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schwortz
Social climber
davis, ca
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Oct 26, 2008 - 02:07pm PT
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it depends on what you're looking for
if you're only looking for classic routes and well umm classic descriptions then griffins books - these books have classically understated route descriptions - the topos/photos are OK but you wont get much in the way of detailed info
if you want more modern routes and classic, with more modern info then go with the snow, ice mixed books - seem to be much more preferred by everyone in chamonix except for well brits who come in from home with the griffin books - then they seem to buy these as well....they're pricey and i dont actually own any of them...but i was gifted an old version of one of the griffin books and well...i tend to collect a bunch of other beta if thats the only resource i have on something
if you're looking for rock then neither of those will do
for that look for piolas books - unfortunately only one of the new books (rouges and envers) is available in english - my memory is sh#t this morning but i think its the envers book thats available in english. the rouges book is new this/last year and the english version isnt out yet - unfortunately the old books are out of print - beg, borrow, steal and photocopy - these are the books you really want for rock climbing in the aiguilles, vallee blanche, or anywhere in the mt blanc massif or drus
no matter what you do remember you can always go to the OHM and read through any of the guidebooks, photocopy the out of print stuff, and read through the conditions reports...also a good place to hang out and meet partners, bullshit with guides, check the weather, get your reservations for refuges, etc etc
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schwortz
Social climber
davis, ca
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Oct 26, 2008 - 02:28pm PT
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i guess i should add that guidebooks to chamonix mt blanc are many and if you really wanted a full library it would cost you an arm and a leg.
you'd need/want:
damilano neige, glace et mixte vol 1
damilano neige, glace et mixte vol 2
piola envers des aiguilles
piola aiguilles rouges
the valley cragging book
rebuffat's 100 classics book
piola mt blanc vol 1 - out of print?
piola mt blanc vol 2 - out of print?
figure you're looking at minimum 30 euro a book
so thats about $350 worth of guidebooks
needless to say i'm working off of books that were handed to down to me, hand-drawn copies of topos, and photocopies from the OHM
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Dolomite
climber
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Oct 26, 2008 - 03:28pm PT
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There's a relatively new book (2007) by Laroche and Lelong called "The Mont Blanc Range" (followed by a long subtitle). It takes into account recent glacial conditions due to global warming.
You can't go wrong with Rebbufat for inspiration.
As was stated earlier: it depends on what you're looking for.
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| Messages 1 - 4 of total 4 in this topic |
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