4th of Peter Croft's four big free climbs of the Hi Sierra

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crazyfingers

climber
CA
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 8, 2008 - 08:56pm PT
Every time I use the forum search, I get back nothing close to what I searched for. So, here's the question:
What is the fourth route to Peter Croft's list of the big High Sierra free climbs?

Red Dihedral on the Incredible Hulk
Harding Route on the Keeler Needle
Dark Star on Temple Crag
????
Tradboy

Social climber
Valley
Nov 8, 2008 - 09:02pm PT
Harding Route on Conness
enjoimx

Big Wall climber
SLO Cal
Nov 9, 2008 - 01:10am PT
Also called "The South Face of mt Conness
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 9, 2008 - 07:26am PT
hey there crazyfingers and all... say, could some of you all post some pics of these routes... i learn better by "seeing" and it would be really neat to see these routes...

hope so, and thanks so very much, just in case...

say---also, just wondering:

1--can you list HOW long it took to DO each of these routes as a free climb...

2--are these routes done other ways, than a free climb (as i did look up the terms once, but i am not sure who does what, and why, or when)--and if so (as i think they would have been, but i am just guessing), how long does it usually take? and:
3--do many folks do them, and
4--how often?

thanks, i just though the way you set up the question was very interesting and i wanted to learn more...


*i may not retain the info, too, long, but i realy am interestted and want to learn... (i just dont have time to study and retain specific details right now, in my life) but---they will be little treasure, what ever you DO share...

thanks again...
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 10, 2008 - 09:51pm PT
hey there... just curious still... bummp...
Bill

climber
San Francisco
Nov 10, 2008 - 10:02pm PT
1--can you list HOW long it took to DO each of these routes as a free climb...

Red Dihedral, a couple of hours, Dark Star probably 8 hours. Haven't climbed the other two, but I would expect to spend 5 or 6 hours on Conness and 6 or 8 on Keeler. Lots of people are faster. Each can be climbed in a day from the car by a fast party, but most people hike in and bivy, then climb and hike out the next day.

2--are these routes done other ways, than a free climb

Lots of people probably end up pulling on a piece or two (A0), but just about everyone plans on climbing them free.

3--do many folks do them, and

Lots

4--how often?

Red Dihedral probably gets climbed every good weather day from June till early September. The rest I would guess get maybe a couple of dozen ascents each season.

Oh, yeah, and for pics, search summitpost.com.
neebee

Social climber
calif/texas
Nov 10, 2008 - 10:23pm PT
hey there bill... say, thanks so very much! ... will do... first, sadly, i have to go to SLEEP... i am not used to getting up for early hours... i used to work afternoons and evenings...

these last few months have been hard for me...

say, thank you so very much for helping me out here.... i enjoy learning all this... i know i won't remember it all, but it is still very special... very kind of you to step in here...

all for now... :)
scuffy b

climber
On the dock in the dark
Nov 11, 2008 - 02:31pm PT
Bill says:

Lots of people are faster.


It's fair to say that lots of people are slower, as well,
including some decent/OK climbers.
sibylle

Trad climber
On the road again!
Nov 11, 2008 - 09:16pm PT
For some slow times -
The late Tom Dunwiddie and I did the S. Face of Conness in about 1976. We hiked in on day 1, fixed one or two pitches; bivvied, and climbed the route the next day.

The late Walter Rosenthal and I climbed Temple Crag in about 1979 in a day, car-to-car, but hiked out partly in the dark.

Dave Evans and I climbed Keeler in 1978. We hiked in, bivvied, and climbed the route in a day the next day, easily getting back down to our bivvy site during daylight.
I hope to climb the Red Dihedral soon; it's been on my list. Planning on climbing this one with my son.

Most of the above should now go faster, since we had no cams or sticky rubber then ... I can do some routes way faster now than I could in the 70s.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 11, 2008 - 09:21pm PT
Fred and I climbed Keeler in 17 hrs, car to car.

Somewhat less (14hrs?) ctc for Conness. Though probably half the climbing time as on Keeler.
Marshall

climber
bay area
Nov 12, 2008 - 12:06am PT

aww, come on, i bet folks have sweet photos of these routes..

here's a few from Dark Star.
more or less follows sun/shade line up the bigass front buttress:


heading up into the short chimney around p6. note looseness, death blocks


start of the second buttress, about halfway up the route. note banded craprock


some raps somewhere along the way


looking down on the upper buttress from where you top out. the entirety of what you see here is about 1/3rd of the total route.


temple crag from the bristlecones. you can see the lower and upper dark star buttresses in profile if you look close
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 12, 2008 - 12:10am PT
Thanks Marshall, cool stuff.
Bill

climber
San Francisco
Nov 12, 2008 - 12:32am PT
In case it wasn't clear, I as talking about time roped up on the rock. If I was planning to climb Keeler in 6 to 8 hours from the car, I would be in for a serious reality check!

So for the OP, these climbs are going to be a full day of hiking and climbing for most people.

"I can do some routes way faster now than I could in the 70s."

You'll probably climb them even faster in the 30s if technology keeps up.
Jaybro

Social climber
wuz real!
Nov 12, 2008 - 12:36am PT
Anyone know what Walt's car to car solo times on those routes were? I know that's not what you were talking about, Bill, but your post put that thought in my head.
altieboo

Sport climber
Das Blase
Aug 16, 2013 - 01:10pm PT
BUMP to refresh this awesome thread, bucketlist linkup. Anyone else have any rad images they can contribute?
altieboo

Sport climber
Das Blase
Aug 16, 2013 - 01:17pm PT
A pretty cool short write up about finishing the Big 4, CTC, in a week. http://kenetzel.tumblr.com/post/56098315524/luke-zachmann-and-tony-chang-received-a-live-your
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Aug 16, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
Pretty wild that Croft onsight soloed all of these routes.
RyanD

climber
Squamish
Dec 30, 2013 - 05:22pm PT
Big 4 bump
survival

Big Wall climber
Terrapin Station
Dec 30, 2013 - 05:29pm PT
It's fair to say that lots of people are slower, as well,
including some decent/OK climbers.


Agreed. It was in the waaay back machine of 1985, but it took Lesher and I from dark til dark to do S. Face of Conness from car to car. Both of us were 5.11 climbers, but it's a big hike, a big mountain, and a big route. I don't have any idea what our exact time on the stone was, but suffice it to say it was a big day!
Jebus H Bomz

climber
Peavine Basecamp
Dec 30, 2013 - 05:36pm PT
Nice fotes Marshall had there of Dark Star. Climbed into sickness on that one since I'd been teetering on the edge before. Coming back to camp expended, feverish, I ate a cliff bar, finished maybe a quarter liter of water since I was too lazy to filter the lake and went fully clothed into my bivy to "sleep" a restless sleep. The hallucinations worked really well to distract from the pain of a sore throat and wrecked body.

My hat's off to those who c2c that stuff! More motivated than I!
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