Discussion Topic |
|
This thread has been locked |
| Messages 1 - 93 of total 93 in this topic |
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 2, 2008 - 02:56pm PT
|
During a summer back in the States, I was able to sort and scan a number of boxes of climbing memorabilia that had been sitting idle for many years. What the rats and water leaks left behind, was a vast wealth of letters, clippings, slides and black and white photos that survived the neglect and inattention of many years. One original Ansel Adams 8x10 print was destroyed by a leaky roof. Damn, could have used that to pay for my daughter’s college education!
One of the sad truths of climbing in the early 60s is that very few climbers carried cameras. Some of my prints are from 110 film, others 35 mm and numerous are half-frame 35mm! All the cameras were primitive, hand-me-downs, or, one of my favorites, a Petri half-frame 35mm that Foott and I found in the back country. Simultaneouly we both made a dive for it. So we had to share it. Our deal was you could only use it on one climb and then you had to pass pass it along. From this shaky start Foott went on to become one of the finest wildlife photographers in the country.
The following is a short history of the first ascent of Coonyard Pinnacle. Although I climbed it numerous times over the years, nothing could compare to being on the first ascent with two really classic climbers from that era. Amborn, built more like a fullback in pro football, was a master on small holds and glacial polished slabs. He made a lot of noise, grunts and sighs but was a pleasure to watch. Calderwood, with his first ascent of Arches Terrace in 1957, had established himself early on as an excellent slab climber. I was a young kid along for the ride.
In Sept 1960, Bill Amborn, Rich Calderwood and I Joe McKeown, made the first ascent of Coonyard Pinnacle. Amborn, better known as BBA or “Bitchin Bill Amborn” was 19. Calderwood was 21 and I was a wee lad of 14. Still wet behind the ears they said. I had acquired the name “Little Joe” to differentiate from Joe Fitschen or “Big Joe” in Camp 4.
Amborn was the visionary that first conceived of a route above Monday Morning Slab onto the “blank” upper reaches of the vast Apron. We put up the first pitch one afternoon using aid to place two protection bolts. Returning the next day with Rich Calderwood we were able, except for one pendulum, to push the route free up 500 ft to a small pinnacle we named Coonyard. The only bolts placed were the two on the first pitch for protection. On the first ascent, on pitch #4, I believe, we made a long 80 ft pendulum left across a smooth wall that brought us several pitches below Coonyard. This is the section that Sacherer and Ostin climbed a year later for the FFA.
We named the pinnacle after Yvon whose name was mis-pronounced by some Gunk climber when Chouinard was in New York. Something along the lines of “You must be the Great Coonyard?” said in an irreverent way as only a Vulgarian could. Dave Brower, Sierra Club Bulletin Editor at the time, would not allow names of people to be associated with geographic locations while the person was still alive, so we honored Chouinard with the New York pseudonym.
On the second ascent of Coonyard, our original ascent party along with Mort Hempel and Chouinard managed to climb 400 ft above Coonyard. In October, Amborn returned with a young Jeff Foott, then 16 years old. The two had climbed the Steck-Salathe on Sentinel in September for what I believe was the 9th ascent. In the early 60s, the SS was considered a litmus test for whether or not you had arrived as a climber. They were able to push the route above Coonyard to within one pitch of the Oasis at the top of the Apron. No bolts were placed.
Climbing in T-shirts, unfamiliar with the Glacier Point Terrace descent route and unwilling to bivouac, Amborn and Foott headed back down the route with only one 150 ft Goldline. They had left a rope at the pendulum. Amborn recalls,“It was pitch black when we got to where you traverse back to get above Monday Morning Slab, and that is where Jeff, following and downclimbing, had a spectacular rolling pendulum type freefall. You could see the sparks and smell the ozone from the hardware hitting the rock. It was rather pretty except for Jeff’s grunts and ‘Oh God’ profanities. The most eerie memory is of all the bears at the dumps and us walking through there in the blackness and all these dark, shadowy figures about.” I remember there was a party that night and Foott had happily traded a cold bivouac for a night of classic Camp 4 debauchery.
In September Kor arrived for his first visit to the valley and he and Chouinard in late October teamed up to complete the route to the Oasis. Yvon asked BBA if he would mind if they did the route to the
Oasis. BBA said “sure, for the rock belongs to no one and I don’t want to appear as a ‘siege’ climber.” Yvon and Kor completed the climb to the Oasis but in the process placed a number of bolts. BBA was especially upset about a bolt placed at what we called “the Step”, the first move off the ledge which begins the last part straight up to Coonyard. BBA subsequently chopped that bolt. “Yvon said he did it for safety and considering his size in comparison to Kor, I can understand that if he was the belayer”.
Two years later, Amborn joined the Army, buried all his gear in the talus above Camp 4 and never really climbed again in Yosemite. Years later, following his intricate but complicated treasure map, I was able to locate and retrieve his gear.
In 1962 Bob Kamps and I, after climbing the classic Harding route on the west side of the Apron joined the Oasis with the rim via a route we named The Hinterland. Some of the early dangers involved with the Apron had little to do with the climbing itself. Nothing like a garbage can flung off the railing at Glacier Point to wake you up. Or the approach ritual of dodging the bears at the old dumps below the Apron. There was always a fire smoldering, smoke rising and bears cruising.
Sorry about the poor quality of the photos. After surmounting the learning curve of just posting photos I need a breather before “messing about” with Photoshop and the likes.
Bitchin Bill Amborn following 2nd pitch
Calderwood leading 2nd pitch
Calderwood belaying start of 2rd pitch
Amborn leading the 3rd pitch
Calderwood "messing about" on the pendulum
Summit Coonyard Sept 1960, Rich Calderwood and Bill Amborn
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
Man that is some stuff too!!!
Supertopo rides again...
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
"Amborn returned with a young Jeff Foott, then 16 years old. The two had climbed the Steck-Salathe on Sentinel in September for what I believe was the 9th ascent."
So, Foott was a bit of a prodigy too?
That had to be something (Steck-Salathe at 16)...
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
Thanks, Joe! A nice story and photos.
If nothing else, I'm sure the YCA, Ken and the museum would have a home for such memorabilia, especially if photos were labelled with who/what/where etc.
Funny, I remember all sorts of bears around Camp 4 in the 1970s, entertaining us and wreaking havoc. And a big production in terms of hanging food etc. But I may have been impressionable - Valley regulars may not have thought much of it.
|
|
PhilG
Trad climber
The Circuit, Tonasket WA
|
|
Wonderful post.
Great story and the photos are perfect for capturing the feelings of climbing on the Apron in those days.
Thanks Joe.
|
|
Carolyn C
Trad climber
the long, long trailer
|
|
What a great story and photos! The photos brought back some good memories of days gone by. Thanks for posting this.
|
|
ron gomez
Trad climber
fallbrook,ca
|
|
GREAT POST!! Thanks a million, brought back some great memories of the route, did it with Dave Wonderly and others in the early 80's. Some really cool photos, post up more stuff like that....we LOVE it!
Peace
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Great retro trip report, Joe! Thanks for sharing.
And thanks for explaining where the aid was (pendulum) on the FA.
FA at age 14, that is pretty darn cool.
What kind of shoes did you use? Kronhofers?
Link to my photos of a recent ascent, plus BBA's recollections:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbing/thread.html?topic_id=659883
The climb is really about the same, although we have some belay bolts in place, instead of hammering our own pitons.
I might need to clip that pendulum point next time to protect the crux traverse!
9/1960
8/2008
|
|
Hardly Visible
climber
Port Angeles
|
|
Great story Joe! I love this sort of thing.
Thanks for posting it up.
|
|
Largo
Sport climber
Venice, Ca
|
|
I could read those old trip reports forever!
Great stuff.
JL
|
|
Mike Bolte
Trad climber
Planet Earth
|
|
Well told Joe!! Thanks and keep the stories coming.
|
|
Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
|
|
Great Story Joe,
Thanks for posting. Really looking forward to more.
Zander
|
|
John Vawter
Social climber
San Diego
|
|
Thank you Joe. Great Stuff.
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
|
|
wow great post. I remember doing coonyard a long time ago. I thought the first pitch off of monday morning was 5.9 in eb's.....did you guys do this in the early sixties without any type of rubber?
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
hi Joe,
Nice write up and pictures. I like Yvon's bolt to protect against a Kor fall--great history.
Hope to see you at the Nose50th, if you are in the US.
Best, Roger
|
|
Clint Cummins
Trad climber
SF Bay area, CA
|
|
Marty,
> did you guys do this in the early sixties without any type of rubber?
They had rubber in the 1960s.
I tried some Kronhoffer boots in the mid-1970s, and they frictioned better than my EBs (not so good for crack climbing, though).
|
|
dogtown
climber
Where I once was,I think?
|
|
Man, thanks for posting up! I just eat that Historical stuff up.
|
|
bhilden
Trad climber
Mountain View, CA
|
|
Wow! Thanks Joe for an incredibly interesting slice of some of the most crucial moments in the history and development of rock climbing in Yosemite. You guys rock!
Bruce
ps - personally, I find this stuff way more interesting than 15-year old Adam Ondra clipping up some difficult sport route.
|
|
mongrel
Trad climber
Truckee, CA
|
|
GREAT POST! Having done most of the Coonyard route in the late 60s in slippery RDs, I can relate a bit.
Regarding footwear of the day, yes, some of those guys did those heinous climbs in the crappiest imaginable loose boots. But anyone lucky enough to have Kronhofers at that time knew they were decidedly not hiking boots except in appearance. Properly fitted, they were great climbing shoes; I and some others kept using them at least right up until the first Boreal Fires became popular, doing numerous routes of solid 5.10 or even 10+ at all areas from Tahquitz/Suicide to Cathedral Ledge and the Gunks. I am sure others climbed a good bit harder than that in them.
|
|
SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
|
|
Joe
Wonderful post. I'll certainly look forward to more of
your tales. Thanks for putting it up.
|
|
Karl Baba
Trad climber
Yosemite, Ca
|
|
Great post.
We have a new opportunity, via the net, to collect the stories of first ascents and subsequent epics big, small, and inbetween.
I'd encourage the old and mid-timers who have first ascent stories to write em down and include the culture and issues of the times so future generations can make sense of the evolution of our sport.
Peace
Karl
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
|
|
Clint, never climbed in them. My first climbing shoes we RD's I think....could have been PA's. When EB's came out I thought I had died and gone to heaven......
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 01:25pm PT
|
We were wearing Kronhofers at the time. I never liked the Spider of later years. When Robbins came out with his "Galabier Robbins" boots that is what I used. My theory contrasted with the staus quo. I felt with the "Robbins" I could max out the surface area which is critical of pure friction. I also had a chronic sprained rt ankle and enjoyed the comfort and support.
We used to do a bit of night time "buildering" on the UC Berkeley campus back them. Especially after a Sun evening dinner of the Sierra Rock Climbing session. Amply lubricated with cheap red wine we would venture out and climb. I remember one embarrassing encounter when we were "busted" by the UC police as we were making the leap from the roof of a ticket booth to a wall. They found our gallon stash of wine under Roper"s car, poured it out in front of us and commented, "you guys really drink this sh#t! "They called my mom and I got in some serious trouble at home. My parents took away my climbing shoes and I was not allowed to associate with the likes of Roper for some time. Since I was working part time at the Ski Hut, I just bought another pair and rendezvoused with Roper several blocks from my home whenever he could "borrow" his moms car. All seems quite funny and innocent by today's standard.
|
|
Brunosafari
Boulder climber
Redmond, OR
|
|
Your Mom took your climbing shoes!!!!!!
Now that really pisses me off!
|
|
martygarrison
Trad climber
The Great North these days......
|
|
My parents forbade me from climbing. Started when I was 15 so I just hid the climbing shoes and went "backpacking" every weekend in the valley.......They didn't catch on until I was 18 or so.
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 02:07pm PT
|
Ah, but you never want to mess with a wee Welsh lady when she is fighting mad. Let it settle for a spell. She had a heart of gold and was quick to forgive. Took a bit longer to forget.
|
|
Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
Supertopo is on a roll! These historical threads are the best.
|
|
BBA
Social climber
petaluma ca
|
|
If you read Clint's forum you'll see discrepancies between what Joe says and what I (BBA) said. OK, for the record Joe is always right. The problem with history is it isn't like science where you can replicate the experiment to find out if something is true. Once it's done that's it, but with history then you have all these people telling stories. Since we elect s---heads for president, it's obvious that majority rule means nothing as far as truth is concerned.
Related to the climb, the reason for the "pendulums" was one of my probably unsuccessful attempts to make fun of climbs that used them, especially the way some people wrote them up. They were not pendulums, more like tension traverses as one can see by how seriously Calderwood took it in Joe's photos. We had great fun on a nice, warm day in the Valley. Those were the days.
For shoes I had Klettershuh, a brand of German climbing shoe with suede top and a Vibram like bottom. They were not so hot for friction but not bad for edging. I was lucky in that my feet were very wide and this gave more square inches of friction surface available. On the Apron one flopped the foot on any spot that looked promising and went for it.
When I cruise the Supertopo I see a lot of cool stuff. Someone should make a book of it. They should include photos of me.
BBA
|
|
scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
|
|
Bitchin'
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 08:29pm PT
|
You have just been exposed to classic BBA
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
And how Guido!
Now Bill Amborn is posting up!?!!
(I see he's made three other forays into the super topo jungle so far...)
This is getting richer by the moment.
You guys have to know, we all live for this stuff here on this forum.
From time to time we sink into the doldrums.
Then, as providence might have it, guys such as yourselves show up.
I assure you... we are not worthy.
But we are all ears.
Roll it out boys!!!!!
OUTSTANDING.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
Joe and BBA, Great thread and a wonderful story.
We love it and yearn for more!
Thanks again,
Bruce B.
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
Read it all. It's really ALL been said on this Thread.
Enjoyed every moment. Thank you and god speed. Lynnie
Pretty Darn !!!!Incredible. Peace and Joy, Always.
|
|
survival
Big Wall climber
A Token of My Extreme
|
|
Bump for Joe.
|
|
crankenstein
Trad climber
Louisville, CO
|
|
Most excellent history! Much appreciated from the far reaches of lurkerdom.
More please!
|
|
Double D
climber
|
|
Great post Joe and thanks for the lens into the era.
Kletter shoes on the apron?... Ho man that's way hard core!
|
|
John Morton
climber
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2008 - 12:30am PT
|
Not to pick nits, but ... Klettershuhe (German for "climbing shoes") were all those gray suede things with lug soles. There were several brands, but what Bill had were probably Zillertals. Your choice at the Ski Hut was those or Spiders. Spiders were stiff and had Vibrams, but Zillertals had Marwa soles with slanty lugs, softer for a better smear. Kronhoffers had slanty lugs too, a different brand. I think you had to send to Gerry or Holubar in Colo. for Kronhoffers.
John
Just remembered I have nearly mint K's in the basement. They still look elegant to me, with those one-piece uppers.
|
|
BBA
Social climber
petaluma ca
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2008 - 01:18am PT
|
The klettershuh I had were first bought in 1958 in LA and did not have heels. They also had rather coarse suede tops, not as elegant as those in the picture above. I must have got some more when in Berkeley but don't remember if I mailed off for them or what. I never changed to another style.
|
|
murcy
climber
San Fran Cisco
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2008 - 01:39am PT
|
guido and bba, THANKS and please, more, more, more!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2008 - 02:46am PT
|
Thanks for posting this up, Little Joe. Absolutely classic. I first did this one way back in the day, by the book. Green book that is......
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2008 - 08:31pm PT
|
Joe,
Great report, photos, info. I love the history, can't
get enough of the old times, whereas modern climbing
mostly bores me to tears.
The only thing I could add would be the actual story
of the Coonyard name. That actually took place in
Boulder, at Castle Rock. Dave Rearick and Chouinard
were climbing. Chouinard was still shaky from his bad, long
fall in the Tetons and immediately backed off the climb
he was going to try. He told Dave, "I just can't do it. My
head is in a bad place." Right about this time, a fellow (I
know his name, but for the moment I'll not give it, maybe later, after I think about it...) happened by and asked if they knew of or had heard of the climber Coonyard... who was
supposed to be in the area. Even Yvon didn't at first know who the fellow was referring to. Then it dawned on Dave and
Yvon who the guy was talking about. They told the story a few times, and it got around and to Yosemite... If you doubt this account, you can contact Rearick in Boulder. He has an impeccable memory for these things.
All the best,
Pat Ament
|
|
paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2008 - 09:01pm PT
|
Seeing the old pair of Kronhoffers (sp?) brings back crazy memories of the late sixties early seventies. Because the toe leather was so thin, we used to coat the toe with fiberglass resin. The resin would fill up the area around the edge of the sole and made for incredible edging on the right rock. Those shoes were worthless on the apron, however, you might as well have a pair of rollerskates on. I'll never forget the first time I borrowed a pair of EBs there, it was like somebody turned the gravity off.
|
|
BBA
Social climber
petaluma ca
|
|
|
Nov 15, 2008 - 09:41pm PT
|
With due respect to Pat Ament, I was the one who named the "great" pinnacle and it was as a result of Chouinard telling the stories of his trip back to the Gunks in 1960. The original spelling was Cooñard, but that got lost by the wayside. I was well acquainted with Yvon from frequenting Stony Point and Tahquitz 1958-1960 where I often ran across him and bought hardware from him. If you can find him, ask. Guido knows, too.
|
|
Lynne Leichtfuss
Social climber
valley center, ca
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2008 - 12:21am PT
|
So Joe, Super great to meet you and "Liz" at the Nose Reunion...hehehe. I just re read this post and appreciate it more than the first time now that I've met ya.
Peace, Lynne
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2008 - 12:29am PT
|
Well I wouldn't argue with you, about who named what. I didn't say you didn't name it. I was only citing where Rearick said the "Coonyard" or however it is spelled name came into being. He was there when it happened, and he and Chouinard laughed about it. I do know Dave Rearick well, and I know what he told me, and never in my life has he ever exaggerated or ever been the slightest bit wrong when telling any kind of story of the old days of climbing. Chouinard went to the Gunks and to the Tetons and to Colorado during that time, and it could be possible Yvon made a simple mistake and forgot exactly which of the places that person coined his name in such a way. I mean, we're all human, and maybe... he remembered it as happening in the Gunks. But Rearick says it happened that day at Castle Rock, because he was there and saw and heard it, and it was new to Chouinard then, and I believe Rearick. I don't doubt that you later named the pinnacle. Nor would I doubt Yvon might have told you that happened in the Gunks. Perfectly believable. I would have no reason to question any of that...
Pat
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2008 - 12:43am PT
|
Coonyard Pinnacle. Slightly left and 400 feet above the top of Monday Morning Slab on Glacier Point Apron rises a 40-foot slab, Coonyard Pinnacle. On September 7, Joe McKeown, Rich Calderwood and I ascended this pinnacle from the top of Monday Morning Slab. The first pitch leads to a bush some 50 feet up on difficult friction. It is protected by bolts 15 and 40 feet up. The route continues up and right to a large ledge system, which is followed left until it gives out. A bolt is used for an 80-foot pendulum traverse which ends on a ledge directly below the pinnacle. A difficult friction pitch and then a flake system lead to the top of the pinnacle.
WILLIAM G. AMBORN. Sierra Club
Glacier Point Apron, Coonyard Pinnacle Route. From the top of Monday Morning Slab, the Glacier Point Apron rises up at only a 65º angle, but it is very smooth and crackless. After several attempts Layton Kor, Richard Calderwood, Bill Amborn, Jeff Foote and I managed to push the route to the “oasis,” a spring of good water coming out of the cliff at the top of the apron. The climbing is essentially free except for a huge pendulum. This climb rates with the hardest free climbs in the country in length, extreme difficulty and lack of protection.
YVON CHOUINARD, Yosemite Climbing Club
[url="http://www.americanalpineclub.org/AAJO/pdfs/1961/351_usa_aaj1961.pdf#search=%22Yosemite%22"]AAJ 1961 p370[/url]
|
|
Thorgon
Big Wall climber
Idaho Falls, ID
|
|
|
Nov 16, 2008 - 09:56pm PT
|
That is amazing, look forward to more captures, such as this!!!!!!!!
Thor
|
|
Redwood
Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 12:36am PT
|
Coonyard Pinnacle
Here's a subject I can converse about. Thank you, guido, for creating the thread, and providing all the information, or juicy details, as it sometime seems. That must have been a mighty adventurous undertaking.
I made several attempts on this route over a span of more than 20 years. The first of these (if anybody really cares) was in September, 1969. The route was a kind of big deal back then -- at least as far as the guidebook descriptions were concerned (all this talk of the going to the Oasis and then the Hinterland being "the most sustained fifth class climb in the country," and so on). Immediately previously I had obtained a pair of Kronhofers; I remember them well. They were great, especially in comparison to the kletterschuhe I had been climbing in up till then (nice pair, John Morton. I got rid of mine, sadly, a long time ago). My climbing partner and I went up the Harry Daley route late one day, and then, at the top of the slab, pondering what to do next, we hit on the outrageous idea of trying the first pitch of Coonyard Pinnacle. My partner gave it a go, and didn't like it. And then I went. And I climbed the pitch. It was amazing. It also turned out to be probably the best thing I did in climbing, I'm sorry to say.
Back then I had the idea of being really serious about the sport, hoping to work up to Half Dome, and who knows what else. But it didn't happen. I went to college instead and got involved with other things. Probably the main truth of the matter is that climbing was just too difficult.
[url=http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2261900400053544625TuZOaL]{{img}}h~~p://thumb5.webshots.net/t/73/73/9/0/40/2261900400053544625TuZOaL_th.jpg[/img][/url]
Jim Hoagland leading a variation of the Harry Daley route, below Coonyard Pinnacle, Sept. 1969.
[url=http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2724065590053544625pxrFBA]{{img}}h~~p://thumb5.webshots.net/t/73/73/0/65/59/2724065590053544625pxrFBA_th.jpg[/img][/url]
Me grinning at top of first pitch, luxuriating in my Kronhofers.
So on the wings of that success we came back the next day with the intention of climbing the whole route. I found then, and still feel, the route to be very mentally wearing. The routefinding is not at all straightforward (especially then, when all we had to go on was the Red guide). We couldn't find the proper crack on the second pitch, and then wandered way right and up, eventually getting back on track by traversing way left, and establishing a tenuous (dangerous) belay below the next 5.9 section. I climbed that, too, somehow, and then downclimbed to the ledge. We could not, however, climb the next pitch (either the fourth or the fifth pitch, depending on how you do it; at any rate the second to the last pitch). There was a party ahead of us, and we watched more or less helplessly some British climber lead it pretty easily, as it seemed, in Robbins boots (big blue things with a felted upper that looked like they might be more at home in the Alps).
At some point between 1970 and 1990 a bolt was added to this pitch, about 25 feet up. A very properly placed bolt, in my opinion. There is also, if you are sharp-eyed, a hole that used to have a bolt in it about 10 feet up, in which a baby angle can be placed and tied-off (don't tell anybody). At any rate, not feeling adventurous and courageous enough, we went down. Too bad. I found out much later that it "eases off" as they say about 20 feet up (even though it doesn't look like it).
Feeling somewhat fagged and fashed about the whole business, the route stewed in my mind for another year, and as it happened I hit on the idea of getting what I thought might be better shoes to give me an advantage. So I did. I bought a pair of very cool looking PAs at the Tuolumne Meadows store, late in the summer of 1970. At the same time I got a kind of oral history of the route -- years before its time -- from the shoe salesman they had there; no helpful ideas on making it easier or safer, though. Who was that informative shoe salesman? I thought you'd never ask. It was someone by the name of Joe McKeown.
So Jim and I went up there again, with approximately the same result. And there it stood. Ten, twenty years went by, and I just couldn't stomach the idea of dying without giving it another shot - especially since Jim had climbed it with Jeff Johnson a year or two later. And so after all those ages and ages I somehow managed to find a partner to try it, somebody whom I knew had climbed 5.11. I figured I was set. I have pictures of this attempt, here: http://outdoors.webshots.com/album/563235491jkJvMy
It really happened. But it was too bad again, since we couldn't climb it, despite the appearance of the renegade bolt on the second to last pitch. Maybe that made up for the disappearance of the first bolt on the first pitch. There had been a pretty big rockfall not long before, and it clobbered that bolt. I had to make do with threading a wired nut over the stub. It worked out Ok; it held a fall, too (don't tell anybody). But it did add an unanticipated particle of anxiety, and they add up. Although not every section on this route is "very difficult," it seems as though every time you turn around you're looking at another 5.9 pitch, and if the first pitch has tolerable protection, the others don't. For instance the traverse to the belay ledge at the top of the second pitch; maybe it's only 5.8, but it's run out and you get to clip-in to a rusted looks like a Lost Arrow driven up into a crack in a roof. That's way down there.
By 1990 I had a wide range of footgear selection not previously available. But I thought it wasn't quite fair to go up there in my EBs with sticky rubber, so I hauled out my old PAs from 1970 (even if they had sticky rubber, too -- don't tell anybody). I even got to put a lot of fancy gadgets on my gear sling (Friends, nuts, you name it (the attempt in 1969 involved only pitons: we actually placed one or two)). You don't actually use many of these things, but they're nice to have for show and the overall psychology of the experience.
[url=http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2663086290053544625TiIBpx]{{img}}h~~p://thumb5.webshots.net/t/69/669/0/86/29/2663086290053544625TiIBpx_th.jpg[/img][/url]
My PAs. I'm not getting rid of these. I want to be buried with them, actually. I can't seem to get a direct link to work, so these thumbnails will have to do.
It turned out I went up a few days later, in 1990, with someone else (someone whom I had seen climb 5.12) and finally climbed the route. I felt like Katsushiro in The Seven Samurai ("Today you're a full-fledged man.") I felt so manic that I wrote out a 30 or 40 page chronicle of my misadventures on the route, which shows me how much of an idiot I was even as late as 1990 (I'm much wiser and more mature now).
Thanks again, Joe, and thank you all for your patience.
|
|
WBraun
climber
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 12:55am PT
|
It's a mind blower that you guys could climb those slippery slabs in those Frankenstein boots.
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 04:15am PT
|
Not to rain on anyone's parade, but those Kronhoeffer's in the picture look like one of the mysterious clones that surfaced for a short time. I remember the original Kronhoeffer's, and of course used them for years, and they had a certain perfect cut to the rubber tread on the bottom. Then came along a version from who knows where, with the little lightning-shaped variation of that rubber tread, and the rubber was different, and they weren't as good. When I saw the photo above, I noticed that right away... The tops were also a slight bit higher than the original kind...
|
|
Patrick Oliver
Boulder climber
Fruita, Colorado
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 04:19am PT
|
Also, the original Kronhoeffers didn't have a heel, if I recall. Higgins you remember this, right...?
|
|
Roger Breedlove
climber
Cleveland Heights, Ohio
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 11:09am PT
|
Super recollections of sliding around on the Apron.
Hey Redwood, did you mean to say "and I just couldn't stomach the idea of giving it another shot without dying" or did I read it wrong?
The whole issue of shoes on the Apron is a thread in itself. I tired to climb on the Apron in Spyders (that didn't work so well) and tried it again as a guide in EBs and it worked just fine.
Best to everyone, Roger
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 12:51pm PT
|
I think I had a pair of Kronhoffers without a heel. Wish i still had them. Never let feel "practical" with your stuff in the vicinity of a thrift store...
|
|
paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 01:10pm PT
|
I don’t remember the heel on Kronhofers, but I do remember the change in rubber. I remember it as being pretty sticky and then less so. I think the same thing happened to those blue suede Robbins boots. The earlier version had a pretty sticky formulation and the soles actually broke off in very tiny chunks. Later the soles seemed like regular Vibram hiking soles. The good rubber had a very intense smell to it as well. I remember walking around in my mother’s kitchen after getting a new pair of Kronhofers and leaving black marks all over the place because the rubber was so soft and came off so easily. As well, we used to buy them several sizes too small and the upper leather would sort of form to your foot so you could really feel the rock. They hurt like hell.
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 02:04pm PT
|
Some Kronhofer memories.
West Ridge Mountaineering in West Los Angeles was the sole distributor for Kronhofer klettershoes from about 1970 until old man Kronhofer announced he was quitting. The earlier models did not have the heeled sole. I can't remember when the heel with the new sole pattern became standard, but since that's the only climbing shoe I ever wore until EBs & PAs came into vogue, I can vouch for the fact that the composition of the sole was never altered.
Those of us that considered ourselves expert on the subject, preferred the "new" heeled sole for its pattern because the lugs were more closely spaced than the original heel-less sole. Also the heel stayed in etrier loops more securely.
Any difference in "stickiness" was never noticed by anyone I ever sold a pair to(actual stickiness was never a characteristic of the Kronhofer sole).
Also, we always bought them at least a couple sizes smaller than our normal shoe size and when brand new we would put them on and dip our feet, shoe and all, into a bucket of water to soak them. Then we wore them around all day until they dried out - perfectly formed to our feet. Next, we would remove the brass staples in the toe of the sole (they were a problem when the sole wore down and the metal made contact with the rock. We also used to epoxy the toe and outer side around the small toe area to prevent premature wear and eventual holes appearing in the leather.
Great shoes (until Fires came along). Only bad feature was the absorbency of the suede leather. On the 8th ascent of the Nose, Boche and I climbed for 7 days in the rain. The water pouring down the face would run down our outstretched arms, through our clothes, and into our shoes, but when we stepped up in our etriers, the water would be squeezed out, if only partially and temporarily.
|
|
paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 02:57pm PT
|
You may well be right with regard to the “stickyness” of the soles; perhaps I’ve confused them with the Robbins soles. At any rate, I bought every pair I ever owned from Westridge. Loved that store. They were really remarkable shoes on any rock that had a bit of grit like Stonypoint or out at Joshua Tree. Even after EBs came out, I still used my old Kronhofers out at Stonypoint.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 09:28pm PT
|
I've seen Kronhoffers with two soles. Most had the Kletter Super
as seen on John Morton's. Some had the Marwa Klettersohle,
which had fewer, broader lugs and came flat. On Kronies and on
the Voyager Directissima (the closest knockoff ever) there was
a wedge of black foam rubber to build up the heel area
slightly.
The pair of Kronhoffers I bought from Higgins had the Marwa.
Morton's are the real deal, I'm sure.
I dissected a good number of Kronies and Directissimas both.
|
|
Jaybro
Social climber
wuz real!
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 09:30pm PT
|
So you ever crusie Ebay for Kronnies, in our size, Scuff?
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 10:06pm PT
|
You would have more luck cruisin' for Cronys on the ST! Never even seen 'hofers on Ebay myself.
|
|
scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
|
|
|
Nov 17, 2008 - 10:21pm PT
|
What Steve said, Jaybro.
I did, though, see a pair that I had resoled with Shoenard
sole in 1974, for sale in a consignment shop in the late 90s.
|
|
Redwood
Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2008 - 12:44am PT
|
Roger Breedlove wrote:
"Hey Redwood, did you mean to say "...and I just couldn't stomach the idea of giving it another shot without dying" or did I read it wrong?"
No. I meant what I wrote. I was trying to get the idea across that I wouldn't have felt good about dying without having climbed the route, or at least giving it one more serious attempt. Maybe it didn't come out right. Mold induced dementia (or EMF induced dementia, too); or maybe both of them together, as well.
I had a very high degree of liking for my Kronhoffers, which I got at West Ridge. They were a real rock shoe, as opposed to the kletterschuhe I had previously. And they felt good. I thought I could climb "anything" in them (anything=5.9). The PAs were more versatile, but I didn't think they edged as well, and they hurt after a while. Somewhere or other I ran across an article written by Chouinard where he claimed he could put some surgical rubber on a shoe and walk up the Apron. Not that I believed him, but I wondered about this surgical rubber from time to time during the 20 years between attempts.
|
|
Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2008 - 12:52am PT
|
When I started in the early 1790s or 1970s or whatever, I had a pair of shoes from REI. They were a little darker grey than the shoes pictured up-thread, quite stiff, and if I remember rightly had a shallow Vibram sole, and rubber toe and heel caps. I can't remember the brand, but they were European, sort of an imitation of the RRs.
|
|
Don Lauria
Trad climber
Bishop, CA
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2008 - 02:29pm PT
|
Scuffy b is 100% on about the two different soles on genuine Kronhofers and he's right about the picture being a genuine pair, also.
|
|
the Fet
Knackered climber
A bivy sack in the secret campground
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2008 - 03:10pm PT
|
What a fantastic story.
The pictures are great, no need for any touch up, you really get the feel of the climb.
We're so lucky that these photos and stories from almost 50 years ago can now be shared across the world for free.
The shared booty camera is absolutely classic.
|
|
BBA
Social climber
petaluma ca
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2008 - 03:36pm PT
|
Here's a shoe related item. Joe sent me the letters I wrote to him and some CDs, but he also accidentally included letters from other people. Some are quite amusing. One of Joe's friends who worked at the Curry Company sent Joe a letter asking him to get a pair of size 42 Klettershuh as "Kay threw away one of mine". That girl was on her way to being the mom of some poor boy who wanted to climb. Then Karl went on to say, I only have $8 so I'll pay you later.
|
|
Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2008 - 03:57pm PT
|
Voyager Directissima (the Kronie knockoff) with Marwa "Innsbrucker" Klettersohle.
Purchased virtually brand new a couple of years ago on eBay.
(having started out in red PA’s, I never did anything really serious in this type of shoe)
|
|
scuffy b
climber
On the dock in the dark
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2008 - 07:10pm PT
|
Also note that Tarbuster's shoes are the 2nd version of the
Directissima, with the extra layer of leather on the toe.
The Directissima was cut more narrow in the arch, which I liked,
but I think Kronhoffers had better leather in the midsole.
|
|
paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
|
|
|
Nov 18, 2008 - 07:18pm PT
|
Yeah, if I had those shoes and my old leather bottom red rucksack, I'd feel like I was 20 again. Seeing these images is like listening to old favorite songs or looking at my old high school year book. Pathetically nostalgic but great fun.
|
|
paul roehl
Boulder climber
california
|
|
|
Nov 22, 2008 - 09:29pm PT
|
Many years ago (70s) on the way up Coonyard (yet again) we were at the top of MM slab. I had just finished belaying my partner up the HD crack and was still tied into a small Manzanita or Pine that grew at its end. I was pulling the rope up on the ledge when I heard, half-consciously, a strangely disturbing crack in the distance. At the same moment I heard my partner mumble something like "Oh sheet." When I turned to see what had happened all I saw was his body flattened like a pancake up against the wall hands over head in an otherwise fetal position. I looked straight up and saw a block of granite, which at the time appeared to be the size of a freight train, sucking air and coming straight at us. I can still see it separated from the low angle of the wall and turning slightly as it made its way in a kind of bizarre slow motion toward us. Panicked, I jumped up to move in close to the wall and was pulled rudely back to the bush I was tied into. I still remember a moment of perfect clarity as small rocks began hitting the ground around us and, over a period that seemed like minutes, I unclipped the belay and was finally able to move. Fearing the worst, I jumped, leapt, flew over the west side of the slab where I knew the climbing was very easy and where I could squeeze into the open book for protection. Problem was it was pretty steep and I picked up speed pretty fast. At exactly the moment when it was becoming an uncontrollable fall, I reached out, grabbed an inch wide ledge and caught myself. Felt like Batman but I broke a finger. I stuck my head in the crack and waited for the world to go dark. I honestly thought the debris would bury me. Of course it didn't and in a few moments I called up to my friend. No answer. I scrambled back up to the top of the slab. He was fine and checking the rope. But the bush I had been tied into was gone. My pack, also clipped into the bush, was gone as well. If I'd stayed tied into that bush, I'm sure I'd be gone too. We didn't even bother to rap off just scrambled down the west side and got the hell out of there. I loved climbing on the apron, but there was always occasional rock fall.
|
|
Redwood
Gym climber
West Sacramento CA
|
|
|
Nov 25, 2008 - 11:31pm PT
|
Paul,
Interesting story. Glad you survived. What a predicament.
When I attempted the route in 1990, I couldn't help noticing how the whole Monday Morning Slab area had been clobbered by a rockfall (or perhaps more than one): much fresh-looking debris all over the place, and most of the bushes and trees that used to grow out of cracks here and there had been swept away, or severely reduced in verdure (pics linked to show this pretty well), plus there was a lot of sandy residue on the ledges -- in addition to the first bolt having been stripped off. About 2004 I inquired at the Guide service if they guided anything on the Apron and they just kind of looked at me askance and mumbled and hemmed and hawed (I'm a scuzzy looking character, after all).
I miss it, though. Might not ever see it again.
[url=http://outdoors.webshots.com/photo/2581255000053544625XfzgSs]{{img}}h~~p://thumb5.webshots.net/t/62/62/2/55/0/2581255000053544625XfzgSs_th.jpg[/img][/url]
Apron: Feb. 1975.
|
|
nutjob
Trad climber
Berkeley, CA
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2009 - 02:27pm PT
|
Wow, this thread is woven from multiple strands of gold.
I don't know if I'm more in awe of the first ascent stories or diving over the west side of Monday Morning Slab to hide from rockfall, and breaking a finger to stop the deathslide! Just a week ago I solo'd up the west side, and didn't feel comfortable going back down it. Maybe I'd feel differently with rockfall bearing down.
|
|
JEleazarian
Trad climber
Fresno CA
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2009 - 03:32pm PT
|
Super cool thread! I started climbing in Zillertals, but was afraid to buy them small enough. I soon needed three pairs of socks to make them work at all. PA's, while having less friction, had such wonderful edging that I quickly switched.
John
|
|
old toad
Trad climber
yosemite, Ca.
|
|
|
Oct 23, 2009 - 10:35pm PT
|
This thread is the reason I keep reading SuperTopo, keep up the good work!!
Ron
|
|
Jan
Mountain climber
Okinawa, Japan
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2009 - 12:22pm PT
|
My thanks too for the history and nostalgia.
Monday Morning slab was my first climb in Yosemite in 1965 and the first pitch of Coonyard was the first 5.9 I ever did. Climbed them in Kronhofer's purchased at Holubar's in Boulder. Apron climbing, cracks and chimneys were thought to be uniquely Yosemite in those days and must do's.
The tales of the first ascents were still fresh in people's minds in 1965 but I never got to meet Joe or Bill.
Sad to see all the bushes and trees gone or looking dead on the Apron and to hear about the rockfall.
|
|
TrundleBum
Trad climber
Las Vegas
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2009 - 02:05pm PT
|
Paul roehl's story set my memory in motion...
Back in the late 1700's...
I mean 70's rather...
I went up Harry Daley with John Rutt.
We were just putz'n around and thinking Coonyard if no one was on it, Far East if so. We had reached the top of Monday Morning slab and had John Had just started up Coonyard when a climber came over the top of the west side of MMS. He said he needed help and that his partner had been hit by rock fall.
The climber asking for assistance seemed rather calm for it to be a critical situation but we went to help.
When we got to the injured climber he was sitting on a ledge a little ways down the west side of the slab. It was decided that the best thing was to help the guy down climb the west side of the slab, as opposed to climbing back to the top of MMS and then rap'n.
While JR and the injured climber's partner fixed a rope for hand rail/added security I stayed with the victim. I tried to keep'm calm as he held a bloody T-shirt over his face. I thought getting a look at the injury might alter the urgency of the situation, for better or worse, even though I had narry a clue (@ that time) about being a 'First Responder'.
The dude dropped the T-shirt slowly off his forehead/face...
Low and behold this poor guy had taken a baseball size rock right across the brow and had a horizontal laceration (basically to the bone) about 4"-6" long. It wasn't a pretty picture.
We got'm down to the parking lot as fast as we could.
We heard later that after numerous stitches he was doing just fine.
|
|
Peter Haan
Trad climber
San Francisco, CA
|
|
|
Oct 24, 2009 - 04:56pm PT
|
Here is Bill and Rich after a manicure:
and Rich at the summit:
|
|
Marc Sisko
Trad climber
SE Warsh
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2009 - 11:25am PT
|
Hi do any of y'all know if the anchors from Coonyard to the Oasis are good or are they all hammered?
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Hagerman, ID
|
|
|
Oct 26, 2009 - 07:11pm PT
|
Joe: Great story. I was in Nepal when it posted last year, so it was great to catch it 2nd time around.
I shared it with some of the staff at the "Old Climbers Home" and the nurses are quite excited about meeting you.
When you come to stay, they will be sure to attend your slide shows.
I think I can guarantee that anyone posting a 60's or 70's epic report with photos on ST will be welcome (at a time of their choosing) at the Old Climbers Home.
|
|
guido
Trad climber
Santa Cruz/New Zealand/South Pacific
|
|
|
Topic Author's Reply - Oct 26, 2009 - 07:43pm PT
|
Hell Fritz-that ought to get the old boys scamming.
Oh, sorry Beulah, I met scanning!
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Sep 19, 2010 - 06:06pm PT
|
Overdressed Bump!
|
|
Kat Calderwood
Boulder climber
|
|
Thank you for this story! For an update the oldies did an anniversary climb in September and loved it. Though they didn't make it all the way up the pitch, there is much to be said that they could still attempt the climb. My dad trained all summer to get back into climbing shape. Thank you for these wonderful photos.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Dec 26, 2010 - 09:15pm PT
|
Thanks for the report and for weighing in, Kat!
|
|
HighTraverse
Social climber
Bay Area
|
|
|
Dec 27, 2010 - 02:12pm PT
|
I did Coonyard BITD and loved it. I think it's one of the under-appreciated classics. Still want to go back and finish to the Oasis. I suppose the runout intimidates a lot of "modern" climbers. I'm sure it will me when I get back up there.
Kat: good on your Dad!
|
|
Fritz
Trad climber
Choss Creek, ID
|
|
|
May 14, 2011 - 08:21pm PT
|
Coonyard bump
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
May 15, 2011 - 09:43pm PT
|
Friction Bump...
|
|
frog-e
Trad climber
Imperial Beach California
|
|
|
May 15, 2011 - 10:29pm PT
|
BITD (77?) did Coonyard with Kimbrough, he led the 3rd if not mistaken.
Have yet to go to the Oasis - always wanted to. Some are wigged out
about the rock fall potential; seems like it was always kinda weird that
way on the left (Grack) side of the apron and pretty stable over by
MM slab etc? Think autumn is best (for me). :-)
Great thread. Thanks to the FA team for a really cool climb!
|
|
Ed Hartouni
Trad climber
Livermore, CA
|
|
|
May 17, 2011 - 01:04am PT
|
bump
|
|
HighTraverse
Trad climber
Bay Area
|
|
I haven't heard of any rockfall issues in the area from Coonyard to the Oasis. Anyone got better info?
|
|
bvb
Social climber
flagstaff arizona
|
|
|
Aug 29, 2011 - 07:39pm PT
|
Watusi setting off on the first pitch of Coonyard, with Off White snapping the camera and me belaying. It was our first time up the route. July, 1976.
|
|
Steve Grossman
Trad climber
Seattle, WA
|
|
|
Apr 28, 2017 - 07:15pm PT
|
Timely Bump...
|
|
| Messages 1 - 93 of total 93 in this topic |
|
SuperTopo on the Web
|
Let us know!