someone else.
Late that afternoon we went up and put up the first pitch, then came down. Next morning we were up and at ‘em. I remember a lot of hard climbing and was always glad Jeff got the leads he did, and later he told me he was glad I got the ones I got. Go figure.
We had gone up a good ways when the big canteen sprung a leak due to banging around on the hauls so we had to drink it all down or watch it ooze away. Even in Yosemite in summer you can drink too much water, and after that I didn’t feel too hot. I don’t know about Jeff. The hauling got easier, though. We got to the top of the flying buttress OK and with enough spare light so Jeff could put up the headwall pitch and come down and we could settle down to suffer through a night sitting around waiting for dawn.
Next morning we got going up to the Narrows. At the Narrows it was my lead and I went up as best I could, but I relaxed at the wrong moment and plummeted out and down. As I came out my feet somehow went forward and I was in excellent chimney position, stopped pretty much even with Jeff who had a shocked expression. The thought of going outside was too much to bear, so I went at it again and struggled up. This error on my part wasted a lot of time. We continued up and at one point I thought to myself, “How odd, this rock is sticky!” I was oozing blood onto the rock as my lack of conditioning, especially fingers, had led to complete wearing off of the fingertip skin. But you still gotta climb.
We got to the top and the sun was going down. Jeff pulled it out and pissed on top of Sentinel while making appropriate comments. It was moonless so we got stuck in the huge talus and had to stop and crash again. Made it back early in the morning to Camp 4.
Best climb of my life. And I will always admire Jeff for his courage and steadfastness.
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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Nov 16, 2008 - 08:53pm PT
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great story Bill. Makes it real somehow.
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ß Î Ø T Ç H
climber
Last >>
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Nov 16, 2008 - 10:09pm PT
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Thanks for the story . You got nice writing style too . Old-school Yosemite climbing is alive and kicking on Supertopo Forum !
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Nov 16, 2008 - 10:22pm PT
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Feckin' A Bill, that was great!!
It was a few years later, but that's how my earliest adventures "felt" in my head.
Thanks for layin' it down!!
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Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
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Nov 17, 2008 - 12:02am PT
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Awesome tale. Still remember my first trip up that with Jim Orey in '71. Kicked our asses.
JL
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 17, 2008 - 12:09am PT
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Thanks, Bill - that's very nice!
I suppose it would be impertinent to now create new routes in the Valley, naming them after all the pioneers who have not so far been so recognized.
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Mungeclimber
Trad climber
sorry, just posting out loud.
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Nov 17, 2008 - 12:39am PT
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Another quality Taco Stand addition!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 17, 2008 - 08:38am PT
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Now that's a cool story you couldn't find anywhere else -- Sentinel in 1960!
Back before even my time.
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Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:10am PT
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Great story, Bill. And a great climb. Dave Bircheff and I did the route late in our climbing lives, when we were really fit and expericenced. We were up and down in a longish day, but I remember both of us being exhausted.
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scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:49am PT
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Thanks for the great account, Bill.
It kicked my butt pretty hard just this year.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:55am PT
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Thanks for the story Bill,
Zander
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Jim E
climber
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Nov 17, 2008 - 11:11am PT
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Great story and the telling.
Now I have another route to add to my 'someday' list.
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PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
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Nov 17, 2008 - 11:55am PT
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Great history, Bill. Brings it all back. That wonderful climb has meant so much to so many young climbers.
Phil
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Nov 17, 2008 - 12:49pm PT
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Very nice BBA!
Although born in August of 1960, I had one of those canteens, maybe even identical item; shaped like a thick wafer and came with a drab green cotton cover. Probably the same Boy Scout issue for 30 years.
Jeff Foott climbing that thing at 16: few 16-year-olds have the sort of physical constitution and stamina required to match such a route, never mind the technical prowess.
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Hardly Visible
climber
Port Angeles
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Nov 17, 2008 - 04:44pm PT
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Another classic from the wayback machine!
Thanks BBA
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Fletcher
Trad climber
Max V02
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Nov 17, 2008 - 05:47pm PT
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Excellent!
It was still a tad shy of two years before I would plop out on this planet.
I think I had one of those canteens at some point too. Also one of those ribbed plastic jobs with the attach screw cap (EMS).
Sentinel has long been on my list. Gotta get in a bit better form still. Maybe I'll do it when I'm 51 since I think that was how old Salathe was on the first ascent. He used to seem like such the old guy but not anymore!
Fletch
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Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
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Nov 17, 2008 - 06:12pm PT
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That story reminds me a lot of my ascent with Chris Fredericks, in fall 1964. I'm working on a new book and, mostly for fun, and in one little chapter I spent about ten pages detailing that Sentinel experience with Chris. I think we all are blessed to do such climbs, to have been with such people in such an amazing place...
We often read about the main players, but I find it really interesting and compelling to read about others who were there as well, in that golden age. I can see a book of all their stories and memories... I wish someone could put something like that together. Or each person write his own memoirs, and collect everyone's into a big encyclopedia...or something.
Pat
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the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
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Nov 17, 2008 - 06:27pm PT
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Great story. The adventure level was so much higher back then, impressive.
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Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
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Nov 17, 2008 - 07:14pm PT
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"Next morning we got going up to the Narrows. At the Narrows it was my lead and I went up as best I could, but I relaxed at the wrong moment and plummeted out and down. As I came out my feet somehow went forward and I was in excellent chimney position, stopped pretty much even with Jeff who had a shocked expression. The thought of going outside was too much to bear, so I went at it again and struggled up. "
Yup, that outside passage is supposed to be a good plan but it just looks "too much to bear!"
Peace
Karl
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
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Nov 17, 2008 - 10:51pm PT
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Foott and BBA teasing me as usual!
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Nov 17, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
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Gee - I was at the world's fair in Seattle in 1962. We stopped there en route to Vancouver. I barely remember it, but am told that I was quite upset that my father (an engineer) got to go up the Space Needle, but I didn't.
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'Pass the Pitons' Pete
Big Wall climber
like Ontario, Canada, eh?
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Nov 18, 2008 - 12:35am PT
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Thanks for a ripping yarn!
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rockermike
Mountain climber
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Nov 18, 2008 - 01:23am PT
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Seattle Worlds Fair, I was there too. My grandma took my mom up but not the kids. Funny how such injustice stays with you. ha ha
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jul 30, 2010 - 01:22pm PT
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Seems like a good time for a BUMP
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Jul 30, 2010 - 02:31pm PT
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Awesome story. Thanks for bumping that Guido. I hadn't seen it. The taco has some great stuff hidden in its recesses. I hated those old canteens. The water tasted terrible. And we have such great water here in the park. Metallic water, or plastic hell. haha..
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Double D
climber
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Jul 30, 2010 - 02:46pm PT
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Sweet tale indeed. Thanks for the bump.
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Jul 30, 2010 - 02:48pm PT
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I missed this one too. What a great little tale of youthful adventure.
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dee ee
Mountain climber
citizen of planet Earth
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Jul 30, 2010 - 03:39pm PT
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What a cool story.
I climbed it in August '74 with "Rubideau" Jim Wilson. We were both 17 and it was our first "big" Yosemite route. We wanted to bivvy and so hand hauled a pack and bivvied near the top of the 7th pitch. I led the headwall pitch (clean aid) and Jim got the Narrows. I was SO tired after leading the last pitch I could barely coil the rope on top. Man, were we stoked to be on top.
We did a bunch of classic free climbs afterward with Matt Cox, Sean Curtis and Larry Zulim including Outer Limits, La Cosita (right side), Midterm, Limbo Ledge, Little John, 1st p. New Dimensions and Grack Marginal. Larry did his first 5.8 (Little John) and first 5.9 (La Cosita)on the same day.
It was a great trip.
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survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
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Jul 30, 2010 - 03:50pm PT
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Larry did his first 5.8 (Little John) and first 5.9 (La Cosita)on the same day.
And he's still at it today. 50 weekends last year, rumor has it....
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BooDawg
Social climber
Paradise Island
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Jul 30, 2010 - 05:33pm PT
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Thanks for the Bump, Guido; I hadn't seen this one before. Classic pic of Foott & Amborn, your pals from your teens.
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the kid
Trad climber
fayetteville, wv
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Jul 30, 2010 - 06:24pm PT
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Sic story Bill.
Especially when i think of the "rack" and "harness" that was state of the art in 1960!
keep those stories alive and well here on ST and bust out the scanner and get to it..
Kurt
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C4/1971
Trad climber
Depends on the day...
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Jul 30, 2010 - 06:27pm PT
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Nice post. Roger, I talked with Dave Bircheff a while back. The boy has no interest in computers though...
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Jun 21, 2011 - 09:10pm PT
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BBA & Footski Bump.
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nutjob
Gym climber
Berkeley, CA
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Jun 22, 2011 - 02:06pm PT
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Wow, I missed this the first go-around. Nice bump!
I can strongly relate to this part:
The thought of going outside was too much to bear, so I went at it again and struggled up.
I just held onto a sopping wet fist jam / armbar in the back for dear life.
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HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
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Apr 23, 2014 - 03:26pm PT
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BUMP
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JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
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Apr 23, 2014 - 04:00pm PT
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We need to bump this periodically. At least I can say I was alive when you made the ascent, but I failed to get up the Half Dome cables in 1960 because I couldn't reach high enough -- and I was scared to death.
John
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BBA
climber
OF
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 23, 2014 - 07:48pm PT
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your f*#kina this gets a bump. thanx John
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Johannsolo
climber
Soul Cal
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Apr 23, 2014 - 07:56pm PT
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I did the SS with the late Sue Nott close to 15 years ago. I remember it like it just happened yesterday. Sue did a great job for not having much rock experience. That was one of the best ROctobers I spent in the Valley.
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 23, 2014 - 10:07pm PT
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Totally hardcore BBA! Your tale is a priceless share . . . thank you so much.
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Apr 23, 2014 - 11:05pm PT
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I love this old sh#t.
Always fun to put things in perspective. Foot and Amborn were my look-up-to and go-to, older bro partners during the early 60s.
Our heroes and mentors back then were old men. Chouinard was 23, Robbins was 25, and the old man on the block was Steck, at a whooping 33. El Cap had only one route, 2 years prior, with the 2nd ascent only weeks away. The SS was a Classic and a major route as it still is today.
Look ahead to the year 2068 and the time lapse between now and then and you will get another tangible perspective. Only, things seem to move in light years now on a developmental and psychological level compared to the early 60s.
Some early photos of Footski and BBA, aka Bitchin Bill Amborn:
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Kalimon
Social climber
Ridgway, CO
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Apr 23, 2014 - 11:25pm PT
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Awesome Guido! Hope you are doing well.
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Dennis Hennek
climber
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Apr 24, 2014 - 12:10am PT
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Thanks BBA, i always love the old stories from BITD
and this has to be one of the best.
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Blakey
Trad climber
Sierra Vista
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Apr 24, 2014 - 04:34am PT
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Absolutely super stuff. I so want to do this climb, but never seem to get around to it.....
Some day!
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Double D
climber
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Apr 24, 2014 - 09:15am PT
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Pure gold... thanks Bill.
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kaholatingtong
Trad climber
Nevada City
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Apr 24, 2014 - 09:43am PT
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this is good.
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donini
Trad climber
Ouray, Colorado
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Apr 24, 2014 - 11:25am PT
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Pricesless photos Guido and great story Bill! I see Jeff every year or so and Lito is my neighbor in Patagonia. Jeff just had a hip repacement and is doing well.
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NutAgain!
Trad climber
South Pasadena, CA
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Apr 24, 2014 - 02:50pm PT
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Nice to read this all over again and hear it just as if it was the first time. It soothes my ego a bit to know that even badasses considered this a big adventure. I just got a tinge of longing to head back up there. I'm getting back into normal handjam shape, but no practice on wide stuff for quite a while.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 24, 2014 - 06:53pm PT
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BBA... that was so good, post more please.
I started in 1973... after about 3 mounths of Stoney we went to the Valley..... BBA, Guido, and Bosch, were the subjects of many of the Stoney stories.... Chounard, Robbins and Warren were gods.
Ahhhh the old days.....
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BBA
climber
OF
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Topic Author's Reply - Apr 25, 2014 - 12:19pm PT
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I could add the aftermath. Jeff and I got back to Camp 4 where he crashed. I was pretty high about the whole thing, washed up a bit and decided a fitting reward for my achievement would be doughnuts at Degnan’s, lots of them. I set out to walk over saying to myself, and perhaps out loud, “mfer, you did Sentinel!” and other things of that sort, but somewhere near Swan Slab I became so woozy I laid down in the warm pine needles by the trail and fell sound asleep – perhaps passed out is the right description.
People use the trail from Camp 4 to the Village a lot, but no one gave me a nudge to see if I was alive, or if they did I responded like a slug to a stimulus with some slight movement. When I woke up the sun told me it was after noon, so hamburger, fries and chocolate shake would have to do. Brushed the pine needles off and the adventure was concluded.
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Reilly
Mountain climber
The Other Monrovia- CA
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Apr 25, 2014 - 01:04pm PT
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I wish I wasn't claustrophobic, or a woosie.
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guyman
Social climber
Moorpark, CA.
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Apr 25, 2014 - 01:32pm PT
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BBA... you hit the WALL.
I have passed out before at the base of Swan Slab.... but not from to much climbing.
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Willoughby
Social climber
Truckee, CA
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Apr 25, 2014 - 01:51pm PT
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Awesome stuff! I think y'all are burying the lead though. Did I read that correctly? Did you fall out of the Narrows?!?! I wouldn't think that were possible, unless you were quite a skinny fella.
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Dolomite
climber
Anchorage
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Apr 25, 2014 - 01:54pm PT
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"By some accident of bad luck, he knew Roper." Too much! Thanks for bumping this one, it's awesome.
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KP Ariza
climber
SCC
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Apr 25, 2014 - 02:26pm PT
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Really great accounts and photos!
Thanks, and how about an encore!
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Darwin
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
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Apr 26, 2014 - 12:59am PT
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Just a simple: THANK YOU for posting this. I read it many times.
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Rhodo-Router
Gym climber
sawatch choss
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Apr 26, 2014 - 01:18am PT
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It's cool how the Salathe route was pivotal for so many people throughout the generations. thanks BBA!
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guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
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Sep 15, 2015 - 12:25pm PT
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Bump dah Chump day............
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