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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Original Post - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:16pm PT
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A long way from here, and most other places, as the foot flies...
Fair Glacier sits along the back (NW) side of Apache Peak, 13,441 feet, in Colorado's Indian Peaks Wilderness.
Apache from the East:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:17pm PT
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From Gerry Roach's
Colorado's Indian Peaks Wilderness,
Classic Hikes & Climbs:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:20pm PT
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Up Pawnee Pass (no biggie).... then down, down, into Lone Eagle Cirque,
Then cross-country up, up, to Triangle Lake, traipsing onward below Lone Eagle’s Ridge to the upper cirque of Fair Glacier:
The general area (Indian Peaks Wilderness):
The general idea (a long day out):
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:20pm PT
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All you have to do is follow this nice path (for starters)...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:22pm PT
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All is right with the world T*R.
And my knees and legs and ankles, toes and Achilles tendons and hands and arms and fingers are tired today!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:25pm PT
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... thanks for reading along.
Let's have a look see...
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Oh goody, a tarbuster TR to brighten up a grey afternoon. Maybe he even saw some ladybugs..
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:27pm PT
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Navajo Peak, on the left, Apache in the center, Shoshone on the right:
The trail winds past Shoshone up to Pawnee Pass, Apache's E face & N ridge on the left:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:30pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:32pm PT
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No ladybugs, nobody, ...x'cept me and those animal tracks.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:39pm PT
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I don't know why I do it Werner.
But I do it!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:49pm PT
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Looking west off Pawnee Pass, over toward Lone Eagle Cirque with Mt Achonee on the horizon:
Cascade Creek drainage down low on the right, feeds Grand Lake to the west:
The northern margin of Cascade drainage:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 03:58pm PT
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Well below the pass, the frozen surface of Pawnee Lake:
A chilly descent with a good deal of vertical drop,
Looking at the back (W) side of Mount Toll, left, Pawnee Peak's buttress, center, and on the right, the broad shouldered Shoshone massif:
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thanks, Roy! Where is Apache Peak in relation to some location that non-Coloradans might have heard of, e.g. Boulder?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 04:21pm PT
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Yes, due West of Boulder... And Up!!!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 08:24pm PT
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At 12 noon I reached the low point of my descent and the first views out into Lone Eagles Cirque,
Point 11,602' is the prominent tower with Cherokee Peak behind, Hopi & Hopi Glacier on the left:
Lone Eagle Peak, dead center, Apache and Fair Glacier on the left:
My route, up beyond Triangle Lake:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 08:25pm PT
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Lone Eagle Cirque:
From Gerry Roach's guide:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 08:29pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 08:30pm PT
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Lone Eagle Peak,
The face was first climbed by the Stettner Brothers of Long's Peak fame:
Apache and Fair Glacier:
Shoshone's West wall, climbed by Jeff Lowe and brother:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 08:41pm PT
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There is a beautiful, flat and expansive meadow between Lone Eagle and Shoshone:
A lush and inviting environment:
Enclosed by rugged walls and towers:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 08:42pm PT
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 08:44pm PT
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Looking west from beneath Lone Eagle:
Lone Eagle towers above:
Moving to the meadow's end, scoping more closely Shoshone to the east:
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Incredible journey. How great you have days like that, and share them with the rest of us!
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Nohea
Trad climber
Aiea,Hi
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That is beautiful! Thank You for dragging the camera along. I have been eyeballing this valley near where I work now, and this report gave me a virtual kick it the butt to get in there.
Aloha,
wil
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 09:38pm PT
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This is a special place and epitomizes the feeling of spacious enclosure;
It shared a captivaing feeling of solitude made all the more poignant by autumn light.
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Double D
climber
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Nice Roy...
The ice on Shoshone's West wall looks way cool. Does it just go into a huge slot canyon?
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SteveW
Trad climber
The state of confusion
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As usual, Roy, wonderful trip report and awesome photos.
I just wish I were along for real on a few of them.
Thanks for the vicarious living!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 11:33pm PT
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Thanks folks, you are welcome & I'm 'glad you enjoy.
DD,
Yes, that ice seeps from a giant slot, capped by an overhanging alcove...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 1, 2008 - 11:58pm PT
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From CLIMB!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 09:48am PT
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At the head of the large meadow is a steep jumble of large boulders; this is Fair Glacier's terminal moraine. These were covered in a light snow so I carefully picked my way through and over them, shortly to arrive at the glacial tarn known as Triangle Lake:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 09:53am PT
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Struggling over the stretch of moraine leading upward,
The peaks known as Limbo and Iroquois rose to the west, defining the narrow valley cut by the Fair Glacier:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 09:56am PT
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Straight ahead was my way out;
Up and over Fair Glacier, followed by a scramble along Apache's West Ridge:
At three o'clock in the afternoon I strapped on my crampons:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 10:01am PT
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A neighboring gully, an alternate escape hatch, leading up through the cliffs of Mount George,
(this would have been the way out had Fair Glacier's crevasse been opened wide):
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Prod
Big Wall climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Then what?
What time did you start?
What time did you finish?
How many miles?
What gear did you bring?
What were the temps?
Did you wear your schlong warmer?
Prod.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 10:10am PT
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Firm white alpine ice gave way to arduous snow-covered slopes.
The storied crevasse was a nonevent due to the snow; at any rate I skirted it to the left.
At 4:15 p.m. I stood on the upper lip of the glacier, which essentially formed a small pass on the shoulder of Apache's West Ridge.
Looking down valley past Triangle Lake toward Cascade Creek:
Iroquois and Limbo along the left side of the frame:
Gendarmes guarding the way west to Mount George:
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 10:14am PT
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Yes I wore my schlong warmer.
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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Cool stuff Roy! Fun to wake up to this, a good morning show for sure. Looking forward to more.
Tom
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 10:18am PT
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Surveying the "fairyland" (as Roach calls it) of Wheeler Basin, and the northwest face of North Arapaho Peak 13,502':
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 10:34am PT
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The going along Apache's West Ridge was moderate third class.
I did manage to pull off my gloves for a finger lock and hand jam. I was starting to bonk as the incline broke and doggedly reached the summit just before 5:30 pm. I had less than an hour of light remaining and needed to quickly thread my way down the rubble of Apache's east face, latch and strap back into my points, drop through a neve/snow gully called Queen's Way and stomp down on to Isabelle Glacier.
At 6 p.m. the crampons came back off; under diminishing twilight I quickly searched my way down the climber's trail leading off of Isabelle Glacier beneath Shoshone's rock towers.
By the light of a bright headlamp and three hours after summiting Apache, I reached the car, having ascended 5000 vertical feet, descended 5500 vertical while covering some handful of miles, not sure really, maybe 15+, in 14 hours total. I saw no people; there were animal tracks in the snow leading off of Pawnee Pass, and more tracks leading up from Crater Lake to Triangle Lake and all the way up on to Fair Glacier. A nice day in the rough.
Picture of the descent taken early morning on the way up:
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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SWEET. Nice TR and wrap up....looks like a cool trek, and alot of miles to cover. Right on!
Getting me psyched for today's adventure in the batholith...temps are going to be a bit crisper. Should be fun...
Thanks for taking the time to post this.
Cheers!
Tom
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Prod
Big Wall climber
A place w/o Avitars apparently
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Nice job Tar.
Thanks,
Prod.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 11:02am PT
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Pull down on some tasty crimps today Tom!
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TKingsbury
Trad climber
MT
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I certainly will do my best! Heading out the door.....
Now!
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 11:22am PT
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Maybe Jello will tell us something about Shoshone's west wall...
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 11:41am PT
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Rick A
climber
Boulder, Colorado
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Well done, Roy! I am in awe.
For those of you who aren't familiar with the territory, this is a notable endurance feat, normally accomplished only by the super fit, and in the balmy, long days of summer. To do it at this time of year, solo, is remarkable,and illustrates that Roy is not only a master of stone, but also of the high alpine!
Rick
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Mighty Hiker
Social climber
Vancouver, B.C.
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Thanks, Roy - looks like a good bit of fjellrangling! Did you do the trip recently?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 2, 2008 - 01:20pm PT
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Friday, October 31 2008.
Trick & Treat!!!
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Wayno
Big Wall climber
Seattle, WA
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Wow, nice ramblings Roy. I missed this earlier. Truly a magic time to be in the mountains.
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Pewf
climber
nederland
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Bump for a great TR.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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I just went back and read the whole cruise start to finish, to get the full flavor.
What a staggering amount of walking, climbing, scrambling and keepin'-it-together you did.
And taking great pictures the whole way, making a story with no gaps while daylight lasted.
cheers,
L
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paganmonkeyboy
climber
mars...it's near nevada...
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sweet blind baby jesus, tar - you bring tears to me homesick eyes sometimes with these, and this would be one o' dem times...
word...
-t
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Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
Littleton
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Really nice Roy! That is my favorite area in the Indian Peaks. I've been up Lone Eagle 2x but never the Fair Glacier. I'd like to do the Glacier to Iriquois. I've been back in the cirque 4x and 3 of those 4x I've seen moose. Great job. Happy to see this TR!
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Beatrix Kiddo
Mountain climber
Littleton
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Wait. . is Jello Jeff Lowe? I hope he does post something about the Lowe Route! Stich and I set out to find it one day and had zero luck.
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John Moosie
climber
Beautiful California
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Thanks Tar for the great report. I love long days in the mountains. What a stellar trip.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 06:16pm PT
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Y'all are quite welcome!
Since this thread is retaining a little interest,
There's a little postscript to Chiloe's statement:
"And taking great pictures the whole way, making a story with no gaps while daylight lasted."
It is the "while daylight lasted" bit that gets me...
Because, as I was unstrapping my crampons on the Isabelle glacier, I looked to the south and in my rush, failing to take a photograph but my no means losing notice, I saw this gorgeous glow over Navajo Peak.
You know, that sort of sky depicted in a Roger Dean painting, a silhouette landscape revealed only by a thin halo of airbrushed aqua sky, then above that a thick mantle of red, then blackness.
I had other things on my mind preempting investment in photographs; like getting back to my wife.
You see, on another one of these "Supertramps", last year into the southern margin of Rocky Mountain National Park, I was out for 15 hours, putting my ragged butt home by 10 p.m.
Lisa had then been expecting me by seven or eight, had been worried understandably, and began to make the calls...
So this time for Apache, I left the following map with notes giving her a clue as to expected times with a three-hour buffer. As I collapsed last Friday on the summit of Apache, I reached into my pack and was able to get a cell phone call out just before the battery died, wherein I let Lisa know that I was on top at 5:20. The revised numbers with circles are hers:
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Stitch_Buster
Social climber
Nederland, CO
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Yeah, that's cool Tar. I made two cell calls from Lone Eagle as well to my honey. She appreciated it for sure.
Oh, but you knew that since we share two brains. Duh-oh.
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Lisa had then been expecting me by seven or eight, had been worried understandably,
and began to make the calls...
Back before cell phones, back when I still did 18-hour mountain days, three friends and
I topped out on some hard-to-reach part of the Divide around sunset, and got back
to Boulder past midnight. Leslie was already calling other friends, asking how
worried should she be. A cell call from me woulda been nice.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 07:09pm PT
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Heck, cell phones often don't even work IN Boulder, much less from the summit of some faraway peak; but sometimes the straight shot to a tower is of benefit so this time I told her I would try for a call when I topped out.
Next time I'm calling ahead for a trailhead gurney and pizza too!!!
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Great, great trip Tar!
When ever I open a thread and see your distinctive map I know I'm in good hands.
Just beautiful pictures. As I read I got colder and colder. Had to put on a few layers. Might need to bivy here in the office.
Thanks,
Zander
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 3, 2008 - 10:34pm PT
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No doubt Zander...
I was thinking a space blanket, a lighter, maybe some extra toilet paper could come in handy out there.
Of course we all know this!
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Inner City
Trad climber
East Bay
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Great report! Thanks Roy!
Your posts are what it's all about...
D Reid
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Bldrjac
Ice climber
Boulder
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Very nice trip report, Roy. Good job. That's rough terrain and a heck of a job going up and down it. I'll have to pick your brain about what you thought the rock was like back there. It looks pretty good.
Jack
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 4, 2008 - 01:10pm PT
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Jack,
I sent an e-mail to Jeff Lowe asking for more specifics about Shoshone's wall. In one of my earlier threads about a two-day solo ridge traverse along the Continental Divide from Wild Basin over to Isabelle Glacier he posted up a great picture of that wall on Shoshone's West Face. Hopefully the ones I took will allow for more detail in terms of route description; of course I think I see the line!
The rock there on Shoshone looks pretty good; but I did not touch it...
Here’s an assessment which I’m sure many of you can relate to:
An interesting thing about these trips, from a climber's perspective, is that it is like an expanded (in terms of time), or contracted (in terms of technical difficulty), version of a free solo on technical rock.
While what's primarily involved in terms of movement skills may only be defined as second and third, maybe fourth, or easy fifth class challenges, with lots of hiking over loose terrain, the time commitment and the remoteness necessitate absolute concentration, serious attention to detail and persistent movement. Distance equals time, and time equals isolation. Out of necessity, there is no resting beyond a minute or two and the flow must persist, like a steady drip, drip, drip.
Attention to detail: like the carpenters say, “measure twice and cut only once”. Each footfall, even on marginally snow-covered or rocky trail, each swing of the leg and drop of the ankle has to be assessed and executed with a high order of fastidious care. Because, aside from a thin pile vest for my core, a handful of heat packs, and critical wind protection, the available clothing is sufficient only for a MOVING climber. One slip of the ankle, or a dead headlamp, and things get serious in a hurry. You’re a long way from home on these things and when movement stops internal body heat drains quickly…
The free soloist on clean rock slips and the end is typically quick. The soloist in the wilderness slips…....then time contracts, distance compounds, a completely new order of isolation takes brutal command.
Cheers & Happy Trails,
Roy
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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To give this fine thread one more run down the page ... not sure what peak this is,
but it's near Lone Eagle. Memory's fuzzy because it was taken 38 years ago.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2008 - 05:45pm PT
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The prominence on the left upper edge of your photo is Iroquois.
The glacier extending to the ridge on the right is the Peck Glacier.
You were standing to the southwest of Lone Eagle, somewhere above crater lake, looking south east, toward the divide.
Photo from Gerry Roach's book on the Indian Peaks
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Nov 6, 2008 - 06:09pm PT
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And just what pray tell, Larry,
Were you and your camera doing back there?
Lone Eagle Peak?
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goatboy smellz
climber
colorado
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Chasing after the elusive Colorado snow rabbit no doubt,
got a vicious streak a mile wide...It's a killer!
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Chiloe
Trad climber
Lee, NH
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Well, I would have climbed Lone Eagle but those snow rabbits chased me off ...
actually, I think I was just hiking around with a camera that day. Here's a view
of Lone Eagle itself.
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klk
Trad climber
cali
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Glad this got bumped, because I missed it earlier. Ton of work went into this TR--- very nice, especially the cheesy seventies retro chic map/illustration/placemat to open.
Although the shot of you crouching, Indian scout in Cowboy hat, is not quite cheesy enough.
Gorgeous country. Every time I visit the weather sucks. I've given up.
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Here's the route (approximate) that my cousin George and I did on that face, Tarbuster. I think it was 1982? About III, 5.10, 7 or 8 pitches? I think George went back later with Dougald McDonald and did another route on the buttress to the right, in the sunshine in the photo.
I think Kor had tried our route previously, backing off of a rurp on the 3rd pitch. When I got to that point, although the cracks petered out for the rest of the pitch, and the face climbing was probably 5.10 for a ways, I kept going and it eased up after awhile, giving access to good cracks in the upper wall.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 06:10pm PT
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Sweet .... very nice, awesome!
Here's a close-up of the apron at the base of your route,
And I believe you would've gone up this thin left facing feature just below the red dot,
Given your description above perhaps the face climbing is actually in the red dot:
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Jello
Social climber
No Ut
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Found this closer shot of the face, Tarbaby. Maybe it shows the route better?
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 06:15pm PT
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Yes that is better!
We don't need no stinking topo!
Rack and Roll..............
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 06:16pm PT
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The Kor reference is fun stuff.
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Zander
Trad climber
Berkeley
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Oooo, that route looks nice!
Thanks for posting guys.
Zander
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Ezra
Social climber
WA, NC, Idaho Falls
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stunning photography!
Thank you!
-e
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - Jan 1, 2009 - 08:56pm PT
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Thanks!
I like pikchures.
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Jake Wander
climber
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Tarbuster, I am heading to this area and have some questions for you. I sent you a private message if you are interested in helping me out. Much appreciated!
Jake
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Bump for the Indian Peaks
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 8, 2018 - 08:03pm PT
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I miss being able to do this kind of stuff. I miss a lot of things ...
But, hey, I can still organize a killer picnic!
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i-b-goB
Social climber
Wise Acres
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Killer TR!
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mike m
Trad climber
black hills
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Heading in there tomorrow to ski possibly up by South Arapaho. thinking bike approach.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2018 - 10:23am PT
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Here's what James Peak looked like Sunday:
I don't know what Fourth of July Road looks like right now, but as melted out as everything has been at the trailheads, I'm thinking a bike is a good bet!
You going for Skywalker couloir?
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Don Paul
Gym climber
Denver CO
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4th of July road is almost certainly closed, I was there about two weeks ago. Thanks for beta tarbuster this is one of my favorite places but I haven't been to most of those peaks. For a great day trip I recommend the Mt Neva ridge traverse.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 9, 2018 - 11:25am PT
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Yes you are correct, the road will be closed, that's why he wants his bike!
Here's a little photo exposé on Mount Neva & other points of interest:
http://www.supertopo.com/climbers-forum/196724/Scrambles-Amongst-The-Rockies
I have a long-standing desire to leave a car at the trailhead of Arapahoe Pass, then drive over to Brainard Lake (in a second car) and do the whole ridge from Apache/Navajo, over North and South Arapaho, out the trail and back down Fourth of July in the spare car!
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Don Paul
Gym climber
Denver CO
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Great, let me know when you're out here, I have the other car. Here's a gopro video of that (4th class) traverse, but in the winter when it's iced up.
[Click to View YouTube Video]
Here's a Facebook album of pictures of the ridge and the fabulous alpine meadows below. You can camp there most of the year without a permit, anywhere you want.
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L
climber
A place with cats...lots and lots of cats
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Sometimes it's nice to go to the icy mountains from the comfort of your couch, a warm fire burning in the fireplace and a glass of wine in your hand.
Thanks for making that possible, Roy.
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Tarbuster
climber
right here, right now
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Topic Author's Reply - May 10, 2018 - 10:25am PT
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Mount Neva ridgeline:
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