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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 13, 2008 - 02:04pm PT
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…And The Boss Always Leads by Example!!!
Wanda Rutkiewicz (RIP) is regarded as one of the greatest woman mountaineers ever…
In 1986 she became the first woman to successfully climb K2:
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wanda_Rutkiewicz
Wanda:
Strong:
Pretty:
Women are PRETTY STRONG!
As we well know, They are all REALLY GREAT!!!
So show us the exemplary…
Gals: Who’s your inspiration???
Guys: Who’s the One???
Show us who’s Boss, who takes the lead?
Who’s the Femmme-tastic Leading Example in Your Life???!!!
(climbing, non climbing, what-evah….)
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
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Previous Treats:
Women Rock! : Time to Celebrate, (round 1)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=233770&f=0&b=0
Women Totally Rock! : Pix of Chix, (round 2)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=234994&f=35&b=0
Women Rock On! : Viva Grrrl Power, (round 3)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=236344&f=0&b=0
Women Rock! : Keep That Majik Alive, (round 4)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=237388&f=0&b=0
Women Rock! : Dance On, (round 5)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=238490&f=0&b=0
Women Rock! : Steppin’ Up With Style…(round 6)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=239289&f=0&b=0
Women Rock! : “Finesse = Fantastique” (magical round 7)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=240940&f=0&b=0
Women Rock! : “2,4,6,8 Who Do We Appreciate”…(round 8)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=243320&f=35&b=0
Women Rock! : “You Know It’s Thah Truth”…(round 9)
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=245670
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 13, 2008 - 02:05pm PT
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Here’s Mine,
Lisa Goldsmith, my wife……and you darn well know: SHE’S BOSS!!!
Photos in Austria,
Before she took 5th place…at the World Master’s Mtn Running Championships, 2007:
Photo at Bursa, Turkey, World Mtn Running Championships 2006,
Where Lisa with her US Teammates took the GOLD MEDAL!!!
Photo from Pike’s Peak Ascent, 13.32 miles, 7,815’ vertical gain ….
Lisa Goldsmith, 1st place Woman, 2005, 2006.
Lisa Goldsmith, 2nd place Woman, 2007, 2008.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 13, 2008 - 03:24pm PT
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Loomis
climber
*_*
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Nov 13, 2008 - 03:48pm PT
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The lovely Jessica Smith, bouldering at Spangler Hills, California.
And hard at work, during a photo shoot.
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Nov 13, 2008 - 03:49pm PT
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Christa taking a break from being the boss and taking advice from Tarbuster on her first crack climb. Indian Creek Turkey day 07
After falling on a clip up with the rope in her mouth. 3rd lead ever 10d. She sent the next day.
Pain meds.
Prod.
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quartziteflight
climber
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Nov 14, 2008 - 08:59am PT
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bump!
Tar,
It looks like Lisa's racing in flats. That pretty nar nar on such nasty trails...
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 14, 2008 - 09:04am PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2008 - 11:19am PT
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Yup Quartz,
Racing flats for events on trails that go primarily up, up, up & finish on a summit.
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 14, 2008 - 11:31am PT
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These are from 1975.
Molly Higgins somewhere on Nutcracker
Molly Higgins leading last pitch of Nutcracker
Two of her friends base of the Cookie wall
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 14, 2008 - 12:56pm PT
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Peter Haan...Yo!!!
Molly Higgins, 70's women...fresh shots...that's awesome input.
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philo
Trad climber
boulder, co.
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Nov 14, 2008 - 04:13pm PT
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Oh wow. TarB has done it again. A fine thread!
Wanda Rutkiewicz was one of my all time heros. What an amazing person who happened to also be quite a woman.
Here is my spousal unit at the crux of Green Spur in Eldo
And at the top of the West Buttress in Eldo
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 15, 2008 - 08:41am PT
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Philo -- she looks happy!
W Buttress and Green Spur, two of my favorite Eldo nines.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2008 - 11:59am PT
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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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Nov 15, 2008 - 03:55pm PT
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My girl proudly showing off her freshly amputated pinky finger.
and during happier, less painful times
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Nov 15, 2008 - 04:03pm PT
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Yow, what happened?
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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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Nov 15, 2008 - 04:12pm PT
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It was a hauling accident involving a Protraxion.
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Prod
Trad climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Nov 15, 2008 - 04:29pm PT
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Rudy,
Your gal is a bad ass! I remember that post, and I use a protraction. What exactely happened.
Prod.
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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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Nov 15, 2008 - 04:40pm PT
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Yes she is!!!
It was simply a momentary lapse of reason.
While I was space hauling the bags they became stuck. Juli being the go getter that she is started pulling on the loaded side of the haul system in an effort to free the bags. Bags came suddenly free and with my weight on the other end it pulled the rope through the Protraxion and her hand with it. She was very close to losing the next finger in line.
This summer I finally got all the blood out of the Protraxion, took 2 years.
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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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Nov 15, 2008 - 04:46pm PT
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No, I lost the finger tip during the subsequent bleeding, cursing and fainting. Keep in mind that this was 16 pitches up Lurking Fear.
Besides we didn't get to an Eroom for 28 hours after the fact. That was an adventure all in its own, if you have ever been to the Eroom in Modesto at 2AM you know what I am talking about.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 15, 2008 - 05:48pm PT
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"if you have ever been to the Eroom in Modesto at 2AM you know what I am talking about."
hahaha...
Let me guess, ...at the ER desk:
"Your wife might be Boss or Badass as you climbers say;
But it's not a gunshot or knife wound so get to the back of the line"
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Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
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Nov 15, 2008 - 10:44pm PT
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Oh No Tarbaby, don't start: you're awesome, sorry! Especially the spiffy trip to Europe. Holy mother whore as Roper used to say. What a cool thread that was. One thing out of line here though and I will bump it forth! I instantly felt "unworthy, unworthy" when you put it up as Tom from SLO likes to quote. Chic poignant and Now.
Yeah it is true, these are great shots of Molly. We were lovers for awhile. She is a very very wonderful woman and great climber.
best ph.
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G_Gnome
Trad climber
In the mountains... somewhere...
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Nov 15, 2008 - 11:27pm PT
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Great woman Roy. But the second photo has a scary resemblance to Mo. Are they twins? That would answer a lot!
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bob d'antonio
Trad climber
Taos, NM
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Nov 16, 2008 - 12:57am PT
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Not a climber but a wonderful mother, my wife for 34 years and best friend for 40 years.
Izamal, Mexico...just last week.
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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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Nov 16, 2008 - 08:57am PT
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"But it's not a gunshot or knife wound so get to the back of the line"
It was actually pretty surprising but it seemed like because it wasn't a knife or gunshot wound we got special treatment. It was a type of injury they don't see as often and most of the staff was genuinly interested. We were in and out in 2 hours. Which seemed very reasonable, but man that place was scary. Kind of place you just sit quietly in a corner and pray for humanity, and that no one notices you.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2008 - 10:17am PT
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And Rudy:
Topping out was more expedient than descending?
Either way, there she was, the whole complexion of the adventure changed, yet the climb went on.
G_Gnome:
hahaha!
Wanda DOES look a bit like Mo in that 2nd shot.
Bob D welcome back!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 16, 2008 - 10:21am PT
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Steelmonkey:
You lurking???
I'm looking for a cool shot of Robyn Erbesfield onsighting "Overdose" (5.13b), Lourmarin in Southern France.
NOT the one you'll find on the internet:
It is to be found in a later 80's R&I or Climbing.
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Rudyj2
Trad climber
UT
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Nov 16, 2008 - 11:20am PT
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And Rudy:
Topping out was more expedient than descending?
Tarbuster,
Good question. The fear of rappeling that distance and that many traversing pitches drove us on I am sure. There were parties above us as well for any assistance we might have needed,(i.e,fixed rope on the exit slab). Plus it was a hand injury after all and hiking seemed more pleasant for her than rappeling. The night on top was unforgettable for sure, as was the visit to the Yos Eroom were a well earned dose of morphine was administered.
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Michael Hjorth
Trad climber
Copenhagen, Denmark
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Nov 16, 2008 - 04:38pm PT
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Wanda after a lecture in Copenhagen, 1991, a few months prior to her final expedition. She had a very powerful aura.
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 17, 2008 - 11:28pm PT
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Allison leading the way towards Castleton:
And... leading up it, too! Heading up the first pitch:
GO
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Todd Gordon
Trad climber
Joshua Tree, Cal
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Nov 18, 2008 - 04:13am PT
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The girl for me.......(with the twins Lake and Von...)...Andrea;
although I'm the boss...(She lets me be....)
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Nov 18, 2008 - 08:50am PT
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Ahhh
Castleton Tower. . .what an awesome place.
North Chimney, fun route!!!
Good job, Allison!
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GOclimb
Trad climber
Boston, MA
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Nov 18, 2008 - 12:36pm PT
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Yep, Allison was awfully brave to be the one to take the first step on what wound up being a pretty hard undertaking for us both.
GO
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 09:58pm PT
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Nice stuff kids!
Mick knows who's boss:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 10:00pm PT
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Sheridan Anderson cartoon,
From Royal Robbins Basic/Advanced Rock Craft books.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 10:02pm PT
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Diana Hunter, leading the crux 5.11 face moves on "Wide Country", The Bastille,
from CLIMB!
Women Climbers of the 70's:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 10:02pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 10:03pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 10:03pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 10:04pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 10:04pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 10:04pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 10:06pm PT
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Any of you's 60s guys who've been posting up got any stories about the WOMEN???
70's guys ...stories...pictures???
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 10:09pm PT
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...plus, there could be some commentary on the last paragraph in that text!
“Women rock climbers are hampered by a lack of arm and shoulder strength on strenuous climbs”…. “In the future, it seems likely that more women will continue to do harder climes,and there will undoubtedly come a time when women will develop important new routes”
Ha!
Like: "It Goes Boys"
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Nov 18, 2008 - 10:20pm PT
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Nice barrage of photos and text Roy! Love seeing the classic photos.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 18, 2008 - 11:38pm PT
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Ha!!!
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mastadon
Trad climber
Tahoe
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Let's bring this one back on track. Here's a little 70's climber vixen, now PhD professor behind the Gassineering Station in Tuolumne.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Dec 6, 2008 - 11:08pm PT
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Annie Tarver!!!
'Even pulled off chewin' tobacco with 'CUTES...
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chez
Social climber
chicago ill
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connie hilliard shot, pure style.
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Melissa
Gym climber
berkeley, ca
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A million thanks for that heap of inspiration.
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healyje
Trad climber
Portland, Oregon
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Diana Hunter! There's a name and image I haven't heard or seen in decades. What a visage, what a woman.
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mastadon
Trad climber
Tahoe
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Wait, there's more: Annie sucking down her favorite brew-
Dollin' up for a night out. She drove all the stables cowboys crazy!
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Double D
climber
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That tabacca spitten girl was a crack up...thanks for the pics. Had the mouth to back up the chewing too if I remember right.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 12:28pm PT
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Bump for Wanda & all the rockin' gals...
Maybe now that Jello is back in the house: Jeff, how bout a few words on Wanda?
from Climbing 6/2002
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Spent a really interesting evening in Torino, Italy, once, with Wanda. We were there for one of Messner's "White Wilderness" conferences. Many of the invited guests were hanging out late one evening in the Hotel bar. Wanda and I got into an intense conversation that went on into the wee hours. She didn't seem to have a great sense of humor - nor did she seem to need one. Whether the conversation was focused on being a top woman climber and the attendant responsibilities to her gender, or the idea of climbing in pure alpine style in the Himalaya, Wanda lasered in on the subject with a seriousness I've encountered with few other climbers. She reminded me a bit of Lynn Hill in that respect, although I've seen Lynn get a little silly and giggly; something I never witnessed with Wanda. I was left with the impression that she was very aware of her role in openning new opportunities for women in climbing. Wanda was a professional, totally devoted to her sport: strong, beautiful, worthy of and demanding complete respect. We agreed that when both of our schedules allowed, we would get together for a climb. But there was just a hint of a lonesome sadness at the edges, a vulnerability that began to appear in the corners of her eyes at 1:00 am, just before we bade each other goodnight, retiring to our respective chambers. I was looking forward to continuing to get to know this woman whose currents ran so obviously deep, but alas, it was not to be, as Wanda perished just a few months later.
-Jello
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
The American West
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Some great photos of a High Sierra beauty (and I'll be crucified if she sees these...)
On Positive Vibes
On the same route
Chilling at the lakes, preparing for the Harding Rte on Conness.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 11:09pm PT
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Thanks for that tidbit Jeff!
I hoped you'd have a little kernel there for us...
Alpine rock friend!
Yeah baby!!!
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alpinerockfiend
Trad climber
The American West
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Thanks tarbuster, nailed it.
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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Hey Roy
Thanks for keeping it going. Wanda, what can you say.
And to 'hear' about Jello's meeting her.
Wow!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Feb 7, 2009 - 11:41pm PT
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DGirly:
When I was just learning how to strap on them' crampons, Arlene Blum was going strong.
Fun to check out the link!
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Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
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bump this too, and if you don't look at rounds 1 thru 9, I'll bump those too!
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